Cfje  ILibvavv 

Of  tl)C 

BUnibcrsittp  of  J^ortfj  Carolina 


The 

Oscar  William  Blacknall  Collection 

Presented  by 

Shield?  Mallette  Blacknall 

1928 

K29 


UNIVERSITY  OF  N.C.  AT  CHAPEL  HILL 


10002464806 


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date  CENTS   a  day  thereafter.     It  was  taken  out 

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I    ORLEANS,    1861,     THE    DAY    BEFORE   THE    "   SUMTER  M    SAILED 

JOHN    MclNTOSH    KELL 


RECOLLECTIONS 


OF  A 


NAVAL  LIFE 


INCLUDING  THE 

CRUISES  OF  THE  CONFEDERATE  STATES  STEAMERS 
"SUMTER"  AND  "ALABAMA" 


BY 

JOHN  McINTOSH   KELL 

Executive  Officer  of  "Sumter"  and  "Alabama' 


NON    IN    SOLO 


PANE  VIVIT  HOMO 


WASHINGTON 
THE  NEALE  COMPANY,  PUBLISHERS 
431  Eleventh  Street 
1900 


Copyright,  igoo,  by 

THE  NEALE  COMPANY 

Washington,  D.  C. 


Dedication 


TO  BLANCHE,    MY   WIFE 


*  Now  few  are  the  good  things  life  can  hold,- 
And  the  one  I  prize  all  others  above 

Is  neither  fame,  nor  a  wealth  of  gold. 
But  the  trust  and  joy  of  a  perfect  love.'1'' 


Preface 

It  would  scarcely  seem  au  fait  that  a  book  should  make 
its  appearance  (no  matter  how  unpretentious  it  may  be) 
before  a  criticising  and  oftentimes  censorious  public  with- 
out a  preface.  Yet  I  have  usually  found  prefaces  either 
explanatory,  apologetic,  or  regretful.  The  book  will  be 
its  own  explanation,  I  have  no  apologies  to  make;  but  my 
regrets  are  many  and  great.  Ten  years  ago  I  made  up 
my  mind  and  began  to  write  this  book  for  the  pleasure  of 
my  family  and  friends.  In  my  busy  life  weeks  would  often 
pass  without  my  writing  a  word.  Having  a  natural  aver- 
sion to  the  pen  was  often  an  excuse  for  my  neglect,  and 
the  fact  was  ever  before  me  that  a  most  delightful  and  per- 
fect book  in  Admiral  Semmes'  "Service  Afloat"  had  been 
given  to  the  world,  from  which  mine  could  not  differ  in 
facts,  data,  or  detail,  and  could  never  approach  in  beauty 
of  diction  or  language.  My  life  has  been  one  of  deeds,  not 
words,  and  what  I  have  done  in  the  strictest  sense  of  duty 
and  high  integrity  of  purpose  shall  never  be  apologized  for. 
To  me  there  has  never  been  a  "New  South."  The  blood 
of  heroic  sires  and  gentle  mothers  in  the  veins  of  the  pres- 
ent generation  have  made  her  what  she  is — a  remodeled 
country,  built  upon  the  grandeur  of  the  past  and  the  holiest 
memories  a  people  ever  inherited !  The  Will  of  God  could 
not  be  stayed  or  averted.  Might  prevailed;  but  behind 
the  frowning  Providence  of  disaster  and  defeat  for  His  own 
wise  plans  and  purposes,  God  has  at  last  smiled  upon  the 
South,  and  she  has  many  compensations  from  His  hand. 
My  regrets  are  that  many  who  were  with  us  when  I  began 
to  write  will  never  con  these  simple  pages,  for  many,  in- 
deed most,  of  the  friends  of  my  youth  have  passed  before 
me  "on  that  road  from  which  no  traveler  e'er  returns." 


6  PREFACE 

To  their  children  and  my  own  posterity  I  leave  in  these 
pages  the  truth  of  history  and  hope  they  will  not  be  with- 
out interest  to  the  young.  To  my  brothers,  the  "United 
Confederate  Veterans,"  I  give  the  narrative  of  our  times, 
the  "times  that  tried  men's  souls,"  that  left  us  nought  save 
honor,  a  love  of  country,  the  sacred  memory  of  valiant 
lives  and  deeds,  and  a  hope  in  God ! 

Jno.  McIntosh  Kell. 

Sunnyside,  Georgia,  May  3,  1898. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 


PART  I 
Chapter  I 


I  believe  it  was  Job  who  so  pathetically  exclaimed,  "O, 
that  mine  adversary  had  written  a  book!"  (which  wish  I 
could  never  explain  satisfactorily  to  myself).  Not  being' 
solicited  by  my  enemies,  but  by  my  family  and  friends,  for 
their  pleasure,  hoping  it  will  give  pleasure  to  others  also, 
I  venture  to  record  some  of  the  incidents  of  travel  in  my 
long  and  eventful  life.  If  I  may  be  forgiven  the  egotism 
(as  I  am  an  "author  quite  unknown  to  fame"),  I  will  here 
introduce  myself  as  an  American  of  Southern  birth,  a 
Georgian,  proud  of  my  native  State.  I  was  named  for  my 
maternal  great  uncle,  General  John  Mcintosh,  famous  for 
deeds  of  heroism  in  the  war  with  the  Spaniards  in  the  early 
history  of  Georgia. 

When  I  was  four  years  old  my  father  died,  leaving  to  my 
mother's  care  five  little  children.  My  childhood  was  spent 
upon  our  plantation,  "Laurel  Grove,"  Mcintosh  County, 
often  varied  by  visits  to  Sapelo  Island,  the  residence  of 
my  mother's  first  cousin,  Hon.  Thomas  Spalding,  whose 
son  Randolph,  a  few  months  my  senior,  grew  up  with  me 
in  the  intimacy  of  brothers.  Our  grandmothers  were  sis- 
ters, Marjory  and  Hester  Mcintosh.  Marjory  married 
James  Spalding  and  Hester  (my  grandmother)  married 
Alexander  Baillie,  and  died  leaving  an  infant,  my  mother, 
who  was  reared  by  her  aunt,  Mrs.  Marjory  Spalding,  for 
whom  she  was  named. 


8  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

My  boyhood  was  passed  as  the  Southern  boy  of  that 
day,  in  the  healthful,  manly  sports  of  hunting,  riding,  boat- 
ing, and  fishing,  varied  by  school  attendance  in  Darien, 
the  county  seat  of  Mcintosh  County,  which  was  settled 
by  my  ancestors,  Clan  Mcintosh,  and  first  named  "New 
Inverness,"  for  their  distant  home  in  Scotland.  My  first 
teacher  was  Mr.  Bradwell,  who  was  famous  in  the  seaboard 
counties  as  a  teacher  of  great  merit  and  ability.  Shortly 
after,  Dr.  James  Troup,  the  friend  and  physician  of  our 
family,  was  elected  to  the  Legislature,  and  going  up  in  his 
carriage  to  Milledgeville  (for  it  was  before  the  days  of 
railroad  travel),  stopped  at  "Perry  Mills"  during  the  ex- 
amination of  a  school  kept  by  one  Musgrove,  a  Scotchman. 
Being  pleased  with  his  mode  of  teaching,  especially  mathe- 
matics and  English  grammar,  on  his  return  to  Darien  Dr. 
Troup  persuaded  my  mother  to  allow  him  to  take  me  with 
his  son  and  daughter  and  place  us  there  at  school.  This 
school,  however,  was  of  short  duration.  The  poor  old 
Scotchman  got  on  a  big  "spree,"  and  remaining  so  for 
some  time,  we  were  sent  home.  My  next  teacher  was  Mr. 
Pincheon,  who  conducted  a  large  and  prosperous  school 
in  Darien  till  he  was  called  to  take  charge  of  the  Chatham 
Academy,  in  Savannah.  To  this  school  I  was  sent  in  com- 
pany with  my  cousin,  Henry  K.  Rees,  now  Episcopal 
Evangelist  of  the  State  of  Georgia,  an  earnest  worker  in 
his  Master's  vineyard,  honored  and  beloved  in  his  profes- 
sion. From  this  school  I  returned  home  and  remained  a 
year. 

In  my  sixteenth  year  I  was  sent  to  Savannah  into  the 
counting  house  of  Andrew  Low  &  Co.,  with  a  view  of 
entering  mercantile  life.  I  cannot  say  that  it  was  to  my 
taste,  and  after  the  winter's  work  I  went  home  for  a  visit. 
I  found  the  U.  S.  Brig  Consort  on  a  survey  of  our  coast. 
This  vessel  was  under  the  command  of  Captain  Glynn, 
soon  succeeded  by  Captain  Ramsey;  and  here  there  came 
a  change  over  the  spirit  of  my  boyish  dreams  at  this  im- 
pressionable age,  and  I  resolved  to  serve  my  country  as  a 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  9 

naval  officer.  My  frequent  visits  to  the  ship  and  the  visits 
of  the  officers  to  my  home  (my  sisters  being  young  ladies 
in  society  at  the  time),  and  the  notice  the  officers  took  of 
me  as  a  lad,  was  no  doubt  very  suggestive  of  the  profes- 
sion; but  I  think  being  born  almost  within  sound  of  the 
billows  and  in  sight  of  the  "deep  blue  sea,"  I  had  an  innate 
love  for  it  which  grew  with  my  growth  and  strengthened 
with  my  strength,  and  which  will  remain  with  me  while 
life  lasts. 

At  my  earnest  entreaty  my  mother  (though  it  must  have 
cost  her  widowed  heart  many  a  pang)  applied  through  our 
immediate  Representative,  Hon.  Thos.  Butler  King,  who 
obtained  for  me  an  appointment  as  midshipman  in  the 
United  States  Navy,  dating  from  September  9,  1841. 

His  letter,  which  I  found  among  her  papers,  reads : — 

House  of  Representatives,   Washington. 

September  11,  1841. 
My  Dear  Madam  :  After  many  and  repeated  efforts  I  have  at  length 
obtained  a  midshipman's  warrant  for  your  son.  He  now  belongs  to  his 
country.  That  he  will  bear  himself  gallantly  and  honorably  in  the  ser- 
vice to  which  he  belongs  I  do  not  doubt.  That  he  may  attain  its  highest 
and  brightest  honors  is  the  sincere  wish  of  your  faithful  friend 

And  obt.  servant, 

Tho.  Butler  King. 
To  Mrs.  Kell, 
Darien,  Ga. 

My  first  orders  were  to  join  the  Sloop  of  War  Falmouth, 
then  fitting  out  at  the  Brooklyn  Navy  Yard,  and  under  the 
command  of  my  relative,  Captain  James  McKay  Mcintosh. 
In  obedience  to  orders  I  took  passage  on  a  sailing  vessel 
for  New  York  from  Savannah.  Upon  the  voyage  we  ex- 
perienced some  rough  weather;  but  having  once  taken  a 
trip  in  a  brig  from  Darien  to  Georgetown,  South  Carolina, 
with  the  family  of  Mr.  John  Green,  a  rice  planter  of  our 
county  (which  gave  me  my  first  experience  of  sea  life),  I 
felt  quite  at  home  on  the  voyage  to  New  York  and  did  not 
suffer  from  seasickness. 


10  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Upon  my  arrival  in  New  York  I  found  a  letter  from 
Captain  Mcintosh,  telling  me  to  take  passage  in  a  bay- 
steamer  for  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  where  he  was  residing  with 
his  family.  I  did  as  he  directed,  and  arriving  at  Bridge- 
port about  the  hour  of  noon,  proceeded  to  the  hotel.  My 
first  introduction  to  Northern  manners  and  customs  took 
place  here.  I  noticed  very  closely  everything  that  took 
place,  and  was  much  surprised  to  find  young  white  servant 
girls  attending  at  the  table.  The  dinner  was  a  revelation 
to  me.  Down  the  center  of  the  table  was  a  row  of 
pumpkin  pies.  After  getting  fairly  under  way  with  the 
meats  and  vegetables,  I  noticed  the  girls  handing  around 
in  pitchers  a  foaming  beverage,  which  I  innocently  mis- 
took for  champagne,  and  prepared  my  palate  for  a  luscious 
quaff.  Holding  my  tumbler  on  high  to  be  filled,  I  soon 
took  a  full  mouthful,  but  quietly  set  it  down  again,  and 
gazed  around  me  to  see  the  effect  on  other  people.  They 
seemed  to  enjoy  it,  but  it  was  my  first  taste  of  hard  cider, 
and  I  was  thoroughly  disgusted  and  disappointed.  Not 
so  with  the  pumpkin  pie,  however;  I  enjoyed  that  with  the 
zest  of  a  hungry  boy  of  sixteen.  After  dinner  I  sought  the 
residence  of  my  cousin,  Captain  Mcintosh,  and  made  the 
acquaintance  of  his  beautiful  young  wife  and  two  pretty 
little  children.  Among  the  features  of  the  little  town  was 
pointed  out  to  me  the  home  of  P.  T.  Barnum,  one  of  its 
residents.  One  evening  while  there  we  were  invited  to  tea. 
I  noticed  the  absence  of  all  Southern  breads,  such  as  waf- 
fles, muffins,  wafers,  etc.,  and  that  all  the  breads  were 
sweet,  commencing  with  doughnuts,  which  I  liked  on  first 
acquaintance.  In  two  or  three  days  the  captain  and  I 
went  to  New  York,  and  then  began  my  life  on  board  a 
''man  of  war." 

The  Falmouth  was  a  first-class  sloop  of  war  of  that  date. 
I  at  once  fitted  myself  out  in  the  jaunty  midshipman  uni- 
form, further  providing  myself  with  bedding  and  all  the 
necessary  articles,  and  took  up  my  quarters  with  my  mess- 
mates, to  "be  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep."     Every- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  11 

thing  was  pressed  forward  getting  ready,  as  we  were 
shortly  to  set  sail  for  what  was  then  known  as  the  "Gulf 
Squadron,"  and  to  take  with  us  as  passenger  the  newly- 
appointed  minister  to  Quito,  Mr.  Black.  My  letters,  at 
this  time  full  of  boyish  enthusiasm,  were  preserved  among 
my  mother's  treasures,  and  are  a  great  source  of  amuse- 
ment to  my  children  now.  After  landing  our  minister  we 
had  a  pleasant  and  interesting  cruise  through  the  Wind- 
ward Islands,  touching  at  Santa  Cruz,  St.  Thomas,  Mar- 
tinique, and  finally  shaping  our  course  for  Pensacola,  the 
rendezvous  of  the  Gulf  Squadron. 

On  arriving  at  Pensacola  we  entered  upon  a  round  of 
gaiety.  I  saw  for  the  first  time  here  the  celebrated  Mad- 
ame Le  Vert,  who  was  in  the  zenith  of  her  fame  and  popu- 
larity. I  have  seen  many  more  beautiful  women,  but 
never  saw  one  more  full  of  grace  and  vivacity  or  more 
charming  as  a  conversationalist.  After  remaining  in  port 
a  month  or  more  we  sailed  for  Vera  Cruz,  coming  to 
anchor  under  the  island  of  Sacrificios,  this  being  the  only 
safe  anchorage  from  the  violent  northers  that  blow  across 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  distant  some  miles  from  the  city. 
The  city  of  Vera  Cruz  presented  a  true  picture  of  Spanish 
architecture,  the  houses  being  built  of  adobe  or  unburnt 
brick,  plastered  and  whitewashed,  with  tile  roofing. 

The  city  was  not  attractive,  and  the  fort  opposite  pre- 
sented a  very  formidable  appearance — built  of  coral  from 
the  reef  upon  which  it  stood.  Old  Vera  Cruz,  fifteen  miles 
northwest  of  the  present  city,  is  said  to  be  the  spot  where 
Cortez  disembarked  in  1518.  Our  first  precaution  after 
anchoring  was  to  moor  ship  securely,  with  our  two  bowers 
and  sheet  anchors  so  planted  as  to  resist  these  violent 
northers,  also  sending  down  our  lower  yards  and  housing 
topmasts.  In  a  few  days  we  had  reason  to  congratulate 
ourselves  upon  being  so  well  prepared,  for  we  experienced 
one  of  those  storms  in  all  its  fury,  making  it  dangerous 
for  a  man  to  hold  his  head  even  above  the  rail  of  the  ship. 
We  were  quite  ready  and  relieved  after  this  severe  experi- 


12  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

ence  to  receive  the  order  to  "get  ready  for  sea."  In  those 
days  (it  being  before  the  day  of  steamers)  men-of-war  were 
allowed  to  carry  silver  from  one  country  to  another  as  an 
accommodation  to  merchants,  at  the  same  time  allowing 
a  percentage  for  this  service  to  the  captain  doing  such 
favor.  Our  captain  had  taken  on  board  a  quantity  of  silver 
bars  to  be  carried  to  parties  in  the  city  of  New  Orleans. 
After  a  pleasant  passage  we  arrived  and  anchored  off  the 
mouth  of  the  Belize,  our  ship  drawing  too  much  water  to 
cross  the  bar.  A  little  steam  tug  came  alongside,  to  which 
the  silver  was  transferred,  and  I,  with  other  officers,  was 
detailed  to  take  charge  of  the  silver  and  deliver  it  to  the 
houses  to  which  it  was  consigned.  My  first  impression  of 
New  Orleans  was  remarkable  in  this  particular.  We 
landed  in  the  French  part  of  the  city,  where  French  was 
the  prevailing  tongue,  while  across  the  street  dividing  the 
American  and  Creole  or  French  population  English  was 
used  entirely.  After  attending  to  our  mission  and  enjoy- 
ing a  day  in  the  city  we  returned  on  board  ship  and  shortly 
after  set  sail  for  Pensacola. 


Chapter  II 

Pensacola  in  those  days  was  the  paradise  of  midship- 
men. They,  with  their  seniors,  the  lieutenants,  gave  them- 
selves up  to  the  gaieties  of  this  seaport  town.  It  was  always 
noted  for  the  pretty  girls  that  had  their  homes  there,  and 
of  course  they  were  always  "belles"  when  the  Gulf  Squad- 
ron was  at  its  rendezvous.  Like  the  Norfolk  girls,  they 
were  very  full  of  "sea  knowledge."  My  friend,  John  N. 
Maffitt,  in  a  charming  little  story  of  his,  makes  an  old 
veteran  officer  say  to  a  middy :  "Mr.  Forbes,  a  leopard  can- 
not change  its  spots,  neither  can  a  Norfolk  girl  be  other- 
wise than  beautiful  and  d — d  dangerous.  At  school  their 
first  class  reader  is  'Dorsey  Lever.'  Every  Sunday  they 
study  the  'Navy  Register,'  and  when  standing  on  the 
'Bridge  of  Sighs'  with  'spooney'  midshipmen  by  their  sides 
they  become  instructors  of  astronomy,  nautical  romance 
and  the  abstruse  science  of  knotting  and  splicing."  Well, 
her  Pensacola  sisters  can  equal  the  Norfolk  girl,  and  "sigh- 
ing sailors,  beautiful  senoritas,  scowling  rivals  and  love-sick 
middies"  filled  the  tropical  air  of  that  old  town  in  my 
young  days,  and  "music,  moonlight,  love,  and  flowers" 
were  the  living  inspiration ! 

After  refitting  we  proceeded  on  our  way  northward, 
stopping  at  Savannah,  Georgia,  the  seaport  town  of  the 
captain's  native  State,  where  he  was  received  with  great 
cordiality,  and  our  ship  visited  by  many  of  its  inhabitants. 
The  captain  took  advantage  of  the  occasion  to  visit  his  old 
home  near  Darien,  Georgia,  and  to  my  great  delight  I 
accompanied  him,  and  visited  my  home  and  family  after 
many  months  of  absence.  We  were  quite  the  observed  of 
all  in  our  bright  uniforms,  and  I  felt  the  great  importance 
of  my  position  as  an  officer  of  the  Government,,  though 


14  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

only  a  midshipman !  We  enjoyed  our  week's  visit  to  the 
fullest  extent,  and  took  stage  coach  for  the  city  of  Savan- 
nah, passing  through  the  Counties  of  Mcintosh,  Liberty, 
etc.  Experiencing  some  runaway  tilts  in  the  coach  and 
four,  we  capped  the  climax  late  in  the  evening  by  the 
driver  going  to  sleep  and  upsetting  the  stage  in  a  marsh 
while  driving  over  a  causeway.  Fortunately  for  me,  I 
had  the  seat  with  the  driver,  and  soon  extricated  myself 
by  jumping  clear  of  the  wreck.  Not  so,  however,  with  the 
inside  passengers;  they  had  to  climb  through  the  upper 
windows  of  the  coach.  The  rotundity  of  the  captain  made 
this  rather  a  hard  job  for  him  and  he  lost  no  time  in  ad- 
dressing the  driver  in  sailor  parlance,  not  very  complimen- 
tary. After  all  were  rescued  alive  and  unhurt  and  the 
driver  had  meekly  borne  his  share  of  abuse  for  his  careless- 
ness, we  prepared  to  start  again. 

Righting  up  the  coach,  and  being  re-seated,  we  passed 
the  remainder  of  the  journey  in  laughing  and  joking  over 
the  ridiculous  plight  to  which  we  had  been  reduced,  the 
captain  declaring  he  "ran  no  such  risks  at  sea,  where  he 
was  much  more  safe  than  on  terra  firma."  Upon  arriving 
in  Savannah  we  joined  our  ship  and  set  sail  for  New  York. 
At  the  Brooklyn  Navy  Yard  we  found  the  Frigate  Savan- 
nah fitting  out  for  her  first  cruise,  and  bearing  the  broad 
pennant  of  the  commodore  of  the  Pacific  Squadron.  I 
applied  for  orders  to  this  vessel,  which  I  received,  and  re- 
ported for  duty  on  board — Captain  Andrew  Fitzhugh. 
commanding — October  20,  1843. 

As  soon  as  the  Frigate  Savannah  was  ready  for  sea  we 
set  sail  for  Rio  Janeiro  on  our  way  to  the  Pacific.  After 
a  remarkably  pleasant  voyage  we  anchored  off  Rio  on  the 
1 8th  of  December.  The  geographies  truly  say  that  the 
peerless  bay  of  Rio,  upon  which  the  city  is  situated,  is 
scarcely  rivaled  in  beauty  by  the  far-famed  Bay  of  Naples. 
On  nearing  the  coast  the  first  object  that  presents  itself  to 
the  mariner  is  "Sugar  Loaf  Mountain."  This  mountain  is 
about  nine  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.     There  are  many 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  15 

other  mountains,  among  them  the  "Organ,"  so  called  from 
the  resemblance  it  bears  to  the  pipes  of  a  huge  organ;  also 
"Table  Mountain,"  whose  summit  is  flat.  I  believe  it  is  this 
mountain  that  is  called  by  the  Portuguese  "Square  Top- 
sail." as  it  quite  resembles  that  article  of  rigging  to  a  prac- 
ticed eye.  Of  course  the  climate  of  Brazil  is  warm,  and 
subject  to  the  dread  usurper  of  such  climates,  yellow  fever; 
but  it  is  very  much  tempered  by  the  breezes  that  come 
from  the  sea.  The  city  of  Rio  has  a  great  deal  in  it  to 
enjoy.  We  midshipmen  went  on  shore  at  the  first  oppor- 
tunity, and  being  somewhat  tired  of  ship  fare  found  our 
way  to  a  restaurant  and  ordered  a  supper.  When  the  bill 
was  presented  it  was  up  in  the  millions  in  their  currency 
(with  which  we  were  not  then  familiar)  and  was  truly 
startling.  We  became  very  much  alarmed  and  thought 
we  were  a  lot  of  "busted  individuals,"  but  managed  upon 
a  financial  explanation  to  settle  the  bill.  Previous  to  this 
supper  we  had  "taken  in"  the  town,  visiting,  among  other 
places,  the  beautiful  Cathedral.  Upon  entering  this  build- 
ing we  handed  a  very  officious  and  self-important  guide 
some  small  change  to  show  us  around.  After  showing  us 
through  the  Cathedral  proper  he  invited  us  into  a  feast- 
room,  where  he  told  us  the  priests  the  night  before  had 
held  a  banquet.  Judging  from  the  empty  ale  bottles  it 
must  have  been  quite  a  banquet!  He  kindly  offered  us 
some  of  the  ale  (of  which  we  partook),  this  being  my  first 
and  last  experience  of  ale  drinking  in  a  church. 

After  taking  in  water  and  provisioning  ship,  we  contin- 
ued our  voyage  around  the  Horn,  encountering  rough 
weather,  heavy  gales,  boisterous  seas,  and  a  very  low 
degree  of  temperature,  being  nearly  frozen  for  three  weeks 
off  the  pitch  of  the  Cape.  The  violence  of  the  gales  forced 
us  down  to  latitude  62  degrees  south.  After  rounding  the 
Cape  we  shaped  our  course  northward  in  the  broad  Pacific, 
and  welcomed  the  more  temperate  clime  of  the  lower  lati- 
tudes. 


16  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

On  the  17th  of  February,  1844,  we  came  to  anchor  in 
the  Bay  of  Callao,  the  seaport  of  Lima,  the  ancient  Capital 
of  Peru.  The  Bay  of  Callao  is  formed  from  a  peninsula 
on  which  formerly  stood  the  old  city  of  Callao,  submerged 
more  than  a  hundred  years  ago  by  a  terrible  earthquake, 
the  chimneys  still  showing  above  ground.  An  English 
company  were  proposing  at  that  time  to  excavate  for  the 
buried  treasure  of  that  once  wealthy  city.  It  is  related 
that  during  this  terrific  earthquake  a  Spanish  frigate  was 
carried  by  the  incoming  sea  several  miles  in  the  interior 
and  left  there  by  the  receding  waters. 

The  island  of  San  Lorenzo  forms  the  western  barrier  or 
sea  front  to  the  bay,  thus  forming  a  very  snug  anchorage. 
Callao  was  built  after  the  style  of  old  Spanish  towns — sub- 
ject to  earthquakes — of  adobe,  with  one  story  only,  and 
tile  roofing.  Lima,  about  six  miles  from  Callao,  is  famous 
for  its  old  cathedrals  of  great  wealth  and  magnificence, 
dating  back  to  the  days  of  Pizarro.  In  one  of  these  we 
were  shown  by  the  priest  a  body  embalmed  and  claimed  to 
be  that  of  Pizarro  himself.  A  beautiful  stream  passes 
through  the  city,  and  along  its  banks  are  shaded  walks, 
where  the  Spanish  maidens  and  duennas  are  seen  in  their 
peculiar  dress,  with  a  mantilla  over  the  head  having  an 
opening  for  but  one  eye.  This  eye,  often  of  brilliant  ap- 
pearance, united  to  a  graceful,  queenly  carriage  and  walk, 
leaves  great  scope  for  imagined  beauty.  Across  the  stream 
is  a  famous  amphitheatre,  where  the  renowned  bullfights 
took  place  at  that  time,  a  great  attraction  for  the  city  and 
country  around — doubloons  and  bouquets  being  eagerly 
thrown  to  the  successful  matadors.  It  was  of  course  our 
privilege  to  witness  one  of  these  scenes  of  wild  excitement 
and  great  brutality.  Often  fine  steeds  were  gored  and  the 
matador  himself  fatally  injured,  and  finally  the  poor  bull 
would  succumb  to  the  torture  no  longer  endurable.  Then 
would  be  brought  in  a  truck  pulled  by  four  magnificent 
horses  richly  caparisoned,  the  carcass  thrown  upon  it,  and 
amidst   the   shouts   of  the   multitude   carried   out,   when 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  17 

another  animal  would  be  brought  in  to  go  through  the 
same  ordeal.  Lima  was  famous  for  her  bullfights,  the 
cruel  sport  of  a  semi-barbarous  age  and  time. 

At  Callao  I  was  transferred  to  the  Schooner  Shark, 
under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Neil  M.  Howison. 
Mr.  Howison  came  out  as  flag  lieutenant  with  Commodore 
Dallas,  ordered  to  command  the  Pacific  Squadron.  The 
commodore's  flag  was  hoisted  on  the  Frigate  Savannah, 
but  he  did  not  live  to  take  a  cruise.  He  was  taken  sick  and 
died  on  shore  at  Callao.  The  Schooner  Shark  was  given 
to  his  flag  lieutenant  as  a  select  command,  and  it  was  a 
privilege  to  serve  on  board.  I,  being  only  a  midshipman, 
was  placed  in  charge  of  a  watch.  My  first  experience  was 
an  amusing  one.  The  Shark  was  ordered  to  take  some  of 
our  officers  leaving  the  squadron  to  Panama  on  their  way 
home.  While  on  this  voyage  we  passed  quite  near  the 
Lobas  group  of  islands,  or  really  a  group  of  rocks,  where 
seals  and  sea  lions  reared  their  young  in  great  numbers. 
We  were  running  with  a  free  wind  with  our  square  sails 
set,  and  the  course  given  me  took  us  quite  near  the  rocks. 
Upon  the  near  approach  of  the  schooner  the  seals  set  up  a 
great  roaring  as  they  rolled  into  the  water  from  their  rocky 
beds  and  frolicked  around  in  the  water  in  our  wake.  It 
happened  to  be  just  at  dinner  time,  and  the  officers  taking 
passage  were  at  table  with  the  captain.  I  put  my  head 
down  the  hatchway  and  called  to  the  captain  to  "come 
and  see  the  seals  playing  around  the  vessel."  He  replied : 
"Will  be  up  as  soon  as  I  finish  dinner,"  but  one  of  the 
officers  came  up  at  once.  Calling  out,  he  said :  "Howison, 
come  on  deck !"  As  the  captain  came  up  he  was  surprised 
to  see  our  nearness  to  the  rocks;  still  I  was  keeping  the 
course  given  me,  but  there  was  evidently  a  current  setting 
us  on  toward  them.  The  captain  at  a  glance  took  in  the 
situation.  He  directed  me  to  "put  the  helm  down  and 
haul  on  the  wind  and  give  good  distance  in  passing  the 
rocks,  remarking,  by  way  of  pleasantry,  "Mr.  Kell,  you 
must  think  you  are  in  a  coach  and  four,  driving  round  a 


18  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

street  corner."  I  was  strictly  carrying  out  my  orders,  but 
was  wanting  in  experience  as  a  watch  officer.  For  a  long 
time  after  that  I  heard  a  great  deal  of  "those  seals  and  my 
coach  and  four." 

We  reached  Panama  after  a  pleasant  voyage,  and  took 
leave  of  our  officers,  who  crossed  the  Isthmus  on  their  way 
home.  We  anchored  off  the  island  of  Toboga,  which  was 
then  in  its  primitive  state,  and  occupied  by  the  native 
Indians,  with  the  exception  of  an  old  Irish  woman,  who  had 
married  one  of  the  head  men  of  their  tribe.  She  did  the 
washing  for  the  officers,  using  as  a  smoothing  iron  the 
conchs  picked  up  on  the  seashore.  This  was  truly  a  lovely 
spot  in  its  primeval  growth  and  beauty.  Its  limpid 
streams  ran  down  from  the  hills  above  into  grottoes,  mak- 
ing beautiful  natural  bathing  houses,  which  we  enjoyed  to 
the  fullest  extent.  From  our  refreshing  baths  we  would 
stroll  up  into  the  pineapple  fields  and  gather  the  fruit  ripe 
from  the  plant,  and  only  those  who  have  eaten  it  in  this 
way  know  its  exquisite  perfection.  After  getting  on  board 
sufficient  water  for  our  voyage,  with  what  fruit,  vegetables, 
and  poultry  we  could  gather  from  the  natives,  and  our  sup- 
ply of  clean  linen  from  our  Irish  washerwoman,  beautifully 
clean,  but  conch  ironed  and  minus  buttons,  we  took  our 
departure  from  lovely  Toboga,  one  of  the  natural  garden 
spots  of  God's  great  universe. 

Returning  along  the  coast  of  South  America,  with  pleas- 
ant breezes  and  smooth  seas,  we  stopped  in  the  port  of 
Payta,  where  a  limited  trade  is  carried  on  with  coasting 
vessels  and  whalers.  We  also  ran  into  the  small  port  of 
Fluanchaco.  There,  in  company  with  the  captain  and  one 
or  two  other  officers,  I  left  the  schooner  for  a  day's  ride 
in  the  country  to  visit  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  cities  of  the 
Incas,  who  occupied  that  country  when  Pizarro  passed 
along  on  his  conquering  march  to  the  city  of  Lima.  We 
could  distinctly  trace  out  the  streets  and  the  foundations 
of  some  of  the  buildings.     In  our  ride  through  these  ruins 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  19 

we  frightened  up  a  fox  from  his  lair,  and  had  a  wild  chase 
over  the  old  town,  which  was  royal  fun  for  a  lot  of  sailors. 
On  our  return  to  the  village  of  Huanchaco  we  were 
entertained  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  priests  of  the  village, 
where  we  enjoyed  a  most  delightful  drink  made  from  a 
species  of  the  passion  flower,  or  May-pop,  called  there  the 
"granadelia."  It  is  quite  as  acid  and  has  a  more  pleasant 
taste  than  the  common  lime.  We  returned  at  sunset  on 
board  ship  and  next  morning  early  got  under  way  and 
stood  down  the  coast  for  Callao,  stopping  at  convenient 
points  for  hunting  and  fishing,  for  little  health  runs  on 
shore,  and  other  amusements  of  various  kinds. 


Chapter  III 

In  the  very  early  part  of  this  cruise  I  find  from  old  let- 
ters (one  of  which  I  will  insert)  that  I  was  very  much  im- 
pressed with  San  Domingo  and  the  surroundings,  and 
must  have  picked  up  some  traditions  from  the  islanders. 

Latitude  i8°  43'  N.,  Long.  75°  23'  W. 
May  6. 
My  Dear  Mother:  We  have  in  sight  St.  Domingo  and  the  small 
island  of  Navaza,  the  latter  noted  for  being  the  place  where  some  of 
Columbus'  men  landed  in  crossing  from  Jamaica  to  St.  Domingo  in 
canoes,  having  lost  their  vessel  on  the  former  island.  There  were  but 
two  among  his  crew  that  would  volunteer  to  cross,  so  after  working  on 
and  improving  the  canoe  to  enable  it  better  to  stand  the  sea  they 
started,  taking  Indians  to  paddle  them.  Before  arriving  at  this  island 
one  of  them  died  famishing  for  water,  and  after  landing  on  the  barren 
rock  they  found  pools  of  water.  The  poor  natives  insisted  upon  drink- 
ing their  fill,  and  would  not  listen  to  the  precautions  of  the  Spaniards, 
and  several  others  died.  Had  these  daring  adventurers  missed  this 
island  they  would  certainly  have  perished  before  reaching  St.  Domingo, 
and  Columbus  no  doubt  would  never  have  been  heard  from,  but  left  to 
die  by  the  hand  of  the  savages.  Soon  after  this  adventure  the  natives 
stopped  bringing  him  provisions,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty 
he  could  procure  subsistence  for  his  men.  I  was  struck  with  the  strata- 
gem he  used  for  inducing  the  natives  to  furnish  him  with  provisions. 
He  ascertained  that  within  three  days  there  would  be  a  total  eclipse  of 
the  moon  in  the  early  part  of  the  night.  He  therefore  sent  to  the  prin- 
cipal caciques,  or  head  men,  of  each  tribe,  and  summoned  them  to  a 
conference,  appointing  for  it  the  day  of  the  eclipse.  When  they  arrived 
he  spoke  to  them  sharply  for  having  prevented  their  people  from  fur- 
nishing him  with  food.  After  haranguing  them  for  some  time  he  told 
them  he  and  his  followers  worshiped  a  God  who  lived  in  the  skies, 
who  favored  all  that  were  good,  but  punished  transgressors ;  that  this 
great  God  was  angry  with  the  Indians  who  had  refused  to  furnish  his 
faithful  followers  with  food,  and  intended  to  chasten  them  with  famine 
and  pestilence.     Should  they  disbelieve  his  warning,  a  signal  would  be 


RECOLLECTIONS  OE  A  NAVAL  LIFE  21 

given  that  night  that  the  moon  would  change  its  color  as  a  token  of 
the  punishment  that  awaited  them.  Many  scoffed  at  him,  but  waited 
most  anxiously  the  coming  of  the  night.  The  moon  rose  majestically 
and  all  eyes  were  fixed  upon  her.  At  the  time  Columbus  told  them,  the 
moon  grew  darker  and  darker,  and  abject  terror  seized  upon  them. 
Hurrying  to  Columbus  they  implored  him  to  intercede  with  his  Deity, 
and  they  would  hereafter  bring  him  everything  he  required.  Columbus 
left  them,  promising  to  intercede.  When  the  eclipse  was  nearly  over 
he  returned,  saying  his  God  had  deigned  to  listen,  and  would  pardon 
them  on  condition  that  they  kept  their  promise,  and  that  the  darkness 
would  now  be  withdrawn.  When  the  moon  emerged  in  her  brightness 
they  were  overwhelmed  with  joy,  and  furnished  Columbus  ever  after- 
wards abundantly. 

The  island  of  Navaza  is  also  remarkable  for  a  fountain  of  fresh 
water  gushing  up  near  it  in  the  sea,  which  sweetens  the  surface  for 
some  distance.  Should  we  be  favored  with  fair  winds  to-night  I  think 
we  may  be  at  anchor  off  Aux  Cayes  to-morrow  evening,  as  we  are  dis- 
tant some  sixty  miles. 

After  this  digression  I  will  proceed  to  Callao,  where  we 
arrived  and  safely  put  into  our  old  anchorage,  March  6, 
1845.  We  found  there  at  anchor  the  Store  Ship  Relief, 
the  English  Line  of  Battle  Ship  Collingwood,  the  English 
Steamer  Cormorant,  and  the  French  Sloop  of  War  Tri- 
umphante.  This  made  it  very  gay.  Every  evening  we 
were  off  watch  or  duty  we  fell  into  our  old  habit  of  going 
on  shore  for  a  horseback  ride  or  some  other  pastime.  In 
looking  back  at  those  days  when,  as  the  poet  beautifully 
expresses  it,  "Life  was  in  its  spring,"  it  took  very  little  to 
awaken  our  mirth,  and  less  with  health  and  freedom  from 
care  to  make  us  happy. 

On  the  2d  of  April  we  set  sail  for  Valparaiso,  taking  on 
board  Captain  Armstrong,  returning  home.  After  a  very 
boisterous  passage  we  arrived  in  Valparaiso  on  the  20th 
of  April,  and  on  the  25th  experienced  a  very  heavy  gale 
from  the  northwest,  which  made  our  little  vessel  toss  and 
pitch  terrifically,  with  seas  breaking  entirely  over  us.  One 
or  two  ships  went  aground.  The  next  morning  the  shore 
presented  an  appearance  of  wreck  and  disaster.  We  were 
glad  to  leave  this  insecure  bay,  and  on  the  29th  sailed  on 


22  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

our  return  to  Callao,  having  landed  Captain  Armstrong  at 
Valparaiso. 

This  city  is  the  principal  port  of  Chile,  and  while  the  bay 
upon  which  it  is  situated  is  capable  of  sheltering  a  large 
fleet  or  squadron,  it  is  open  to  the  north,  and  when  winds 
prevail  from  this  quarter  it  is  scarcely  a  safe  anchorage. 
Its  name  being  interpreted  means  "Vale  of  Paradise," 
which  it  must  have  acquired  from  the  delightful  climate 
and  picturesque  scenery.  It  is  quite  a  seat  of  commerce 
and  is  in  the  direct  route  of  vessels  proceeding  to  the 
countries  bordering  on  the  Pacific. 

My  service  on  the  Schooner  Shark  ended  here  and  I  was 
transferred  to  my  old  ship,  the  Frigate  Savannah,  bearing 
the  broad  pennant  of  Commodore  John  D.  Sloat. 

While  the  service  on  board  the  little  Schooner  Shark 
was  very  much  enjoyed,  it  was  a  pleasure  to  get  back  to  the 
strict  man-of-war  discipline  and  etiquette  of  the  frigate. 
We  had  a  fine  band  of  music  on  board,  and  were  constantly 
receiving  and  exchanging  visits  with  the  officers  of  the 
foreign  ships  in  port,  principally  English  and  French. 
After  weeks  of  this  life  we  were  rejoiced  to  hear  "all  hands 
up  anchor,"  bound  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This  voyage 
took  us  across  the  broad  Pacific,  and  after  falling  into  the 
trade  winds  we  sailed  for  days  without  changing  the  course 
of  the  ship  or  trimming  the  yards.  The  entire  voyage — 
so  calm  was  the  sea  and  so  moderate  the  wind — might 
have  been  made  in  an  open  boat.  \We  came  to  anchor  in 
Byron's  Bay,  Island  of  Hawaii,  a  beautiful  land-locked 
bay,  with  the  tropical  growth  coming  down  to  the  water's 
edge,  while  high  up  in  the  mountains  could  be  seen  streams 
rushing  down  precipices  to  mingle  with  the  waters  of  the 
bay  in  silver  spray.  No  sooner  was  the  ship  brought  to 
anchor  than  we  were  surrounded  by  canoes  with  outrig- 
gers to  steady  them  from  capsizing,  loaded  with  tropical 
fruits  of  all  varieties.  The  natives,  instead  of  passing  from 
one  boat  to  another  to  reach  the  side  of  the  ship,  would 
pass  the  fruit  and  disappear  overboard,  coming  up  along- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  23 

side  the  ship.  As  they  were  unencumbered  by  dress,  this 
diving  was  easy  to  accomplish,  and  they  appeared  quite  as 
much  at  home  in  the  water  as  out  of  it.  The  deck  of  the 
ship  was  soon  spread  out  liberally  with  all  the  beautiful 
fruits,  thereby  rejoicing  the  eyes  that  love  the  beautiful  in 
Nature,  and  giving  pleasure  to  officers  and  crew  with  the 
feast  in  anticipation,  grown  in  this  Paradise  of  the  tropics. 
The  natives  then  were  a  simple  and  confiding  people, 
influenced  for  good  by  a  missionary's  family  who  lived 
among  them.  The  dress  of  the  females  consisted  of  a 
loose  flowing  gown  made  from  the  bark  of  a  tree.  The 
males  wore  a  coarser  fibrous  material  of  the  same  sort. 
The  chief  luxury  in  life  seemed  to  consist  in  bathing.  On 
the  outskirts  of  the  village  was  a  beautiful  pool  of  fresh 
water,  formed  by  a  stream  coming  down  the  mountain 
side,  and  they  could  be  seen  at  all  hours  of  the  day  going 
in  and  coming  out,  as  merry  as  dolphins  at  play.  Little 
children,  just  able  to  scramble  up  the  rocks,  would  reach 
an  elevated  position  and  spring  over  into  the  pool  with 
the  exquisite  grace  of  nymphs.  Upon  this  island  is  the 
famous  volcano  of  Mauna  Loa,  which  has  several  times 
poured  its  streams  of  lava  down  the  mountain  side  into  the 
sea,  destroying  the  fish  for  miles  along  the  coast.  The 
day  after  our  arrival  several  of  us  got  permission  to  visit 
this  volcano,  and  secured  a  sufficient  number  of  natives  to 
carry  our  change  of  clothing  in  a  "Sandwich  Island  trunk," 
which  was  really  two  immense  gourds  fitted  into  each 
other,  the  larger  half  over  the  smaller,  thus  making  it  air 
and  water-tight.  The  mode  of  carrying  was  also  novel,  one 
on  each  side  of  a  pole  over  a  man's  shoulder,  being  evenly 
balanced;  the  sticks  so  smooth  and  glossy  that  they  did  not 
even  bruise  the  bare  shoulders  of  the  carrier.  We  at  once 
began  to  climb  the  mountain,  through  beautiful  groves  of 
guava,  a  fruit  peculiar  for  its  water  properties  of  slaking 
thirst,  and  which  we  enjoyed  freely  when  no  spring  or 
stream  was  by.  In  many  places  we  passed  over  beds  of 
lava,  like  molten  glass  of  greenish  hue.     After  a  tiresome 


24  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

day's  jaunt  we  came  to  the  "half-way  house,"  utterly 
broken  down.  We  were  glad  to  rest  on  the  clean  mats 
furnished  us,  and  enjoyed  still  more  the  relief  afforded  by 
their  process  of  lomi-lomi,  or,  as  it  would  now  be  called, 
"massage  treatment."  This  was  a  gentle  pounding  of 
every  muscle  of  the  body  and  limbs  with  the  fists.  Before 
retiring,  however,  to  this  refreshing  treatment  we  took  the 
precaution  to  order  our  supper.  They  suggested  a  nice 
dog,  but  we  said  we  preferred  chickens  and  vegetables. 
They  cook  delightfully,  in  holes  lined  with  smooth  rocks 
in  which  they  build  fires.  When  the  rocks  become  thor- 
oughly heated  to  the  highest  degree  they  put  in  the  poul- 
try cut  up  in  pieces  of  convenient  size,  wrapped  in  large 
plantain  leaves  so  as  to  retain  all  the  juices;  then  they 
cover  these  carefully  prepared  packages  with  hot  rocks, 
over  which  they  bank  earth,  leaving  a  vent  hole  for  the 
steam  to  escape.  This  process  of  cooking  retained  all  the 
flavor  of  meats  and  vegetables,  and  was  delightful.  I  sup- 
pose it  is  akin  to  the  process  of  barbecuing  still  prac- 
ticed in  portions  of  the  world,  especially  our  own  South. 
We  arose  in  an  hour  or  two  and  enjoyed  this  royal  feast, 
"fit  for  the  gods,"  then  indulged  in  a  cigar  or  two,  and 
after  a  little  merrymaking  sought  our  luxurious  couches  of 
mats  and  slept  soundly  until  the  sun  awoke  us  the  next 
morning.  Awaking  with  renewed  energy  we  had  the  rem- 
nants of  our  feast  of  the  evening  ^before,  with  the  addition 
of  a  nice  cup  of  coffee,  and  proceeded  up  the  mountain, 
arriving  at  the  crater  of  the  volcano  about  noon.  The 
view  was  strikingly  grand  and  wonderful  to  eyes  that  had 
never  before  beheld  such  workings  of  Nature.  At  the  bot- 
tom of  this  extinct  crater,  about  seven  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence and  several  hundred  feet  deep,  was  a  burning  lake  of 
lava  some  three  miles  in  circumference  and  boiling  like  a 
pot  of  hominy.  Our  guides  proposed  our  going  down  to 
the  burning  lake,  to  which  we  assented,  and  with  long 
staffs  furnished  us  we  began  our  perilous  descent.  This 
feat  we  accomplished  without  accident,  walking  upon  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  25 

congealed  lava  to  the  very  edge  of  the  burning  lake.  Our 
guides  were  very  careful  to  approach  on  the  windward  side, 
as  it  would  have  been  instant  death  to  have  the  wind  blow 
on  us  across  the  molten  lake.  We  however  approached  it 
in  safety  and  near  enough  to  put  our  staffs  into  the  burn- 
ing lake.  After  accomplishing  this  feat  we  gladly  retraced 
our  steps,  and  were  a  little  hurried  in  doing  so  when  told 
"that  a  shift  of  wind  would  destroy  us." 

Now  came  the  "tug  of  war"  in  the  ascent  of  the  precipi- 
tous sides  of  the  cavern,  often  stopping  at  convenient 
points  to  view  the  depths  below.  We  reached  the  surface 
above  just  at  sunset,  and  surveyed  with  amazement  the 
wonderful  fissures  in  the  earth  through  which  came  sul- 
phurous fumes  and  steam.  Along  the  margin  of  these  fis- 
sures were  beautifully  crystallized  formations  of  sulphur. 
As  night  approached  we  seated  ourselves  to  view  the  mag- 
nificent pyrotechnics  of  Nature.  The  boiling  caldron 
below  presented  a  lake  of  fire  spurting  up  the  boiling  lava 
in  every  conceivable  and  beautiful  shape.  This  wonderful 
sight  banished  slumber  from  our  eyes  till  the  "wee  sma' 
hours,"  when  we  could  no  longer  resist  "tired  Nature's 
sweet  restorer,  balmy  sleep."  Early  the  next  morning, 
after  partaking  of  a  light  breakfast  and  a  cup  of  refreshing 
coffee,  we  retraced  our  steps  down  the  mountain,  delighted 
with  the  specimens  of  lava  we  had  obtained  and  put  in  our 
Sandwich  Island  trunks.  We  arrived  at  the  village  by 
the  sea  just  in  time  to  take  passage  in  the  sunset  boat  for 
our  ship.  The  enjoyment  of  this  visit  to  the  crater  of 
Mauna  Loa  lingers  with  me  still,  and  is  one  of  the  unfor- 
gotten  pleasures  of  my  life. 


Chapter  IV 

In  a  few  days  we  took  leave  of  this  charming  island  and 
its  beautiful  scenery  and  made  sail  for  Honolulu,  Oahu 
Island,  reaching  that  port  in  two  days.  This  port,  even 
at  that  day,  was  the  most  important  among  the  group  of 
Sandwich  Islands.  Here  the  whalers  gather  to  transfer 
their  cargoes  of  oil  and  do  their  trading.  Drunkenness 
and  debauch  was  even  at  this  early  day  showing  itself 
among  the  poor  natives  from  their  contact  with  (so-called) 
civilization.  Different,  indeed,  from  Byron's  Bay,  where 
innocence  and  purity  were  presented  in  its  primeval  state. 
Our  first  visit  to  the  shore  was  an  official  one,  that  of  the 
commodore  and  his  staff  (of  which  I  was  a  member)  to 
call  upon  King  Kamiamaha  the  third,  then  reigning  mon- 
arch. Upon  entering  his  palace  each  one,  from  the  com- 
modore to  the  least  important  of  the  party,  was  requested 
to  place  his  signature  in  a  book  presented  by  one  of  the 
king's  officials.  The  reception  room  was  nicely  furnished, 
but  presented  no  feature  of  European  royalty.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  king  entered  the  room  dressed  in  a  full  uni- 
form in  European  costume  liberally  covered  with  gold  lace. 
He  seemed  very  ill  at  ease,  but  was  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
Kanaka,  or  Sandwich  Island  type.  After  exchanging  the 
compliments  usual  on  such  occasions  we  took  our  leave. 
When  out  of  the  palace  the  missionary  who  accompanied 
us  remarked,  "The  king  will  soon  get  out  of  his  trapping 
and  don  his  tappa-robe  and  go  to  the  beach  and  his  bath, 
where  he  spends  most  of  the  time."  The  surf  bathing 
practiced  by  these  natives  is  of  a  most  exhilarating  char- 
acter. Taking  a  little  float  of  reeds,  called  a  balsa,  they 
work  their  way  outside  the  heavy  rollers,  then  watch  their 
opportunity  and  get  their  balsa  pointed  in  towards  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  27 

shore,  and  on  top  of  the  largest  billow  would  come  rushing 
in  at  tremendous  speed  to  the  beach,  where  the  receding 
billow  would  leave  them  stranded.  Shouldering  their 
balsa  they  would  go  through  the  same  sport  time  and 
again,  till  wearied  of  the  healthful  exercise  and  pastime. 
The  natives  generally  were  a  fine-looking  class  of  people; 
olive-colored,  with  black  eyes,  and  long  black  hair,  and  of 
dignified  mien.  At  that  day  there  were  very  few  foreign- 
ers on  the  island — only  a  few  missionaries  and  their  fami- 
lies. The  women  were  fine  equestriennes  and  always  pre- 
sented a  picturesque  appearance.  There  is  a  famous  ride 
there  through  what  is  called  the  "valley  of  death."  The 
legend  that  gives  it  this  name  is  this :  During  one  of  their 
tribal  wars  the  victorious  tribe  drove  their  flying  foe  up 
this  valley,  which  terminated  in  an  abrupt  precipice  of 
iooo  feet  or  more,  violently  precipitating  them  into  the  sea, 
and,  like  Pharaoh's  hosts  of  old,  "the  waters  covered  them 
up"  and  they  were  seen  no  more ! 

After  making  quite  a  stay  at  Honolulu  we  sailed  for 
Mazatlan  to  gain  some  information  from  the  United  States 
of  the  rumored  threatened  war  with  Mexico.  Mazatlan 
lies  on  the  west  coast  of  Mexico.  Here  we  remained  from 
November  18,  1845,  till  June  1,  1846.  Six  months  we 
passed  waiting  anxiously  for  the  treaties  between  the 
United  States  and  Mexico,  which  all  seemed  tending  to 
war.  During  our  long  stay  at  this  port  we  sometimes 
amused  ourselves  hunting.  The  game  was  fine  and 
abundant.  Upon  one  occasion,  going  some  distance  back 
in  the  country  to  shoot  pheasants,  a  party  of  us  called  at 
a  good-looking  cottage  on  a  ranch  and  asked  for  butter- 
milk. We  were  invited  in,  and  found  a  number  of  nice- 
looking  women  and  a  few  very  surly  looking  Mexicans. 
We  were  served  with  delightful  milk,  and  left.  After  we 
got  out  of  hearing  we  remarked  to  eacE  other  upon  the 
cut-throat,  brigandish  looks  of  the  men,  and  decided  to  be 
on  our  guard  and  within  hearing  of  each  other  in  our  hunt. 
We  were  not  mistaken  in  our  suspicions.     A  short  way 


28  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

from  the  ranch  we  noticed  the  fellows  tracking  us,  guns 
in  hand.  Catching  sight  of  them  before  they  did  of  us,  we 
changed  our  course,  taking  a  direct  line  to  the  coast.  They 
evidently  intended  to  shoot  us  from  the  thicket.  Notwith- 
standing this  damper  to  our  enthusiasm  as  sportsmen,  we 
got  up  a  fine  flock  of  pheasants,  and  water  fowl  from  the 
lake  near  the  sea,  returning  on  board  with  a  nice  lot  of 
game  and  no  disasters. 

On  the  i st  of  June,  1846,  learning  that  war  had  been 
declared  with  Mexico,  we  set  sail  for  Monterey,  where  we 
arrived  in  safety  and  found  at  anchor  the  Sloops  of  War 
Cyane  and  Levant.  On  the  7th  day  of  July  we  landed  with 
a  strong  force  and  took  formal  possession  of  California, 
and  hoisted  the  American  colors.  The  name  "California" 
is  said  to  have  been  first  used  in  an  old  book  in  Spain,  and 
to  mean  "Island  of  Gold."  While  the  legend  is  incorrect 
as  to  California  being  an  island  it  may  correctly  be  termed 
a  country  of  gold,  possessing  as  it  does  the  richest  gold 
mines  yet  discovered  in  the  world.  California  at  the  date 
of  which  I  write  was  almost  an  unknown  country.  A 
Jesuit  mission  was  founded  there  in  1776,  and  through  the 
rich  valleys  were  missions,  walled  to  resist  the  depredations 
of  the  natives.  In  the  grounds  surrounding  these  mis- 
sions they  cultivated  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  Europe, 
which  grew  so  luxuriantly  as  to  surpass  anything  ever  seen 
in  their  native  country.  The  vines,  too,  grew  to  great 
perfection  and  the  pears  were  splendid.  The  grape  had 
become  so  popular  when  we  were  there  that  the  people  of 
the  country  would  bring  pitchers  of  home-made  wine — 
a  most  palatable  and  delightful  beverage — to  refresh  us 
when  we  went  among  them.  The  women  were  kind  and 
polite  when  we  had  occasion  to  stop  and  ask  questions,  but 
the  country  homes  were  conspicuous  for  the  absence  of  the 
male  members  of  the  family.  These  were  forming  in 
squads  or  being  organized  to  resist  the  invasion  of  the 
country.     We  left  on  shore  a  sufficient  number  of  soldiers 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  29 

and  seamen  to  hold  possession  of  Monterey,  it  being  at 
that  time  the  Capital  of  California.  There  was  no  demon- 
stration by  the  natives  against  our  holding  peaceable  pos- 
session of  the  town. 

After  properly  appointing  the  city  authorities  the  squad- 
ron sailed  for  San  Francisco  to  take  possession  of  that 
point.  There  landing  a  force  we  immediately  proceeded 
to  build  a  blockhouse  to  guard  against  any  attack  from  a 
large  force.  At  that  time  the  town  of  San  Francisco  con- 
sisted of  only  about  half  a  dozen  frame  houses.  Leaving 
a  sufficient  force  at  this  place  we  sailed  for  the  bay  of  San 
Pedro,  where  we  arrived  October  7th.  On  entering  the 
harbor  we  passed  the  American  Merchant  Ship  Vandalia, 
with  a  large  body  of  men  on  board.  She  was  at  anchor. 
She  saluted  us  with  two  guns,  and  gave  three  cheers,  which 
we  returned.  Captain  Gillespie,  of  the  Marine  Corps, 
came  on  board  and  reported  that  he  had  evacuated  the 
Puebla  de  Los  Angelos  on  account  of  the  overpowering 
force  of  the  enemy.  He  retired  on  board  the  Vandalia 
after  having  spiked  his  guns.  He  also  reported  that  all 
lower  California  had  risen  in  arms  against  our  authorities, 
headed  by  Flores,  a  captain  in  the  Mexican  Army. 

We  made  preparations  for  landing  at  daylight  the  next 
morning,  when  we  landed  299  men.  A  few  of  the  enemy, 
twenty  or  thirty  men,  were  in  sight  on  the  Angelos  road, 
a  few  more  showing  themselves  and  drawn  up  as  if  inclined 
to  give  battle.  At  8  a.  m.  the  entire  force,  under  com- 
mand of  Captain  Mervine,  took  up  the  line  of  march  for 
the  purpose  of  retaking  the  Puebla  de  Los  Angelos,  the 
enemy  retreating  on  the  advance  of  our  forces.  A  whale- 
boat  arrived  from  San  Diego  bringing  news  that  Captain 
Merritt,  a  volunteer,  had  been  forced  to  retire  on  the 
American  Ship  Stonington,  the  enemy  cutting  off  all  pro- 
visions from  them  and  collecting  in  great  numbers. 
About  10  o'clock  several  discharges  of  artillery  were  heard 
distinctly  in  the  direction  of  the  Angelos  road.     About 


80  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

11.30  we  discovered  our  forces  returning  toward  the  land- 
ing. At  2  p.  m.  the  expedition  arrived  at  the  landing,  hav- 
ing encountered  the  enemy  with  a  field  piece,  which  they 
moved  from  point  to  point,  with  their  horses  attached. 
Our  men  made  three  gallant  charges,  chasing  them  each 
time  about  half  a  mile,  but  they  being  on  fine  horses  would 
keep  out  of  musket  range,  when  they  would  wheel  and  fire 
on  our  men,  killing  several.  Finding  it  impossible  to  cap- 
ture the  gun  the  retreat  was  sounded.  Upon  arriving  at 
the  landing  a  council  of  war  was  held.  It  was  decided  that 
without  horses  for  hauling  a  field  piece  rapidly  it  would  be 
useless  to  make  the  effort  to  capture  the  enemy,  and  the 
forces  embarked. 

Dispatches  being  received  from  San  Diego,  stating  that 
Captain  Merritt  with  forty  men  had  taken  possession  of 
the  town,  Lieutenant  George  Minor,  with  Midshipmen 
Morgan  and  Duvall  and  a  force  of  fifty  men,  were  sent  on 
board  the  Whale  Ship  Magnolia  to  take  passage  to  San 
Diego  to  reinforce  Captain  Merritt.  One  week  after  I 
was  dispatched  in  the  second  cutter  to  ascertain  the  con- 
dition of  affairs  at  San  Diego,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles  by 
sea,  which  I  accomplished  successfully,  making  the  trip 
and  returning  in  four  days,  and  reported  everything  in 
favorable  condition.  We  now  got  under  way  and  sailed 
for  San  Francisco,  where  we  found  the  enemy  operating  in 
the  valley  of  Santa  Clara.  An  expedition  was  at  once 
ordered  to  be  fitted  out,  and  knowing  from  our  sad  expe- 
rience at  San  Pedro  the  want  of  cavalry,  I  was  ordered  in 
our  launch  to  transport  from  the  north  to  the  south  side  of 
the  bay  a  number  of  horses.  It  was  a  difficult  feat,  but  I 
accomplished  it.  My  last  load  of  horses,  six  in  number,  got 
very  restless  and  could  not  be  managed.  I  expected  every 
moment  to  see  them  stamp  holes  in  the  bottom  of  the 
launch,  when  all  hands  would  be  lost.  I  determined  there- 
fore to  jump  them  overboard.  It  was  truly  wonderful  to 
see  the  instinct  of  the  animals.     They  struck  out  for  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  31 

shore,  though  a  mile  or  two  distant.  To  my  great  sur- 
prise we  found  them  all  the  next  morning  safely  on  shore 
near  where  they  landed.  We  now  landed  from  the  ship 
a  force  of  blue  jackets  and  marines,  with  a  field  piece,  ac- 
companied by  the  cavalry,  and  started  in  pursuit  of  the 
enemy. 


Chapter  V 

From  sources  apparently  reliable  we  learned  that  the 
enemy  were  in  force  in  the  neighborhood  of  Santa  Clara 
Mission.  We  made  easy  marches,  coming  to  camp  about 
sunset,  always  sending  some  cavalry  ahead  to  select  a 
camping  ground  and  butcher  beeves  in  readiness  for  our 
arrival.  After  the  fatiguing  march  of  the  day  we  would 
arrive  at  camp  thoroughly  prepared  in  appetite  to  enjoy 
the  California  beef.  The  cattle  grazing  on  the  rich  grasses 
and  wild  oats  of  the  fertile  valleys  were  superbly  fine. 
"Jack  Tar,"  with  his  brother  marines,  would  sit  round  the 
camp  fires  and  roast  his  rib  of  beef  with  as  much  zest  and 
pleasure  as  though  he  were  native  to  the  plains. 

The  second  morning  after  leaving  the  ship  the  courier 
came  in  and  reported  the  enemy  in  camp  in  a  piece  of  red- 
woods up  in  the  hills.  As  it  was  a  rough  road  ascending 
the  hills,  the  artillery  piece  and  the  infantry  were  ordered 
to  keep  in  the  plains,  while  the  cavalry  were  detailed  to 
reconnoitre  and  ascertain  the  exact  locality  and  force  of 
the  enemy.  Being  mounted  myself,  I  obtained  permission 
to  accompany  the  cavalry.  We  were  armed  with  car- 
bines and  revolvers.  At  early  dawn  we  started  on  the 
march.  A  thick  fog  enveloped  the  hillsides,  and  here  oc- 
curred one  of  those  strange  phenomena — an  optical  illu- 
sion. Three  of  us  were  riding  abreast,  somewhat  in  ad- 
vance of  the  column.  Simultaneously  each  of  us  cocked 
and  raised  our  carbines  to  our  shoulders  to  fire  upon  what 
seemed  to  be  a  few  cavalrymen  of  the  enemy  coming 
toward  us  down  the  hill.  The  next  instant  the  fog  cleared 
and  instead  of  the  cavalry  we  found  only  a  clump  of 
bushes!  We  proceeded  up  the  hill,  using  great  caution, 
and  in  silence.     Upon  reaching  the  summit  we  discovered 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  33 

the  camp  of  the  enemy,  just  abandoned.  We  followed 
their  trail  down  into  the  plains  again,  and  soon  rifle  shots 
were  heard  and  our  scouts  came  in  and  reported  the  enemy 
just  ahead  of  us,  in  large  force,  mounted.  We  had  by 
this  time  joined  our  infantry  and  field  piece.  We 
advanced  upon  them,  they  firing  indiscriminately  from 
their  horses,  and  retreating  as  we  advanced.  They  evi- 
dently meant  to  draw  us  on  to  the  open  prairie  beyond, 
where  they  could  maneuver  their  cavalry  to  greater  advan- 
tage. As  we  emerged  from  the  timber  land  the  enemy 
surrounded  us,  and  dismounting  from  their  horses,  were 
completely  hid  by  the  tall  prairie  grass  and  commenced  a 
rapid  fire  upon  our  body  of  men.  We  returned  the  fire, 
aiming  only  at  the  smoke  from  the  discharge  of  their  guns, 
for  neither  men  nor  horses  could  be  seen.  I  now  worked 
the  field  piece  to  great  advantage,  loading  with  grape  and 
canister,  and  trained  the  gun  on  the  point  from  which  came 
the  greatest  discharge  of  the  foe.  The  grape  and  canister 
tearing  through  the  high  grass  would  flush  the  fellows 
from  their  cover  like  a  covey  of  partridges  before  a  fowling 
piece,  when  they  would  mount  their  horses  and  ride  to  a 
more  respectful  distance.  In  this  way  we  carried  on  a  run- 
ning fight  till  we  neared  the  old  Mission  of  Santa  Clara. 
The  occupants,  who  had  crossed  the  mountains  and  taken 
refuge  in  the  old  mission,  came  out  joyfully  to  join  us  in 
the  fight.  Very  soon  the  Californians  were  routed  and 
dispersed  in  all  directions.  We  were  received  with  great 
joy  by  our  countrymen  from  the  East  who  had  crossed  the 
plains  and  the  mountains.  Early  the  next  morning  a 
courier  came  in  from  the  enemy  to  treat  for  peace.  The 
offer  was  accepted,  on  condition  that  they  deliver  up  all 
arms  and  horses  that  had  been  unjustly  taken  from  the 
people  and  that  they  retire  to  their  homes  and  become 
peaceful  citizens.  These  terms  were  accepted,  as  that  dis- 
tant territory  of  Mexico  had  little  in  sympathy  with  the 
government.  The  large  drove  of  horses  captured  were 
driven  into  a  corral  and  we  saw  for  the  first  time  the  dex- 


34  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

terity  with  which  they  used  the  lasso.  Citizens  coming  in 
and  claiming  their  horses,  such  animals  were  immediately 
lassoed  and  turned  over  to  the  owners.  It  is  said  that  the 
California  boy,  as  soon  as  he  can  run  around  the  yard,  uses 
his  lariat  in  catching  chickens,  dogs,  cats,  and  all  the  do- 
mestic animals  for  their  infantile  sport,  as  the  American 
boy  would  play  marbles.  The  guns  were  all  stacked  up 
in  piles,  and  presented  a  motley  appearance  of  ancient 
fowling  pieces  that  would  have  done  credit  to  Falstaff's 
ragged  regiment,  and  were  calculated  to  do  more  harm  to 
the  persons  using  them  than  to  those  against  whom  they 
were  directed.  This  no  doubt  accounted  for  the  fact  that 
only  one  of  our  men  was  wounded  in  the  engagement  of 
the  previous  day.  We  remained  at  the  Mission  of  Santa 
Clara  several  days,  till  all  hostilities  were  quieted,  amusing 
ourselves  hunting  wild  geese  that  covered  the  plains 
around  Santa  Clara  in  such  numbers  that  when  they  rose 
for  flight  they  almost  obscured  the  sun  like  a  cloud.  We 
found  them  excellent  food,  and  took  numbers  of  them  on 
board  the  ship.  A  courier  was  dispatched  to  the  commo- 
dore reporting  the  treaty  made  with  the  Californians  and 
their  quiet  retirement  to  their  homes.  Boats  were  then 
sent  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  we  embarked  our  artil- 
lery piece  and  infantry  forces,  and  returned  to  our  ships, 
the  cavalry  returning  by  land  to  San  Francisco.  Thus 
ended  our  military  operations  against  this  peaceful  people, 
who  cared  more  for  tending  their  flocks  and  herds  and 
sitting  "in  the  shadow  of  their  own  vine  and  fig  tree"  than 
they  did  for  warfare.  General  Fremont  had  reached  the 
Pacific  Coast,  crossing  the  plains  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains with  a  force  of  cavalry  woodsmen  from  the  Western 
country,  and  his  presence  there  had  a  most  beneficial  effect 
in  suppressing  any  disturbances  through  the  interior  while 
the  Navy  garrisoned  the  seaports. 

We  sailed  from  San  Francisco  for  the  harbor  of  Monte- 
rey,  and  on  the  18th  of  March,  1847,  tne  joyful  call  of  the 
boatswain  and  his  mates,  "all  hands  up  anchor  for  home," 


I 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  35 

resounded  through  our  ship.  A  salute  of  thirteen  guns 
was  fired  in  passing  the  Frigate  Independence,  the  flagship 
of  Commodore  Stockton,  who  had  assumed  command  of 
the  Pacific  Squadron.  We  manned  the  rigging  and  gave 
three  hearty  cheers,  and  stood  to  sea. 

After  a  long  and  very  monotonous  voyage  we  came  to 
anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso,  with  several  cases  of 
scurvy  showing  itself  among  our  crew,  the  result  of  living 
without  vegetables.  On  the  24th  day  of  May  we  hoisted 
the  English  flag  at  the  fore  and  the  American  at  the  main 
and  mizzen  in  honor  of  the  birthday  of  Victoria,  Queen 
of  England.  On  the  28th  of  May  Lieutenant  Command- 
ing Neil  M.  Howison  left  the  ship  to  return  to  the  United 
States  by  the  way  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  as  bearer  of 
dispatches  from  Commodore  J.  Biddle  to  the  Government 
at  Washington.  On  the  31st  of  May  we  stood  to  sea  on 
our  homeward  passage.  Off  Cape  Horn  we  encountered 
heavy  gales,  as  usual  off  that  stormy  coast,  and  welcomed 
the  more  moderate  temperature  and  pleasant  sailing  when 
we  reached  the  South  Atlantic. 

Standing  to  the  northward  on  the  21st  of  July  we  ex- 
changed numbers  with  the  U.  S.  Frigate  Columbia  at 
anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro.  We  saluted  the 
broad  pennant  of  Commodore  L.  Rousseau  with  thirteen 
guns,  which  was  returned  with  the  same  number.  We 
anchored  in  this  beautiful  harbor,  and  here  got  the  news 
of  the  surrender  of  Vera  Cruz  to  our  Army  and  Navy; 
also  of  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  where  General  Taylor, 
with  5000  men,  had  been  victorious  over  Santa  Anna  with 
20,000.  On  the  27th  His  Excellency  Henry  A.  Wise,  U. 
S.  Minister  to  Brazil,  visited  the  ship.  We  manned  the 
yards  and  saluted  him  with  seventeen  guns.  On  the  28th 
of  July  we  hove  up  anchor  and  made  sail  for  the  harbor  of 
New  York,  at  which  port  we  arrived  about  the  middle  of 
September,  rejoiced  to  reach  our  native  shores  after  a 
long,  arduous  and  eventful  cruise,  with  successful  duty 
and  service  in  the  Mexican  War. 


Chapter  VI 

The  joy  of  the  home  coming  of  a  sailor  after  years  of 
absence  is  something  that  can  scarcely  be  imagined  by  one 
who  has  never  known  long  absences  from  friends  or  found 
''a  home  on  the  ocean  wave."  In  the  course  of  a  week  we 
were  all  detached  from  our  ship,  where  we  had  passed  over 
four  years,  and  while  happy  in  the  thought  of  reaching 
our  homes,  there  was  pain  in  parting  from  those  with 
whom  we  had  been  associated  as  one  family  for  so 
long  a  time.  Of  course  we  might  hope  to  meet  again, 
but  things,  places,  persons,  surroundings  would  "never  be 
as  they  had  been;"  and  change,  the  universal  change  that 
is  written  on  all  human  affairs,  brought  over  our  hearts 
and  spirits  a  sadness  known  only  to  parting  friends.  Mine 
was  perhaps  the  most  distant  home  to  reach.  Now  began 
my  fears  as  a  sailor  of  the  mode  of  land  travel  by  railroad. 
I  was  possessed  with  the  idea  that  I  might  be  killed  before 
I  could  reach  the  seaboard  of  Georgia,  and  not  until  I 
reached  home  did  I  draw  a  long  and  comfortable  breath! 
Sailors  are  universally  believed  to  be  very  superstitious 
creatures,  and  I  dare  say  as  a  boy  I  had  my  visions  of  "fly- 
ing Dutchmen,"  ghosts,  dreams,  etc.,  but  maturer  years 
have  shattered  these  follies  as  the  baseless  fabric  of  dreams 
and  I  have  learned  to  look  through  Nature  in  all  her  gran- 
deur and  beauty  up  to  Nature's  God !  I  could  only  spend 
a  few  weeks  in  the  home  of  my  childhood,  as  my  class  were 
all  assembled  at  Annapolis  (the  Naval  Academy)  studying 
hard  for  the  coming  examination  in  the  spring.  On  my 
arrival  in  Annapolis  I  was  placed  in  the  room  with  some 
of  my  friends  and  companions  of  the  Pacific  Squadron  who 
had  preceded  me  and  were  applying  themselves  with  all 
diligence  to  their  books.     The  earnestness  with  which  they 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  37 

went  to  work  in  the  evenings  after  lamps  were  lit  gave  me 
serious  alarm  lest  I  should  never  be  able  to  school  myself 
to  such  close  application.  These  roommates,  who  have 
proved  the  friends  of  my  life,  Robert  D.  Minor,  of  the 
grand  old  Commonwealth  of  Virginia;  Robert  C.  Duvall, 
of  the  old  North  State,  and  Abercrombie,  of  Maryland, 
making  the  quartette  of  our  room.  Let  me  introduce  my 
roommates  more  clearly  as  they  stand  reflected  pictures, 
as  it  were,  on  the  walls  of  the  sacred  halls  of  memory! 
Duvall,  or  as  we  called  him,  "Duvy,"  was  the  eldest,  and 
stood  6  feet  3  inches  in  height,  as  noble  and  generous  in 
every  impulse  of  his  true  warm  heart  as  he  was  grand  in 
stature  as  a  man.  He  applied  himself  with  so  much  zeal 
and  closeness  to  his  studies  that  he  was  stricken  down 
with  fever.  His  restless  nights  were  made  miserable  by 
his  endeavor  to  work  the  difficult  problems  of  his  geometry 
lessons  even  in  his  delirium  or  sleep.  He  would  wake 
unrefreshed  in  the  morning,  declaring  "if  he  could  only 
solve  those  problems,  he  thought  he  might  get  well." 
Finally  the  problems  wrere  all  solved  and  he  did  grow 
strong  and  well  again.  Abercrombie,  always  mild  and 
pleasant,  I  see  him  in  my  mind's  eye  rubbing  his  head 
(already  a  little  bald),  vowing  vengeance  against  old 
Chauvenet,  our  professor,  in  mathematics,  for  giving  us 
such  long  and  difficult  lessons  to  try  our  souls.  Bob 
Minor — our  youngest,  jolliest,  happiest  boy!  Quick  to 
learn  and  master  his  lessons,  as  quick  to  laugh  at  those  who 
had  not  been  so  fortunate;  always  first  to  close  his  book, 
with  a  most  triumphant  smile,  and  exclaim,  "Ready  for 
bed !" 

Our  room,  unfortunately,  was  located  at  the  head  of  the 
stairs  on  the  second  floor  of  the  building  known  as  "Rowdy 
Row."  It  was  often  the  pleasure  of  those  for  whom  it  was 
named  to  make  night  hideous  with  their  frolics.  One 
favorite  amusement  of  theirs  was  to  get  a  number  of  32- 
pound  balls  from  the  battery  near  by  and,  taking  them  up 
the  flight  of  stairs  to  the  end  of  the  long  piazza,  roll  them 


38  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

in  quick  succession  the  length  of  the  piazza,  where  they 
would  go  thumping  down  the  steps  with  the  noise  of 
thunder,  rousing  the  sleeping  inmates  of  the  building. 
There  was  no  use  trying  to  hunt  up  the  perpetrators  of 
this  mischievous  performance — they  were  always  "soundly 
sleeping."  Similar  annoyances  were  carried  on  through- 
out by  those  who  were  not  caring  for  the  approaching  ex- 
amination. I  am  glad  to  state,  though,  that  we  had  in 
that  day  none  of  those  disgraceful,  cruel  hazings  that  are 
now  practiced  and  are  so  criminal. 

Upon  the  approach  of  Christmas  I  received  a  box  from 
home — and  herein  I  must  relate  a  hard  joke  on  myself. 
Among  other  things  came  an  enormous  fruit  cake.  Of 
course  I  had  "to  make  merry  with  my  friends"  and  give  a 
Christmas  entertainment.  After  smuggling  in  a  few  bot- 
tles of  wine — for  what  would  the  cake  be  without  the 
accompanying  refreshment? — I  found  I  had  forgotten  the 
all-important  corkscrew  (though  I  had  furnished  a  few 
wine  glasses).  What  was  to  be  done?  We  resorted  to 
the  only  means  to  get  at  the  wine.  Snapping  the  necks 
of  the  bottles  with  a  quick  stroke  of  a  knife  (which  was 
accomplished  dexterously),  our  feast  began.  We  enjoyed 
both  cake  and  wine  "hugely,"  as  our  English  cousins 
would  say,  but  oh,  the  consequences !  Next  morning 
there  was  a  tale  to  be  told.  I — the  host — was  ill,  very  ill. 
I  at  once  dispatched  a  messenger  for  the  surgeon,  fearing 
I  could  not  survive  till  he  came.  I  freely  unbosomed  to 
him  my  violation  of  all  school  discipline,  and  he,  like  a 
true  medical  adviser,  did  not  betray  the  confidence  of  his 
patient.  I  heard  nothing  of  my  secret  and  impromptu 
entertainment,  and  was  much  relieved  in  mind  and  body 
by  the  good  doctor's  visit,  he  assuring  me  that  violent  and 
acute  dyspepsia,  and  not  broken  glass,  which  I  supposed 
I  had  swallowed,  was  the  root  of  the  trouble !  Since  that 
fateful  night  I  have  never  had  a  weakness  for  fruit  cake — 
no  matter  how  black  or  rich — but  I  regret  to  say  I  have 
always  had  a  tendency  to  dyspepsia,  a  reminder  of  youth- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  39 

fill  folly!  After  the  Christmas  holidays  I  applied  myself 
most  earnestly  to  my  books,  and  passed  a  fairly  creditable 
examination — that  is,  in  a  class  of  200  I  passed  number  27. 
This  class  was  a  celebrated  one  and  passed  some  remark- 
able men — men  who  are  now  the  head  of  the  Federal 
Navy;  but  many  of  the  most  gifted  gave  up  their  positions 
and  stood  by  and  were  true  to  their  Southern  homes. 
Among  these  W.  H.  Parker,  who  took  the  first  honor  in 
the  class,  shared  with  Catesby  Jones  of  glorious  memory ! 

From  the  Naval  School  I  was  ordered  to  join  the  Sloop 
of  War  Albany  at  Norfolk.  Norfolk  is  a  famous  old  sea- 
port town,  renowned  for  pretty  girls;  and  being  one  of  the 
principal  Stations,  or  Navy  Yards,  had  always  an  abund- 
ance of  young  Navy  Officers  on  hand.  Our  accomplished 
classmate  Wm.  H.  Parker  here  found  his  bride,  one  of  the 
belles  and  beauties  of  Norfolk.  After  a  lapse  of  many 
years  I  was  very  happy  in  meeting  them  both  at  the  un- 
veiling of  the  statue  to  General  R.  E.  Lee  in  Richmond, 
Virginia,  both  well  preserved  and  happy.  Norfolk  in 
those  old  times  was  very  gay,  and  we,  being  much  elevated 
at  the  insignia  of  passed  midshipmen  on  our  uniforms, 
were  prepared  to  add  to  the  gaiety. 

We  were  some  months  in  fitting  out  the  ship,  and  by 
early  fall  sailed  for  the  West  Indies,  a  delightful  cruise 
through  the  Windward  Islands.  This  cruise,  however,  was 
destined  to  be  of  short  duration.  While  we  were  anchored 
at  Fort  du  France — the  memorable  home  of  Josephine  in 
the  Island  of  Martinique — there  was  a  want  of  harmony 
between  the  lieutenants  and  the  passed  midshipmen  which 
resulted  in  an  order  that  we  should  perform  strictly  the 
duties  of  midshipmen,  such  as  "calling  the  watch,  and 
lighting  the  candle  of  the  lieutenant  who  had  to  go  on 
duty."  It  so  happened  that  the  first  order  was  given  to 
me.  I  declined  to  obey  it,  stating  that  the  duty  had  been 
previously  performed  by  the  quartermasters,  I  considered 
it  a  menial  service,  and  would  not  do  it.  The  lieutenant 
of  the  watch  urged  me  strongly  to  do  it,  or  he  "would 


40  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

have  to  report  me  for  disobedience  of  orders."  I 
replied  that  "I  had  made  up  my  mind  fully  to  perform  no 
menial  duty  and  that  he  was  at  liberty  to  report  me,"  which 
he  did.  I  was  then  summoned  into  the  presence  of  a  very 
irate  gentleman,  Captain  Victor  M.  Randolph,  of  Virginia. 
He  stormed  at  me  violently;  said  he  "would  have  me  court 
martialed  and  dismissed  from  the  service."  I  very  quietly 
told  him  "I  would  not  obey  the  order." 

Thereupon  he  directed  the  lieutenant  to  "suspend  me 
from  duty  and  report  the  case  to  the  first  lieutenant  of  the 
ship  in  the  morning."  The  three  other  passed  midshipmen 
in  like  manner  refused  to  obey  the  order  and  were  also  sus- 
pended, making  a  very  strong  case  of  "mutinous  insub- 
ordination." We  continued  our  cruise  along  the  south  side 
of  San  Domingo  and  Cuba,  stopping  in  at  various  ports, 
which  we,  however,  under  suspension,  were  never  allowed 
to  visit._  This  continued  for  three  months,  when  the  con- 
finement so  affected  our  health  that  the  kind  old  surgeon, 
Dr.  Spotswood,  reported  that  the  "passed  midshipmen 
must  be  permitted  to  visit  the  shore  for  exercise,"  which 
requirement  was  granted  and  our  health  improved.  From 
Cuba  we  ran  down  to  Vera  Cruz,  where  we  met  the  flag- 
ship of  the  squadron,  and  charges  were  preferred  against 
us  without  delay.  The  commodore  ordered  our  ship  im- 
mediately to  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard,  the  rendezvous  of 
the  Gulf  Squadron,  he  following  soon  after.  On  arriving 
at  Pensacola  a  court  martial  was  ordered  for  our  trial. 
Here  at  Pensacola  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  Lieutenant 
Raphael  Semmes,  who  had  just  been  admitted  to  the  bar 
of  Alabama.  He  had  shortly  before  this  obtained  a  leave 
of  absence  from  the  Navy  Department  for  the  purpose  of 
studying  law.  He  little  dreamed  then  the  important  part 
this  knowledge  of  international  law  would  bear  on  his 
future  life,  so  thoroughly  fitting  him  for  his  work  in  after 
years  while  in  command  of  the  world-renowned  Confeder- 
ate States  Steamer  Alabama 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  41 

But  to  return  to  the  court  martial.  He  very  generously 
tendered  his  services  as  counsel  in  our  case.  His  distin- 
guished ability,  however,  was  not  sufficient  to  overcome 
the  precedent  which  custom  had  made  a  law.  The  result 
of  the  trial  was  our  "dismissal  from  the  service  for  wilful 
disobedience  of  orders."  To  show  that  the  sentiment  of 
our  brother  officers  was  with  us,  and  that  they  approved 
our  appreciation  of  our  position  as  officers  in  objecting  to 
doing  menial  duty,  after  the  sentence  of  the  court  one  of 
its  members,  who  resided  in  Pensacola,  gave  us  a  very 
handsome  reception,  inviting  all  friends  to  meet  us  before 
we  departed  for  our  homes. 

I  found  my  way  into  upper  Georgia,  where  my  mother's 
family  were  spending  the  summer  in  the  little  town  of  Ros- 
well.  After  a  rest,  a  friend,  Daniel  Stuart  Elliott,  and  I 
took  a  buggy  and  made  a  tour  of  upper  Georgia,  stopping- 
each  nightfall  at  country  houses,  where  we  enjoyed  some 
rare  fun  and  experiences  with  our  entertainers — I  being 
always  introduced  as  a  "traveled  officer  who  had  seen  ser- 
vice in  California  and  seen  a  great  deal  of  the  outside 
world."  My  narrations  about  the  gold  regions  may  have 
upset  some  quiet  country  homes  and  sent  some  squatters 
out  to  the  "diggins"  across  the  rockies.  One  old  man  in 
particular  became  so  enthused  he  exclaimed,  delightedly, 
"I  am  just  going  to  hitch  up  my  team  an'  take  my  ole 
'oman  and  that  boy  and  gal  [his  children]  and  start  across 
the  plains" — as  though  he  thought  it  a  day's  jaunt  or  a 
May-day  picnic ! 

We  passed  through  the  little  town  of  Dahlonega,  then 
occupied  by  a  rough  set  digging  for  gold,  reported  to  be 
abundant  in  rich  deposits,  and  where  a  mint  had  been 
established.  This  town  is  the  seat  of  a  branch  college  of 
the  State  University,  under  military  discipline,  and  an 
honor  to  Georgia.  From  there  we  went  to  Tallulah 
Falls,  enjoying  the  wild  and  beautiful  scenery.  We  also 
took  in  on  our  trip  the  villages  of  Clarksville  and  Gaines- 
ville.    One  night,  in  the  depths  of  the  country,  we  came 


42  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

upon  an  old  and  humble  hut,  but  it  boasted  an  independent 
proprietor.  He  refused  us  shelter,  said  he  "had  nobody  to 
feed  our  horse,"  etc. ;  whereupon  we  told  him  we  preferred 
attending  to  our  animal  ourselves.  He  then  remarked, 
in  a  surly  way,  "Thar's  the  corn-crib,  go  feed."  We 
obeyed,  and  after  doing  so  went  into  the  cabin.  He  was 
very  sulky,  but  we  determined  to  win  him  over,  or  talk 
him  into  a  good  humor.  After  spinning  him  a  few  sea 
yarns  he  begged  us  to  stay  with  him  some  days,  and  really 
turned  out  to  be  a  pattern  of  hospitality !  His  house  had 
lately  been  visited  and  made  headquarters  for  the  wares  of 
a  clock  peddler.  I  think  there  were  at  least  twenty-five 
or  thirty  clocks  of  the  old-fashioned  striking  kind — no  soft 
cathedral  bell  tones  of  the  present-day  clock!  All  these 
were  wound  up,  ticking  loud,  and  no  two  striking  at  the 
same  time.  If  they  did  not  make  night  hideous,  they  cer- 
tainly made  it  noisy.  The  good  wife  proceeded  to  get 
supper  for  us,  and  after  enjoying  a  cup  of  hot  coffee — not 
made  after  the  French  style — and  a  comfortable  supper  we 
lit  our  cigars  and  drew  round  the  old-fashioned  fireplace, 
and  with  a  fat  pine  knot  to  make  the  evening's  light,  we 
entertained  our  host  and  hostess  with  more  of  my  travels, 
every  word  of  which  they  drank  in  with  evident  delight. 
We  retired  at  a  reasonable  hour — but  not  to  sleep.  The 
busy  clocks,  with  their  ceaseless  ticking  and  striking,  made 
the  night  wild  and  weird.  I  think  I  learned  in  that  long, 
sleepless  night  to  value  the  blessing  of  silence! — and  we 
certainly  had  time  drag  very  heavily  on  our  hands.  We 
made  a  very  early  start  the  next  morning  and  were  glad 
to  find  ourselves  in  a  few  hours  at  the  little  village  of  Ros- 
well,  from  which  we  had  begun  our  jaunt,  again  among 
family  and  friends. 


Chapter  VII 

The  pleasant  little  town  of  Roswell  is  situated  in  Cobb 
County,  and  took  its  name  from  its  founder,  Mr.  Roswell 
King,  a  former  resident  of  Mcintosh  County,  on  the  sea- 
board. Its  society  was  made  up  mostly  of  low  country 
families  of  culture  and  refinement.  The  sisters  of  Captain 
James  D.  Bulloch,  whose  name  is  now  famous  in  history 
as  the  agent  of  the  Confederate  Navy  abroad,  were  great 
belles;  also  Miss  Mary  Lewis,  who  afterwards  became  the 
wife  of  one  of  Georgia's  most  distinguished  physicians, 
Dr.  Wm.  Gaston  Bulloch,  of  Savannah.  I  must  here  pay 
a  passing  tribute  to  this  lady's  grace  on  horseback;  she 
has  always  been  my  ideal  of  an  equestrienne,  and  I 
recall  with  pleasure  our  delightful  rides  together  through 
the  beautiful  region  of  upper  Georgia  that  pleasant  sum- 
mer. Captain  Bulloch  has  made  a  valuable  contribution 
to  history  in  his  able  work,  entitled  "Secret  Service  of  the 
Confederate  Navy  Abroad."  He  further  distinguished 
himself  by  superintending  the  construction  of  the  famous 
War  Steamer  Alabama,  and  his  successful  ruse  in  getting 
her  out  of  English  waters, — but  more  of  that  hereafter. 

The  autumn  found  us  wending  our  way  coastward  and 
homeward.  It  also  found  me  filled  with  restless  discon- 
tent and  longing  for  the  service  in  which  I  had  begun  my 
life  and  to  which  I  was  so  much  attached.  This  I  think 
prompted  my  friends  to  look  forward  with  hoge  to  having 
me  reinstated  (feeling  that  I  had  in  nowise  tarnished  my 
honor  as  an  officer  in  the  United  States  Navy)  to  my  lost 
place.  My  venerable  and  distinguished  relative,  Hon. 
Thos.  Spalding,  of  Sapelo  Island,  was  a  life-long  friend  of 
Hon.  J.  McPherson  Berrien,  Georgia's  distinguished 
lawyer  and  Senator,  though  they  had  in  their  middle  life 


44  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

been  estranged  through  political  differences.  To  him  my 
relative  generously  offered  to  write,  and  took  the  oppor- 
tunity of  referring  to  their  earlier  days,  in  memory  of  which 
he  desired  him  to  do  him  the  favor  of  using  his  influence 
in  having  me  restored  to  the  Navy.  This  letter,  so  well 
worthy  of  publication,  a  copy  of  which  was  sent  to  my 
mother,  I  herewith  insert. 

Hon.  J.  McPherson  Berrien, 

Sir  :  You  will  no  doubt  be  surprised  in  the  relation  we  have  stood 
to  each  other  for  some  years  to  receive  a  letter  from  me, — but  at  sev- 
enty-six years  old  it  is  time  to  sweep  from  my  mind  any  dust  that  has 
been  scattered  over  it.  As  I  owe  to  politics  neither  honors  nor  profits 
in  my  long  life,  it  may  be  but  just  that  I  should  not  be  deprived  by 
politics  of  the  good-will  of  even  one  gentleman. 

John  Kell,  with  three  other  young  gentlemen  from  different  States 
(passed  midshipmen),  have  all  been  dismissed  from  the  service  for  de- 
clining to  light  the  lieutenants  to  or  from  the  ward  room. 

This  was  certainly  a  most  extraordinary  order,  and  I  was  greatly 
surprised,  knowing  the  character  that  John  Kell  in  eight  years'  service 
had  acquired  with  five  different  commanders,  had  not  received  it  smil- 
ingly and  obeyed  it  in  the  same  mood,,  for  such  an  order  could  only 
degrade  him  that  gave,  not  him  that  obeyed  it.  This  I  told  John  Kell 
this  morning  when  I  gave  him  promise  of  this  letter,  and  he  assured 
me  "that  his  refusal  to  obey  originated  solely  in  his  respect  for  what  he 
believed  to  be  his  grade  in  the  Navy."  With  this  impression  on  my 
mind  I  ask  you  to  read  the  evidences  given  on  the  court  martial  of 
these  young  gentlemen,  and  if  they  have  been  wronged,  and  if  a  remedy 
is  within  reach,  you  will  best  know  after  such  examination.  John  Kell 
has  under  five  commanders  been  highly  spoken  of  by  all,  and  I  under- 
stand that  the  other  young  men  stood  well  in  their  several  situations. 
John  Kell's  letters  to  his  mother  and  sisters  for  eight  years  past  have 
been  given  me  for  my  perusal.  They  display  great  ability  as  well  as 
correct  observation  of  all  around  him,  and  would  well  have  borne  pub- 
lication. But  there  is  one  act  of  his  life  which  will  reach  the  feelings 
of  any  father — when  he  entered  the  service  he  applied  a  part  of  his  pay 
to  the  education  of  his  younger  brother. 

In  our  many  years  of  intercourse  there  is  one  circumstance  of  my 
early  life  I  do  not  remember  mentioning  to  you,  the  attachment  of  your 
mother  to  my  Aunt  Hester  Mcintosh,  the  grandmother  of  John  Kell. 
I  remember  that  she  communicated  to  us  your  mother's  death,  and  that 
she  had  watched  over  her  in  her  last  illness ;  she  had  received  from  her 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  45 

some  little  poems  in  manuscript.  The  interest  my  aunt  felt  was  com- 
municated to  my  young  mind,  I  being  a  younger  brother  to  her,  and 
now  after  sixty-six  years  there  remains  upon  my  memory  several  lines 
of  your  mother's  monody,  on  her  brother,  that  fell  with  Montgomery 
at  the  gates  of  Quebec.  There  remains  also  on  my  memory  two  playful 
lines  of  hers  upon  John  Hustace  whom  she  had  met  in  Philadelphia  when 
he  was  the  aide  of  General  Lee.  Hustace  was  the  wittiest,  but  the  vain- 
est young  man  (and  the  most  presumptuous)  in  the  Army. 

"Alexis,  with  grace,  can  toy  a  lady's  fan — 
Has  every  art  to  be  a  beau,  but  none  to  be  the  man." 

The  whole  life  of  this  young  man  shows  the  correct  opinion  your 
mother  had  formed  of  him.     But  my  letter  has  grown  too  long. 

Respectfully  yours, 

Thos.   Spalding. 

Fortified  by  this  letter  I  set  out  for  Washington  City, 
and  immediately  called  upon  Senator  Berrien,  and  was 
received  by  this  grand  gentleman  with  a  hearty  welcome 
and  courtliness  of  manner  which  impressed  me  with 
respect  and  admiration.  After  reading  the  letter  he  ex- 
pressed the  greatest  pleasure  and  satisfaction  in  being  able 
to  accede  to  the  wish  of  his  friend.  He  said  he  would  re- 
view the  proceedings  of  the  court  martial  and  do  all  in  his 
power  for  my  reinstatement.  He  forthwith  took  the  mat- 
ter in  hand.  I  remained  in  Washington  city  some  weeks, 
but  soon  after  my  return  home  received  the  official  infor- 
mation of  my  reinstatement,  with  the  other  passed  mid- 
shipmen, to  our  former  rank  and  position,  losing  a  year's 
pay,  that  being  the  time  we  were  out  of  the  service.  I  at 
once  applied  for  orders  to  sea,  and  was  soon  gratified  with 
instructions  to  proceed  at  once  to  Philadelphia  to  join  the 
United  State  Frigate  Susquehanna,  there  fitting  out  for 
a  cruise  to  the  East  Indies,  bearing  the  broad  pennant  of 
Commodore  Aulick,  with  Captain  Inman  as  his  flag  offi- 
cer. I  left  home  in  the  spring  of  185 1  for  another  long 
and  very  interesting  cruise. 

Upon  passing  through  the  city  of  Charleston,   South 
Carolina,  I  learned  that  the  world-renowned  songstress, 


46  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

''Jenny  Lind,  the  Swedish  Nightingale,"  would  sing  that 
night.  I  remained  over  for  the  purpose  of  hearing  her. 
The  memory  of  her  sweet  voice  has  remained  with  me  ever 
since  as  one  of  the  greatest  musical  privileges  of  my  life. 

The  next  morning  I  took  steamer  for  Wilmington  in  the 
face  of  a  heavy  northeast  gale  of  wind,  and  after  a  boister- 
ous passage  reached  my  destination  in  safety.  Upon  re- 
porting to  the  commodore  at  Philadelphia  he  informed  me 
that  the  Frigate  Susquehanna  had  the  day  before  sailed  for 
Norfolk  to  complete  her  outfit.  He  gave  me  orders  to 
proceed  to  that  point  and  report  for  duty  to  the  com- 
mander, which  I  did.  On  reaching  Norfolk  I  found  the 
officers  all  quartered  on  shore  and  that  it  would  be  a  month 
or  more  before  she  could  get  to  sea.  I  enjoyed  very  much 
meeting  again  my  old  Navy  friends  and  former  compan- 
ions, also  my  lady  friends  at  Norfolk,  from  which  port  we 
sailed  on  the  memorable  cruise  in  the  Albany,  from  which 
ship  I  had  been  court  martialed.  I  took  up  my  lodging 
at  a  boarding  house  on  Portsmouth  Point,  where  a  num- 
ber of  Navy  officers  with  their  families  found  temporary 
homes.  We  enjoyed  social  life  here  very  much  indeed. 
Among  the  boarders  was  a  fine  old  gentleman  from  the 
Eastern  Shore  of  Maryland,  Major  Hall,  of  the  Marine 
Corps.  Passed  Midshipman  Bennett  and  I  roomed  to- 
gether. Daily  as  we  met  at  dinner  the  Major  would  send 
his  decanter  of  wine,  asking  the  pleasure  of  a  glass  of  wine 
with  Bennett  and  myself.  This  we  highly  appreciated, 
but  could  not  return  the  compliment,  being  rather  young 
for  the  privilege  of  keeping  wine  for  our  use  at  table  in  the 
presence  of  ladies.  We  therefore  determined  to  give  the 
Major  a  wine  supper  in  our  room  before  we  sailed.  Ac- 
cordingly, we  laid  in  a  basket  of  champagne  and  some  of 
the  choicest  wines  the  market  of  Norfolk  afforded,  accom- 
panied with  nuts,  raisins,  olives,  cigars,  etc.  We  also 
invited  a  few  officers  to  meet  the  Major.  It  is  pleasant  to 
recall  at  this  day  the  memory  of  that  very  convivial  party 
that  surrounded  our  table,  and  the  tales  told  by  the  genial 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  47 

Major,  our  honored  guest,  who  was  the  personification  of 
the  old  school  gentleman,  for  which  the  Eastern  Shore 
was  so  renowned.  Toward  the  "wee  sma'  hours"  we  es- 
corted the  Major  to  his  room,  not  without  the  assistance 
of  his  good  wife,  however,  who  came  for  him,  his  youthful 
hosts  and  escorts  being  about  as  much  disabled  by  the  fes- 
tivities of  the  evening,  so  jovially  spent,  as  was  the  hon- 
ored guest  himself! 

Youth  has  its  joys  as  well  as  its  follies,  and  what  could 
matter  the  headaches  that  followed  such  lordly  fun — that 
lightened  our  purses  and  our  hearts?  Soon  after  this  royal 
entertainment  we  joined  our  ship  and  set  sail  for  the  Island 
of  Madeira.  We  took  on  board  our  Minister  to  Brazil, 
Mr.  Yancey,  and  his  family  as  guests  of  the  commodore,  y 
We  had  a  pleasant  voyage  to  Madeira,  and  enjoyed  the 
scenery  and  climate  of  that  delightful  island.  Madeira  is 
a  great  health  resort  for  the  English  invalids.  They  have 
added  to  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the  south  side  of 
the  island  by  building  beautiful  homes  and  villas  there. 
This  island  is  world-renowned  for  the  wine  made  there 
that  bears  its  name.  It  is  famous  for  its  convent  and  the 
lovely  lace  work  done  by  the  nuns,  in  both  of  which  the 
officers  invested.  I  laid  in  several  quarter  casks  of  south 
side  Madeira,  which  was  much  enhanced  in  value  by  its 
four-years'  cruise  around  the  world.  Upon  my  arrival  at 
home  I  put  the  wine  in  glass,  and  during  the  Civil  War  our 
faithful  old  carriage  driver  carefully  buried  it,  and  although 
the  old  home  was  often  raided  by  the  enemy,  the  old  negro 
was  faithful  to  his  trust  and  resurrected  and  returned  it 
after  the  war.  A  sale  of  a  portion  of  this  wine  came  in 
good  time  to  replenish  my  empty  pocket  book  at  the  close 
of  the  war.  I  still  retain  a  few  bottles  to  make  merry  on 
state  occasions,  such  as  weddings.  When  I  first  returned 
from  the  China  cruise  in  1855  a  dozen  bottles  of  this  wine 
were  used  at  the  wedding  of  my  cousin,  the  daughter  of 
Commodore  James  McKay  Mcintosh,  and  some  months 
later  at  my  own  wedding.     Some  years  ago  at  the  wed- 


48  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

ding  in  my  own  house  of  a  favorite  niece  a  bottle  of  the 
wine  was  used  at  forty-five  years  of  age,  with  a  bouquet 
and  flavor  unsurpassed.  Some  years  later  it  was  used  to 
drink  to  the  health  and  happiness  of  my  beloved  daughter 
upon  her  marriage. 

But  to  return  to  my  cruise  and  the  beautiful  Island  of 
Madeira.  Horseback  riding  was  a  great  diversion  on  the 
island,  a  peculiar  feature  of  which  was  that  the  hostler 
from  whom  you  hired  the  beast  enjoyed  running  along- 
side of  you  and  occasionally  relieved  the  weariness  of  his 
run  by  swinging  on  to  the  tail  of  the  horse.  The  hostler 
wore  a  remarkable  cap  with  a  keen  pointed  end  sticking 
erect  from  his  head,  the  cap  just  covering  his  scalp,  which 
stuck  so  closely  that  it  must  have  been  kept  on  by  suction. 
The  view  to  which  this  really  historic  ride  led  was  grand 
in  the  extreme.  It  presented  the  precipitous  northern 
side  of  the  island  upon  which  the  waves  of  the  ocean  con- 
tinuously and  wildly  beat  its  even  monotone,  a  contrast 
indeed  to  the  south  side,  which  is  a  garden  of  luxurious 
beauty,  where  rose  geranium  and  other  sweet  plants  (to 
us  exotics)  grow  wild  and  in  great  profusion,  loading  the 
air  with  perfume,  and  the  grape  vine  covers  every  avail- 
able spot.  After  enjoying  our  national  holiday,  July  4, 
on  this  garden  spot  of  Nature,  we  set  sail  for  Rio  Janeiro. 
We  experienced  some  very  rough  weather  on  our  passage, 
and  discovered  our  mainmast  sprung,  which  necessitated 
hoisting  it  out  and  making  proper  repairs.  For  this  pur- 
pose we  obtained  permission  from  the  Brazilian  Govern- 
ment to  go  into  dock,  where  we  were  detained  a  month 
or  two.  Captain  Inman  was  here  detached  from  the  ship 
with  orders  to  return  home,  leaving  the  command  immedi- 
ately to  Commodore  Aulick.  During  our  long  stay  in 
port  we  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  much  of  this  grand 
city,  built  upon  a  magnificent  bay  along  whose  shores  are 
dotted  here  and  there  villages  of  rare  beauty,  adorned  with 
tropical  foliage;  in  the  distance  rise  the  Organ  Mountains, 
remarkable  for  their  tapering  peaks  and  presenting  some 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  49 

of  the  grandest  views  of  any  harbor  in  the  world.  This 
city  is  famous  for  the  beauty  of  its  cathedrals  and  other 
public  buildings.  The  inhabitants  are  largely  foreign, 
especially  French  and  Portuguese.  The  handling  of  cof- 
fee forms  the  principal  part  of  their  trade.  One  of  our 
greatest  pleasures  was  to  ride  along  the  shores  of  this  beau- 
tiful bay  and  visit  the  Botanical  Gardens,  a  few  miles  from 
the  city.  The  walks  of  these  gardens  are  lined  with  colos- 
sal palms  on  either  side,  forming  avenues  of  beauty,  and 
the  gardens  are  filled  with  every  variety  of  rare  plant  and 
shrub  of  the  tropics.  Although  in  latitude  22 °  56'  south, 
the  vast  quantity  of  water  of  the  Southern  Hemisphere 
tempers  the  climate  so  as  to  make  fires  unnecessary,  ex- 
cept for  culinary  purposes,  and  all  the  fruits  of  the  tropics 
grow  profusely  and  Nature  wears  an  aspect  of  wild  luxuri- 
ance as  though  perpetually  basking  in  the  sunshine  and 
smile  of  the  Great  Greator. 

The  plumage  of  the  birds  in  Brazil  is  gorgeous.  The 
variety,  especially  of  the  little  humming  bird,  is  very  won- 
derful. Even  insect  life  is  rainbow  hued,  and  the  beetle  is 
so  rich  and  gemlike  as  often  to  be  set  in  gold  and  worn  as 
jewelry.  The  nuns  in  their  seclusion  work  up  the  brilliant 
feathers  of  the  birds  into  flowers,  rivaling  Nature  itself. 
Among  the  handsomest  of  these  they  imitate  the  varie- 
gated camellia  japonica  and  the  superb  carnation,  both 
among  the  fairest  of  flowers. 


Chapter  VIII 

Under  the  reign  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  the  Empire  of  Brazil 
advanced  rapidly  in  civilization  and  the  fine  arts.  He  in- 
vited to  his  empire  talent  of  every  kind,  and  rewarded  it 
with  magnanimous  liberality.  The  officers  of  our  ship 
had  the  honor  of  a  reception  paid  us  by  the  emperor  and 
empress  upon  their  visit  to  the  Navy  Yard.  The  emperor 
seemed  indifferent  and  ill  at  ease,  but  the  empress  was  pe- 
culiarly graceful  and  charming  in  manner,  saluting  us  with 
smiles  of  recognition.  After  completing  our  repairs  we 
reluctantly  bade  adieu  to  this  beautiful  city  and  made  sail 
for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  on  our  way  to  the  China  Seas, 
or,  as  we  term  it  in  naval  parlance,  for  the  "East  India  Sta- 
tion." Our  run  across  the  South  Atlantic  had  no  remark- 
able features  and  we  arrived  at  Table  Bay  after  a  pleasant 
and  eventless  passage.  The  reception  and  welcome  we 
met  with  there  from  our  "English  cousins"  was  warm  and 
refreshing  after  the  contact  and  intercourse  with  nations  of 
other  tongues.  We  entertained  and  in  return  enjoyed  the 
hospitality  of  the  English  families  sojourning  at  the  Cape. 
There  were  assembled  at  that  time  a  large  number  of 
English  people,  the  soldiers  of  whose  families  were  en- 
gaged in  the  Kaffir  War. 

Like  all  military  stations,  there  was  great  gaiety  and 
mirth,  notwithstanding  the  nearness  to  the  seat  of  war. 
Table  Bay  is  an  open  roadstead  to  the  northward  and 
westward,  and  at  seasons  of  northwesterly  gales  subject 
to  the  sea  swells  of  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean.  Fortun- 
ately, we  did  not  encounter  any  of  these  gales.  The  city 
of  Cape  Town  is  built  in  crescent  shape  around  this  horse- 
shoe harbor,  running  back  to  the  hills  that  rise  and  form 
the   remarkable  Table   Mountain.     Near   Cape   Town   is 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  51 

located  the  celebrated  vineyard  where  the  "Constantia 
wine"  is  made.  Occasionally  we  would  ride  out  to  enjoy 
the  hospitality  of  its  proprietor  and  quaff  that  famous 
wine,  so  exquisite,  but  now  little  known  to  the  wine  mar- 
kets of  the  world. 

After  leaving  the  city  and  its  suburbs  and  crossing  the 
point  of  the  cape  to  Simon  Town,  where  is  located  the 
naval  station  and  a  more  secure  anchorage,  one  passes 
over  deserts  of  sand  over  which  a  wind  called  the  "har- 
mattan"  blows  with  great  force  and  fury,  obliging  one  to 
veil  the  face  to  protect  the  eyes  from  the  refraction  of  the 
sun's  rays  as  well  as  the  sand.  A  remarkable  hostelry  on 
this  lonely  road  attracts  attention,  famous  only  for  its 
name,  however, — "The  Gentle  Shepherd  of  Salisbury 
Plains," — and  we  found  a  good  glass  of  beer  and  cheese 
quite  a  refreshment  and  very  acceptable  after  our  ride. 
From  Table  Bay  we  made  sail  around  the  Cape,  still  shap- 
ing our  course  eastward.  Our  next  harbor  was  that  of 
the  poetic  harbor  of  Mauritius,  said  to  have  been 
the  home  of  "Paul  and  Virginia."  This  tender  love 
story  has  delighted  the  youth  of  many  climes  and 
nations.  Our  first  visit  after  arrival  in  port  was  to 
their  graves,  where  we  gathered  some  flowers  from  the 
tomb  of  this  hero  and  heroine  of  romance,  and  re- 
turned on  board  ship  quite  pleased  with  our  little  jaunt. 
Here  also  we  entertained  many  visitors  on  board.  One 
striking  beauty  among  our  young  lady  visitors  was  a 
Parsee  wearing  in  her  nose  a  magnificent  diamond.  Her 
father,  who  accompanied  her,  was  a  fine-looking  man, 
wearing  a  spotless  turban  of  white  on  his  close-shaved 
head,  and  his  entire  costume  a  revelation  of  neatness.  He 
was  said  to  be  worth  millions  of  pounds  sterling.  The 
island  of  Mauritius  is  remarkable  for  its  rich  production  of 
spices,  among  the  most  beautiful  of  which  is  the  nutmeg 
tree,  growing  very  much  in  size  and  shape  like  an  apple 
tree.  The  nut  is  enclosed  in  a  covering  similar  to  the 
hickory  nut,  and  when  ripe  cracks  open  in  the  same  man- 


52  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

ner,  showing  the  mace  of  commerce  wrapped  around  an 
inner  shell  which  encloses  the  nutmeg.  We  procured 
many  specimens  in  their  half-ripe  state  and  brought  them 
home  in  alcohol  as  beautiful  curios. 

Our  next  port  was  the  very  interesting  Island  of  Cey- 
lon. Before  reaching  the  island  some  amusing  incidents 
occurred  on  board  ship.  While  far  at  sea,  almost  out  of 
sight  of  land,  we  were  boarded  by  small  boats,  conveying 
merchants  of  precious  stones  and  gems.  Many  of  these 
were  frauds  and  cheats  no  doubt  manufactured  of  glass. 
The  junior  officers  invested  largely,  especially  my  friend 
Bennett  (I  will  not  say  how  many  I  purchased),  but  I  was 
one  of  the  fortunate  ones,  for  among  my  stones  was  found 
a  moss  agate  with  an  exquisite  fossil  fern  in  it,  which  was 
beautiful  and  much  admired;  but  some  of  the  juniors  no 
doubt  proved  the  truth  of  the  old  adage,  "all  is  not  gold 
that  glitters." 

After  arriving  in  port,  ready  for  pleasure  of  every  kind, 
Bennett  and  I  visited  the  hotel,  which  was  kept  in  fine 
English  style,  and  had  to  lunch  with  us  an  enthusiastic 
native  of  pleasant  manner  and  deportment.  He  suggested 
a  drive  out  to  the  cinnamon  gardens.  We  ordered  a  con- 
veyance and  invited  him  to  join  us.  He  proved  a  very 
good  guide,  and  pointed  out  to  us  the  various  beauties  of 
the  drive.  One  striking  feature  was  a  grove  of  cocoanut 
trees  through  which  we  drove  for  more  than  a  mile.  Un- 
der these  trees  were  built  numerous  cabins  or  huts,  built 
of  the  cocoanut  tree.  He  told  us  that  the  native  who 
owned  such  a  grove  was  considered  rich.  He  at  once  pos- 
sessed everything  needed  for  comfort.  The  tree  was  his 
building  material;  the  hull  of  the  nut  supplied  his  cooking 
and  household  utensils;  the  oil  was  the  light  for  burning; 
the  fruit  itself  eaten  in  every  stage,  and  the  milk  his 
draught.  His  chairs  or  seats  were  made  from  the  tree  and 
his  roof  thatched  with  the  leaves.  Then  what  a  delicious 
food  the  nut.  Upon  reaching  the  cinnamon  gardens  we 
passed  through  walks  bordered  by  the  fragrant  shrub  from 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  58 

which  the  cinnamon  bark  is  gathered  for  commerce.  In 
these  beautiful  gardens  were  many  rare  plants  of  the  trop- 
ics, and  through  memory  ran  the  old  strain  of  the  grand 
missionary  hymn  of  the  English  Church  so  frequently 
sung  at  home, 

"What  though  spicy  breezes 
Blow  soft  o'er  Ceylon's  isle; 
Though  every  prospect  pleases, 
And  only  man  is  vile." 

We  spent  here  a  most  delightful  afternoon,  and  only 
returned  to  our  ship  with  the  setting  of  the  sun.  Our 
new  friend,  the  guide,  had  evidently  taken  a  fancy  to  us 
and  cordially  invited  us  to  join  him  in  a  shooting  excur- 
sion, stating  that  English  snipe  were  to  be  found  in  great 
numbers  on  the  marshes  of  fresh  water  along  the  quiet 
little  streams.  On  an  appointed  day  we  met  him  on  shore, 
fully  equipped  for  a  shooting  bout.  Getting  into  a  com- 
fortable conveyance  we  drove  a  little  distance  into  the 
interior,  and  upon  reaching  a  beautiful  fresh  water  stream 
we  found  prepared  for  us  a  "float,"  being  two  dugout 
canoes  attached  to  each  other,  with  a  cocoanut  thatched 
roof  overhead  to  protect  us  from  the  sun,  a  platform  upon 
which  were  placed  chairs  for  us  to  be  seated,  a  table  upon 
which  was  a  decanter  of  arack  (a  native  drink),  and  a 
bunch  of  bananas  hanging  from  the  roof.  A  couple  of 
Indian  boys  on  hand  paddled  our  craft  while  we  shot  the 
numerous  water  fowl  as  we  floated  down  the  stream.  This 
was  Oriental  pastime  in  true  Oriental  style !  On  reaching 
the  flats  for  snipe  shooting  we  put  our  boats  to  the  shore 
and  landed.  We  found  snipe  in  plenty,  had  fine  sport 
shooting,  and  carried  a  feast  to  our  messmates.  This  day's 
hunt  proving  so  successful,  it  was  suggested  by  our  new 
friend  that  we  take  an  elephant  hunt  with  him,  but  the 
preparation  for  this,  and  the  distance  to  be  traveled  so  far, 
and  our  time  so  limited,  we  could  not  enjoy  so  great  a 
diversion,  and  most  reluctantly  had  to  forego  the  pleasure. 


54  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

We  witnessed  in  this  port,  however,  the  remarkable  use  of 
the  elephant  as  a  beast  of  burden  in  loading  and  unloading 
the  shipping,  taking  the  place  of  our  portable  steam  engine. 
It  was  truly  wonderful  to  see  the  intelligence  of  these  enor- 
mous creatures,  and  very  amusing,  too.  As  the  bell  rung 
to  cease  work  for  dinner  each  elephant  would  stop  instanter 
and  wait  to  be  led  off  to  his  own  dinner.  Among  the 
curios  I  picked  up  at  this  port  were  two  elephants  carved 
out  of  ebony. 

I  never  see  an  elephant  without  being  reminded  of  an 
incident  of  my  early  boyhood,  showing  the  viciousness  of 
■  the  beast.  In  those  days  of  "long  ago"  the  "old  John 
Robinson  Shows,"  as  they  were  called,  went  through  the 
country  on  foot,  taking  the  public  road.  We  as  children 
went  wild  with  delight.  I  had  a  schoolfellow  and  play- 
mate named  James  Pepper,  a  very  mischievous  youngster. 
We  "took  in"  the  circus  together.  The  keeper  allowed 
us,  under  his  chaperonage,  to  inspect  "Tip,"  the  huge  ele- 
phant, very  closely,  for  of  course  with  boyish  curiosity  we 
were  greatly  interested  in  him.  We  made  friends  with 
Tip  by  giving  him  apples,  peanuts,  or  anything  to  please 
him.  But  James  on  the  sly  gave  him  an  oyster  shell,  which 
was  not  much  to  his  taste !  The  next  day  we  went  again 
to  the  circus,  and  no  sooner  did  Tip  spy  my  friend  James 
than  he  made  at  him  with  a  snort  of  revengeful  anger  hor- 
rible to  witness,  and  but  for  the  timely  interference  of  the 
keeper  would  no  doubt  have  killed  him  on  the  spot !  The 
keeper  in  great  alarm  roared,  "Boy,  what  have  you  done 
to  Tip?"  The  culprit  had  to  acknowledge  his  mischief, 
and  was  charged  "never  to  go  to  another  circus  to  which 
Tip  was  attached,  for  Tip  would  never  forget  or  forgive 
him."  This  little  incident  has  been  told  my  own  children, 
with  the  moral,  "Never  to  be  unkind  to  dumb  creatures," 
making  my  playmate's  name  a  household  word.  I  am 
glad  to  say  when  I  heard  last  of  James  Pepper  he  was  a 
highly  respected  deacon  in  the  Presbyterian  Church,  with 
all  the  mischief  of  his  childhood  flown  with  those  early 
days. 


Chapter  IX 

From  Ceylon  we  set  sail,  or  rather  steamed,  to  the 
Island  of  Penang,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Sumatra. 
This  island,  like  Ceylon,  is  under  the  British  flag,  and  here 
we  met  the  hearty  English  welcome. 

We  remained  here  only  a  few  days,  but  long  enough 
for  a  party  of  us  to  accept  an  invitation  from  our  consul  to 
visit  him  and  spend  the  night  at  his  bungalow  on  the  hills, 
several  hundred  feet  above  the  town.  After  landing  we 
were  first  taken  in  conveyances  peculiar  to  the  island, 
drawn  by  small  but  tough  little  horses,  to  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  when  leaving  the  conveyances  we  were  comfortably 
mounted  on  the  backs  of  similar  small  horses  and  ascended 
a  steep  and  rugged  path.  Our  steeds  were  as  sure-footed 
as  goats,  and  bore  us  safely  up  the  ascent.  Upon  reach- 
ing the  bungalow  we  had  presented  to  us  a  scene  of  luxury 
and  comfort  only  to  be  appreciated  in  the  hot  and  sultry 
clime  of  the  East  Indies.  The  house  was  a  low,  rambling 
structure,  with  spacious  halls  and  verandas,  with  every 
conceivable  form  of  easy  chair,  lounges,  etc.,  made  of 
bamboo  and  rattan.  The  grounds  surrounding  the  house 
were  most  beautifully  laid  out  by  a  tasteful  landscape  gar- 
dener, and  filled  with  rare  and  handsome  shrubs  and  plants. 
The  atmosphere  was  pure  and  bracing,  entirely  different 
from  the  sultry  breezes  below,  where  our  ship  lay  in  port, 
and  from  which  we  had  been  glad  to  escape  for  a  few 
hours.  It  was  a  refreshing,  restful  night  of  enjoyment. 
The  breakfast  next  morning  was  unsurpassed  for  Eastern 
luxury.  The  delicious  fresh  currie  served  up  hot  and 
steaming  in  all  its  perfection,  the  coffee  faultless,  and  all 
the  fruits  of  the  tropics  to  feast  the  eye  for  beauty  and 
add  zest  to  the  appetite.  The  currie  here  prepared  is  a  very 


56  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

different  article,  eaten  fresh,  from  the  powder  we  use  at 
home  as  a  condiment  for  dressing  up  our  stews,  and  must 
be  eaten  in  the  East  Indies  to  be  appreciated.  After 
breakfast  our  ponies  were  brought  to  the  door  and  we  left 
the  hospitable  bungalow.  By  noon  we  were  again  on 
board  the  ship.  Remaining  in  this  port  but  a  day  or  two 
longer,  we  proceeded  on  our  course  to  the  port  of  Singa- 
pore, situated  at  the  extreme  point  of  the  Peninsula  of 
Malacca.  This  port  is  largely  occupied  by  English  mer- 
chants, who  have  their  residences  and  grounds  beautifully 
decorated.  They  were  always  ready  to  entertain  with  lav- 
ish hospitality. 

On  visiting  the  shore  we  noticed  the  stuffed  skins  of  the 
tiger,  famous  on  this  peninsula  for  their  destruction  of  the 
natives,  and  indeed  of  all  persons  who  venture  beyond  the 
thickly-settled  towns  and  villages.  He  is  called  the  "man- 
eating  tiger,"  and  is  a  great  terror  to  all.  The  city  of 
Singapore  is  one  of  great  importance  as  the  trading  place 
of  the  islands  of  the  Malay  Archipelago.  Being  a  free 
port,  the  shipping  of  all  the  East  center  there  in  large 
numbers,  while  the  trade  of  China  makes  an  annual  visit, 
coming  down  the  China  Sea  with  the  northeast  monsoon, 
laying  up  their  junks  at  Singapore  during  the  continu- 
ance of  that  wind,  and  returning  home  with  the  southwest 
monsoon.  The  jungles  of  this  peninsula  are  of  dense 
growth  and  inhabited  by  the  most  ferocious  beasts.  As 
a  sort  of  compensation  of  Nature  their  birds  are  very  beau- 
tiful, with  brilliant,  gorgeous  plumage.  I  purchased  here 
some  rare  specimens,  ready  for  the  taxidermist's  hand. 
Among  the  great  variety  were  two  grand  birds  of  paradise 
and  the  rarer  "harp  bird."  These  birds  I  had  mounted 
and  very  handsomely  set  up  in  glass  cases  in  New  York. 
They  adorned  my  home  till  in  the  fortunes  of  war  they  fell 
into  vandal  hands  and  were  wantonly  destroyed.  We  also 
procured  here  some  handsome  specimens  of  "Malacca 
joint,"  so  highly  prized  as  walking  canes.  Even  at  the 
date  of  which  I  write  the  predominance  of  Chinese  trades- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  57 

men  was  very  marked  in  this  port.  The  climate  of  Singa- 
pore is  very  salubrious,  the  thermometer  seldom  rising- 
above  85  degrees  in  summer  or  lower  than  70  degrees  in 
winter.  The  foliage  of  course  is  beautiful,  for  there  Na- 
ture wears  a  garb  of  evergreen. 

From  Singapore  we  sailed  for  Hong  Kong.  One  re- 
markable feature  of  some  of  these  Eastern  seas  are  the 
schools  of  snakes  through  which  ships  pass.  We  arrived  at 
Hong  Kong",  where  we  met  some  of  our  naval  vessels,  and 
Commodore  Aulick  took  formal  command  of  the  East 
India  Squadron.  Here  again  we  greeted  the  English  flag, 
the  emblem  of  that  great  power  and  nation  of  which  it  is 
truly  said  "the  sun  never  sets  on  its  dominions."  We  had 
now  sailed  over  half  the  circumference  of  the  globe,  and 
after  leaving  Cape  Town  every  port  we  entered  was  a  col- 
ony of  Great  Britain.  This  Island  of  Hong  Kong  was  ceded 
to  Great  Britain  by  the  treaty  of  Canton  in  1841  or  1842, 
and  it  was  indeed  a  great  acquisition,  as  it  gave  to  England 
a  foothold  on  the  very  coast  of  China,  possessing  a  fine 
harbor,  and  where  she  has  quartered  a  fine  garrison.  The 
climate  is  very  healthy  for  this  latitude,  owing  to  its  being 
a  very  rocky  and  barren  soil,  entirely  surrounded  by  salt 
water.  The  body  of  the  water  of  the  Canton  River  (of  which 
it  forms  the  eastern  entrance)  passes  to  the  westward  along 
the  shores  of  Macao.  This  port  of  Hong  Kong  was  a  gay 
and  pleasant  place  to  visit.  There  many  English  families  be- 
longing to  the  garrison  resided;  also  some  of  the  families 
of  American  merchants  located  there.  These  were  all 
very  hospitable  and  entertained  us  handsomely.  My  first 
acquaintance  with  "pigeon  English"  was  a  note  of  invita- 
tion from  one  of  the  American  ladies  to  "tiffin,"  which 
translated  into  our  language  means  a  sumptuous  luncheon. 
We  also  attended  here  a  grand  military  ball  given  by  the 
officers  of  the  garrison.  After  the  festivities  of  the  even- 
ing were  over  and  the  dancing  thoroughly  enjoyed  the 
departing  guests  were  served  with  a  cup  of  hot  beef  tea. 
This  was  a  novelty  to  us,  but  the  most  refreshing  beverage 


58  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

after  the  weariness  consequent  upon  the  evening's  enjoy- 
ment that  I  ever  drank,  and  I  found  one  did  not  have  to 
be  an  invalid  to  appreciate  it. 

From  Hong  Kong  we  crossed  over  to  Macao.  This 
peninsula  was  donated  to  the  Portuguese  in  the  sixteenth 
century  for  assistance  given  by  that  nation  to  the  Chinese 
against  pirates,  who  infested  the  seas  in  that  section,  and 
do  more  or  less  to  the  present  day.  The  harbor  is  an 
open  roadstead  for  large  shipping.  The  trading,  however, 
was  not  very  much  here,  for  the  advantages  offered  by 
Hong  Kong  were  greater.  The  city  of  Macao  is  one  of 
the  oldest  foreign  settlements  in  China,  and  presents  some 
unique  specimens  of  architecture  in  residences  and  public 
buildings,  while  the  grounds  show  taste  and  culture.  There 
is  just  out  of  the  limits  of  the  city  a  beautiful  grotto  where 
the  Poet  Camoens  is  said  to  have  written  his  "Lusiad," 
and  the  spot  is  beautiful  enough  to  have  inspired  a  poet's 
pen.  After  remaining  a  week  or  more  in  this  harbor  we 
went  up  the  Canton  River  as  high  as  Blenheim  Reach,  the 
highest  point  of  anchorage  that  our  ship's  draught  of  water 
would  admit  of  our  going.  We  passed  by  the  Canton 
forts,  more  remarkable  for  their  extent  than  the  strength 
of  their  fortifications.  During  the  war  between  England 
and  China  the  heaviest  of  the  English  ships  anchored  in 
Blenheim  Reach  to  operate  against  the  city  of  Canton, 
which  is  about  eight  miles  from  this  place.  On  the  shores 
of  Blenheim  Reach  is  built  up  a  village  of  some  extent,  the 
houses  of  which  are  constructed  entirely  of  bamboo  canes. 
The  bamboo  grows  here  in  great  abundance  and  to  great 
size.  We  visited  the  city  of  Canton  in  boats,  but  were 
always  armed,  on  account  of  the  river  pirates,  bold 
and  daring,  and  often  dangerous.  Although  it  is  an  old 
and  hackneyed  story  about  China,  it  is  nevertheless  a  true 
and  interesting  one  in  regard  to  their  duck  boats.  The 
peculiar  fittings  or  appliances  for  lowering  down  the  plat- 
forms for  the  ducks  to  descend  into  the  water  for  feeding 
purposes,  at  which  they  perforin  many  pranks  as  they 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  59 

hasten  to  the  shore  along  the  shoal  for  food.  Thus  they 
are  kept  moving  along  the  river  to  the  most  desirable  feed- 
ing grounds,  constantly  changing  from  day  to  day.  These 
creatures  of  the  feathered  tribe  are  so  trained  as  to  know 
the  whistle  of  their  own  boat,  upon  the  sound  of  which 
they  ascend  as  rapidly  as  they  descended,  but  with  a  differ- 
ent motive  power  influencing  them,  for  the  last  one  that 
crosses  the  bridge  or  platform  gets  a  sound  thrashing! 
The  duck  is  indeed  a  feature  of  China.  Hatched  and  bred 
in  great  quantities  on  these  boats,  having  free  feeding 
grounds,  they  are  a  great  source  of  revenue  to  their  own- 
ers, and  are  a  prominent  feature  in  all  the  eating  shops 
(which  are  numerous),  baked  and  hung  up  to  be  served 
out  as  the  purchaser  desires. 

As  we  approached  the  great  city  of  Canton  both  sides 
of  the  river  were  lined  with  boats  on  which  large  families 
of  people  are  reared  and  have  been  for  generations  back, 
who  never  go  on  shore  except  for  special  purposes,  such 
as  marketing,  attending  worship  in  their  temples,  or  bury- 
ing their  dead.  These  boats  are  of  small  dimensions  and 
are  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  necessarily  the  scrubbing 
day  comes  round  very  often,  when  the  children  are  thrown 
overboard  and  given  a  buoy  to  float  upon  until  the  scrub- 
bing is  over  and  the  home  in  order  again. 

The  tea  boats  present  a  striking  appearance  in  their  gay 
coloring  and  gaudy  decorations.  These  boats  are  an- 
chored off  in  the  center  of  the  stream  or  at  convenient 
points  along  the  river.  To  these  boats  the  populace 
resort  in  great  numbers  for  quaffing  their  national  bever- 
age, as  their  more  civilized  contemporaries  would  frequent 
saloons  or  club-rooms.  We  landed  in  that  part  of  the  city 
where  are  built  the  residences  of  European  merchants, 
many  of  them  very  comfortable.  The  men  who  occupy 
them  supply  the  world  with  tea.  The  best-paid  men  in 
this  trade  are  the  tea-tasters,  who  select,  classify,  and  price 
the  teas  tor  the  various  markets.  As  we  pass  these  build- 
ings and  enter  the  Chinese  part  of  the  city  the  streets  are 


60  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

narrow  and  paved.  The  merchants  show  their  goods  in 
the  doorways  of  their  shops  or  on  the  sidewalks  to  desig- 
nate their  occupation.  The  streets  are  filled  with  vendors 
of  all  conceivable  wares.  It  was  by  no  means  rare  to  see 
puppies  and  cats  in  cages,  hung  at  either  end  of  a  pole 
over  the  shoulder  of  the  carrier,  as  unconcernedly  as  chick- 
ens or  game  would  be  hawked  about  the  streets  of  Ameri- 
can towns. 

The  fish  shops  of  China  are  interesting  from  the  great 
variety  they  display.  They  do  not  sell  oysters  fresh  (or 
did  not  on  that  day).  They  kiln-dried  them  on  scaffolds 
and  then  packed  them  away  in  the  dried  state  for  future 
use,  thereby  depriving  the  bivalve  and  the  consumer  of  its 
most  tempting  properties,  hence  they  were  not  appreciated 
by  oyster-eating  Americans. 


Chapter  X 

We  visited  with  a  great  deal  of  interest  and  pleasure 
the  crockery  stores,  with  a  view  to  purchasing  some  of  the 
beautiful  wares.  The  finest  china  is,  of  course,  hand- 
painted,  no  two  pieces  alike,  having  landscapes  of  their 
own  country,  exclusively,  in  the  center  (with  strange  want 
of  perspective),  with  very  handsome  borders  of  birds, 
insects,  butterflies  and  flowers.  It  is  very  rich  and  showy, 
their  coloring  being  always  intense,  and  a  table  set  with 
china  of  this  description  is  very  striking  and  beautiful.  In 
making  a  selection  there  are  no  regular  sets  for  breakfast, 
dinner,  and  tea,  but  you  are  at  liberty  to  select  what  pleases 
your  own  fancy,  thus  making  up  your  own  sets.  The 
breakfast  set  of  which  I  made  choice  was  the  very  old-fash- 
ioned historic  willow  china  in  blue,  to  which  is  attached 
a  very  romantic  legend.  The  legend  runs :  "A  Chinese 
princess  escapes  from  a  window  which  overhangs  the 
water  on  whose  shores  the  willows  grow  and  thrive,  throw- 
ing their  graceful  shadows  on  the  stream  on  whose  placid 
waters  she  floats  away  from  her  home  with  a  plebeian  lover, 
with  woman's  trust  and  faith,  and  'the  love  that  laughs 
at  locksmiths.''  The  plates  and  dishes  are  double  and 
deep,  with  a  little  orifice  for  pouring  in  hot  water  to  keep 
the  breakfast  delightfully  hot  while  eating  it. 

I  took  the  opportunity  of  purchasing  a  very  handsome 
Chinese  punch  bowl  for  my  esteemed  friend  Judge  Berrien, 
which  I  had  the  pleasure  of  sending  him  on  my  return 
home,  and  received  from  him  a  very  beautiful  letter  of 
thanks  and  appreciation.  I  also  purchased  a  very  full  and 
handsome  set  of  china — dinner  and  tea — which  is  still  in 
use  in  my  family,  having  been  buried  during  the  war  for 
safe  keeping!     When  making  the  selection  of  the  blue 


62  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

breakfast  china  the  salesman  or  merchant  surprised  me  by 
putting  one  of  the  dishes  on  the  floor  and  jumping 
with  his  wooden  clogs  upon  it  to  prove  its  strengtn,  pre- 
senting a  laughable  appearance  to  us  who  stood  by.  They 
proved  as  strong  as  he  asserted,  and  half  a  dozen  are 
still  in  existence  after  many  years'  service.  Having  made 
our  purchases  we  sought  the  hotel  in  search  of  a 
dinner,  which  was  served  with  a  variety  of  dishes, 
very  Chinese  in  appearance,  being  mostly  hashes,  but 
very  palatable.  One  in  particular  had  such  very  small 
bones  that  we  accused  the  waiter  with  serving  us  up  a 
"rat  stew."  At  this  he  was  very  indignant,  and  angrily 
protested,  "Chinaman  no  eat  rat;  none  'cept  poor  China- 
man, low-down  Chinaman."  The  cat  and  puppy  dishes, 
however,  he  did  not  deny;  said  they  "were  good,  but  no 
serve  Mellican  man  'cept  he  want  'em !" 

Had  I  been  served  with  a  "rat  stew"  it  would  have  been 
a  "righteous  retribution"  on  me  for  one  of  the  frolics  of 
my  early  boyhood !  Our  old  carriage  driver,  "Daddy 
Jim,"  my  father's  body  servant,  who  used  to  drive  him  in 
his  gig  as  he  went  the  rounds  of  the  courts  on  his  circuit, 
was  also  a  very  fancy  cook,  and  loved  his  own  dishes.  He 
was  very  devoted  to  his  young  master  and  would  some- 
times save  choice  morsels  for  me  from  his  supper  the  night 
before.  When  I  went  hunting  I  would  bring  him  in  rab- 
bit or  squirrel,  as  my  game  might  chance  to  be;  but  one 
day,  in  a  spirit  of  mischief  and  fun,  I  played  a  dreadful 
trick  on  him.  The  rats  that  infested  the  rice  barn  and  fed 
on  the  rice  were  very  large  and  fat.  I  shot  two  or  three 
of  them  and  prepared  them  invitingly  for  the  pot  or  sauce- 
pan, curtailing  their  suspicious  tails,  and  they  looked  for 
all  the  world  like  squirrels.  I  presented  them  to  "Daddy 
Jim"  for  his  supper;  he  was  delighted,  said  "he  would  cook 
them  nice,  and  save  one  for  my  breakfast."  The  next 
morning  the  old  man  smacked  his  lips  and  told  me  how 
good  and  juicy  they  were,  and  he  would  bring  mine  to  me. 
I  laughed  and  said,  "Daddy  Jim,  I  fooled  you;  they  were 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  63 

barn  rats."  Such  a  look  of  disgust  and  nausea  came  over 
his  face,  and  he  shamed  me  so  that  I  had  to  run  out  of  his 
way,  but  he  soon  forgave  me,  with  his  big  and  loving  heart, 
and  to  the  day  of  his  death  was  fond  and  faithful.  Peace 
to  his  memory ! 

The  American  merchants  in  China  invited  us  to  their 
houses,  and  we  were  pleased  at  the  opportunity  offered  us 
of  witnessing  the  mode  of  classifying  the  teas  by  the 
tea-tasters.  They  would  place  a  sample  of  each  kind 
of  tea  in  cups,  pour  on  the  boiling  water,  cover 
closely,  and  allow  it  to  draw  for  a  few  minutes  only, 
when  they  would  be  able  to  distinguish  by  their  expe- 
rienced taste  the  exact  quality  of  the  tea  and  deter- 
mine the  markets  to  which  they  should  go.  My  sec- 
ond visit  to  the  city  was  devoted  to  the  purchase  of  silks 
and  dress  goods,  including  beautiful  Canton  crape  shawls, 
rich  in  color  and  exquisite  in  embroidery.  There  were 
also  in  this  market  lovely  dress  goods  made  of  the  fibre 
of  the  pineapple,  called  "penia  cloth."  Of  this  fine  fabric 
handkerchiefs  and  various  things  were  made,  and  the  em- 
broidery on  them  was  marvelous  for  its  intricate  needle- 
work. Our  collections,  of  course,  were  only  meant  for 
gifts  upon  our  return  home  as  mementoes  to  our  families 
and  friends  of  our  sojourn  in  these  distant  lands.  I  must 
not  forget  to  mention  their  hand-carved  ivory  chessmen 
and  sets  of  backgammon  and  the  unsurpassed  lacquer  ware 
in  all  designs.  Upon  this  lacquer  are  represented  usually 
their  national  emblems,  the  stork  and  the  turtle. 

While  at  anchor  in  the  Blenheim  Reach  we  were  visited 
by  an  American  colporteur,  an  intelligent  man,  who  ap- 
peared earnest  in  his  work  of  disseminating  the  Gospel  and 
teachings  of  religion  in  the  form  of  tracts  translated  into 
their  language.  Through  his  representation  of  the  beauty 
of  the  country  and  small  villages  my  friend,  Dr.  Charles  F. 
Fahs,  assistant  surgeon  of  the  ship,  and  myself  were  in- 
duced to  accompany  him  on  one  of  his  trips. 


64  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Getting-  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats  for  the  trip,  we  were 
landed  at  a  point  on  the  river,  and  taking  the  embankment 
which  was  thrown  up  as  a  foot-path  through  the  marsh  we 
passed  through  little  hamlets  dotted  over  this  marsh  of 
luxurious  growth.  After  reaching  the  third  hamlet  we 
approached  rather  a  large  building  with  a  single  hall.  This 
the  colporteur  pointed  out  to  us  as  one  of  their  "ancestral 
halls,"  where  their  children  were  taught.  The  doors  being 
open  and  the  building  unoccupied  at  the  time,  we  took  the 
liberty  of  going  in,  and  were  remarking  on  some  charac- 
ters on  the  wall  when  a  querulous  old  Chinaman  entered 
and  asked  our  business  there.  The  colporteur,  who  spoke 
Chinese,  replied  that  we  were  admiring  their  ancient  build- 
ing and  the  characters  on  the  walls.  It  was  easy  to  see  it 
was  his  intention  to  dispute  our  right  to  be  there,  and  his 
loud  talking  soon  drew  other  Chinamen,  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes the  hall  was  filled  with  an  excited  crowd.  Our 
acquaintance,  the  colporteur,  had  his  patience  and  endur- 
ance put  to  the  test.  Never  losing  his  patience  or  temper, 
he  replied  to  all  they  said  with  coolness  and  decision.  The 
doctor  and  I  being  only  "lookers  on"  saw  that  a  serious 
row  was  pending,  though  we  did  not  know  exactly  what 
we  had  done  to  bring  it  about.  The  colporteur  suggested 
(in  an  aside  to  us)  that  we  take  our  departure  with  all  the 
coolness  and  indifference  we  could  assume,  as  any  appear- 
ance of  fear  might  lead  to  our  being  murdered  by  them, 
and  I  verily  think  it  would !  We  withdrew,  leisurely  ob- 
serving the  beauty  of  the  streets  and  the  quaintness  of  the 
buildings  we  passed  till  we  reached  the  outskirts  of  the 
village,  when  the  colporteur  begged  that  we  accelerate  our 
pace,  as  he  said  had  one  of  those  infuriated  people  thrown 
a  stone  at  us  we  would  not  have  escaped  with  our  lives;  so 
we  made  "double-quick"  time  back  to  the  landing  and 
made  signal  for  our  boat,  greatly  relieved  to  reach  the  ship 
in  safety,  and  unstoned.  We  could  not  go  with  the  good 
man  again  on  his  rounds,  not  being  willing  to  extend  his 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  G5 

good  work  or  even  to  "take  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven  by 
violence,"  at  least  the  violence  of  a  Chinese  heathen  mob ! 
We  had  now  remained  several  weeks  in  Blenheim 
Reach,  and  many  of  our  men  were  taken  down  with  fever. 
The  weather  was  intensely  hot,  especially  the  nights.  All 
hands  were  seeking  the  spar  deck,  where  only  the  awning 
kept  off  the  night  air,  and  with  a  Chinese  mat  to  lie  upon, 
and  a  bamboo  pillow,  we  passed  the  nights  in  search  of 
comfort,  regardless  of  health.  The  surgeon  advised  that 
the  ship  be  taken  down  to  salt  water,  which  was  done  as  a 
health  motive.  We  steamed  down  to  Hong  Kong,  our 
former  anchorage,  where  we  greatly  enjoyed  the  sea 
breezes.  Our  next  move  was  to  Shanghai,  higher  up  the 
coast  some  hundred  miles,  situated  on  the  Woosing  River, 
about  fourteen  miles  from  the  sea.  This  city  is  one  of  the 
important  entrepot  of  the  commerce  between  the  north  and 
south  provinces  of  China.  It  also  carried  on  quite  an  im- 
portant foreign  trade.  Many  of  the  foreign  missions  were 
established  here.  The  Episcopal  Bishop  of  China,  Rev. 
Dr.  Boone,  resided  here,  and  I  found  in  his  lovely  wife  a 
typical  Southern  woman,  a  sister  of  the  beloved  bishop  of 
my  native  State,  Rt.  Rev.  Stephen  Elliott.  I  was  quite 
an  invalid  from  the  enervating  climate,  and  they  kindly 
invited  me  to  become  an  inmate  of  their  home  till  my 
health  should  be  restored.  Bishop  Boone  had  studied 
medicine  to  aid  him  in  his  missionary  work.  He  advised 
me  to  put  aside  all  nauseous  drugs  and  trust  to  the  change 
to  home  life.  There  I  enjoyed  the  nice  Southern  dishes 
and  everything  was  done  for  my  comfort.  My  enjoyment 
of  their  true  Southern  hospitality  soon  recruited  my 
health.  Bishop  Boone  was  an  ardent  laborer  in  his  chosen 
work.  He  established  a  very  successful  mission  school, 
and  his  long  study  of  the  Chinese  language  and  character 
eminently  fitted  him  for  his  life-work.  The  mission  and 
foreign  residences  were  situated  outside  the  city,  on  the 
banks  of  a  river,  in  a  beautiful  grove.  The  city  of  Shang- 
hai is  a  walled  city  with  narrow  streets  not  remarkable  for 


66  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

cleanliness,  but  in  keeping  with  all  other  Chinese  towns  I 
have  ever  visited.  At  this  time  the  city  was  in  possession 
of  the  Taiping  Wang  party,  insurgents  against  the  Impe- 
rial Government.  This  party  was  commanded  by  a  dash- 
ing young  general,  who  took  a  fancy  to  the  officers  of  our 
ship.  I  was  one  of  a  large  party  invited  by  him  to  go  over 
the  city  sight-seeing.  Among  this  party  was  my  old 
friend  Lieutenant  George  H.  Cooper,  or,  as  he  was  known 
to  his  intimates,  "Jade  Cooper."  Jack  had  with  him  a 
favorite  little  Scotch  terrier  named  "Jerry."  Jerry  was 
his  master's  shadow,  and  was  at  his  heels  on  this  "sight- 
seeing" trip.  In  passing  through  the  narrow  streets  and 
seeing,  as  Jerry  no  doubt  thought,  the  most  outlandish 
sights  and  people  he  had  ever  seen,  he  got  separated  from 
us  (or  perhaps  he  was  enticed  away,  with  a  view  to  mak- 
ing a  stew  of  him, — as  he  was  fat  and  fine, — by  some 
hungry  Chinaman).  The  commander-in-chief  offered  a 
large  reward  for  Jerry,  but  he  could  not  be  found  at  that 
time.  After  the  return  of  the  squadron  to  the  United 
States,  Lieutenant  Cooper  was  walking  in  the  streets  of 
Norfolk  one  day,  when  Jerry  came  running  up  to  him  with 
expressions  of  glad  recognition  and  delight.  It  was  ascer- 
tained that  the  Chinese  general,  true  to  his  promise,  had 
looked  up  Jerry  and  put  him  in  the  charge  of  a  friend  of 
Lieutenant  Cooper,  who  brought  him  safely  home  in  the 
next  ship  returning  to  the  United  States. 

While  in  Shanghai  we  were  invited  by  theAmerican  Con- 
sul to  a  tea-party  at  his  residence,  where  we  were  served 
with  several  varieties  of  tea.  Among  these  teas  was  one 
of  peculiar  value,  bringing  five  dollars  per  pound  in  that 
market.  Not  knowing  this,  we  gave  preference  to  a  very 
ordinary  tea,  costing  there  from  twenty  to  thirty  cents  per 
pound.  This  fact  perhaps  proved  that  the  cheaper  tea  was 
the  tea  to  which  we  were  most  accustomed  in  America, 
and  that  the  finer  quality  of  tea  needed  to  have  one's  palate 
cultivated  to  appreciation  of  it. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  G7 

The  commodore  having  Mr.  McLane,  U.  S.  Minister 
to  China,  on  board,  gathered  all  the  information  he  could 
in  regard  to  reaching  the  city  of  Nankin,  which  was  then 
occupied  by  the  Taiping  Wang  party,  and  the  residence 
of  Taiping  Wang  himself,  with  whom  Mr.  McLane  had 
instructions  from  our  Government  to  establish  a  commer- 
cial treaty.  Having  no  chart  of  the  river  the  commodore 
chartered  a  light  draught,  but  powerful,  river  steamer  to 
go  ahead  of  our  ship  and  take  soundings  as  we  proceeded 
up  the  river.  We  left  Shanghai  with  the  little  steamer 
ahead  of  us  with  a  good  leadsman,  and  one  of  our  officers 
in  charge,  and  thus  made  our  way  up  the  Yangtse  Kiang, 
or  Yellow  River,  a  bold  and  navigable  stream.  We  found 
no  difficulty  in  the  depth  of  water,  and  went  up  to  the  city 
of  Nankin,  some  ninety  miles  distant,  passing  through  a 
rich  and  fertile  valley  properly  termed  the  Granary  of 
China.  All  of  this  section  of  the  country  was  then  in  the 
possession  of  the  revolutionists,  or  "Taiping  Wang"  party. 
As  we  approached  the  city  we  were  boarded  by  an  officer 
from  one  of  their  vessels  of  war  to  ascertain  our  mission 
and  the  cause  of  our  presence  there.  Upon  being  informed 
that  we  had  the  American  Minister  on  board  we  were 
allowed  to  pass  without  detention,  and  came  to  anchor 
off  the  city.  Here  we  were  again  visited  by  officials,  but 
Mr.  McLane  failed  to  obtain  an  interview  or  in  any  way 
to  effect  a  treaty  with  the  insurgents  in  power.  Taiping 
Wang  was  educated  at  the  mission  school  in  Shanghai, 
and  there  obtained  sufficient  knowledge  of  the  Christian 
religion  to  pervert  it !  He  boldly  claimed  to  be  the 
younger  brother  of  Jesus  Christ.  He  was  without  doubt 
a  man  of  strength  and  power  in  his  way,  and  influenced 
his  people  to  proclaim  him  a  divine  being,  and  to  worship 
him  as  such.  This  fanaticism  spread  like  wildfire  over  the 
southern  part  of  the  Chinese  Empire.  He  took  up  his 
quarters  with  great  wisdom  at  Nankin,  the  capital  of  the 
old  Wing  Dynasty,  and  the  center  of  the  Granary  of  China. 
His  adherents  filled  the  valley  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang.    One 


68  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

of  his  most  binding  obligations  on  his  soldiers  was  that 
they  should  absent  themselves  from  their  families  and  live 
separated  till  his  dynasty  was  established. 

This  was  the  condition  of  affairs  when  we  visited  Nan- 
kin, and  Mr.  McLane  failing  to  obtain  an  interview  or 
effect  a  treaty,  the  officers  were  allowed  to  visit  the  shore. 
During  our  stay  many  of  their  high  officials  "dined  and 
wined"  with  us.  They  claimed  the  brotherhood  of  Chris- 
tians, and  observed  strictly  the  asking  of  a  blessing  before 
meals,  and  other  religious  rites.  This  friendly  intercourse 
was  certainly  most  fortunate  for  us,  as  the  little  episode  I 
will  relate  will  prove. 

One  beautiful  morning  Dr.  Fahs,  Midshipman  Hawley, 
and  I,  viewing  the  far-famed  Porcelain  Tower  from  a  dis- 
tance, and  obtaining  permission  to  leave  the  ship,  armed 
only  with  umbrellas,  taking  with  us  our  Chinese  servant 
boy  as  interpreter,  made  the  best  of  our  way  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  tower,  bent  on  a  visit  to  it.  The  tower  is  out- 
side of  the  walls  and  west  of  the  city.  We  attempted  to 
shorten  our  walk  by  entering  the  gates  and  passing 
through  the  city,  but  to  our  surprise  and  chagrin  we  were 
accosted  by  a  Chinese  soldier  who  forbade  our  doing  so ! 
We  were  determined  not  to  be  discouraged  by  this  rebuff, 
and  followed  the  walls  on  the  outside  and  made  an  attempt 
to  enter  at  the  next  gate.  Failing  in  this  as  we  did  in 
our  first  attempt,  we  decided  to  walk  outside  around  the 
city  till  we  reached  the  tower.  Hoisting  our  umbrellas 
we  started  off  at  a  quick  pace,  knowing  the  great  distance 
we  had  to  traverse.  On  the  way  we  would  occasionally 
pass  a  Chinese  hut  or  cottage,  and  apparently  alarm  the 
occupants,  but  explaining  through  our  interpreter  that  we 
were  only  harmless  tourists  desirous  of  seeing  the  tower, 
some  would  generously  offer  us  a  cup  of  tea,  which  they 
always  had  on  the  little  charcoal  fire,  and  which  was  used 
without  sugar  or  milk.  These  little  cups  of  tea  were  ex- 
ceedingly refreshing;   drank  hot,   they  no  doubt   did   us 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  69 

more  good  than  a  draught  of  cold  water  would  have  done, 
and  acted  more  beneficially  upon  our  weariness. 

After  a  long  morning's  walk  we  approached  the  object 
of  our  desire.  We  beheld  the  grand  tower  looming  up 
high  above  everything  else  and  situated  outside  the  city 
walls,  but  enclosed  in  a  wall  of  its  own,  with  a  village  at  its 
base.  As  we  approached  the  gate  we  noticed  a  formidable 
looking  little  field  piece  protruding  through  a  porthole 
just  over  the  gateway.  To  our  delight  there  was  apparently 
no  sentinel  on  post,  and  we  boldly  entered.  We  had 
passed  some  distance  up  the  street,  which  was  wide  and 
nicely  paved,  before  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  discov- 
ered us.  When  they  did,  such  surprise,  such  jabbering 
and  gesticulating  as  was  carried  on  by  these  natives  is 
more  easily  imagined  than  described !  However,  we  took 
little  notice  of  them,  being  bent  upon  our  visit  to  the  tower, 
the  base  of  which  was  now  plainly  visible.  After  scramb- 
ling over  rocks  and  the  mutilated  parts  of  this  grand  struc- 
ture we  entered  the  defaced  portal  and  witnessed  the  dese- 
cration that  had  been  worked  by  fire  and  chisel  in  the 
hands  of  the  vandal  insurgents,  professing  to  be  earnest 
followers  of  the  younger  brother  of  Our  Saviour. 

The  grand  stairway  that  had  led  to  the  summit  of  this 
tower  had  been  burned  out,  leaving  only  the  shell.  The 
sculpture  in  bas-relief  ornamenting  the  base  of  the  build- 
ing and  representing  their  gods  were  special  objects  of 
disfavor,  the  Christians — as  they  called  themselves — 
claiming  it  to  be  idolatrous,  had  destroyed  them  effectu- 
ally. We  procured  many  of  the  broken  fragments  as 
specimens,  among  which  was  the  remarkable  porcelain, 
highly  glazed  and  green  in  color,  which  had  resisted  the 
action  of  atmosphere  and  weather  for  centuries,  the  tower 
having  been  built  in  1411.  It  was  octagonal,  about  260 
feet  high,  nine  stories  of  equal  height,  each  decorated  with 
cornice  and  covered  with  roof  of  green  tiling,  the  roof 
overhanging,  as  do  all  Chinese  roofs  of  temples  and  public 
buildings.     On  the  corners  of  each  roof  were  bells  which 


70  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

swayed  and  rang  out  sweetly  with  every  passing  breeze. 
The  pinnacle  of  the  tower  was  ornamented  with  a  large 
golden  ball.  We  were  told  that  the  interior  had  contained 
apartments  of  great  beauty,  elaborately  gilded  and  other- 
wise ornamented,  but  the  fire  fiend  had  done  its  work 
before  our  visit.  We  could  only  imagine  what  its  beauty 
had  been,  and  deplore  the  fanaticism  that  could  destroy 
such  grandeur.  I  believe  I  have  not  mentioned  its  pecu- 
liar name,  which  rendered  into  English  means  "Recom- 
pensing Favor  Monastery."  Its  cost  is  said  to  have  been 
$4,000,000. 

The  staring  crowd  now  began  to  surround  us  in  such 
numbers  that  our  Chinese  boy  told  us  they  were  getting 
very  much  incensed  and  excited,  and  urged  our  leaving. 
We  told  him  to  ask  the  most  prominent  member  of  the 
mob  if  he  objected  to  our  taking  the  broken  specimens 
we  had,  and  we  began  to  throw  them  down;  but  he  said 
"it  was  not  that  at  all,  we  might  take  all  we  wished,  but 
we  had  no  business  there."  We  then  said  we  would  leave 
at  once,  and  began  retracing  our  steps  to  the  broad  street 
and  towards  the  gate  through  which  we  had  entered.  We 
were  followed  by  an  immense  crowd,  gesticulating  vio- 
lently and  wildly  jabbering,  as  only  a  Chinese  rabble  can, 
but  we  took  no  notice  of  it.  In  a  few  minutes,  to  our  sur- 
prise and  annoyance,  we  saw  a  company  of  lancers  form 
themselves  across  the  street  to  stop  our  further  progress. 
As  we  approached,  the  company  dropped  their  lances  in 
our  very  faces,  and  the  commanding  officer  drew  his 
double  swords  and  went  through  some  contortions  of  the 
body  and  cuttings  and  slashings  of  swords  peculiar  only 
to  Chinese  warfare.  We  determined  not  to  be  intimi- 
dated by  this  demonstration,  and  quietly  took  our  umbrel- 
las and  shoved  the  lances  one  side.  This  so  nonplused 
the  officer  that  he  instantly  ordered  the  gates  closed. 

We  were  at  our  wits'  end  to  know  what  to  do  next !  We 
saw  them  rush  to  close  in  upon  us,  and  bringing  our  poor 
frightened  interpreter  to  the  front  we  demanded  that  they 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  71 

"open  the  gates,  as  we  must  be  on  board  our  ship  at  a  cer- 
tain hour;  that  we  were  in  no  way  violating  their  laws,  com- 
ing ashore  only  to  see  their  grand  tower."  The  officer  re- 
plied he  had  "orders  to  stop  us,  but  he  would  take  us  to  the 
commanding  officer  of  the  village."  He  thereupon  es- 
corted us  to  a  formidable  structure,  where  he  said  that 
officer  "held  his  court."  As  we  entered  through  a  court- 
yard we  were  no  little  shocked  to  see  the  bloody  heads  of 
several  unfortunate  Chinamen  hung  up  in  cages  or  baskets 
around  this  court,  a  glance  at  which  completely  demor- 
alized our  Chinese  boy.  His  transition  was  horrible.  His 
hair  seemed  to  stand  up  on  his  head,  his  eyes  became  sud- 
denly bloodshot,  and  he  presented  a  most  pitiable  object 
of  fright  and  despair. 

From  this  courtyard  we  were  introduced  into  a  large 
hall  in  which  was  an  elevated  platform  with  benches 
around  it,  upon  which  we  were  told  to  "be  seated,"  to 
await  the  coming  of  the  official.  The  long  delay  in  his 
coming  seemed  to  be  studied  to  impress  us  the  more  with 
the  gravity  of  the  situation.  At  last  he  made  his  appear- 
ance, and  it  was  so  grotesque  as  almost  to  make  us  laugh 
outright.  He  was  a  large,  finely-built  Chinaman,  with  a 
flowing  robe  on  him  of  rich  blue  silk,  and  upon  his  head  he 
wore  a  helmet,  and  on  top  of  the  helmet  was  a  good-sized 
paper  or  pasteboard  gilded  horse.  Doubtless  this  was  to 
designate  him  as  belonging  to  the  cavalry!  Before  enter- 
ing into  any  explanation  he  required  his  secretary,  who 
accompanied  him,  to  write  in  a  book  describing  the  per- 
sonal appearance  of  each  one  of  us.  We  were  thoroughly 
worn  out  with  this  delay,  and  growing  very  impatient.  We 
required  our  boy  to  tell  him  "we  were  compelled  to  be  on 
board  our  ship  at  sunset."  This  did  not  seem  to  hurry 
matters  at  all.  His  faithful  secretary  continued  industri- 
ously "writing  us  up."  After  a  little  we  suggested  that 
"he  would  have  to  furnish  horses  for  our  return."  He  con- 
descended to  reply  that  "there  were  no  horses  at  hand," 
but  preserved  a  very  dignified  and  commanding  attitude 


72  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

towards  us.  After  his  secretary  got  through  he  informed 
us  "that  he  would  send  us  through  the  city  to  be  inter- 
viewed by  the  Eastern  King,"  whom  we  learned  afterwards 
filled  the  position  of  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs.  He  said 
he  would  send  an  officer  to  conduct  us  to  the  king.  We 
were  pleased  at  this  suggestion,  as  we  thought  we  would 
accomplish  another  wish  we  had,  to  see  the  interior  of  the 
the  city.  We  bowed  ourselves  out  of  his  presence,  left,  and 
soon  after  entered  the  city  gates.  We  were  impressed  with 
the  cleanliness  of  the  streets  and  the  superiority  of  the 
buildings  to  most  of  the  Chinese  cities  we  had  seen.  We 
found  that  this  portion  of  the  city  was  the  residence  of  roy- 
alty during  the  Wing  dynasty  and  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  city  by  a  wall.  It  was  now  occupied  exclusively  by 
women  separated  from  their  husbands  by  the  vows  they 
had  taken  before  enlisting  for  the  war.  The  rush  of  these 
creatures  to  examine  the  "outside  barbarians,"  and  their 
scrutiny  of  our  clothes,  the  quality  and  quantity  and  bright- 
ness of  our  buttons,  came  nearer  demoralizing  us  than  the 
brandishing  swords  of  the  captain  of  the  lancers.  The 
noisy  jabbering  of  these  women  was  really  fearful,  and  we 
dared  not  show  the  "white  feather,"  for  it  is  well  known 
that  any  show  of  fear  is  fatal  to  one  who  falls  into  their 
uncivilized  hands.  Upon  having  the  gates  closed  upon  us 
and  separating  us  from  these  women  we  drew  a  long  breath 
of  relief!  Under  the  guidance  of  our  official  escort  we 
wended  our  way  to  the  residence  of  the  Eastern  King. 
After  walking  for  some  distance  through  the  business  part 
of  the  city  we  were  brought  to  a  halt  before  a  building  more 
pretentious  than  the  surrounding  ones.  Our  escort  now 
attempted  to  give  us  instructions  through  our  interpreter 
as  to  how  we  must  conduct  ourselves  before  "His  Royal 
Highness,  the  Eastern  King."  The  prominent  feature  of 
this  ceremony  was  that  "we  should  fall  down  on  our  knees 
before  him  and  prostrate  ourselves."  This  we  protested 
against,  and  positively  refused  to  do.  We  told  him  "we 
never  knelt  or  prostrated  ourselves  to  any  living  man;  that 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  73 

we  only  knelt  to  God;  that  it  was  against  our  religion  to 
do  this,  and  if  they  were  Christians  they  should  not  do  it 
either."  At  this  he  became  very  loud  in  his  demands,  said 
we  "had  to  do  it;  it  was  a  custom  and  the  law  of  their 
country."  We  told  him  "it  was  no  use  to  argue  the  mat- 
ter, we  would  not  do  it."  He  considered  a  moment,  and 
then  said  "he  would  take  us  before  a  high  mandarin  in 
another  section  of  the  city."  We  started  at  once  for  the  resi- 
dence of  the  mandarin.  As  we  went  we  noticed  a  dense 
crowd  ahead  of  us,  and  on  nearing  them  saw  the  uniforms 
of  some  of  our  brother  officers  from  the  ship  in  like  trouble 
with  ourselves,  having  been  arrested  as  trespassers  for  en- 
tering the  city.  They,  too,  had  started  for  the  tower,  but 
we  being  ahead  had  aroused  the  Chinese  to  a  more  vigilant 
watch,  and  it  had  caused  them  to  be  taken  in  charge  much 
sooner.  Among  this  party  was  T.  T.  Hunter,  second  lieu- 
tenant of  the  ship,  a  fine  specimen  of  a  naval  officer.  Tall 
and  commanding  in  person,  demonstrative  in  action,  Hun- 
ter received  us  with  open  arms,  verifying  and  so  expressing 
himself  the  old  adage  that  "misery  loves  company." 

Minister  McLane's  secretary  and  three  or  four  others 
formed  the  party.  We  now  joined  company  for  the  man- 
darin's residence,  and  upon  being  ushered  into  his  presence 
recognized  the  jolly  old  Chinaman  who  had  dined  with  us 
on  the  ship  two  days  before.  He  was  delighted  to  see  us, 
and  we  were  most  assuredly  relieved  to  see  him.  He  in- 
sisted upon  our  remaining  with  him  till  he  could  order  a 
feast  for  our  entertainment.  It  was  growing  dark,  and 
thanking  him  for  his  kindness  we  assured  him  that  we  had 
been  detained  so  long  beyond  our  time  it  was  our  impera- 
tive duty  to  return  to  our  ship  as  soon  as  possible.  He 
regretted  the  inconvenience  to  which  we  had  been  sub- 
jected (we  did  not  mention  our  fears  of  losing  our  heads), 
and  ordered  his  lantern-bearer  to  see  to  our  safe  convey- 
ance beyond  the  city  walls,  assuring  us  that  the  presence 
of  his  lantern  would  be  respected  by  all  sentinels  on 
duty.     This  lantern  was  a  transparency  which  had  painted 


74  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

on  it  his  crest,  or  coat  of  arms,  and  rank.  We  found  it 
absolutely  true — the  gates  flew  open  on  the  approach  of  the 
lantern-bearer  in  "open  sesame"  style.  We  had  now  been 
taken  from  the  opposite  side  straight  through  the  city,  and 
found  ourselves  at  no  great  distance  from  the  ship,  with  an 
open  roadway.  We  hailed  the  ship  for  a  boat,  which  was 
sent,  and  about  12  o'clock  at  night  we  arrived  in  safety  and 
reported  our  fatiguing  and  harassing  day,  including  our 
"hair  breadth"  escape  from  execution. 


Chapter  XI 

The  following  day  the  Chinese  Government  sent  an 
officer  on  board  bearing  an  important  looking  document 
for  the  commodore.  Said  document  informed  him  that  "if 
any  more  of  his  outside  barbarians  attempted  to  enter  the 
city  they  would  have  their  heads  chopped  off."  This 
brought  to  mind  with  a  shuddering  sense  of  horror  the 
butchered  heads  in  cages  we  had  seen  in  the  executioner's 
yard  through  which  we  had  been  carried.  The  commo- 
dore, however,  did  not  notice  this  document.  With  the 
little  steamer  in  front  of  us  we  now  got  under  way  and 
started  up  the  river.  We  observed  our  soundings  very 
carefully,  as  we  were  now  going  up  the  river  further  into 
the  interior  than  any  foreign  vessel  had  ever  gone.  The 
country  presented  a  vast  acreage  in  cultivation,  showing 
no  waste  or  unused  land.  Great  activity  seemed  to  prevail 
both  on  shore  and  river.  Large  boats  transporting  pro- 
duce and  goods  were  numerous,  and  the  fertile  valley  of 
the  Yangtse  Kiang,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  verified 
the  statement  of  its  being  the  "Granary  of  China." 

We  found  a  bold  river,  too,  carrying  a  sufficient  depth 
of  water  to  navigate  our  steam  frigate  with  safety.  We 
took  the  precaution  of  anchoring  at  night,  and  steaming 
cautiously  in  the  wake  of  the  little  steamer  ahead  of  us,  tak- 
ing soundings  as  we  went.  We  arrived  at  quite  an  ancient 
city,  whose  name  I  have  forgotten,  but  whose  old  pagoda 
had  been  taken  quiet  possession  of  by  bats  innumerable. 
We  came  to  anchor  and  were  soon  surrounded  by  boats  of 
all  kinds  filled  with  produce,  and  a  gaping,  wonder-struck 
people.  In  one  of  the  large  boats  we  noticed  some  don- 
keys. Whether  they  were  meant  to  be  traded  to  us  we 
never  learned,  so  concluded  the  visit  was  one  of  curiosity 


76  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

instead  of  trade,  they  being  drawn  towards  us  as  foreign- 
ers; certainly  they  had  never  seen  a  foreign  ship  or  a  foreign 
people  before.  We  gathered  from  these  venders  of  curios 
many  interesting  specimens.  The  commodore  having  no 
special  object  in  continuing  his  cruise  up  the  river,  we 
weighed  anchor  and  retraced  our  way,  and  passing  by  the 
Capital,  where  we  had  been  so  rudely  rebuffed,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  our  old  anchorage  at  Shanghai.  We  spent  here 
a  week  or  more,  greeted  our  dear  friends  at  the  mission, 
and  then  sailed,  with  Mr.  McLane  still  on  board,  for  Hong 
Kong.  At  this  point  Mr.  McLane  landed,  and  the  com- 
modore, after  a  few  days  of  rest,  sailed  for  Manila,  the 
Capital  of  Luzon,  one  of  the  Philippine  Islands.  On  this 
passage  Commodore  Aulick  was  taken  desperately  ill.  The 
surgeons  of  the  ship  pronounced  his  case  a  hopeless  one. 
Not  so  with  the  commodore  himself,  however.  He  had 
the  greatest  horror  of  being  buried  at  sea,  or  on  Spanish 
soil.  On  hearing  the  verdict  of  the  doctors  he  gave  orders 
that  "should  he  die,  his  body  should  be  put  in  a  cask  of 
whiskey  for  preservation  and  carried  to  English  soil  for 
interment,"  for  he  said  he  "did  not  wish  his  last  rest  to  be 
among  the  dagos."  His  will  power  proved  superior  to 
his  disease,  and  to  the  surprise  of  surgeons  and  all  on  board 
the  ship  he  rallied  and  finally  recovered. 

WTe  entered  the  port  of  Manila  after  a  pleasant  run  across 
the  China  Seas,  and  were  delighted  to  find  ourselves  out  of 
the  reach  of  China  and  the  "heathen  Chinee"  with  heads 
on  and  hearts  light.  The  population  of  Manila  is  a  race  of 
Mestizas,  a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  the  native  Indian — the 
men  after  the  order  of  the  Spanish  hidalgo  and  the  women 
as  beautiful  as  the  senoritas  of  old  Spain.  The  city  of 
Manila  was  founded  in  1 571 ,  and  has  remained  one  of  the 
most  important  of  the  Spanish  colonial  cities,  furnishing 
to  the  world  the  famous  Manila  cheroot  and  tobacco,  and 
the  Manila  cordage;  also  the  finest  fabrics  made  from  the 
pineapple  leaf,  known  as  pinea  cloth,  on  which  elaborate 
embroideries   are   exquisitely   done;   and   here   are   found 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  77 

dainty  articles  of  use  and  wear  and  ornament.  The  trade 
is  immense  with  England  and  the  United  States. 

We  were  very  fortunate  in  making  our  visit  to  Manila 
in  carnival  time.  At  this  season  the  whole  island  is  given 
over  to  dancing,  cockfighting,  gaiety  and  dissipation. 
Upon  visiting  the  shore  we  were  handsomely  entertained 
by  the  officers  of  the  Spanish  garrison.  My  friend  Ben- 
nett and  I  joined  a  lieutenant  of  the  garrison  in  a  snipe 
hunt  on  the  rice  fields,  and  brought  in  plenty  of  game. 
We  also  had  delightful  drives  in  the  country.  We  were 
struck  with  the  love  of  the  natives  for  cockfighting. 
Every  countryman  we  met  held  under  his  arm  a  cock 
ready  for  the  pit.  After  our  drive  we  were  carried  to  these 
pits  to  witness  the  gambling  excitement  over  these  fights, 
almost  equalling  the  bullfights  of  old  Spain. 

From  these  cruel  sports  we  went  visiting.  The  inhab- 
itants kept  open  houses,  with  music  and  dancing  at  the 
homes  of  all  the  most  important  families  in  the  city.  Of 
course  the  dancing  was  a  very  delightful  social  pastime  to 
us,  the  young  officers  of  the  ship.  To  return  this  atten- 
tion and  hospitality  we  gave  a  dance  on  board  the  ship. 
We  moved  the  battery  from  the  quarter  deck  and  deco- 
rated the  deck  with  flags  and  bunting,  making  chandeliers 
of  bayonets,  and  covering  the  deck  with  an  awning  we 
had  a  complete  and  beautiful  ball-room.  Here  we  enter- 
tained the  elite  of  the  city  of  Manila,  having  the  music  of 
our  fine  band,  and  a  feast  worthy  of  the  occasion.  It  was 
an  evening  of  great  enjoyment  to  them  and  to  us.  The 
Spanish  ladies  wore  magnificent  slippers,  many  of  them 
set  with  stones  of  great  value,  which  glistened  brilliantly 
on  their  tiny  feet.  These  slippers  without  heels  were  kept 
on  the  feet  by  the  little  toe  protruding  outside,  and  in  the 
round  dances  or  the  waltz  in  the  back  step  they  would 
sometimes  lose  a  slipper,  to  their  great  annoyance;  but  of 
course  it  was  a  great  amusement  to  their  partner  in  the 
dance  to  see  them  gracefully  return,  catch  the  slipper  on 
the  foot,  and  continue  the  waltz  as  if  no  such  accident  had 


78  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

occurred.  This  ball  was  the  closing  scene  of  our  visit. 
Our  guests  departed  after  midnight,  and  the  next  morn- 
ing, after  arranging  our  decks  in  man-of-war-style,  we  set 
sail  for  the  coast  of  China. 

We  arrived  at  our  old  anchorage  in  the  harbor  of  Hong 
Kong,  and  the  commodore's  health  being  sufficiently  re- 
stored, he  began  making  preparation  for  his  return  to  the 
United  States.  Commodore  Matthew  C.  Perry,  we 
learned,  was  on  his  way  out  to  take  command  of  the 
Chinese  Squadron.  His  flagship  was  the  Mississippi, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Sidney  Smith  Lee  (brother 
of  our  gallant  General  Robert  E.  Lee).  The  Mississippi, 
with  several  other  ships,  made  a  squadron  of  eight  vessels, 
including  those  already  out  there.  Commodore  Aulick 
returned  by  way  of  Europe.  Commodore  Perry  came  out 
in  the  same  way  to  join  the  squadron  in  Hong  Kong,  to 
make  there  the  necessary  preparation  to  visit  Japan  as 
Minister  Extraordinary. 

These  ships  coming  out  to  join  his  squadron  brought 
out  a  miniature  locomotive  and  train  of  cars,  with  accom- 
panying rails  and  all  the  attachments  for  running  them 
in  a  circle  of  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  to  show  those 
people  who  were  shut  up  in  their  own  country  what  was 
going  on  in  the  outside  world.  They  also  brought  out 
the  telegraph,  with  batteries  and  the  operators,  ready  to 
put  it  up  as  soon  as  permission  was  obtained  to  do  so.  All 
these  wonders  to  show  to  a  people  who  for  centuries  had 
excluded  the  foreigner  from  their  shores,  also  thereby 
excluding  the  marvels  and  progress  of  the  age.  In  due 
course  of  time  Commodore  Perry  arrived,  and  the  various 
ships  of  his  command.  All  was  now  active  preparation 
for  the  expedition  to  Japan.  Here  we  took  on  board  (he 
having  obtained  permission  to  join  us  in  the  capacity  of 
master's  mate)  the  author  and  poet  who  has  since  made 
his  name  famous,  Mr.  Bayard  Taylor. 

The  commodore  had  secured  as  interpreter  a  German, 
who  was  quite  a  fine  linguist;  speaking  English  fluently. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  79 

he  did  good  service  as  a  translator.  Some  of  the  Japan- 
ese officials,  being  conversant  with  German,  would  com- 
municate with  him  in  that  language,  and  he  would  trans- 
late it  into  English.  After  completing  all  arrangements 
we  sailed  in  squadron  for  the  Lew  Chew  group  of  islands, 
one  of  the  dependencies  of  Japan.  These  islands  lie  south 
of  the  Japan  group,  and  are  situated  off  the  coast  of  China. 
They  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  people  mild  in  their  dispo- 
sition and  possessing  none  of  the  arts  of  war  in  their  rude 
state.  These  people  live  after  the  order  of  the  old  patri- 
archs, and  are  among  the  most  pleasant  people  it  has  ever 
been  my  fortune  to  be  thrown  among.  They  are  indus- 
trious and  cleanly  in  their  habits  and  provide  abundantly 
for  their  own  subsistence. 

We  were  able  to  procure  from  them  poultry,  pigs  and 
vegetables  at  very  moderate  prices.  The  Capital  of  the 
great  Lew  Chew  is  situated  a  few  miles  in  the  interior,  and 
a  body  of  our  troops,  marines  and  sailors  marched  up  to 
the  city,  merely  to  impress  them  with  our  strength  and 
power.  Our  forces  were  pleasantly  received,  and  reported 
their  public  roads  in  perfect  order  and  their  bridges,  of 
arched  masonry,  artistic  and  beautiful.  Their  houses 
were  light  structures  one  story  high,  covered  with  tiling, 
scrupulously  clean,  with  matting  covering  the  floors,  and 
all  native  visitors  were  expected  to  remove  their  sandals 
before  entering  the  house,  and  leave  them  at  the  door; 
this  and  many  of  their  customs  struck  us  very  agreeably. 
While  lying  in  this  port  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one 
of  our  young  engineers.  It  was  a  very  sad  death  and  cast 
a  gloom  over  the  entire  ship.  Our  poet,  Bayard  Taylor, 
commemorated  the  event  by  some  beautiful  lines,  which 
I  wish  I  could  remember.  They  were  much  admired  by 
us  all.  Among  these  quiet,  peaceful  people  he  was  laid 
to  rest  to  await  the  resurrection  morning.  A  stranger  in 
a  foreign  land,  among  a  strange  and  unknown  people,  it 
touched  us  all  as  a  sad  and  lonely  fate ! 


Chapter  XII 

On  this  beautiful  island,  the  great  Lew  Chew,  where 
we  had  been  luxuriating  for  ten  days,  there  was  little  or 
nothing  to  collect  in  the  way  of  curios  or  mementos.  The 
people  were  strictly  rural,  and  plain  and  simple  in  their 
tastes.  We  were  ordered  to  weigh  anchor,  and  set  sail 
for  Japan.  In  one  of  my  old  letters  home  at  that  time  I 
find  myself  airing  the  sentiments  of  the  day  in  regard  to 
the    contemplated    expedition    to    Japan,    and    will    here 

insert  it: 

Hong  Kong,  February  22,  1853. 
My  Dear  Mother:  I  must  at  once  give  you  all  the  information 
we  have  concerning  the  great  expedition  to  Japan,  which  is  at  present 
of  absorbing  interest  to  us.  Its  merits  are  largely  discussed  by  all,  and 
the  most  plausible  view  we  can  take  of  the  expedition,  since  we  have  the 
assurance  in  the  President's  Message;  it  is  presumed  to  be  entirely  of 
a  peaceful  nature,  taking  them  presents  which  will  show  the  improve- 
ments of  the  age  and  through  our  intercourse  with  them  establish  a 
friendly  feeling,  and  if  possible  make  a  commercial  treaty.  We  learn 
there  will  be  brought  out  a  locomotive  with  several  miles  of  railroad 
iron,  a  telegraph  apparatus  (and  operator),  also  Daguerrean  artist  with 
"cameras,"  etc.,  all  of  which  if  they  will  allow  to  be  explained  and 
accept,  will  no  doubt  induce  them  to  look  upon  us  in  a  better  light  than 
a  set  of  "barbarians,"  which  term  they  apply  to  all  foreigners.  It  is 
a  part  of  their  religion  to  admit  no  innovations.  Should  they  refuse, 
which  is  most  likely,  I  have  yet  to  learn  what  right  we  have  to  try  to 
force  them  to  have  intercourse  with  us.  Others  argue  that  Commodore 
Perry  will  not  be  put  off  on  any  pretence  whatever;  that  he  will  effect  his 
mission  peaceably  if  he  can,  forcibly  if  he  must;  that  the  United  States 
Government  has  gone  to  too  much  expense  in  fitting  out  this  expedition 
to  have  it  return  without  making  some  active  demonstration ;  but  from 
what  I  have  heard  of  the  Japanese  we  will  have  no  just  cause  to  go 
to  war  with  them.  They  will  no  doubt  listen  quietly  to  our  parley,  thank 
us  for  our  good  intentions,  promise  protection  to  our  mariners  who  may 
be  thrown  on  their  coasts,  and  if  we  insist  upon  it  accept  our  presents, 
which   will   be   carefully   housed   and   superstitiously   guarded,    with   a 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  81 

promise  to  keep  them  as  a  lasting  memento  of  our  visit,  if  we  but  leave 
and  promise  to  return  no  more.  In  that  case,  what  are  we  to  do? 
Punch  has  us  caricatured  landing  an  army  of  missionaries  under  our 
guns,  armed  with  a  Bible  in  one  hand  and  a  revolver  in  the  other;  but 
as  a  gentleman  remarked  with  whom  I  was  talking,  "he  could  find  no 
place  in  the  Bible  where  we  were  told  to  do  evil  that  good  might  come." 
Still,  there  is  no  doubt  a  party  in  our  country — of  fanatics — who  would 
have  us  enter  in  the  cause  as  defenders  of  the  faith,  and  convert  the 
Japanese  to  Christianity,  whether  or  no !  Japan  cannot  be  conquered 
in  a  day,  neither  can  they  be  converted  in  one  generation ;  but  as  the 
car  of  civilization  is  now  coursing  the  globe,  Japan  may  ere  long  fall 
into  line  and  traces !  I  am  a  strong  advocate  for  the  purpose  of  the 
expedition,  and  believe  if  properly  conducted  it  will  be  the  beginning 
of  intercourse  with  that  people  and  lead  in  time  to  their  civilization ; 
but  of  course  this  will  take  time  and  cannot  be  done  in  a  day,  as  our 
go-ahead  Yankee  nation  would  have  it !  If  Commodore  Perry  acts 
prudently, — and  as  I  believe  he  is  instructed  to  do  by  our  Government, — 
he  will  not  fire  a  gun  to  their  annoyance ;  but  after  making  every  exer- 
tion of  a  peaceful  nature  to  induce  them  to  accede  to  our  proposals,  if 
they  still  hold  out  and  refuse  intercourse  with  us,  he  will  leave  their 
coasts  without  warlike  demonstration.  I  venture  to  assert  that  in  a  very 
few  years  we  will  be  thrown  with  them  again,  having  just  cause  for 
peace  or  war,  for  the  seas  washing  their  territories  is  the  main  thor- 
oughfare of  our  vessels  from  China  to  our  Western  Coast,  which  trade 
is  increasing  yearly  as  California  becomes  more  settled.  In  a  year  or 
two  we  will  have  steamers  sailing  in  sight  of  their  coast,  which  has 
heretofore  only  been  visited  by  distressed  whalers.  It  is  therefore  next 
to  an  impossibility  for  her  to  remain  alienated  with  civilization  steaming 
along  her  shores.  Should  our  principle  of  non-intervention,  which  we 
claim  to  hold  so  dear,  be  carried  out,  we  may  hope  to  leave  Japan  this 
coming  fall ;  otherwise,  should  we  blockade  their  coasts,  we  may  be 
detained  here  longer.  We  therefore  look  with  much  anxiety  for  the 
arrival  of  the  Mississippi,  Commodore  Perry's  flag-ship.  The  last  mail 
brought  us  news  of  her  having  sailed  from  Norfolk  on  the  twenty- 
fourth  of  November,  so  that  we  may  reasonably  look  for  her  by  the  first 
of  April.  We  also  had  news  of  the  Powhatan  breaking  some  part  of 
her  machinery,  which  may  delay  her  a  couple  of  months  longer.  I  am 
of  opinion  that  the  commodore  having  left,  she  will  not  follow ;  but  it 
is  likely  the  Department  will  have  instructions  awaiting  him  here,  to 
proceed  to  Japan  with  what  force  he  has.  The  season  suiting  admirably, 
we  can  be  there  in  ten  days  after  leaving  this  port  and  be  through  with 
our  part  of  the  performance  by  fall.  We  will  no  doubt  leave  a  part  of 
the  squadron  on  their  coast  to  carry  out  some  surveys.     We  have  been 

6 


82  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

saluting,  in  company  with  the  other  national  ships  in  the  harbor,  in 
honor  of  the  day,  and  to-night  our  consul  gives  a  large  ball.  I  shall 
not  be  able  to  attend,  however,  having  the  mid-watch  to  keep.  Have 
just  heard  that  we  are  to  leave  at  daylight  for  Whampoa.  The  captain 
has  just  received  orders  from  the  commodore,  who  is  in  Canton  on  a 
visit  previous  to  taking  his  departure  for  home.  His  health  has  so 
much  improved  he  has  determined  to  go  overland.  We  will  only  be 
in  Whampoa  a  week  at  farthest,  but  return  with  the  commodore  in 
time  for  the  next  mail,  he  having  engaged  his  berth  on  board  that 
steamer.  I  am  so  glad  of  all  the  good  news  your  letter  gives  me  of 
home,  specially  that  B.  is  pleased  with  his  work  and  has  Daddy  Jim 
with  him.  I  indulged  in  a  hearty  laugh  on  reading  his  directions  that 
a  pair  of  "dove-colored  pants"  be  sent  the  dear  old  darkey.  My  letter 
has  grown  to  great  length,  so  I  must  close.  With  a  great  deal  of  love 
to  all  at  home,  I  am  your  affectionate  son, 

John  M.  Kell. 

We  first  anchored  in  the  beautiful  and  land-locked  har- 
bor of  Simodi,  which  has  since  been  totally  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake.  We  here  received  many  of  the  high  offi- 
cials of  Japan.  We  entertained  them  with  great  hospi- 
tality and  distinction,  to  impress  them  favorably  with  our 
presence  as  visitors  in  Japan.  We  got  permission  to 
land  our  field  pieces  and  also  our  marine  forces  and  sailors. 
They  were  allowed  to  drill  in  their  temple  grounds  and 
made  a  very  handsome  display,  and  were  viewed  with 
great  interest  by  the  natives.  These  people  impressed  us 
with  their  great  superiority  to  the  Chinese.  They  were  in 
every  way  more  congenial  in  manner  and  more  generous 
in  disposition.  The  dressing  of  the  hair  was  the  reverse 
of  the  Chinese.  Instead  of  wearing  the  queue,  they  shaved 
the  crown  of  the  head  and  brought  up  the  hair  to  the  top 
to  cover  it,  tying  it  in  a  little  knot  on  top.  The  women 
paid  great  attention  to  the  dressing  of  their  hair  and  suc- 
ceeded admirably  in  its  adornment. 

Before  proceeding  further  in  narrations  of  our  visit  to 
Japan  I  will  state  what  I  had  forgotten  to  do  before  this. 
We  had  with  us  on  board  ship  half  a  dozen  Japanese  sail- 
ors. They  had  been  picked  up  floating  on  a  wreck  of  one 
of  their  unseaworthy  coasting  vessels  in  the  Pacific  Ocean 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  83 

and  carried  to  the  United  States  by  an  American  whale- 
ship.  The  Government  took  charge  of  them  and  placed 
them  on  board  one  of  the  ships  of  Commodore  Perry's 
Expedition,  to  be  returned  to  their  own  country.  This 
act  of  the  Government  was  propitiatory,  but  I  very  much 
doubt  if  it  was  received  in  the  spirit  in  which  it  was  meant, 
for  one  of  their  laws  for  cutting  off  communication  with 
the  outside  world,  and  one  strictly  enforced,  was  that  any 
Japanese  who  left  his  country  under  any  circumstances 
was  not  allowed  to  return  under  punishment  of  death. 
These  poor  fellows  were  no  doubt  exempted  from  this  law 
and  had  their  lives  saved  by  being  proteges  of  the  United 
States  Government.  This  law  of  forty  years  or  more  ago 
must  long  ago  have  become  obsolete.  There  was  no 
demonstration  made  over  their  return,  and  we  never 
heard  further  of  their  welfare.  While  on  board  they  gave 
us  a  practical  demonstration  of  applying  the  "moxa."  A 
stalwart  Japanese  was  suffering  great  pain.  He  stripped 
himself  to  the  waist  and  with  face  downward  on  the  deck 
one  of  his  companions  applied  the  "moxa"  in  little  cones 
and  set  fire  to  it  at  the  top,  on  either  side  of  the  spine  a 
few  inches  apart.  It  gradually  burned  out,  and  either  was 
not  very  painful  or  the  Japanese  had  wonderful  powers  of 
endurance,  as  he  did  not  seem  to  move  a  muscle.  After 
the  operation  he  got  up,  apparently  much  relieved,  and 
quite  himself  again. 

Commodore  Perry  had  taken  out  with  him  one  of  the 
finest  bands  of  music  that  ever  sailed  with  a  squadron,  in 
fact  a  perfect  band.  He  gave  orders  that  they  should 
play  national  airs  and  martial  music  to  impress  the  Japan- 
ese with  that  style  of  melody.  They  were  also  taken 
around  the  decks  and  shown  the  large  guns.  They  looked 
as  little  surprised  as  though  they  were  perfectly  familiar 
with  their  construction  and  working  of  the  guns.  They 
were  then  taken  to  our  engine  room,  thinking  that  the 
beautiful  machinery  of  our  magnificent  engines  would 
elicit  some  expression  of  admiration.     They  looked  at  all 


84  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

we  had  to  display  with  interest,  but  showed  no  astonish- 
ment at  anything.  In  other  words,  they  showed  every 
trait  of  gentility  and  culture  and  impressed  us  with  admira- 
tion at  their  stoicism.  After  remaining  a  week  or  more 
in  the  harbor  of  Simodi  the  squadron  got  under  way  and 
we  steamed  around  the  Bay  of  Jeddo.  There  being  no 
accurate  charts  of  this  bay  known  to  the  civilized  world  at 
that  time,  we  had  to  keep  a  boat  (one  of  our  cutters) 
ahead  of  us,  taking  soundings  as  we  steamed  along,  for 
safe  guidance.  Finding  plenty  of  water,  we  made  good 
progress  until  our  boat  was  discovered,  when  quite  a  fleet 
of  native  boats  loaded  with  soldiers  bearing  lances  and 
other  weapons  were  seen  to  pull  immediately  across  the 
bow  of  our  boat  to  stop  our  progress.  The  officer  in  com- 
mand ordered  the  men  to  take  up  their  muskets  to  defend 
themselves.  The  Japanese  presented  their  pikes,  but  the 
official  or  dignitary  in  command  of  their  fleet  of  boats  waved 
his  fan  as  a  signal  for  us  to  come  no  nearer,  and  requested 
an  interview  to  make  explanation.  He  stated  that  he  was 
sent  by  his  government  to  stop  our  further  progress  up  the 
bay.  He  begged  that  this  request  be  made  known  to  our 
commanding  officer,  for  while  we  had  it  in  our  power  to 
proceed,  it  would  result  in  his  being  compelled  to  commit 
the  "hari-kari,"  which  meant  to  take  his  own  life  by  falling 
on  his  sword  and  disemboweling  himself !  This  was  a  law 
which  had  to  go  into  effect  for  not  executing  the  orders 
of  a  superior  officer.  A  cruel  law,  indeed,  of  so  peaceful 
and  refined  a  people !  Our  officer  in  command  at  once 
granted  his  request.  He  returned  on  board  ship  and  re- 
ported the  same  to  the  commodore.  We  came  to  anchor 
with  the  squadron  and  the  commodore  sent  a  communi- 
cation to  the  Mikado,  the  official  head  of  the  Empire,  in- 
forming him  that  he  was  empowered  as  Minister  Extraor- 
dinary to  treat  with  his  government,  and  desired  that  a 
day  be  fixed  for  presenting  his  credentials.  The  officers 
were  much  relieved  at  not  having  to  pass  through  the 
painful  ordeal  of  sacrificing  themselves,  and  left  with  these 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  85 

dispatches.  At  this  anchorage  we  were  daily  visited  by- 
officials  from  the  shore.  We  received  them  cordially,  and 
they  were  usually  entertained  by  Captain  Buchanan  and 
Captain  Lee,  who  in  true  American  style  would  dispense 
to  them  during  their  visit  a  whiskey  toddy.  The  Japanese 
would  enjoy  what  they  called  "Mellican  wine,"  and  not 
knowing  its  effects  would  sometimes  take  more  than  they 
could  carry  comfortably  and  become  very  jolly,  and  a 
jolly  Jap  is  something  worth  seeing !  The  commodore, 
while  he  would  encourage  these  visits  from  the  high  offi- 
cials, would  never  allow  himself  to  be  seen.  He  would 
have  them  invited  into  his  cabin,  but  retire  into  his  state- 
room, and  there  unseen  greatly  enjoy  the  interviews  be- 
tween his  officers  and  the  Japanese.  The  conversations 
were  interpreted  through  the  German  Secretary.  The 
days  now  passed  with  very  little  satisfaction  to  the  com- 
modore, who  was  waiting  (not  very  patiently)  for  the 
Mikado  to  appoint  a  day  for  his  reception.  Not  receiving- 
such  notice  as  he  thought  in  due  time,  he  sent  a  commu- 
nication to  inform  the  authorities  "if  the  time  was  not 
appointed  within  ten  days  he  would  land  his  forces  and 
present  his  credentials  in  person  at  the  city  of  Jeddo." 
This  threat  seemed  to  arouse  the  tardy  Mikado,  for  he  saw 
our  commodore  "meant  business."  The  Mikado  forth- 
with ordered  the  erection  of  a  house  in  a  pleasant  location 
higher  up  the  bay,  and  within  the  limited  ten  days  the 
commodore  was  notified  that  an  officer  of  equal  rank  with 
himself  would  receive  him  at  this  point.  The  next  day 
the  squadron  got  under  way  and  steamed  up  to  this  an- 
chorage, where  we  saw  the  new  building.  Coming  to 
anchor  (as  our  squadron  did)  in  line  of  battle,  presenting 
our  starboard  broadside  to  the  shore,  with  springs  on  our 
cables  to  cover  the  landing  of  our  forces,  and  in  case  of 
treachery  that  our  batteries  might  play  upon  the  enemy, 
we  presented  a  formidable  array.  All  boats  were  now 
lowered  and  preparation  made  for  landing  the  forces,  the 
commodore  and  his  staff  (of  which  I  had  the  honor  of 


86  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

being  a  member)  bringing  up  the  rear.  The  boats  pulled 
up  in  column  to  the  shore.  As  the  forces  were  landed  the 
boats  would  drop  out  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  landing. 
The  marines  forming  on  the  right  and  the  blue  jackets  on 
the  left,  presented  an  unbroken  line  from  the  shore  to  the 
building,  keeping  the  Japanese  out  of  that  space.  The 
commodore  then  landed,  presenting  a  fine  appearance, 
being  a  large  and  fine-looking  man,  in  new  full-dress  uni- 
form, accompanied  by  his  staff.  Following  this  a  strik- 
ing feature  in  this  body  were  three  stalwart  negroes,  neatly 
dressed  in  their  muster  suits,  armed  cap-a-pie,  and  carrying 
in  rosewood  boxes  the  credentials  of  the  Minister  Extraor- 
dinary. This  was  an  imposing  spectacle,  and  the  Ameri- 
can flag  waved  for  the  first  time  on  the  soil  of  Japan  in  the 
history  of  that  nation.  Each  company  carried  a  hand- 
some new  flag  of  the  American  Union.  Thousands  of 
Japanese  witnessed  this  spectacle  and  observed  the  strictest 
order  and  decorum,  while  a  few  of  the  highest  in  rank 
were  permitted  to  approach  and  witness  the  ceremonies. 
The  Japanese  flags  decorated  the  building  and  many  were 
carried  by  the  standard-bearers  of  these  officials.  As  the 
commodore  and  his  staff  drew  near  to  the  entrance  of  the 
building  he  was  met  by  the  officer  of  the  Japanese  Govern- 
ment and  his  suite,  making  the  salaams  of  their  country, 
after  which  we  were  conducted  into  the  building;  the 
Japanese  were  seated  on  one  side  and  the  Americans  on 
the  other.  The  interpreter  (Japanese)  took  his  position 
between  the  two,  down  on  his  knees,  not  daring  to  look 
at  either  party,  but  merely  repeating  the  communications 
as  an  automaton  or  a  machine  might  have  done.  Our 
grand  old  commodore,  with  his  imposing  presence  and 
gigantic  stature,  delivered  with  great  dignity  and  solem- 
nity the  credentials  empowering  him  to  treat  with  the 
Japanese  nation,  doing  honor  to  his  country  by  his  impres- 
sive bearing,  both  martial  and  soldierly.  After  this  for- 
mality was  gone  through  with  some  attempt  at  pleasant 
intercourse  was  passed  between  the  two  parties,  and  this 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  87 

great  occasion,  which  proved  the  wedge  that  opened  Japan 
to  the  civilized  world,  was  brought  to  a  close.  The  com- 
modore and  his  staff  withdrew  from  the  reception  and 
returned  on  board  ship  in  the  same  order  with  which  we 
had  landed.  Nothing  occurred  to  mar  the  very  imposing 
ceremonies  in  behalf  of  our  country.  The  fleet  got  under 
way  and  dropped  down  the  bay  to  our  former  anchorage, 
which  was  better  suited  for  operating  our  railroad  and  the 
telegraph  wires  brought  out  by  the  commodore  to  display 
to  these  secluded  people  the  vast  improvements  of  the  age. 

In  a  few  days  we  had  in  operation  the  little  locomotive 
and  miniature  cars.  For  these  we  had  laid  the  track  in 
a  circle,  and  it  was  about  a  mile  in  circumference.  The 
Japanese  displayed  great  interest  in  this  steam  locomotion 
on  dry  land.  Some  of  the  more  daring  ventured  to  ride 
on  the  outside,  the  cars  being  too  small  to  admit  of  their 
riding  inside.  What  seemed  to  surprise  them  more  even 
than  this  was  sending  messages  by  telegraph  and  receiving 
answers  in  reply.  They  stationed  their  own  officers  and 
interpreters  at  each  end  of  the  line,  so  had  no  reason  to 
think  we  were  playing  upon  their  credulity.  They  greatly 
enjoyed  the  display  of  these  inventions,  and  the  purpose 
we  had  in  view  seemed  fully  accomplished.  We  felt  fully 
rewarded  by  their  interest  and  pleasure. 

While  at  this  anchorage  our  chaplain,  a  man  of  most 
inquiring  turn  of  mind,  and  most  persistent  in  carrying 
out  a  purpose,  wandered  off  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
captain,  some  distance  in  the  interior.  The  first  informa- 
tion received  of  him  on  board  ship  was  a  communication 
which  described  him  so  accurately  both  as  to  person  and 
dress  as  to  be  unmistakable,  and  a  request  that  he  be 
"ordered  back  to  the  ship."  The  bearer,  of  course,  took 
in  return  an  order,  signed  by  the  commanding  officer,  that 
he  "return  at  once  to  the  ship."  Our  poor  chaplain  came 
on  board  quite  chagrined.  It  really  was  quite  contrary 
to  orders  for  our  officers  or  men  to  go  into  the  interior 
(but  chaplains  have  privileges).     All  officers  and  men  were 


88  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

always  kindly  treated  by  this  courteous,  gentle-mannered 
people.  The  commodore,  having  accomplished  the  ob- 
ject of  his  visit,  departed  with  a  part  of  his  squadron  for 
Hong  Kong.  Upon  our  arrival  there  we  met  Captain 
Ringgold  with  his  surveying  and  exploring  expedition  to 
the  North  Pacific  and  the  China  Seas,  of  which  coast  very 
little  was  then  known,  no  accurate  surveys  having  been 
made  up  to  that  time.  Captain  Ringgold's  health  having 
failed  during  this  arduous  work,  Commodore  Perry  relieved 
him  of  his  command  and  sent  him  home  as  an  invalid. 
Captain  John  Rodgers  succeeded  him  to  the  command. 
The  expedition  consisted  of  five  vessels — the  Sloop  of  War 
Vincennes,  Steamer  John  Hancock,  Brig  Porpoise,  Schooner 
/.  Fennimore  Cooper,  and  Store  Ship  John  P.  Kenedy.  After 
reorganizing  this  surveying  expedition,  Commodore  Perry 
began  his  own  preparation  for  returning  home  overland, 
making  such  transfers  of  officers  as  were  necessary.  His 
flagship,  the  Mississippi,  he  ordered  to  proceed  to  Japan, 
and  at  the  same  time  the  surveying  and  exploring  expedi- 
tion to  continue  on  its  survey  in  that  direction.  Here  I 
met  a  young  Georgian,  Burleigh  Baber,  a  passed  mid- 
shipman on  the  Brig  Porpoise.  As  he  could  not  hope  to 
reach  Georgia  as  soon  as  I,  at  his  request  I  took  from  him 
his  likeness  and  letters  to  bring  home  to  his  mother  and 
sisters.  His  mother  was  the  widow  of  one  of  Georgia's 
most  distinguished  physicians.  I  little  dreamed  in  so 
doing  I  would  bear  her  the  last  tidings  she  would  ever 
have  of  her  son.  We  sailed  out  of  Hong  Kong  harbor 
together,  he  in  the  Porpoise  and  I  in  the  Mississippi.  As 
we  passed  out  of  the  Lymoon  passage  we  encountered  a 
heavy  gale  of  wind.  The  Mississippi  had  her  steampower 
headed  to  the  northward  and  eastward  (on  her  way  to 
Japan),  from  which  the  heaviest  of  the  gale  came,  while 
the  Porpoise  parted  from  us.  standing  to  the  southward 
and  eastward  in  the  direction  of  the  island  of  Formosa. 
This  was  the  last  ever  seen  of  the  Porpoise.  Many  were 
the  hopes  that  lingered  long  with  the  friends  and  families 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  89 

of  those  on  the  ill-fated  brig*.  There  seemed  a  bare  possi- 
bility that  some  of  her  crew  might  have  been  picked  up 
by  the  savages  in  the  Pacific  islands.  But  nothing  has 
ever  been  heard,  or  ever  will  be  "till  the  sea  gives  up  her 
dead."  The  news  of  her  loss  reached  the  United  States 
before  we  did,  and  soon  after  my  arrival  at  home  I  deliv- 
ered in  person  my  charge  to  his  widowed  mother,  who  in 
sadness  and  sorrow  received  them,  though  not  at  that 
time  with  all  hope  dead  in  her  heart.  I  realized  what  he 
had  been,  "the  only  son  of  his  mother,  and  she  a  widow !" 


Chapter  XIII 

Among  the  transfers  of  officers  at  Hong  Kong  I  think 
I  have  failed  to  mention  that  I  was  made  master  of  the 
Mississippi.  After  riding  out  a  heavy  gale  we  proceeded 
on  our  course  to  Japan,  arriving  in  the  Bay  of  Jeddo  in 
the  month  of  February.  AVe  found  there  a  part  of  our 
squadron  and  the  coal  ship,  from  which  we  supplied  our- 
selves with  coals  for  our  long  passage  across  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  We  met  some  of  our  old  friends  among  the  natives, 
and  laid  in  a  large  supply  of  fresh  stores  and  provisions. 
The  Bay  of  Jeddo  (or,  as  there  called,  Yedo)  is  a  most  mag- 
nificent one.  The  precipitous  coast  of  Sagami  rises  to  the 
left,  while  far  inland  are  lofty  mountains  covered  with  snow, 
the  high  peak  of  Fusi-Yama  most  conspicuous  of  all. 
Pretty  little  villages  and  towns  stud  the  margins  of  the 
shore,  forming  a  beautiful,  restful  landscape  for  the  eye  of 
the  seaman  to  dwell  upon.  The  coast  of  Awa,  some  ten 
or  twelve  miles  distant,  gave  the  lovely  twilight  haze  that 
softens  all  it  rests  upon,  and  gave  to  Nature  even  in  its 
wintry  aspect  a  look  of  cheerful  repose.  The  Japanese 
were  at  that  time  (I  do  not  know  what  intercourse  with 
the  outside  world  may  have  done  for  them)  a  contented, 
social  people,  very  dignified  in  demeanor,  never  seemed 
to  act  impulsively,  but  always  with  mildness  and  decorum. 
The  opening  of  the  spring  there  seems  to  inspire  the  latent 
poetry  of  their  nature,  and  it  is  not  unusual,  as  our  inter- 
preters informed  us,  to  hear  them  greet  each  other  in 
flowery  language,  such  as  this,  to  express  their  kindly 
New  Year's  greeting:  "May  your  felicity  be  as  broad  as 
the  eastern  sea  and  your  age  as  enduring  as  the  southern 
hills;"  "May  joys  clamber  over  your  blest  abode  and  a 
thousand  lucks  pass  through  your  gate."     But  we  must 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  91 

set  sail  ere  long,  and  after  taking  leave  of  our  friends  and 
brother  officers  begin  our  long  and  circuitous  voyage, 
"homeward  bound." 

At  the  call  of  the  boatswain,  "All  hands  up  anchor  for 
home,"  only  the  mariner  can  understand  and  appreciate 
the  thrill  of  joy  after  an  absence  of  years  among  a  strange 
and  foreign  people.  We  were  now  steering  eastward,  as 
we  had  been  since  leaving  our  native  shores.  Our  cruise 
was  to  "circumnavigate  the  globe."  All  was  bright  and 
beautiful  as  we  bade  adieu  to  Japan,  the  last  thing  in  sight 
being  its  snow-capped  mountain,  which  had  also  been  the 
first  point  to  welcome  us  as  we  approached  its  unknown 
shores.  We  had  sailed  with  pleasant  weather  attending 
us  till  the  seventh  day  out,  when  the  skies  became  overcast 
and  the  clouds  scudding  with  a  falling  barometer  gave 
every  indication  of  an  approaching  storm.  Fortunately 
for  us,  our  good  ship,  the  Mississippi,  was  lightened  by 
the  consumption  of  seven  days'  coal  when  we  encountered 
a  most  terrific  typhoon.  This  region  of  the  world  is  sub- 
ject to  such  storms,  which  are  circular  and  progressive. 
The  stanch  ship  labored  heavily,  and  the  seas  swept  over 
our  decks,  tearing  away  from  the  davits  our  metallic  life- 
boat, which  we  could  see  floating  away  from  us  like  a  cork 
in  our  wake  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Another  sea 
struck  us  on  our  bow,  tearing  away  our  pivot  gun  and 
completely  upsetting  it.  By  the  prompt  action  of  our 
daring  seamen  it  was  secured  and  lashed  in  time  to  save 
it  from  being  lost  overboard.  This  state  of  affairs  pre- 
sented a  very  alarming  sight  to  one  not  accustomed  to  the 
fury  of  the  winds  and  waves,  but  our  grand  old  ship  rode 
out  the  storm  magnificently.  Her  engines  worked  so  per- 
fectly that  there  really  was  no  cause  for  anxiety  or  alarm, 
with  our  hatches  battened  down  to  keep  the  water  from 
going  below,  and  life  lines  stretched  across  the  decks  to 
which  our  men  could  hold  and  keep  themselves  from  being 
swept  overboard.  We  rode  out  the  storm  in  safety  with 
no  loss  of  life.     The  following  day  the  storm  had  abated 


92  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

and  we  pursued  our  way  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  the 
harbor  of  Hawaii.  The  changes  that  had  taken  place 
since  my  last  visit  to  these  islands  in  the  Frigate  Savannah, 
almost  ten  years  before,  were  really  marvelous.  Now  in 
the  place  of  a  native  village  had  grown  up  a  town,  quite 
American  in  aspect,  with  American  inhabitants  predomi- 
nating largely.  One  could  imagine  himself  in  a  "down 
East"  town.  The  genus  homo  of  the  true  "Brother 
Jonathan"  is  unmistakable  and  pronounced  wherever  he 
is  met  with  in  the  world,  and  the  Yankee  whaler  can  never 
be  imitated  by  other  nations  without  danger  of  counterfeit, 
he  being  entirely  original.  We  remained  in  port  long 
enough  to  recuperate  and  enjoy  the  delightful  fruits  and 
vegetables  of  this  tropical  climate.  We  next  set  sail  for 
the  harbor  of  San  Francisco. 

On  arriving  here  there  awaited  me  still  greater  surprise 
in  the  more  wonderful  changes  of  this  magical  city  and  its 
surroundings.  Ten  years  had  elapsed  since  my  service 
here  in  the  Mexican  War.  Then  there  were  but  a  few 
wooden  structures,  where  now  stood  magnificent  edifices, 
fine  wharves,  beautiful  and  commodious  dwellings  with 
elaborately  decorated  grounds  surrounding  them,  and 
gardens  filled  with  luxuriant  shrubbery  and  rare  flowers — 
in  fact,  a  city  of  magical  and  wonderful  growth.  We  met 
here  many  friends  and  acquaintances  of  both  naval  and 
civil  life.  Captain  Farragut  was  here,  with  no  dream  of 
the  future  honors  that  awaited  him  as  a  successful  officer 
on  the  winning  side  in  the  war  between  the  States  a  few 
years  later.  Richard  Cuyler,  too,  was  in  "Frisco."  They 
were  both  much  interested  in  land  speculations  in  that 
new  and  growing  country.  We  remained  in  San  Fran- 
cisco two  or  three'  weeks,  enjoying  great  hospitality  and 
pleasant  intercourse  with  congenial  friends,  and  next 
steamed  out  of  the  "Golden  Gate"  for  Valparaiso  on  our 
homeward  journey.  This  was  quite  a  long  stretch  at  sea, 
passing  through  the  temperate  and  tropic  zones  without 
a  storm  of  any  kind  to  cause  us  anxiety.     Arriving  at 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  93 

Valparaiso  we  refreshed  our  crew  with  the  luxuries  of  port 
before  starting  on  the  boisterous  voyage  around  Cape 
Horn.  We  spent  a  few  days  only  in  Valparaiso,  when 
getting  under  way  we  sailed  in  a  southerly  direction  for 
Cape  Horn.  As  we  approached  the  Cape  Captain  Lee 
determined  to  go  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  The 
weather  was  thick  and  raining  violently,  so  that  we  were 
kept  anxiously  looking  for  a  headland  which  marks  the 
entrance  to  the  Strait.  To  our  great  relief  we  sighted 
this  desired  object,  and  steered  boldly  for  the  shore.  Upon 
entering  this  rugged  passage  we  suddenly  found  calm 
waters,  and  to  the  great  relief  of  our  entire  ship's  company 
we  came  to  anchor  that  night  in  a  quiet  nook  and  enjoyed 
for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Valparaiso  comfort,  rest 
and  sleep. 

The  next  morning  at  daylight  we  were  under  way, 
steaming  through  this  ice-bound  passage  with  a  heavy 
snowstorm  falling.  In  the  midst  of  the  storm  we  sighted 
a  little  canoe  pulling  off  to  us.  In  the  canoe  was  a  Pata- 
gonian  Indian  with  his  squaw,  who  had  her  baby  lashed 
to  her  back  without  a  covering  on  its  head,  apparently 
regardless  of  the  weather.  They  begged  us  for  something 
to  eat.  We  loaded  them  down  with  ''hard  tack"  and  fat 
meat,  which  was  a  fortune  to  them,  and  they  took  leave  of 
us  with  grateful  hearts.  We  steamed  through  the  Straits 
the  entire  day,  passing  in  sight  of  the  penal  colony  of 
Chile,  and  that  night  anchored  again  at  the  eastern 
entrance  of  the  Straits.  The  land  here  presented  a  flat 
and  low  appearance,  whereas  the  western  entrance-  was 
mountainous  and  rugged.  The  following  morning  we 
steamed  into  the  broad  Atlantic,  rejoicing  that  we  were 
again  on  the  ocean  that  washed  our  own  shores,  and 
shaped  our  course  northward  for  the  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro. 
As  we  cleared  this  ice-bound  region  and  approached  the 
tropics  we  rejoiced  in  the  sunshine,  thoroughly  airing  and 
ventilating  our  bedding,  wearing  apparel,  etc.  After  a 
pleasant  run  of  about  two  weeks  we  entered  the  famed 


94  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

and  beautiful  harbor  of  Rio.  Familiar  scenes  greeted  us 
on  every  side,  and  we  were  delighted  to  find  the  city 
healthy  and  free  from  the  fever  scourge,  so  common  a 
visitant  there.  Of  course  we  here  enjoyed  all  the  fruits 
and  vegetables  of  this  generous  soil  and  climate,  and  after 
recuperating  we  again  weighed  anchor,  for  the  last  time, 
on  our  homeward-bound  voyage.  In  the  ordinary  voyage 
from  Rio  to  New  York,  taking  the  southeast  trade  winds, 
we  ran  to  the  tropics,  and  after  passing  the  equator 
through  calms  and  rain  squalls,  we  entered  the  region  of 
the  brisk  northeast  trade  winds  and  made  a  splendid  run, 
reaching  the  port  of  New  York  in  April,  1855. 

Laying  up  our  good  ship  alongside  the  Brooklyn  Navy 
Yard,  we  bade  farewell  to  friends  with  whom  we  had 
passed  through  many  scenes  of  pleasure  and  encountered 
many  trials  and  dangers,  never  to  be  forgotten,  in  our 
association  for  years  in  foreign  lands.  Commodore  Per- 
ry's voluminous  and  very  interesting'  books  upon  the 
Japanese  Expedition  do  not  seem  to  have  the  historical 
value  they  should  and  do  possess,  by  being  found  in  all 
public  libraries.  I  regret  to  say  my  copy  was  lost  among 
many  other  valuables  in  the  fortunes  of  war.  Not  only 
were  the  note  books  and  journal  of  the  gifted  Bayard 
Taylor,  author  and  poet,  made  use  of  by  the  commodore, 
but  my  beloved  friend  Dr.  Charles  Frederick  Fahs,  of  the 
Navy,  was  a  valuable  contributor  to  the  same.  Being  a 
very  scientific  man  and  an  enthusiastic  botanist,  the  flora 
and  fauna  of  those  distant  lands  gave  him  great  delight, 
and  his  willing  mind  was  one  ever  searching  for  hidden 
treasure  in  the  wells  of  knowledge;  yet  so  childlike  was  his 
faith  (like  the  great  Maury's)  that  it  was  beautiful  to  see 
how  his  worshiping  soul  could  look  adoringly  through 
Nature  up  to  Nature's  God.  To  the  end  of  his  useful  and 
noble  life  he  was  never  beguiled  by  the  follies  of  science, 
but  "retained  God  in  his  knowledge,"  and  in  that  knowl- 
edge saw  the  light  of  revealed  truth  and  the  blessed  hope 
of  immortality! 


Chapter  XIV 

Early  in  May,  1855,  we  turned  our  faces  homeward  with 
a  three-months'  leave  of  absence  in  our  pockets.  I  found 
family  and  friends  moving  from  rice  plantations  to  their 
summer  places  on  the  salt  water.  At  this  season  there  is 
no  indulgence  of  hunting,  but  boating,  fishing,  and  pic- 
nicking was  the  order  of  the  day  for  amusement.  Among 
my  friends,  living  about  six  miles  distant,  was  George 
Dent,  a  son  of  Commodore  Dent.  He  professed  to  be  a 
rice  planter,  but  thereby  was  a  fine  mechanic  spoiled  (for 
his  genius  was  in  that  direction).  George  had  been  spend- 
ing his  many  leisure  hours  building  a  little  steamer  for  use 
and  pleasure  on  the  river  inlets  and  sound  in  his  neighbor- 
hood, he  living  then  at  Baisden's  Bluff.  On  the  comple- 
tion of  the  boat  he  invited  me  to  attend  the  ceremony  of 
launching  it,  which  occasion  was  to  be  a  merrymaking  to 
his  friends  and  neighbors.  The  launch  proved  quite  a 
success,  and  she  rode  the  waters  gracefully.  The  gratifi- 
cation of  the  builder  and  owner  was  an  enjoyment  to  his 
friends  as  well  as  himself.  The  following  day  Dent  pro- 
posed taking  me  to  Sapelo  Island  on  a  visit,  he  acting  as 
engineer,  with  a  negro  man  to  assist  him,  I  as  helmsman 
to  steer  the  little  craft.  We  made  excellent  time,  our 
navigation  being  all  on  salt  water,  and  we  reached  the 
island  before  sunset.  We  anchored  in  Sapelo  Sound,  and 
shortly  after  my  cousin,  Randolph  Spalding,  came  pulling 
out  of  the  mouth  of  the  creek  to  us  in  one  of  his  fine  race 
boats.  He  invited  us  ashore  for  the  night.  We  declined, 
as  we  were  "yachting,"  and  insisted  that  he  should  spend 
the  night  with  us.  He  vowed  that  our  "craft  could  not 
hold  him  for  a  longer  time  than  a  social  call,  as  he  knew 
Dent's  boat  was  bound  to  blow  up."     The  next  day's  ex- 


96  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

perience  came  near  proving  Randolph's  assertion  a 
prophecy.  We  decided  on  a  trip  np  to  the  city  of  Darien 
the  following  day.  At  first  all  went  well  with  our  little 
steamer;  but  as  we  were  passing  from  the  salt  water  into 
the  fresh  the  boiler  commenced  foaming  to  such  a  degree 
as  to  cause  us  great  alarm.  It  threw  water  from  every 
conceivable  egress,  covering  the  deck  and  us.  This  steam 
and  vapor  bath  we  did  not  relish  much.  While  we  felt 
courageous  enough  to  die  for  duty,  we  did  not  want  to  sac- 
rifice our  lives  simply  for  pleasure.  I  changed  the  course  of 
the  steamer  for  the  nearest  shore,  but  before  reaching  that 
point  the  violent  ebullition  began  to  subside,  and  I  real- 
ized that  it  was  only  the  change  in  the  water,  at  which  we 
were  greatly  relieved,  and  continued  our  delightful  little 
cruise,  visiting  our  friends  on  the  sea  islands  in  their  sum- 
mer homes. 

In  June  of  this  year  I  made  a  visit  to  the  city  of  Macon. 
On  this  visit  I  met  for  the  first  time  my  future  wife. 
Beautiful  city  of  Macon,  within  your  suburbs  I  found  love 
and  happiness  in  the  long  years  gone  by !  And  now  the 
life  within  me  thrills  when  I  breathe  your  flower-laden 
air,  and  the  memories  of  the  past  sweep  over  me  with 
loving  benediction ! 

In  October  I  made  a  second  visit  to  Macon,  and  accom- 
panied my  relatives,  the  Reeses,  to  the  village  of  Roswell 
to  attend  the  marriage  of  Miss  Rees  to  Rev.  F.  R.  Golding, 
a  Presbyterian  divine,  and  the  author  of  the  "Young  Ma- 
rooners,"  "The  Woodruff  Stories,"  etc.,  books  now  known 
in  every  land,  and  translated  into  several  tongues.  Re- 
turning from  this  marriage  I  spent  a  few  very  happy  days 
in  Macon.  "Leaves  of  absence"  will  draw  to  a  close,  and 
early  in  December  I  received  orders  to  join  the  Coast  Sur- 
vey Schooner  Arago,  then  lying  at  the  Pensacola  Navy 
Yard.  Leaving  home  on  these  orders,  I  spent  a  few  hours 
in  Macon,  passed  through  Milledgeville  and  attended  the 
Governor's  reception,  my  sister,  Mrs.  Charles  Spalding, 
being  there  at  the  time  with  her  husband,  Colonel  Spald- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  97 

ing  being  a  member  of  the  Legislature.  I  joined  the 
Arago  and  we  proceeded  to  Galveston,  Texas,  which  port 
we  reached  the  middle  of  December,  and  at  once  entered 
on  our  work,  the  survey  of  the  coast  to  the  southward  of 
that  port.  I,  with  the  junior  lieutenant,  James  H.  Gillis, 
(now  Commodore  Gillis,  of  the  United  States  Navy),  was 
stationed  with  a  theodolite  on  shore  for  angling  on  the 
schooner  in  charge  of  Captain  De  Haven  and  the  junior 
officers,  they  running  lines  of  soundings.  This  work  was 
very  exacting,  being  obliged  to  angle  from  sunrise  to  sun- 
set, every  eight  minutes  in  the  day.  This  kept  Gillis  and 
I  quite  busy,  we  being  stationed  nine  miles  apart.  We 
were  relieved  from  this  hard  work,  though,  by  the  frequent 
northers  occurring  at  this  season  of  the  year,  which  would 
blow  the  little  schooner  out  of  sight  for  days  at  a  time. 
Then  would  come  our  season  of  sport  and  enjoyment  in 
hunting  and  fishing. 

Upon  one  of  these  occasions  Gillis  rode  up  to  the  house 
I  was  occupying,  it  being  the  plantation  home  of  ex-Gov- 
ernor Winston,  of  Alabama,  and  to  which  the  family  came 
in  summer  to  enjoy  the  breezes  and  bathing  in  the  Gulf. 
Upon  the  top  of  this  house  I  had  erected  a  comfortable 
observatory,  from  which  I  could  see  for  miles  across  the 
prairie  in  the  rear.  Having  noticed  this  morning  a  fine 
buck  feeding  on  the  prairie,  I  suggested  to  Gillis  our  try- 
ing to  secure  him  for  rations,  which  in  the  absence  of  the 
schooner  were  becoming  short.  Gillis  gladly  seconded 
this  plan,  and  having  a  pointer  dog  for  which  he  had  paid 
forty  dollars  in  Philadelphia,  we  expected  rare  sport. 
Gillis  had  tried  the  dog  for  birds,  but  at  the  first  fire  he 
made  tracks  for  home.  We  thought  failing  to  be  a  bird 
clog  he  might  prove  a  deer  dog.  Taking  our  sailor  man 
Bloomer,  who  waited  on  me,  to  the  observatory  and  point- 
ing out  the  deer,  I  instructed  him  to  tie  the  dog  and  carry 
him  around  the  deer,  then  setting  the  dog  on  and  whoop- 
ing wildly  to  drive  the  deer  in  our  direction  toward  the 
Gulf.     The   sailor  obeyed   implicitly,    and   the   dog   per- 


98  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

formed  his  work  like  a  well-trained  hound,  opening  a  loud 
bark  at  every  jump  of  the  deer  and  bringing  him  on  to  us 
in  fine  style.  Gillis  was  armed  with  a  double-barrelled 
shotgun,  loaded  with  buckshot.  I  had  a  long  rifle  in 
which  I  put  eight  buckshot.  Knowing  that  Gillis  was 
better  armed  than  I,  and  a  good  shot,  I  placed  him  in 
advance  in  a  little  clump  of  bushes  and  pointed  out  to  him 
where  the  deer  would  probably  run.  I  charged  him  not 
to  fire  till  the  deer  reached  a  certain  point,  while  I  took 
my  stand  in  his  rear.  Gillis  had  never  killed  a  deer  and 
I  really  wanted  to  give  him  the  opportunity,  but  the  noble 
animal  came  on  so  beautifully  that  I  covered  him  with  my 
rifle  before  he  reached  the  point  at  which  I  had  directed 
Gillis  to  fire,  and  to  pull  my  trigger  was  irresistible.  To 
my  delight,  but  to  Gillis's  cruel  disappointment,  the  buck 
tumbled  over.  Gillis  was  chagrined  beyond  expression, 
and  turning  to  me  said  in  a  deplorable  way,  "Kell,  how 
could  you  treat  me  so?"  Of  course,  I  was  ashamed,  and 
my  only  excuse  was  that  "we  were  very  short  of  rations," 
and  I  had  such  a  dead  shot  on  him  I  had  to  shoot; 
but  I  do  not  think  Gillis  ever  quite  forgave  me.  We  sent 
for  Gillis's  old  horse,  and  throwing  the  deer  across  we 
took  him  to  the  house,  and  that  day  enjoyed  fine  venison 
steaks  for  dinner,  which  I  hoped  would  somewhat  soothe 
the  hunter's  ire.  That  was  the  only  opportunity  Gillis 
and  I  ever  had  to  shoot  a  deer  while  in  Texas,  and  even  at 
this  late  day  I  would  be  pleased  to  know  if  Gillis  ever  shot 
a  deer,  for  he  was  a  most  enthusiastic  Nimrod,  and  withal 
an  excellent  shot. 

Our  little  station,  the  mouth  of  the  Brazos  River,  which 
then  had  only  the  summer  home  of  Governor  Winston  to 
distinguish  it,  has  at  this  writing  grown  into  a  city  of  con- 
siderable trade  and  importance,  bearing  the  name  of 
Brazos  City,  this  change  no  doubt  having  been  brought 
about  by  the  Eads  jetty  system  in  deepening  the  entrance 
to  this  magnificent  stream.  Previous  to  this  hunt  I  had 
enjoyed  with  Mr.  Brown,  a  Georgian,  but  then  a  resident 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  99 

of  Quintana,  Texas,  a  very  exciting  chase  with  his  grey- 
hounds, five  in  number.  As  the  chase  of  the  greyhound 
is  exclusively  by  sight,  the  hunt  is  usually  participated  in 
after  the  burning  off  of  the  prairies  for  the  benefit  of  the 
stock  that  feed  upon  these  prairies.  Being  well  mounted, 
the  hounds  followed  us  apparently  conscious  of  the  sport 
that  awaited  them,  and  gladly  anticipating  it.  One  of  the 
dogs,  named  "Queen,"  a  graceful,  handsome  creature,  was 
the  favorite  of  her  master,  and  she  seemed  to  understand 
his  every  movement.  After  a  few  miles'  ride  we  sighted 
a  noble  buck  and  approached  him  from  the  leeward,  so  as 
to  avoid  his  scenting  us.  When  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  the  noble  animal  Mr.  Brown  beckoned  to  Queen; 
she  readily  obeyed,  and  coming  to  his  horse's  side  leaped 
up  on  the  pommel  of  his  saddle  to  obtain  a  distant  view, 
when  Mr.  Brown  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  deer,  she 
at  once  took  in  the  object,  sprang  to  the  ground  and  was 
off  like  a  flash;  leading  the  pack  of  dogs,  she  gave  chase 
in  the  direction  of  the  game.  The  buck  bounded  to  his 
feet,  making  playful  leaps  as  if  gamboling  for  his  own 
amusement.  The  dogs  became  very  much  excited  at  his 
appearance  and  commenced  their  earnest  work  of  the 
chase,  when  their  near  approach  put  the  buck  to  his  best 
speed,  and  off  they  flew  across  the  prairie.  We  put  spurs 
to  our  horses  and  at  first  attempted  to  keep  up  with  them. 
We  soon  found,  however,  that  the  dogs  could  outrun  us 
on  a  long  chase,  so  reining  in  our  horses  to  enjoy  the  sport, 
we  watched  with  intense  interest  their  race  until  a  slight 
elevation  carried  them  out  of  sight.  The  last  we  saw  of 
the  deer  the  dogs  were  almost  up  with  him,  and  we  quietly 
waited  to  see  what  the  result  would  be.  In  about  an  hour 
they  came  back  to  us,  showing  evidence  of  having  caught 
the  deer,  their  jaws  reeking  with  blood.  We  failed  to 
secure  the  game,  but  enjoyed  the  sport.  This  was  the 
first  time  I  ever  witnessed  the  sport  of  "coursing  with 
greyhounds."  Their  speed  was  something  remarkable. 
The  fishing  there  was  also  very  successful  and  abundant. 


100  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

We  could  at  any  time  catch  quantities  of  red  fish  or  snap- 
pers, which  added  to  our  larder  and  comfort  as  well  as  our 
sport.  Cedar  Lake,  near  which  we  were  stationed,  was 
only  a  little  distance  from  the  village  of  Quintana,  and  was 
in  consequence  quite  a  resort  for  picnics  and  pleasure  par- 
ties, and  I  was  often  subject  to  surprises  by  calls  from 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  horseback  riding  being  a  great 
diversion  in  those  days,  and  they  always  insisted  on  my 
joining  them  in  their  pleasant  pastime  when  not  strictly 
"on  duty."  Taking  it  all  in  all  our  situation,  however, 
was  often  lonely  and  monotonous,  the  schooner  sometimes 
drifting  from  us  and  leaving  Gillis  and  I  miles  apart,  with 
only  a  sailor  man  to  wait  upon  us.  After  I  left  my  eight-by- 
ten  shanty  and  moved  some  thirty  miles  or  more  and  took 
up  quarters  in  Governor  Winston's  unoccupied  house  I 
used  sometimes  to  have  company.  Governor  Winston 
and  his  brother  came  to  see  after  the  planting  of  a  sum- 
mer garden  and  spent  a  couple  of  weeks  with  me.  They 
were  very  pleasant  gentlemen  and  I  did  enjoy  their  com- 
pany. About  this  time,  or  a  little  later,  I  had  quite 
a  sick  turn  with  chills  and  fever,  and  by  the  doctor's 
advice  went  on  board  the  schooner  that  he  might  look 
after  my  health.  I  went  in  the  schooner  to  the  city 
of  Galveston,  where  she  was  going  for  supplies.  I  soon 
recovered.  While  in  Galveston  I  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  the  Menard  family.  Mrs.  Menard,  formerly  of 
the  city  of  Macon  (like  myself,  a  Georgian),  was  a  leader 
in  society  here  and  had  a  charming  young  daughter,  for 
whose  pleasure  a  large  masquerade  ball  was  given,  which 
Dr.  Martin  (of  the  ship)  and  I  attended.  Not  being  in 
time  to  procure  fancy  costumes,  we  had  that  of  monks 
prepared,  and  being  exactly  alike  in  dress  and  very  simi- 
lar in  size,  we  had  a  merry  time  in  confusing  our  partners 
in  the  dance  by  occasional  exchange.  I  think  there  are 
scenes  that  stand  out  in  relief,  as  it  were,  in  one's  memory, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  101 

and  this  evening  of  merriment  I  have  often  looked  back 
upon  with  pleasure. 

Dr.  Martin  was  quite  a  naturalist  in  his  tastes.  He 
took  great  interest  in  collecting  insects,  birds,  reptiles, 
etc.,  and  he  also  interested  his  messmates  in  this  subject 
and  we  were  pleased  to  contribute  to  his  collection,  espe- 
cially we  who  had  a  good  opportunity  on  shore.  One 
day  I  caught  a  rare  snake  of  very  brilliant  coloring,  and 
knowing  what  a  treasure  he  would  be  to  the  doctor,  I 
pinioned  him  to  the  ground  till  I  could  go  to  the  house 
and  get  a  wide-mouthed  pickle  jar  in  which  to  imprison 
him.  When  I  returned  I  dexterously  induced  his  snake- 
ship  to  enter  the  bottle,  where  he  coiled  himself,  where- 
upon I  placed  the  cork  very  securely,  as  I  thought,  leav- 
ing a  small  airhole  through  which  he  could  breathe.  I 
then  placed  him  in  all  confidence  on  my  table,  quite  an 
ornament  in  the  eyes  of  a  naturalist.  The  next  morning 
to  my  dismay  the  bottle  was  empty !  I  supposed,  or  very 
naturally  hoped,  he  had  made  his  escape  through  the  door 
of  my  cabin,  for  it  was  not  very  agreeable  to  think  he  was 
occupying  my  quarters  with  me.  I  tried  to  banish  the 
thought  of  him  from  my  mind,  yet  I  found  myself  looking 
for  him  all  the  while  when  not  busily  engaged  otherwise. 
The  next  evening  I  was  seated  at  the  table  writing  when 
to  my  amazement  and  horror  I  heard  a  rustling  noise  in 
the  rafters  above  my  head  and  the  next  moment  down 
came  the  snake  on  my  paper!  It  took  me  a  very  short 
time  (though  I  was  quite  nervous)  to  decapitate  him,  and 
that  was  the  last  time  I  attempted  to  capture  a  snake  for 
the  doctor's  valuable  collection.  Not  being  very  success- 
ful with  these  wily  reptiles,  in  future  I  assisted  the  doctor 
in  getting  some  living  creatures  less  venomous  but  even 
more  curious.  I  think  our  next  capture  was  a  couple  or 
more  of  the  horned  frogs  of  Texas. 

The  constant  observations  being  very  injurious  to  sight, 
and  the  advanced  summer  season,  made  it  necessary  for 


102  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

us  to  abandon  our  survey.  My  eyes  were  so  affected  that 
they  had  to  be  bandaged  to  avoid  the  light.  Captain  De 
Haven  suffered  extremely  in  the  same  way.  On  the  first 
day  of  June  we  sailed  for  Philadelphia.  After  a  smooth 
and  delightful  voyage  we  arrived  at  the  Navy  Yard  and 
hauled  our  little  schooner  alongside  the  dock.  Captain 
De  Haven  went  to  his  home  in  the  city.  Mr.  Gillis's 
young  and  charming  wife  was  awaiting  him  at  the  hotel, 
where  he  joined  her.  Dr.  Martin  and  Midshipman  Liv- 
ingstone left  for  their  homes,  and  I  remained  in  the  city  to 
bring  up  the  survey  with  the  captain.  This  work  occupied 
us  for  three  months. 

In  Philadelphia  I  met  my  cousin,  James  McQueen 
Mcintosh,  stationed  at  the  rendezvous  there,  preparatory 
to  service  in  the  distant  West,  he  being  an  officer  in  the 
United  States  Army  and  a  graduate  of  West  Point  several 
years  previous  to  this  time.  His  father,  Col.  James  Sim- 
mons Mcintosh,  was  a  gallant  and  distinguished  officer  in 
the  Army  and  lost  his  life  for  his  country  in  the  Mexican 
War.  James  was  very  enthusiastic  in  the  profession  he 
had  chosen,  and  loved  it  by  right  of  inheritance,  as  it  were, 
and  was  "every  inch  a  soldier."  We  had  many  happy 
hours  together  and  many  delightful  drives  and  rambles  in 
the  beautiful  Wissahickon  Valley  and  other  surroundings 
of  the  city  of  "Brotherly  Love,"  our  own  hearts  drawn  to 
each  other  by  ties  of  blood  and  clanship  in  the  distance 
of  the  past.  James  afterward  married  a  Virginia  lady, 
and  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war  between  the  States 
resigned  from  the  United  States  Army  and  tendered  his 
services  to  the  Confederacy.  He  lost  his  noble  life  at  the 
battle  of  Pea  Ridge,  having  risen  to  the  rank  of  brigadier- 
general,  and  was  second  in  command  to  General  McCul- 
lough.  They  were  killed  within  a  few  minutes  of  each 
other,  and  surely  no  more  heroic  blood  was  shed  as  a  liba- 
tion to  the  sacred  "lost  cause"  her  sons  so  dearly  cherish ! 
This  was  one  of  the  manv  sad  incidents  in  the  late  Civil 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  103 

War  in  which  brother  fought  against  brother,  for  James's 
brother,  John  Baillie  Mcintosh,  was  a  gallant  soldier  in 
the  Federal  service  and  lost  a  leg  in  the  battle  of  Opequan, 
Virginia.  For  his  bravery  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank 
of  Major-General,  and  lived  for  many  years  after  the  war 
ended  to  enjoy  the  honors  and  distinctions  conferred  by 
the  winning  side  of  his  grateful  country. 


Chapter  XV 

In  October,  1856,  I  procured  a  leave  of  absence  and 
came  to  Macon,  Georgia,  to  be  married  to  Miss  Julia 
Blanche  Munroe,  which  happy  event  took  place  on  the 
fifteenth  day  of  the  month,  in  Christ's  Church,  Macon, 
my  relative,  Rev.  Henry  K.  Rees,  officiating.  Having 
been  entitled  by  previous  long-continued  sea  service  to  a 
generous  leave  of  absence,  we  entered  upon  a  winter  of 
great  gaiety  and  enjoyment.  After  a  few  days  of  pleasure 
in  Macon,  made  bright  by  receptions  and  parties,  we  vis- 
ited my  home  on  the  seaboard  and  were  entertained  by 
my  relatives  and  friends  in  the  hospitable  manner  known 
to  that  period  and  section.  Elegant  dinner  parties,  dances 
in  the  evenings,  a  regatta  given  in  our  honor  by  Hon. 
Thomas  Forman,  of  Broughton  Island,  and  a  ten  days' 
entertainment  of  seventy  guests  at  the  home  of  Randolph 
Spalding  on  Sapelo  Island.  Such  an  entertainment 
savored  of  baronial  times.  The  spacious  rooms  in  the 
grand  old  Tabby  house  were  occupied  by  the  ladies,  while 
the  gentlemen  were  quartered  in  tents  under  the  grand 
old  live  oak  trees  which  surrounded  the  house.  A  beau- 
tiful Indian  summer,  "autumn's  carnival,"  reigned  su- 
preme. Amusements  of  all  kinds  during  the  day — driv- 
ing, riding,  with  walks  on  the  beach,  and  deer  hunting  for 
the  gentlemen  who  liked  the  chase.  The  evenings  were 
given  up  to  dancing,  with  a  fine  band  of  musicians  from 
Savannah  to  furnish  the  music.  The  sumptuous  table, 
supplied  with  all  the  good  things  of  land  and  sea,  was  set 
at  any  and  all  hours — a  perpetual  feast. 

The  regatta  to  which  I  alluded  was  a  typical  scene  of 
sport  entered  into  by  the  rice  planters  of  Georgia.  The 
four  boats  in  the  race  were  famous  for  their  speed,  and 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  105 

were  owned  by  Mr.  James  Hamilton  Couper,  Mr.  Forman, 
Dr.  Brailsford  Troup,  and  my  relative,  Randolph  Spalding. 
There  was  assembled  on  this  occasion  all  the  elite  of  the 
coast — the  beautiful  daughters  of  Hon.  T.  Butler  King, 
the  Misses  Troup,  the  Misses  Hazelhurst,  the  charming 
daughters  of  Hugh  Grant,  Esq. — all  belles  and  beauties — 
and  indeed  all  the  families  that  made  the  seaboard  society 
so  delightful.  One  peculiar  feature  attending  this  boat 
race  gave  rise  to  a  very  appropriate  anecdote  which  I  re- 
lated upon  my  first  visit  after  the  war  to  the  North  in  the 
year  1868  or  '69  to  a  party  of  gentlemen  in  New  York,  in 
the  law  office  of  my  cousin,  Hon.  John  E.  Ward,  and  his 
partners,  Mr.  Whitehead  and  Mr.  Jones.  Mr.  Jones  was 
a  Georgian,  but  Mr.  Whitehead  a  Northerner  and  a  leader 
in  the  Republican  party.  One  of  the  gentlemen  asked 
me  "how  affairs  were  progressing  under  reconstruction 
rule  in  Georgia?"  I  replied  that  "the  bottom  rail  was  on 
top  now,"  and  I  could  illustrate  it  by  telling  them  an  inci- 
dent of  the  class  that  were  now  prominent  in  the  Legisla- 
ture of  the  State.  I  then  told  them  of  the  regatta  that 
had  taken  place  a  few  years  before,  when  the  negroes  were 
in  the  rice  fields  at  work  when  the  race  was  going  on.  Upon 
hearing  the  loud  cheering  and  hurrahing  of  Mr.  Forman, 
who  always  became  very  much  excited  during  a  regatta, 
one  negro  remarked  to  the  other,  "Dar,  now,  Massa  boat 
beat,  Massa  boat  beat !"  "How  you  know  Massa  boat 
beat?"  inquired  the  second  darkey.  "Cause,"  said  the 
first,  "don't  you  heah  Massa  holler?"  "Yes,  but  don't 
you  know  Massa  holler  beat  or  no  beat?"  "That  is  the 
element  now  ahead  in  Georgia  helping  to  make  the  laws 
in  my  native  State." 

But  I  digress,  and  my  thoughts  have  wandered  from  the 
happy  time  when  there  was  no  dream  of  war  or  future 
trouble  of  any  kind;  when  we  thought  ourselves  living 
under  the  happiest  government  the  world  had  ever  seen ! 
In  the  spring  of  1857  I  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Nor- 
folk, Virginia,  on  board  the  Receiving  Ship  Pennsylvania, 


106  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

which  duty  was  not  very  arduous,  allowing  me  two  days 
on  board  ship  on  duty  and  two  days  on  shore.  This  being 
a  famous  naval  station,  I  met  many  old  friends,  who  wel- 
comed me  with  my  bride  with  true  Virginia  hospitality. 
My  friends  vied  with  each  other  in  paying  us  many  atten- 
tions. Jack  Cooper  and  his  estimable  wife  gave  us  a 
charming  reception  at  his  house,  where  the  whole  Navy 
society  of  Norfolk  were  invited  to  meet  us.  The  United 
States  Surveying  Steamer  Hctzel  came  into  Norfolk  hav- 
ing on  board  my  old  friends  R.  D.  Minor,  Dr.  Fahs  and 
Bayard  Hand,  of  Georgia.  They  insisted  upon  giving,  in 
honor  of  my  bride,  a  party  or  ball  on  board  the  Hetzel. 
This  was  a  very  brilliant  affair.  The  decks  were  cleared 
for  dancing  and  decorated  in  true  man-of-war  style,  being 
enclosed  with  flags  of  different  nations  and  brilliantly 
lighted  with  chandeliers  constructed  from  bayonets,  etc., 
which  was  all  meant  to  be  a  very  impressive  welcome  to  a 
sailor's  bride.  Here  were  assembled  many  of  the  old 
Navy  families — the  Whittles,  the  Sinclairs,  the  Carters, 
the  Pegrams,  the  Spotswoods,  and  others.  Norfolk  was 
for  many  months  a  delightful  abiding  place  for  us. 

In  the  fall  of  this  year  I  received  orders  to  the  United 
States  Store  Ship  Supply,  making  in  her  two  trips  to  Brazil 
with  stores  to  the  South  American  Squadron.  The 
Supply  was  commanded  by  Captain  Gray,  a  very  nice  gen- 
tleman, but  having  a  few  peculiarities  that  are  common  to 
elderly  bachelors,  though  withal  a  very  genial,  pleasant 
companion.  Aaron  K.  Hughes  was  first  lieutenant;  I, 
second  lieutenant,  and  James  H.  Gillis,  my  old  companion 
of  the  Coast  Survey,  third  lieutenant.  Dr.  Horwitz,  the 
surgeon,  was  a  very  clever  gentleman,  and  to  him  I  became 
much  attached  during  our  intimacy  on  board  ship.  The 
voyage  was  one  quite  devoid  of  interest  or  incident,  carry- 
ing salt  beef  and  pork,  hard  tack,  and  other  rations  that 
make  up  a  sailor's  menu,  for  the  Brazil  Squadron.  Brazil 
(as  I  think  I  have  mentioned  before)  was  in  that  day  a  fine 
country,  whose  emperor  had  at  heart  the  advancement  of 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  107 

his  empire  and  the  good  of  his  people.  Both  Dom  Pedro 
and  his  Empress  Amalia  were  beloved  sovereigns.  Upon 
arriving  at  Rio  we  found  the  yellow  fever  rife.  The  squad- 
ron had  gone  down  to  the  river  La  Platte.  When  we 
entered  the  port  the  health  officer,  an  old  physician  whom 
most  of  us  had  met  before,  boarded  our  ship,  and  after 
saluting  us,  cordially  remarked :  "Gentlemen,  you  should 
board  me,  instead  of  my  asking  after  the  health  of  your 
ship.  Yellow  fever  is  decimating  the  ship's  crews  in  this 
harbor,  and  if  you  remain  a  week  in  port  you  will  not  have 
enough  men  left  to  weigh  anchor."  At  the  same  time  he 
pointed  out  a  number  of  ships  that  he  said  "had  only 
watchmen  on  board,  the  crews  having  all  died,  or  the  few 
that  remained  been  removed  to  hospitals  on  shore."  This 
was  a  very  depressing  state  of  affairs.  It  was  very  per- 
ceptible, even  on  the  face  of  Nature.  There  was  a  heavy 
cloud  overhanging  the  city,  and  the  absence  of  the  brisk 
sea  breeze  enlivening  the  bay  with  the  sail  crafts  moving 
back  and  forth  was  very  noticeable.  Our  orders,  how- 
ever, were  peremptory  to  proceed  to  Rio  and  land  stores, 
and  our  captain  did  not  hesitate  to  carry  out  his  instruc- 
tions, so  we  continued  to  our  anchorage  off  the  plague- 
stricken  city.  We  were  soon  visited  by  a  messenger  from 
the  consulate  bringing  us  dispatches  from  the  commodore 
saying  "the  squadron  had  left  for  Montevideo  and  to  follow 
without  delay."  This  was  a  great  relief  to  us,  and  early 
the  next  morning  we  took  advantage  of  the  nauseous  land 
breeze  and  left  for  a  healthier  atmosphere.  Although  our 
stay  was  very  short  (one  night  only)  in  the  infected  port, 
yellow  fever  showed  itself  among  our  crew  as  soon  as  we 
reached  the  pure  air  of  the  broad  Atlantic,  which  is  a  char- 
acteristic of  this  disease,  developing  itself  more  rapidly 
when  the  victim  is  removed  to  purer  air.  We  had  no 
fatal  cases,  however,  and  were  soon  in  usual  health. 

Montevideo  is  the  Capital  of  Uruguay  and  is  situated 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  river  La  Platte,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  which  at  this  point  is  seventy  miles  wide.     The 


108  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

city  is  built  on  an  elevated  peninsula  forming  an  anchor- 
age in  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe  opening  to  the  westward 
and  subject  to  violent  storms  called  "pamparos,"  which 
blow  across  the  prairies.  The  first  breezes  show  the  vio- 
lence of  the  coming  storm  by  the  cobwebs  caught  in  the 
rigging,  which  indication  warns  the  prudent  mariner  to 
send  down  all  his  yards  and  house  topmast,  and  depend 
solely  on  his  ground  tackle  for  the  safety  of  his  ship.  The 
experience  of  one  of  these  blows  during  our  stay  made 
a  hero  of  our  junior  lieutenant,  James  H.  Gillis.  Gillis 
was  on  shore  when  the  storm  came  up,  as  were  a  number 
of  other  officers  of  the  ship,  together  with  boats  and  their 
crews  from  ships  in  the  harbor,  which  could  not  pretend 
to  pull  against  the  violence  of  the  storm  to  reach  their 
vessels.  At  this  juncture  the  cry  of  alarm  spread 
through  the  city  that  a  schooner  had  sunk  on  the 
sea-face  of  the  city  and  the  crew  were  clinging  to  the  mast- 
head for  their  lives,  in  momentary  danger  of  being  swept 
away,  as  the  sea  was  breaking  over  them.  The  entire 
populace  rushed  to  the  scene  of  danger.  Gillis  in  his  en- 
thusiastic ardor  conceived  the  idea  of  saving  them,  and 
returning  to  the  mole,  or  landing  place  of  the  boats,  called 
out  for  "volunteers  to  go  with  him  to  rescue  those  drown- 
ing men !"  At  once  a  dozen  or  more  stalwart  seamen 
stepped  to  the  front.  From  them  he  selected  six,  manned 
the  whaleboat,  and  taking  the  steering  oar  in  his  hand 
shoved  bravely  off,  facing  the  storm.  All  eyes  were  now 
riveted  upon  Gillis  and  his  bold  boat's  crew,  who  were  risk- 
ing their  lives  to  save  their  fellow-beings.  To  the  great 
joy  of  his  brother  officers  Gillis  managed  his  boat  beauti- 
fully, keeping  her  head  always  to  the  sea,  and  gradually 
pulling  around  the  point  of  the  peninsula  till  he  got  in  po- 
sition to  drop  down  with  the  bows  still  facing  the  storm, 
till  he  fell  to  leeward  of  the  schooner's  mast,  when  one  by 
one  he  rescued  the  men  from  their  perilous  position.  He 
laid  them  clown  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  apparently  more 
dead  than  alive.    The  stalwart  seamen  began  their  difficult 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  109 

task  of  pulling  again  to  windward  in  order  to  round  the 
point  of  the  peninsula  and  secure  their  landing  at  the  mole. 
When  the  last  man  was  taken  down  the  cheers  of  the  mul- 
titude on  shore  were  very  encouraging  to  the  life-savers, 
and  when  the  boat  landed  Gillis  was  lifted  upon  the  shoul- 
ders of  some  of  the  most  prominent  citizens  and  carried  in 
triumph  to  the  hotel  amid  the  cries  of  "Make  way  for  the 
brave  American !"  in  Spanish.  Our  purser,  a  bluff  old  fel- 
low who  had  recently  passed  through  the  bloody  border 
warfare  in  Kansas,  threw  a  damper  on  all  this  wild  scene 
of  enthusiasm  by  exclaiming,  "Why,  what  is  all  this  about? 
What  has  Gillis  clone?"  but  this  did  not  detract  from  the 
daring  and  bravery  of  his  action.  Gillis  was  presented 
with  a  very  handsome  gold-bound  album,  with  the  names 
and  thanks  of  all  the  prominent  citizens  of  Montevideo, 
and  the  grateful  thanks  by  letter  of  the  government  to 
which  the  schooner  belonged.  This  gift  I  doubt  not  is,  as 
it  should  be,  an  heirloom  and  treasure  to  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren. 

It  was  on  this  cruise  that  I  remember  witnessing  for  the 
last  time  a  time-honored  custom,  then  even  almost  obso- 
lete. It  was  the  visit  of  Neptune  and  his  suite  to  a  ship 
about  crossing  the  equatorial  line.  It  is  ostensibly  for 
the  purpose  of  "christening  all  young  sailors  who  are  for 
the  first  time  passing  from  one  hemisphere  to  the  other, 
after  which  initiation  they  are  ever  thereafter  entitled  to 
roam  old  ocean  as  one  of  Neptune's  own."  On  board  of 
our  vessels  of  war,  if  permission  was  granted  by  the  captain, 
the  crew  would  get  up  a  very  fair  and  creditable  perform- 
ance. Neptune  on  this  occasion  was  personated  by  one 
of  the  oldest  sailors,  a  veritable  "Jack  Tar"  of  the  olden 
time,  with  a  great  curling  wig  and  an  immense  beard  of 
rope  yarn,  bearing  in  his  hand  his  trident,  and  drawn  aft 
upon  the  deck  in  his  car  of  state,  fitted  out  of  a  gun-car- 
riage. He  was  accompanied  by  eight  or  ten  of  the  stout- 
est seamen  as  attendants  to  execute  his  will.  After  salut- 
ing the  officer  of  the  deck  he  asked  "permission  to  examine 


110  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

♦ 
the  crew4that  he  might  learn  if  there  were  any  on  board 
that  ship  to  be  christened."  Of  course  his  attendants 
knew  all  who  had  never  before  crossed  the  line  and  began 
immediate  search  for  the  victims.  They  were  brought 
up  by  force  into  the  presence  of  "His  Majesty"  and  a  few 
questions  of  form  put  to  them.  "His  Majesty"  then  or- 
dered them  to  be  first  shaved,  next  christened.  The 
attendant  who  acted  as  Neptune's  barber  then  lathered 
the  face  and  beard  most  thoroughly  with  tar,  and  with  a 
huge  wooden  razor  scraped  the  face  vigorously.  He  was 
then  plunged  in  a  boat  filled  with  salt  water,  and  rising 
from  this  presented  a  most  forlorn  and  deplorable  picture, 
and  all  hands  saluted  him  as  an  old  tar,  the  son  of  the  great 
Neptune,  to  the  merry  enjoyment  of  his  brother  sailors. 

It  is  a  privilege  to  the  mariner,  especially  to  one  who  is 
fond  of  astronomy,  to  visit  the  southern  latitudes  and  view 
the  starlit  heavens.  The  "Southern  Cross"  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  constellations  here.  Only  those  who 
"follow  the  sea  in  ships"  can  realize  the  wonders  and  gran- 
deur of  the  deep,  and  surely  nothing  can  more  deeply  im- 
press the  thinking  mind  with  belief  in  the  Great  Creator, 
"who  holds  it  all  as  in  the  hollow  of  His  hand,  whose  voice 
the  winds  and  the  sea  obey." 

One  day  while  it  was  blowing  quite  a  gale  and  we  were 
perhaps  a  hundred  miles  or  more  from  land  a  swarm  of 
butterflies  swept  over  our  deck.  They  were  too  sprightly 
to  be  caught,  but  as  the  wind  was  blowing  favorably  for 
their  resistless  voyage  they  no  doubt  found  their  way 
safely  to  shore. 

Upon  first  arriving  at  Montevideo,  having  been  one 
hundred  and  five  days  on  ship  with  but  a  two  hours'  visit 
to  the  shore  at  Porta  Praya,  we  determined — Dr.  Horwitz, 
Lieutenant  Gillis  and  I — upon  a  walk.  We  trigged  off  in 
our  best  citizens'  clothes,  got  in  a  boat  and  pulled  for  the 
shore,  a  mile  distant.  We  were  pleased  to  find  here  a 
nicely  constructed  iron  wharf,  the  building  of  which,  we 
afterward  learned  with  regret,  had  caused  the  failure  of 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  111 

the  enterprising  Englishman  who  ventured  its  construc- 
tion. He  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  so  favored  a 
city  would  rapidly  increase  in  trade,  and  visions  of  immense 
profits  rose  before  him;  but  "Dame  Fortune"  often  disap- 
points the  most  sanguine  of  her  votaries,  and  very  soon 
after  the  poor  Englishman  finished  his  wharf  a  revolution 
broke  out  which  lasted  for  years,  trade  ceased,  and  his 
investment  paid  little  or  nothing.  The  custom  house 
there  was  quite  an  imposing  structure.  The  immense 
cathedral  which  so  impressed  us  with  its  grandeur  from  a 
distance  was  disappointing  on  a  nearer  approach.  The 
constant  revolutions  had  prevented  its  completion  and  the 
outside  walls  were  rough  and  unfinished.  The  interior, 
however,  was  in  better  condition,  presenting  a  wide  aisle 
with  immense  columns  on  either  side,  and  a  beautiful  ro- 
tunda. The  walls  were  hung  with  rich  paintings  of  the 
Virgin  Mary  and  our  Saviour,  and  wax  figures  of  the  dif- 
ferent saints.  One  of  the  fine  paintings  was  said  to  be  a 
very  rare  production  of  art,  and  was  a  gift  to  the  church 
from  Louis  XIII.  of  France.  We  chanced  to  be  in  Monte- 
video during  the  "Holy  Season"  or  "Passion  Week,"  and 
as  in  all  other  Roman  Catholic  countries  it  was  most 
sacredly  observed.  On  Good  Friday  every  good  church- 
man and  woman  habited  themselves  in  deepest  mourning 
and  spent  the  day  in  going  from  church  to  church  and 
from  service  to  service.  This  is  kept  up  till  the  following 
Sunday,  when  the  mourning  is  turned  into  joy  and  upon  the 
Ascension  of  the  Risen  Saviour  all  is  gladness.  In  the 
aisles  and  upon  the  altar,  and  indeed  throughout  the  im- 
mense cathedral,  were  huge  silver  candlesticks  and  can- 
delabra with  lighted  candles,  giving  an  effect  of  great 
beauty,  and  the  thronging  masses  of  heart-filled  worship- 
ers— some  kneeling  before  the  Holy  Mother,  some  kiss- 
ing the  golden  girdle  on  the  image  of  her  more  Holy 
Son — was  truly  a  grand  and  impressive  sight,  even  to 
those  outside  the  pale  of  Rome's  communion. 


112  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

There  was  one  pleasure  we  enjoyed  at  Montevideo,  and 
that  was  the  privilege  of  the  reading  room,  always  open 
to  us.  Strolling  into  this  sanctum  one  day  I  took  a 
lounge,  and  seating  myself  comfortably  with  the  leading 
papers  of  Europe  and  America  before  me,  whiled  away 
some  leisure  hours.  There  was  much  news  of  interest, 
giving  the  progress  of  the  wars  in  India  and  China;  the 
murderous  attempt  by  a  lot  of  Italian  assassins  on  the  life 
of  the  Emperor  Napoleon ;  the  launching  of  the  Leviathan, 
the  immense  sea  steamer  built  by  England,  six  hundred 
feet  in  length,  the  successful  navigation  of  which  was  ex- 
pected to  revolutionize  the  commercial  world.  The  Eng- 
lish papers  were  filled  with  particulars  of  the  festivities  to 
take  place  upon  the  approaching  marriage  of  the  Princess 
Royal  Victoria  of  England  to  Prince  Frederick  William  of 
Prussia.  In  looking  back  upon  these  items  of  news,  then 
filling  the  papers,  one  is  startlingly  reminded  of  the 
changes  time  can  make,  of  the  mutations,  and,  after  all, 
the  vanity  and  briefness  of  human  life. 


Chapter  XVI 

Learning  that  the  fever  had  abated  in  Brazil,  it  was 
now  our  great  pleasure  to  leave  for  Rio,  as  upon  the 
delivery  of  our  stores  depended  our  speedy  return  to  the 
United  States  and  our  homes  and  families.  We  reached 
Rio  safely,  and  instead  of  the  death  pall  that  was  shroud- 
ing it  in  our  few  hours'  detention  on  our  way  out,  the  city 
seemed  restored  to  the  vigor  of  health.  Trade  was  brisk, 
and  air  and  breezes  delightful. 

Brazil  is  the  country  for  diamonds,  and  I  took  the  oppor- 
tunity to  select  one.  Captain  Grey  was  a  connoisseur  in 
gems,  and  offered  to  accompany  me,  which  offer  I  gladly 
accepted.  We  found  our  way  to  the  largest  dealer  in 
stones.  He  proved  to  be  an  officer  in  the  Brazilian  Army, 
who  took  the  opportunity  while  stationed  at  the  diamond 
mines  to  make  some  very  choice  selections.  We  were 
ushered  into  his  rooms,  where  we  were  fairly  dazzled  with 
the  wealth  and  brilliancy  that  surrounded  us.  Diamonds 
were  grouped  in  parcels  on  tables  or  stands  all  around  the 
room.  Upon  discussing  and  admiring  the  beauty  of  the 
gems,  the  officer  asked  "if  we  had  ever  seen  a  black  dia- 
mond?" He  said  "they  were  very  rare,  but  not  to  be  com- 
pared to  the  others,  and  if  we  would  excuse  him,  he  would 
go  into  his  wife's  room,  as  she  had  a  fine  black  diamond 
he  would  like  us  to  see."  He  deliberately  walked  out, 
leaving  us  two  strangers  to  himself  surrounded  by  dia- 
monds! The  captain  turned  to  me  and  remarked,  "Kell, 
that  is  a  very  trusting  man,  or  he  has  a  detective  with  his 
eye  on  us,  and  our  situation  is  not  a  pleasant  one."  The 
merchant  soon  returned  with  his  wife's  rare  gem,  holding 
it  up  for  our  admiration.  It  did  not  equal  in  beauty  the 
ones  we  had  been  examining,  as  we  admitted.     The  cap- 


114  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

tain  remarked  to  the  merchant  that  "he  was  surprised  at 
his  leaving  us  two  strangers  to  him  with  his  valuable  pos- 
sessions surrounding  us."  He  smiled  complacently  and 
said,  "Ah,  gentlemen,  I  know  whom  to  trust."  I  made  a 
selection  and  he  had  it  set  for  me. 

Brazil  is  also  famous  for  the  beautiful  work  done  in 
feathers.  From  the  natural  feathers,  so  exquisitely  and 
highly  colored,  the  nuns  make  flowers — the  camellia  ja- 
ponica  and  carnations  being  among  the  handsomest.  The 
birds  of  this  latitude  are  very  gorgeous  and  beautiful.  The 
charming  little  humming  bird  is  a  marvel  from  its  great 
variety,  there  being  several  very  distinct  kinds.  I  pro- 
cured a  handsome  bunch  of  the  flowers,  and  a  few  of  the 
little  stuffed  birds  to  poise  upon  them  to  make  the  bou- 
quet complete.  The  butterflies  and  beetles  here  are 
simply  gorgeous.  Insect  life  is  here  seen  in  its  most  beau- 
tiful aspect,  and  it  seems  to  me  one  must  acquire  in  Brazil 
the  tastes  of  a  naturalist  if  their  eyes  and  hearts  are  open 
to  take  in  the  beautiful  handiwork  of  Nature's  God. 

Our  officers  were  invited  by  the  French  Minister  to  at- 
tend the  "Te  Deums"  to  be  offered  for  the  preservation  of 
the  lives  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  the  French  in 
the  late  attempted  assassination.  I  did  not  leave  the  ship, 
it  being  my  day's  duty  on  board,  but  it  was,  I  learned,  a 
grand  occasion,  all  officers  from  all  the  ships  in  the  harbor 
appearing  in  full  dress  uniforms  to  do  full  justice  to  this 
occasion  for  thankfulness. 

Even  the  beauties  and  diversions  of  a  foreign  country 
became  wearisome  to  hearts  growing  anxious  for  a  sight 
of  their  native  land  and  reunion  with  families  and  friends, 
and  it  was  with  great  rejoicing  that  we  found  our  stores 
all  landed  and  the  orders  given  to  set  sail  "homeward 
bound."  Our  voyage  home  was  quite  eventless,  except 
that  our  patience  was  often  sorely  tried  by  the  calms  we 
encountered ;  but  the  month  of  July  found  us  safely  landed 
in  New  York  harbor,  from  which  port  we  had  sailed  eight 
months  before.     Home  and  happiness !     Oh,  dwellers  on 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  115 

the  land,  can  you  imagine,  or,  far  more,  can  you  appre- 
ciate, the  joy  of  a  sailor's  welcome  home?  But  this  joy 
was  to  be  of  short  duration — only  three  short  weeks.  I 
found  I  could  not  be  detached  from  the  Store  Ship  Supply 
and  have  it  count  as  a  two  years'  cruise  to  me  unless  I 
made  the  second  trip  in  her.  Late  in  September  I  re- 
turned to  the  Brooklyn  Navy  Yard,  and  the  9th  of  October 
found  us  again  "outward  bound."  The  last  link  of  com- 
munication was  broken  as  the  Highlands  of  Navesink  dis- 
appeared below  the  western  horizon.  We  had  a  glorious 
breeze  directly  aft  and  ran  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  nine 
knots  an  hour.  Several  little  sparrows  took  refuge  on 
board,  having  been  blown  off  by  the  fresh  northwest 
wind.  I  endeavored  to  revive  them  by  giving  them  bread 
crumbs  and  fresh  water,  and  these  little  passengers  of  the 
feathered  tribe  staid  with  us  some  hours.  When  not  on 
watch  or  duty  I  amused  myself  reading  "Pickwick 
Papers,"  then  a  new  and  popular  book,  or  if  tired  of  that 
light  pastime,  varied  my  reading  with  the  "Chemistry  of 
Common  Life."  Our  lovely  weather  was  not  of  long  du- 
ration. About  the  middle  of  the  month  found  us  with 
head  winds  and  a  rough  sea  tossing  and  pitching  most 
uncomfortably,  and  two  ships  in  sight  almost  in  company 
with  us.  One  of  these  was  a  large  clipper  ship,  and  she 
presented  a  beautiful  sight  as  she  passed  near  us  under  a 
perfect  cloud  of  canvas,  like  a  great  bird  with  outstretched 
wings  seeking  a  place  of  safety  from  the  coming  storm. 
We  had  now  to  prepare  ourselves  for  a  gale,  or  a  suc- 
cession of  gales,  from  southeast,  northeast  and  north- 
west points  of  the  compass;  the  last,  rising  to  its  height 
at  noon,  was  certainly  grand  and  magnificent.  The  "pen 
of  a  ready  writer"  or  the  brush  of  a  skilful  artist  might 
convey  a  faint  picture  to  the  imagination,  but  one  must 
be  an  eye-witness  to  appreciate  the  grandeur  of  such  a 
storm  at  sea.  Picture  to  yourself  a  wild  horse  of  the 
prairie  with  nostrils  distended,  mane  flying  to  the  breeze, 
eyes  flashing  madness  as  he  exerts  every  muscle  in  speed  to 


116  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

escape  the  consuming  fire  as  it  roars  in  flames  and  rapidly 
encroaches  upon  his  fated  heels !  Such  a  comparison  pre- 
sented itself  to  me  as  on  my  watch  I  stood  by  the  helms- 
man and  watched  his  careful  steering  as  our  ship  sped 
before  the  gale  under  close  reef  sail  at  the  rate  of  thirteen 
knots  an  hour,  huge  billows  bursting  in  an  ocean  of  foam 
close  upon  our  wake,  often  washing  our  feet  as  we  stood 
upon  the  upper  deck,  so  madly  did  the  waves  dash  on  us; 
then  would  our  good  ship  strain  every  cord,  as  it  were,  to 
escape  the  fast-following  sea,  as  towering  high  above  the 
billows  would  break  close  upon  our  feet.  Indeed,  the  sea 
was  not  like  itself.  It  resembled  more  a  desert  of  float- 
ing sand  driven  by  the  tempest.  The  sun  shone  bright  in 
the  clear  sky  above  and  the  wind  howled  as  it  lashed  the 
combing  sea,  driving  the  spoondrift  like  mist  through  the 
air  and  covering  the  vast  ocean  in  a  sea  of  foam — a  scene 
grand  and  magnificent  to  behold !  How  constantly  are 
those  reminded  who  travel  on  the  great  deep  of  the  won- 
derful works  and  goodness  of  the  Great  Creator!  One 
day  tossed  and  driven  by  the  raging  tempest,  the  next 
evening,  perhaps,  sailing  pleasantly  along  under  quiet 
skies  with  a  full  moon  beaming  upon  a  stilled  and  tranquil 
ocean. 

Having  only  three  lieutenants  on  board,  our  watch 
seemed  to  come  round  very  fast  and  keep  us  very  busy. 
Some  sport  we  sometimes  had.  Our  men  thought  to 
enliven  our  quiet  by  doing  some  fishing.  From  a  school 
of  "trigger  fish"  they  caught  quite  a  number,  which  we 
had  for  dinner,  and  were  surprised  to  find  them  quite  pal- 
atable. It  is  a  small  fish,  about  the  size  of  a  fresh-water 
perch,  with  a  skin  in  roughness  resembling  the  shark,  and 
teeth  like  a  sheepshead;  but  the  name  is  given  to  it  from  a 
peculiar  fin  on  the  back  which  can  be  set  like  the  trigger 
of  a  gun,  and  by  touching  a  spring  the  fin  will  fall.  We 
also  caught  a  beautiful  dolphin,  and  our  cook  excelling 
in  preparing  chowder,  we  had  fish  chowder  and  dolphin 
steaks;  but  the  dolphin's  hues  really  seemed  too  gay  and 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  117 

beautiful  to  make  him  a  dish  for  food.  It  was  like  utiliz- 
ing the  rainbow !  We  had  not  been  long  enough  at  sea 
to  need  a  replenished  larder,  and  even  in  that  day  we  had 
many  canned  goods  and  French  preparations,  soups,  etc., 
that  kept  up  a  creditable  table  for  us  in  mid-ocean.  There 
are  few  fish  that  a  ship's  cook  or  caterer  will  not  try  his 
hand  upon  by  way  of  experiment  and  variety. 

Our  sailing  was  now  becoming  slow  and  monotonous, 
as  we  were  nearing  the  belt  where  storms  and  gales  scarce 
ever  intruded.  We  sometimes,  however,  had  heavy  rains. 
During  a  pouring  downfall  orders  were  given  by  the 
caterer  to  turn  out  the  ducks  that  they  might  enjoy  several 
inches  of  fresh  water  swashing  our  decks.  They  enjoyed 
it  to  the  full,  as  their  lively  quacks  testified.  Then  the  pigs 
were  marshalled  out  with  orders  to  be  scrubbed !  Such 
squealing  was  perhaps  never  before  heard  on  a  well-organ- 
ized ship,  but  it  was  a  very  amusing  scene  to  officers  and 
crew.  Our  voyage  was  necessarily  a  very  slow  one,  being 
heavily  laden  with  stores.  We  were  peculiarly  unfortunate 
in  having  to  contend  with  light  head  winds.  It  was  at  this 
time  my  pleasure  and  privilege  to  read  for  the  first  time  a 
book,  then  new,  Captain  Maury's  "Physical  Geography 
of  the  Sea."  He  mentioned  rare  instances  of  similar 
weather  to  that  we  had  been  having,  and  accounted  for 
it  in  a  scientific  way,  explaining  that  the  heat  of  the  Afri- 
can deserts  cause  there  a  vacuum,  which  the  trade  winds 
rushing  to  fill  leave  latitudes  of  the  ocean  subject  to 
irregular  winds  and  squalls,  and  the  fine  wTinds  and  weather 
we  should  have  had  were  doubtless  refreshing  some  wild 
Africans  in  their  distant  desert  homes.  I  know  it  is  very 
bad  taste  ever  to  differ  with  science,  but  I  was  almost 
persuaded  to  add  to  my  science  a  little  of  a  sailor's  super- 
stition and  to  lay  our  ill  luck  in  bad  weather  and  deten- 
tion of  voyage  to  the  death  or  suicide  of  a  favorite  black 
pet  cat  on  board.  Some  of  the  men  in  their  kindness  of 
heart  overfed  the  poor  beast  with  raw  beef,  whereupon  its 
deranged  digestion  caused  violent  fits,  and  in  one  of  these 


118  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

attacks  overboard  it  went !  But  I  would  not  like  to 
acknowledge  to  my  friends  that  I  belonged  or  adhered  too 
closely  to  my  sailor  brotherhood  in  their  superstitions  of 
"Flying  Dutchmen,"  "black  cats,"  "sailing  from  ports  on 
Friday,"  etc.  Bad  weather,  like  many  other  ills,  cannot 
last  always,  and  before  very  long  we  were  again  sailing 
on  smiling  summer  seas.  I  recall  with  delight,  even  at 
this  distance  of  time,  many  of  my  beautiful  watch  hours 
on  board  the  Store  Ship  Supply.  Sometimes  the  morn- 
ing watch,  with  the  sea  as  smooth  as  glass,  a  pleasant 
breeze  and  our  good  ship  under  all  sail  traveling  at  the 
rate  of  six  or  seven  knots  an  hour,  the  stars  brilliant  in  the 
blue  vault  above,  the  eastern  horizon  softly  lighting  up 
for  the  coming  day,  after  which  the  glad  sun  in  all  his  glo- 
rious majesty  rose  behind  a  well-defined  cloud  whose  edges 
fringed  with  the  brightest  golden  tint  gave  glory  to  God 
and  peaceful  gratitude  to  the  heart  of  man.  In  these  lonely 
watches  a  man's  heart  is  filled  with  the  haunting  memories 
of  home  and  loved  ones,  and  one  becomes  transported 
there  and  holds  sweet  communion  with  home's  inmates  on 
winged  winds  of  thought !  I  remember  reading  at  this 
time  a  book,  that  interested  me  very  much,  Mcllvaine's 
"Evidences  of  Christianity."  It  is  scarcely  less  charming 
than  a  book  of  more  recent  date,  Sir  Henry  Drummond's 
"Natural  Laws  in  the  Spiritual  World." 

We  arrived  in  the  city  of  Montevideo  December  5,  1858. 
Soon  after  our  arrival  we  were  boarded  by  a  boat  from  the 
Flag  Ship  St.  Laurence,  the  officer  of  which  informed  us 
that  we  were  the  first  vessel  of  the  Paraguay  expedition 
out  from  the  United  States.  We  had  hoped  to  find  the 
Frigate  Sabine  there  with  late  news  and  letters  from  home. 
Of  course  the  papers  were  filled  with  the  prospect  of  war 
with  Paraguay  on  account  of  indignities  offered  to  the 
American  Consul  and  our  flag.  Upon  inquiry  we  found 
it  was  the  current  belief  and  the  opinion  we  had  formed 
ourselves,  that  President  Lopez  would  readily  apologize 
and  treat  upon  equitable  terms  sooner  than  fight.     He 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  119 

was  said  to  be  more  willing  to  do  this  than  to  pay  damages 
for  the  loss  of  American  property.  The  English  had  lately 
called  him  to  account  for  disrespect  offered  their  minister. 
Lopez  made  amends,  and  it  was  the  general  opinion  that 
it  only  required  the  arrival  of  our  forces  in  full  to  have  our 
troubles  amicably  adjusted.  We  soon  had  at  anchor  the 
Frigate  St.  Laurence,  the  Sloop  Falmouth,  the  Brigs  Perry 
and  Bainbridge,  and  the  day  after  we  arrived  the  Steamer 
Fulton  made  her  appearance,  and  shortly  after  the  Water 
Witch  followed.  We  took  advantage  of  the  first  fair  breeze 
and  got  under  way  for  Buenos  Ayres  on  the  morning  of 
the  8th.  We  had  only  gone  about  forty  miles  above 
Montevideo  when  the  wind  hauled  ahead  and  we  were 
obliged  to  anchor.  The  view  here  from  deck  was  very  sin- 
gular. Although  the  water  was  only  about  twenty-five  feet 
deep,  there  was  no  land  in  sight,  and  but  for  the  freshness 
of  the  water  and  its  clay  or  mud  color  we  might  have 
imagined  ourselves  on  the  broad  ocean.  It  took  us  about 
two  days  to  make  the  trip  to  the  city  of  Buenos  Ayres. 
But  our  nearest  approach  to  the  town  was  about  eight 
miles  distant,  on  account  of  the  shallow  water.  A  few 
years  previous  to  this  even  small  boats  could  not  approach 
nearer  than  several  hundred  yards,  when  horses  and  vehi- 
cles would  drive  out  to  take  passengers  to  terra  firma.  At 
the  time  of  which  I  write,  however,  affairs  had  wonder- 
fully improved  in  the  completion  of  a  long  wharf,  along- 
side of  which  the  boats  landed  in  comfort  and  convenience. 
There  was  another  great  achievement  in  the  enterprise 
of  the  people,  adding  to  the  comfort  of  seafarers,  in  the 
running  of  a  little  steamer  several  times  a  day  from  the 
city  to  the  shipping.  It  was  both  convenient  and  pleasant 
for  us  to  take  steamer  and  go  to  the  city  in  the  morning, 
spend  the  day  sight-seeing  or  visiting  and  return  to  our 
quarters  on  board  ship  at  night. 

The  city  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
South  American  cities.  It  is  the  Capital  of  the  State  of 
its  name,  and  also  the  Capital  of  the  Argentine  Republic 


120  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

or  Confederation.  It  is  on  the  western  side  of  the  La 
Plata  estuary,  which  is  about  thirty  or  forty  miles  wide, 
and  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  sea.  It 
has  the  very  great  disadvantage  of  trade  in  the  difficult 
navigation  of  the  La  Plata  and  the  want  of  a  commodious 
harbor.  It  is  also  subject  to  the  pamparos  which  sweep 
across  the  pampas  from  the  Andes  with  relentless  fury,  and 
which  I  have  before  described  as  witnessing  at  Monte- 
video. There  are  some  very  handsome  public  buildings, 
notably  the  cathedral,  which  covers  half  a  square,  its  walls 
being  adorned  with  some  of  the  finest  pictures  (from  the 
old  masters)  known  to  Spanish  art.  The  name,  signifying 
fine  or  "pure  air,"  would  seem  very  indicative  of  good 
health,  but  the  water,  a  most  essential  factor  for  good 
health,  is  not  good.  The  numerous  wells  have  a  brackish 
taste,  and  the  only  really  fine  water  is  the  cistern  water 
gathered  from  the  roofs  of  the  houses  of  the  rich,  and 
apparently  for  their  use  alone.  Living  there  must  be 
very  cheap,  for  the  finest  beef  in  the  market  only  brought 
two  or  three  cents  a  pound,  and  to  see  the  fine  animals  in 
their  slaughter  pens  that  were  to  be  sacrificed  for  their 
hides  and  tallow  alone  was  both  a  surprise  and  regret  to 
North  American  spectators.  From  these  South  Ameri- 
can ports  we  saw  shipped,  every  few  days,  shiploads  of 
horses,  some  very  fine  ones  purchased  here  for  a  mere 
song,  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  each,  and  carried  to  Cal- 
cutta or  other  ports  in  India  for  the  use  of  cavalry  in  the 
India  wars.  Of  course,  it  is  easy  to  account  for  their 
cheapness,  for  it  costs  little  or  nothing  to  rear  them, 
as  the  rich,  luxuriant  grasses  on  the  pastures  afford 
inexhaustible  food  for  herds  of  horses  and  cattle.  As 
a  variety  for  our  table,  the  caterer  purchased  some 
ostrich  eggs,  and  we  had  omelette  for  breakfast,  one  egg 
taking  the  place  of  a  dozen  fowl  eggs.  I  cannot  say  that 
our  mess  relished  the  omelettes  much,  they  being  very 
coarse  in  flavor,  wanting  the  delicacy  that  is  always  found 
in  the  poultry-yard  luxury. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  121 

While  on  this  cruise  our  men  harpooned  a  porpoise, 
from  which  our  cook  gave  us  steaks,  fried  liver,  and  force- 
meat balls — quite  a  variety  of  dishes,  but  alas,  they  all 
savored  of  porpoise!  Half-famished  mariners  have  com- 
pared the  meat  to  fresh  pork,  which  comparison  may  hold 
good  in  the  anatomical  structure  of  the  animal — also  its 
habit  of  rooting  in  the  mud  and  sand  for  food,  from  which 
it  gets  the  name  of  "sea  hog;"  but  the  meat  I  should  call 
something  between  tough  beef  and  pork,  with  a  decided 
flavor  of  fish  oil,  and  since  the  caterer  showed  an  economi- 
cal desire  to  save  stores,  our  mess  decided  "we  would 
have  no  more  porpoise  harpooned  for  this  voyage." 

Of  course  we  had  a  great  amount  of  "war  talk"  each 
day  on  board  ship,  and  always  heard  "current  opinion" 
when  officers  went  ashore.  Lopez  was  not  thought  to  be 
a  coward,  by  any  means,  but  he  had  great  wealth,  and  had 
with  his  acquisitions  cultivated  a  miserly  love  of  "filthy 
lucre."  It  was  thought  by  some  that  sooner  than  pay 
large  damages  he  would  fight  the  trouble  out,  while  others 
thought  he  would  wisely  pay  a  reasonable  amount  and 
apologize.  While  we  had  not  enough  of  the  good  old- 
fashioned  "John  Bull"  in  us  to  be  "spoiling  for  a  fight," 
I  think  most  of  the  squadron,  officers  and  men,  held  them- 
selves in  readiness  to  resent  the  insult  to  the  "Stars  and 
Stripes"  and  hold  themselves  a  defense  for  American  Con- 
suls, citizens,  or  seamen  wherever  found  on  foreign  soil ! 


Chapter  XVII 

Christmas  at  sea,  or  Christmas  in  a  foreign  land !  How 
different  from  the  dear  and  happy  season  in  one's  own  land 
and  home.  But  I  must  not  complain  of  that  far-from- 
home  Christmas  in  '"'the  backward  distance  of  the  past." 
The  outcoming  vessels  of  the  Paraguay  Expedition 
brought  out  many  near  and  dear  friends  of  mine — Robert 
D.  Minor,  roommate,  classmate,  friend  of  my  boyhood; 
Charles  F.  Fahs,  Robert  Carter  (of  the  kingly  Carters  of 
Shirley),  Captain  Pegram,  and  many  old  and  valued 
friends.  Many  of  those  friends  that  made  bright  that 
long-past  Christmas  in  South  America  have  gone  before 
me  to  a  home  that  is  eternal !  I  often  think  wonderingly 
if  it  be  possible  that  any  class  of  naval  officers  have  ever 
formed  so  brotherly  an  attachment  for  each  other  as  did 
the  Class  of  1841. 

Between  Christmas  and  New  Year  we  had  fitted  out 
with  armament  and  stores  the  Steamer  Fulton,  which  with 
Commodore  Schubrick  and  suite,  and  our  commissioner, 
Mr.  Bowlin,  was  to  proceed  up  the  river,  to  be  followed 
by  the  other  vessels  as  fast  as  we  could  arm  and  store  them. 
We  learn  that  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  had  dispatched  a 
special  minister  to  President  Lopez  to  advise  him  to  "pay 
all  demands  and  avoid  a  collision  with  the  United  States, 
and  should  he  be  in  want  of  funds  Brazil  would  advance 
the  required  amount."  This,  of  course,  we  were  glad  to 
hear,  and  gave  some  credence  to,  for  we  were  very  anxious 
to  learn  the  prospect  of  the  return  of  the  squadron  to  the 
United  States  with  a  peaceable  treaty  with  Paraguay. 

There  is  on  shore  at  this  place  a  very  fine  hospital,  and 
attached  to  it  a  beautiful  little  chapel,  to  which  several  of 
us  repaired,  in  one  of  our  walks,  seeing  that  great  crowds 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  123 

were  tending  in  that  direction.  We  learned  that  five  fair 
young  ladies  were  to  ''take  the  veil,"  or  become  nuns. 
The  chapel  was  lighted  with  two  hundred  or  more  large 
wax  candles,  reflecting  a  beautiful  light  upon  the  rich 
hangings  of  the  altar  and  walls  of  the  chapel  and  the  gor- 
geous robes  of  the  priests,  of  whom  there  were  quite  a 
number  officiating.  The  services  were  very  long  and  at 
times  tiresome  and  monotonous,  from  being  conducted  in 
Latin,  and  the  pantomime  of  the  priests  quite  unintelligible 
to  us,  but  the  music  throughout  was  very  beautiful  and  sol- 
emn. The  young  ladies  came  in  robed  in  purest  white  with 
wreaths  of  orange  blossoms  on  their  heads.  After  many 
prayers  and  much  chanting  by  the  priests  they  were  led  up 
one  by  one  to  the  officiating  high  priest,  and  kneeling  be- 
fore him  received  his  blessing.  After  this  he  clipped  from 
the  heads  of  each  three  tresses  of  hair,  one  from  each  side 
and  one  from  the  top  of  the  head.  As  a  spectator  I  supposed 
this  was  to  be  done  more  thoroughly  afterwards,  and  the 
young  maidens  would  in  being  shorn  of  what  St.  Paul  calls 
"a  glory  to  woman"  show  their  desire  or  willingness  to 
give  up  the  vanities  of  the  world  and  the  show  and  pride 
of  life.  After  this  ceremony  followed  more  chanting,  dur- 
ing which  the  maidens  were  led  into  the  vestry-room,  leav- 
ing the  kneeling  multitude  a  silent  throng.  In  a  few  mo- 
ments they  returned,  the  wreaths  of  orange  blossoms 
gone,  or  replaced  with  plain  long  white  veils,  and  on  the 
shoulder  each  one  carried  a  black  wooden  cross,  three  or 
four  feet  in  length.  This  scene  was  very  impressive 
indeed.  To  me  it  was  a  very  sad  one.  This  resignation 
in  those  so  young  of  the  greatest  joys  of  life  and  the  truest 
mission  of  woman !  Even  the  blessed  privilege  of  being 
saints  of  holy  firesides  and  happy  homes,  leading  the  hearts 
therein  through  her  sweet  influence  and  example  to  hap- 
piness and  Heaven ! 

Among  the  last  of  the  vessels  coming  out  to  the  Para- 
guay Expedition  was  the  Preble,  commanded  by  Captain 
Thornton   A.    Jenkins.      The    three    lieutenants — Lowry, 


124  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Breeze  and  Minor — were  old  friends  and  classmates  of 
mine,  and  I  began  to  think  strongly  of  volunteering  on 
board  this  ship,  that  I  might  take  my  part  in  battle  if  such 
duty  were  necessary.  The  two  frigates  and  the  store  ship 
were  to  remain  at  Montevideo,  as  they  drew  too  much 
water  to  ascend  the  river  to  the  rendezvous,  Corrientes. 
I  think  there  is  nothing  a  young  man  hates  so  much  as 
inactivity  and  monotony.  The  weary  weeks  of  waiting 
after  all  the  ships  were  fitted  out  and  filled  with  stores 
seemed  something  to  be  dreaded.  In  the  event  of  war  all 
that  could  be  spared  from  the  frigates,  the  Falmouth  and 
the  store  ships  would,  of  course,  be  sent  up,  but  they  must 
wait  for  further  news.  I  determined  not  to  wait.  The 
Province  of  Corrientes  is  eight  hundred  miles  up  the  river, 
and  the  rendezvous  appointed  was  at  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers  La  Plata  and  Parana.  I  was  very  much  pleased 
that  permission  was  granted  me  to  leave  the  Supply  tem- 
porarily, and  Captain  Jenkins  accepted  my  services.  I 
took  up  my  quarters  on  the  Preble,  sharing  the  comforts 
of  my  friend  Minor.  The  wind  and  tide  not  being  very 
favorable,  we  did  not  leave  Montevideo  for  a  day  or  two. 
One  afternoon  Minor  and  I  thought  we  would  enjoy  a 
stroll  together  through  the  beautiful  public  garden,  "Mar- 
gat's,"  which  is  several  miles  from  the  city,  a  fashionable 
drive  for  ladies,  and  a  very  pleasant  horseback  ride  for  us. 
Having  always  been  a  lover  of  flowers,  and  wishing  to 
make  some  return  for  the  attention  of  the  guide  and  gar- 
dener, I  ordered  a  bouquet.  He  gathered,  it  seemed  to 
me,  from  everything  rare  and  beautiful,  and  a  great  quan- 
tity, till  Bob  begged  me  to  stop  him,  whispering  that  my 
"bouquet  might  cost  me  five  or  ten  dollars;"  but  I  let  him 
follow  his  own  taste  and  discretion.  Minor  turned  aside, 
still  enjoying  the  garden,  and  I  asked  my  indebtedness, 
and  was  amazed  to  find  it  about  fifty  cents.  Of  course  I 
did  not  tell  it,  but  had  Bob's  sympathy  in  consequence,  he 
believing  it  to  have  been  very  costly.  Now  both  lie  and 
I  were  married  men,  but  our  friend  Breeze  was  visiting 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  125 

and  enjoying  as  a  young  bachelor  calls  on  the  beautiful 
Spanish  senoritas  on  shore,  in  love  with  half  a  dozen;  so 
we  determined,  at  Minor's  suggestion,  that  our  bouquet 
should  give  a  great  amount  of  pleasure,  as  he  thought  it 
had  cost  a  considerable  sum.  Attaching  a  card,  with 
name  of  fair  one  and  compliments,  we  had  the  bouquet 
placed  in  Breeze's  room  as  soon  as  we  reached  the  ship. 
Breeze,  being  on  shore  in  another  direction,  never  found 
out  the  joke  we  played  on  him,  and  we  never  had  the  satis- 
faction of  hearing  his  exclamations  of  delight  over  his  beau- 
tiful bouquet.  Minor  was  one  of  those  large-hearted  men 
with  life  and  face  all  brimming  over  with  the  sunshine  of 
his  happy  heart.  A  very  "Nathaniel  in  whom  there  was 
no  guile."  I  felt  that  I  gained  a  great  deal  by  my  transfer 
to  the  Preble  temporarily  in  the  opportunity  afforded  me 
of  taking  the  trip  of  six  or  eight  hundred  miles  in  the 
interior  of  South  America.  The  Supply,  after  delivering 
eight  heavy  guns  and  a  quantity  of  stores,  was  so  very 
much  lightened  that  it  began  to  be  hoped  that  she  might 
be  able  to  cross  the  bar  and  join  the  expedition.  Much 
good  was  hoped  to  accrue  from  the  display  of  a  strong 
force  to  sustain  our  commissioner  and  the  proof  of  easy 
access  of  our  squadron  hundreds  of  miles  into  the  very 
heart  of  the  country.  Before  we  were  able  to  leave  Monte- 
video, on  account  of  head  winds  and  unfavorable  weather, 
we  heard  of  the  arrival  of  our  commodore  and  commis- 
sioner at  Corrientes,  the  port  where  the  whole  squadron 
was  ordered  to  rendezvous.  Our  passage  up  the  river 
was  very  slow.  On  account  of  danger  of  the  water 
shoaling  we  had  sometimes  to  anchor  and  send  the  little 
Surveying  Steamer  Argentina  ahead  of  us  for  soundings; 
and  the  Steamer  Southern  Star  ordered  to  tow  us  not  hav- 
ing much  power,  we  were  obliged  to  be  very  much  gov- 
erned by  the  winds.  We  arrived  at  Colonia,  a  little  town 
almost  opposite  Buenos  Ayres,  about  the  20th  of  January. 
Here  we  had  the  encouraging  news  or  report  that  "Presi- 
dent Urquisa,  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  was  acting  as 


126  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

political  adviser  to  President  Lopez,  of  Paraguay,  and  was 
insisting  upon  amicable  terms  and  an  immediate  treaty  of 
peace."  This  made  the  prospect  of  war  grow  quite  dim 
before  our  eyes  and  encouraged  the  hope  that  not  a  hos- 
tile gun  would  be  fired.  With  the  Empire  of  Brazil  and 
the  Argentine  Confederation  on  our  side  we  were  safe. 

Sunday  on  board  a  ship  depends  very  much  upon  the 
temperament  of  the  person  if  it  be  a  day  of  enjoyment.  Of 
course  there  is  the  usual  routine — muster,  inspection  of 
quarters,  reading  the  Articles  of  War,  etc.  If  there  is  no 
chaplain,  the  captain,  if  he  is  a  religious  man  or  desires  it, 
usually  reads  the  service,  the  crew  attend  if  they  wish  and 
the  officers  almost  without  exception  do;  but  the  men 
without  work  or  duty  find  light  reading,  or  gather  in 
groups  and  spin  yarns  for  the  general  amusement  of  their 
fellow-sailors.  I  have  often  thought  how  beautiful  it 
would  be  to  see  an  entire  ship's  company  influenced  by 
religious  principles,  every  man  performing  his  duty  with 
cheerfulness  and  alacrity.  The  efficiency  of  such  a  ship's 
crew  would  arrive  at  the  height  of  human  attainment.  It 
is  said  of  General  Havelock,  who  has  left  a  name  mem- 
orable in  history  for  deeds  of  gallantry  and  daring  in  the 
wars  of  India,  that  in  selecting  recruits  for  his  command 
he  was  governed  principally  by  the  religious  education  and 
morals  of  the  men,  trusting  to  their  making  the  best  sol- 
diers. He  gathered  around  him  such  a  body  of  men  that 
when  deeds  of  valor  were  required,  when  any  "forlorn 
hope"  was  to  be  carried,  "Havelock's  Saints" — as  they 
were  termed  in  the  army — were  always  called  upon.  Thus 
will  it  ever  be — true  religion  and  heroism  go  hand  in  hand. 
In  our  late  Civil  War  who  were  the  heroes? — Stonewall 
Jackson  and  Robert  E.  Lee,  Christian  gentlemen.  Chris- 
tian warriors,  God's  faithful  soldiers  and  servants  till  their 
life's  end ! 

In  going  up  the  Parana  River  we  stopped  at  the  town 
of  Rosario,  about  a  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  Buenos 
Avres.     Breeze  and   I   went  on  shore  for  a  walk.     We 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  127 

found  it  a  town  of  considerable  commerce  and  between 
fifteen  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Upon  first 
landing  we  found  a  species  of  crimson  verbena,  apparently 
wild,  and  we  imagined  the  flora  of  the  country  must  be 
very  bright  and  beautiful.  The  shrubs  about  the  resi- 
dences were  handsome  and  luxuriant  and  the  vegetable 
gardens  looked  inviting  and  tempting,  but  upon  leaving 
the  outskirts  of  the  town  the  country  presented  itself  in 
one  broad  expansive  view,  a  flat  prairie  with  close-browsed 
grass  dotted  over  with  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  hogs,  dogs 
and  gulls.  Such  a  landscape  can  be  seen  through  this 
extensive  country  for  hundreds  of  miles,  with  little  varia- 
tion. There  are  immense  slaughter  houses,  too,  for  the 
only  articles  of  export  are  hides,  tallow,  horns  and  bones. 
The  dogs  and  gulls  so  numerous  were  leading  bandit  lives, 
feeding  upon  the  offal  of  the  slaughter  pens.  Flowers 
were  rare,  and  excepting  the  accident  of  brightness  and 
beauty  in  the  little  red  verbena  that  welcomed  us  at  the 
landing  place,  we  saw  none. 

A  day  or  two  after  leaving  Rosario  we  learned  from  a 
passenger  steamer  that  passed  us  with  news  from  Asun- 
cion, the  Capital  of  Paraguay,  that  the  commodore  and 
suite  and  our  minister,  Mr.  Bowlin,  had  reached  Asuncion 
and  been  graciously  received  by  President  Lopez,  who 
evinced  every  disposition  to  have  an  amicable  settlement 
of  our  difficulty,  and  to  establish  with  us  a  new  treaty. 
There  seemed  nothing  now  in  our  way  unless  the  bom- 
bastic Spaniard,  always  conceiving  it  undignified  to  move 
or  act  with  promptness,  assumed  a  procrastinating  slow- 
ness, for  which  he  is  noted.  We  arrived  at  Parana  early 
in  February,  and  our  first  news  was  "peace  is  concluded." 
Happy  intelligence !  At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  6th  day  of  February  the  captain  invited  five  officers 
(myself  among  the  number)  to  accompany  him  in  full- 
dress  uniform  to  call  upon  our  minister,  Mr.  Yancey,  and 
his  family.  His  first  salutation  after  greeting  us  was  con- 
gratulations that  a  treaty  had  been  concluded  between 
Commissioner  Bowlin  and  President  Lopez,  of  Paraguay. 


128  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

After  a  pleasant  visit  to  Mr.  Yancey  we  accompanied  him 
to  be  presented  to  President  Urquiza.  We  found  him  an 
agreeable  and  accomplished  gentleman.  He  had  been  the 
principal  adviser  of  Lopez  and  had  just  returned  with  the 
pleasing  news  of  amity.  He  visited  our  ship  the  next  day 
at  the  early  hour  of  six  in  the  morning,  with  Mr.  Yancey. 
We  had  a  grand  turn-out  in  full  dress,  manned  the  yards 
and  saluted.  The  ladies  visited  the  ship  at  10  o'clock,  and 
in  the  afternoon  we  made  ready  for  sailing  to  meet  the 
returning  commodore  and  commissioner.  We  had  not 
long  to  wait.  We  met  the  Steamer  Fulton  with  the  party 
on  the  18th  of  February,  and  were  ordered  to  "turn 
about"  and  follow  the  Fulton  to  Rosario,  the  rendezvous, 
after  which  all  would  proceed  to  Montevideo,  preparatory 
to  fitting  out  for  home.  Arriving  at  Rosario  on  the  226. 
of  February,  we  found  the  entire  Paraguay  Expedition 
anchored,  "returning  home  from  the  war."  It  being 
Washington's  Birthday,  the  ships  were  gaily  dressed  with 
flags,  and  at  meridian  a  salute  was  fired  by  all  the  vessels 
of  the  squadron.  In  the  afternoon  I  was  detached  and 
transferred  back  to  the  Store  Ship  Supply  with  the  men  I 
had  taken  with  me.  I  was  joyfully  welcomed  by  my 
messmates,  one  claiming  the  old  hat  of  Lopez,  another 
his  epaulettes,  etc.,  all  of  which  I  had  promised  to  capture 
in  warfare  and  present  as  trophies  on  my  return.  Peace 
having  been  proclaimed  I  claimed  exemption  from  the 
fulfilment  of  my  promises  so  rashly  made  in  view  of  war. 
I  had  a  picture  of  Lopez,  however,  which  caused  a  great 
deal  of  amusement,  and  which  now  adorns  an  old  scrap- 
book.  It  is  said  not  to  be  a  caricature,  either,  though  I 
really  hoped  it  was,  for  it  had  no  claim  to  beauty  and  very 
little  to  intelligence.  The  forehead  is  narrow  and  the 
lower  jaw  immense,  showing  more  the  look  of  a  bon  vivant 
than  the  leader  and  ruler  of  men  and  a  republic — rather  a 
despot  at  that !  We  did  not  linger  long  at  Montevideo, 
glad  of  our  orders  "homeward  bound,"  and  arrived  in  the 
city  of  New  York  early  in  May,  1859. 


Chapter  XVIII 

A  few  short  weeks  of  happiness  at  home,  and  the  fourth 
of  July  found  me  under  orders  to  "proceed  without  delay 
to  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard  and  report  for  duty  to  Com- 
modore James  McKay  Mcintosh."  While  I  should  like 
to  have  had  a  longer  leave,  these  orders  pleased  me,  for 
they  meant  two  years  or  more  on  shore,  and  it  was  the 
first  shore-station  duty  I  had  ever  been  ordered  to  since  I 
entered  the  Navy.  The  position  on  receiving  ship  at 
Norfolk  could  scarcely  count  for  shore  duty,  since  I  was 
on  positive  duty  and  not  able  to  leave  the  ship  at  least  one 
half  or  more  of  the  time.  The  Yard  at  this  time  was  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  in  the  United  States. 
It  was  handsomely  laid  out,  with  a  very  wide,  well-paved 
center  walk,  which  led  from  the  wharf  to  the  commodore's 
residence;  half  way  up  this  walk  was  an  archway  formed 
by  the  building  in  which  the  stores  were  kept.  The  com- 
modore's was  the  center  house,  with  six  handsome  resi- 
dences on  each  side,  which  were  occupied  by  officers  ac- 
cording to  rank.  Surrounding  these  houses  were  beau- 
tiful grounds,  filled  with  tropical  plants,  lading  the  air 
with  perfume  of  jasmine,  heliotrope  and  violet  at  most 
seasons  of  the  year.  A  wide  brick  pavement  ran  the  entire 
front  length  of  the  thirteen  houses  in  row,  giving  great 
comfort  and  convenience,  and  well-kept  parks  or  grass 
plats  delighted  the  eye  in  front.  In  the  center  of  these 
parks  were  two  octagon  buildings,  one  containing  the 
offices  and  the  other  the  chapel  of  the  Navy  Yard. 

In  the  ship  yards  on  the  right  of  the  landing  were  being 
built  or  nearing  completion  the  fine  Sloops  of  War  Pensa- 
cola and  Seminole,  which  were  launched  during  that  sum- 
mer. To  the  left  of  the  landing  were  the  residences  of  the 
9 


130  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

junior  officers  and  quarters  of  the  men.  Outside  the 
Yard  gate  on  one  side  was  the  little  village  of  Warrington, 
built  up  for  the  convenience  of  trade,  and  through  which 
we  passed  to  the  naval  hospital,  and  beyond  the  hospital 
was  old  Fort  Barancas,  famous  for  having  been  built  by 
the  Spaniards.  The  United  States  Army  officers  and 
their  families  sojourned  at  Barancas,  and  were  within 
pleasant  visiting  distance  of  the  Yard,  and  many  were  the 
social  civilities  exchanged.  General  Winder  was  in  com- 
mand of  the  Fort.  Lieutenants  Gilmore  and  Slemmer  were 
the  officers  next  in  command,  both  of  whom  took  active 
part  and  rose  to  high  rank  in  the  Civil  War  on  the  Fed- 
eral side.  At  the  time  of  which  I  write  the  thought  of 
war  scarcely  showed  itself,  even  as  a  speck  on  the  mental 
horizon  of  the  wise  and  far-thinking  men  of  national  repu- 
tation. Few,  I  think,  would  have  allowed  themselves  to 
believe  that  our  differences  could  not  be  settled,  if  brought 
to  issue,  on  the  floors  or  in  the  halls  of  Congress.  Our 
commander  at  the  Navy  Yard  was  E.  Farrand.  He  was 
of  Northern  extraction,  but  his  heart  was  in  the  land  and 
State  of  his  adoption,  and  his  loyalty  and  bravery  in  time 
of  need  was  very  earnestly  given  to  the  State  of  Florida 
and  the  Southern  cause.  Next  in  rank  was  the  first  lieu- 
tenant, Chas.  W.  Hayes,  of  Alabama.  I  filled  the  place 
of  second,  or  junior,  lieutenant.  Dr.  Bishop  was  surgeon. 
Purser  Warrington  (a  son  of  the  commodore  of  that 
name)  was  paymaster.  He  was  a  clever  gentleman.  Rev. 
Chas.  W.  Thomas,  our  faithful  and  efficient  chaplain,  was 
very  much  respected  and  beloved  by  officers  and  men. 
The  master  of  the  Yard  was  Captain  Pearson,  and  Mr. 
Porter  was  the  naval  constructor.  To  his  inventive  brain 
some  believe  we  are  indebted  for  the  original  idea  of  the 
ironclad,  brought  into  service  some  years  later.  Porter 
was  a  very  modest  man,  of  few  words,  and  not  being  on 
the  "side  of  the  strongest  artillery,"  or  the  winning  side, 
of  the  Civil  War,  he  died  shortly  after  its  close  almost 
penniless.     Mr.  Abert,  a  very  cultivated,  pleasant  gentle- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  131 

man,  was  civil  engineer,  with  Mr.  Alexander  as  assistant. 
Mr.  Gonzales  was  the  storekeeper.  The  commodore's 
secretary  and  nephew,  Lachlan  H.  Mcintosh,  resided  in 
his  household.  These  dozen  or  more  families,  combined 
with  hospital  and  fort  families,  being  within  visiting  dis- 
tance of  the  city  of  Pensacola,  made  up  a  very  delightful 
society,  and  the  incoming  ships  for  repairs  or  rendezvous 
added  gaiety  and  pleasure  of  every  kind.  The  commo- 
dore's receptions  were  as  grand  events  of  their  kind  as  the 
entertainments  of  the  exclusive  "four  hundred,"  so  pater- 
nally watched  over  by  the  late  Ward  McAllister,  and  eti- 
quette was  strictly  observed  upon  every  occasion  by  him. 
Of  course  we  kept  open  houses,  to  which  our  brother  offi- 
cers coming  in  from  sea  were  warmly  welcomed  at  any 
time,  and  where  they  were  glad  to  spend  their  evenings,  if 
only  to  be  reminded  of  distant  homes  and  as  happy  fire- 
sides ! 

This  Navy  Yard,  being  the  only  one  south  of  Norfolk, 
was  kept  very  busy,  and  did  a  great  deal  of  work  for  the 
Gulf  Squadron,  the  work  always  being  very  ably  done. 
Although  cut  off  in  a  great  measure  from  the  rest  of  the 
world  and  in  a  port  of  limited  commerce,  we  lived  in  great 
comfort  and  luxury.  The  waters  afforded  us  the  finest 
fish  and  oysters  in  the  world,  and  the  surrounding  country 
furnished  us  abundance  of  game,  such  as  wild  turkey  and 
venison,  and  we  had  very  fine  poultry  of  every  description. 
Gophers  were  abundant,  we  buying  them  by  the  barrel, 
and  sea  turtle  were  a  luxury  sometimes  brought  in  by  the 
ships.  The  country  people  kept  us  supplied  with  fine 
fruit  in  the  season,  and  the  little  coasting  schooners  made 
the  tropical  fruits  a  daily  enjoyment,  especially  pineapples 
and  oranges.  The  flowers  in  this  congenial  climate  make 
a  wonderful  growth.  I  began  a  little  conservatory, 
through  the  kindness  of  Mrs.  Farrand,  a  great  botanist 
and  lover  of  flowers,  and  my  next-door  neighbor,  and  by 
the  time  I  could  bring  my  family  to  the  Navy  Yard,  the 
first  of  November,  the  plants  had  grown  not  inches  but 


132  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

feet  in  height.  Jessamines,  geraniums,  heliotropes,  and 
many  lovely  plants  looked  as  though  my  little  greenhouse 
had  been  "a  thing  of  beauty"  for  several  years. 

There  were  several  very  pleasant  and  notable  families 
residing  in  Pensacola  at  this  time  who  were  on  sociable 
terms  at  the  Yard,  among  them  Senator  Mallory  (he  was 
afterwards  Secretary  of  the  Confederate  States  Navy), 
Major  Chase,  an  Army  officer,  and  the  charming  widow 
of  Commodore  Dallas.  This  lady  was  the  sister  of 
Madame  Murat,  the  widow  of  Achille  Murat,  whose  father 
the  first  Napoleon  had  made  a  king.  When  Napoleon 
III.  came  to  the  exalted  position  his  uncle  had  occupied 
he  did  not  forget  the  past,  and  Madame  Murat  was  invited 
to  his  Court,  and  made  a  visit  there  during  the  reign  of 
the  beautiful  Eugenie.  While  we  were  residents  at  the 
Navy  Yard  a  very  brilliant  social  event  occurred  in  the 
city  of  Pensacola — the  marriage  of  Senator  Mallory's 
charming  daughter  Maggie  to  a  gentleman  of  Bridgeport, 
Connecticut.  The  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  of  Florida 
performed  the  ceremony,  which  was  very  impressive.  He 
specially  wished  the  young  couple  and  the  assembled  mul- 
titude to  know  (or  to  remember)  that  in  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic Church  there  was  no  such  thing  known  or  allowed  as 
divorce !  That  literally  and  most  solemnly  the  vows  they 
were  taking  upon  themselves  were  holy,  and  that  the  ties 
indissoluble;  that  those  whom  God  and  His  Holy  Church 
had  joined  together,  no  man,  or  laws  of  man,  "could  put 
asunder." 

Social  life  at  the  Navy  Yard  and  Fort  was  really  the 
ideal  life  perfected — so  many  warm  and  brotherly  attach- 
ments as  then  existed  between  the  officers  making  the 
interest  in  their  families  deep  and  abiding  with  its  under- 
current of  sincerity  and  affection.  It  is  so  pleasant  to  look 
back  and  see  in  memory  my  loved  friend  Minor,  the  gal- 
lant Maffitt,  dear  Willie  Whittle,  Eggleston,  true  as  steel, 
Gillis,  and  so  many  that  shared  those  early  days,  sitting 
in  comfort  on  my  wide  verandas,  tossing  my  little  sons 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  133 

about,  or  walking  with  them  in  their  arms,  or  listening  to 
their  sweet  prattle  with  keen  relish  and  delight,  some  with 
homesick  longing,  no  doubt,  for  their  own  "lares  and 
penates."  Maffitt  was  a  widower  at  this  time;  with  a 
true  sailor's  appreciation  and  admiration  for  the  female 
sex  it  was  no  wonder  that  he  was  a  great  favorite  every- 
where. But  the  summer  was  wearing  away,  and  the  latter 
part  of  it  found  the  shadow  of  death  hovering  over  the 
beautiful  Navy  Yard  in  the  declining  health  of  the  com- 
mandant, my  relative,  Commodore  Mcintosh;  also  the 
angry  clouds  of  war  were  gathering  ominously  to  burst 
upon  us  and  our  beloved  Southland  in  a  few  short 
months !  Ah,  little  did  we  surmise  then  that  the  next 
spring,  as  Nature  was  crowning  herself  with  verdure,  there 
would  open  for  us  four  years  of  desolating  war  through 
which  nothing  could  have  sustained  us  but  the  holy  fire 
of  patriotism  that  burned  on  the  altar  of  our  hearts,  sacred 
to  love  and  home !  War  to  a  disappointed  end,  with 
nothing  to  comfort  or  uphold  the  spirit  in  defeat  but  the 
consciousness  of  duty  eagerly  and  nobly  done  in  the  cause 
that  we  deemed  just,  and  true,  and  right !  But  I  antici- 
pate. 

We  were  still  living  happy  lives  in  quiet  homes  when 
illness  came,  and  then  death,  to  claim  as  his  own  the  noble 
spirit  of  Commodore  James  McKay  Mcintosh.  He  died 
on  the  4th  of  September,  i860.  For  nearly  fifty  years  he 
served  his  country,  and  literally  "died  in  harness."  A 
man  of  Southern  birth  and  parentage,  a  compeer  of  the 
gallant  Tatnall,  Buchanan,  and  many  other  noble  officers  of 
his  date  and  age,  one  can  conceive  the  pain  he  would  have 
borne  in  severing  (as  they  did)  the  ties  and  duties  of  fifty 
years'  service  under  a  flag  he  loved  and  honored.  But 
death  spared  him  any  sacrifice  of  feeling,  and  in  the  sunset 
glory  of  his  days,  honored  and  respected  in  his  profession, 
and  by  his  fellow-men,  we  laid  him  in  a  temporary  tomb, 
till  Georgia,  his  native  State,  claimed  what  remained  of 


134  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

her  noble  son,  and  early  in  March,  1861,  he  was  buried 
with  his  ancestors  at  old  Midway  Churchyard,  Liberty 
County,  Georgia. 

"Close  his  eyes,  his  work  well  done. 
What  to  him  is  friend  or  foeman, 
Rise  of  moon,  or  set  of  sun, 
Hand  of  man,  or  smile  of  woman ! 

"As  man  may,  he  fought  his  fight, 
Proved  his  truth  by  his  endeavor. 
Let  him  sleep  in  solemn  night, 
Sleep  forever  and  forever ! 

"Fold  him  in  his  country's  stars, 

Roll  the  drum  and  fire  the  volley, — 
What  to  him  are  all  our  wars, 
What  but  death  bemocking  folly? 

"Leave  him  to  God's  watching  eye, 

Trust  him  to  the  hand  that  made  him. 
Mortal  love  weeps  idly  by — 

God  alone  held  power  to  aid  him !" 

In  the  latter  part  of  December  I  obtained  a  month's 
leave  of  absence  and  repaired  to  Macon,  Georgia,  where 
my  wife  and  children  were  in  her  father's  home,  and  here 
I  was  when  the  State  of  Georgia  held  her  convention.  I 
went  to  Milledgeville  and  was  present  when  the  ordinance 
of  secession  was  passed.  I  at  once  forwarded  my  resigna- 
tion to  the  Government  I  had  served  from  early  boyhood, 
and  espoused  the  cause  of  my  State,  deeming  it  my  sacred 
and  honorable  duty  to  take  this  step.  I  did  not  question 
my  heart  as  to  the  pain  involved.  I  knew  it  would  be  the 
severance  of  many  pleasant  ties  and  manly  friendships. 
From  this  time  my  life  seemed  divided  into  two  parts,  and 
so  I  will  divide  this  history  of  my  life. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  Civil  War  I  seemed  to  leave 
my  youth  and  the  service  of  the  country  I  had  faithfully 
served  for  almost  twenty  years,  far  behind  me  in  the  past; 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  135 

and  life  began  anew  for  me,  stern  and  sacred  duties,  to 
which  I  gave  myself  with  the  best  ability  at  my  command. 
I  wish  in  the  second  part  of  this  my  narrative  to  give  to 
history  and  posterity  the  truth  of  the  cruises  of  the  Con- 
federate Ships  Sumter  and  Alabama,  and  the  part  it  was 
my  privilege  to  take  and  share  as  executive  officer  of  both 
in  their  glorious  and  successful  work. 


PART  SECOND 
Chapter  I 

"A  long  remaining  glory 
Of  things  that  now  are  old!" 

Captain  Marryat  in  one  of  his  very  entertaining 
books  tells  his  hero  to  "give  his  memory  leave  [or  oppor- 
tunity] to  take  a  stroll."  This  advice  I  often  take  to  my- 
self, having  arrived  at  the  age  when  one  loves  to  dwell 
upon  the  past,  especially  its  brightest  scenes,  and  people 
the  halls  of  memory  with  friends  and  pictures  that  seem 
more  clear  and  bright  than  the  panorama  that  is  daily 
passing  before  our  eyes,  for  pictures  graven  on  the  heart 
need  no  camera  to  revive  them  or  make  them  live  again. 
The  year  i860  (and  some  months  of  the  year  before) 
passed  at  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard  are  very  dear  to  mem- 
ory. There  with  the  sharer  of  my  destiny  we  presided 
over  the  first  home  we  called  our  own.  We  had  many 
little  experiences  that  were  very  amusing  to  us,  and  frit- 
tered away  a  great  deal  of  money  on  pineapple  jam,  brandy 
peaches,  elegant  preserves,  jellies  and  pickles,  which, 
adorning  our  store-room  shelves,  were  the  next  winter  to 
find  their  way  into  the  Confederate  soldiers'  hands  at  the 
surrender  of  the  Yard.  My  wife  still  rejoices  that  they 
fell  into  their  hands  instead  of  the  enemy's,  and  hopes  they 
enjoyed  them!  We  often  talk  of  the  back  country  that 
fed  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard  as  a  veritable  "Land  of 
Goshen,"  and  its  remembered  luxuries  seem  as  did  the 
"flesh  pots  of  Egypt"  to  a  famishing,  exiled  people.  We 
there  rejoiced  in  all  the  dainties  and  good  living  of  land 
and  sea.     Our  fish  car  never  became  empty;  the  oyster 


138  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

boats  were  daily  replenishes;  the  country  people  brought 
in  wild  turkeys  and  venison  occasionally,  domestic  fowls 
of  every  kind,  with  splendid  fruit  in  season;  and  the  little 
schooners  brought  the  West  India  fruits  to  our  wharves. 
We  kept  "open  house"  and  hospitality  knew  no  limit,  for 
with  the  best  old  negro  cook  that  Georgia  could  produce 
our  housekeeping  was  an  endless  pleasure.  The  cook 
was  very  ambitious  that  her  young  mistress  should  equal, 
if  not  surpass,  the  oldest  housekeepers  in  the  Yard,  and 
she  was  the  youngest !  Her  energy  was  untiring  and  her 
zeal  wonderful.  She  listened  patiently  to  the  reading  of 
"Soyer,"  and  if  she  could  not  understand  his  French  dishes, 
she  at  least  tried  to  rival  them,  and  soon  learned  to  make 
the  Spanish  omelettes,  filled  with  the  sweet  bell  peppers 
chopped  into  mincemeat,  to  perfection.  We  found  we 
had  something  to  be  proud  of  in  our  cook  and  our  house- 
keeping. 

Bob  Minor,  Jack  Cooper.  John  N.  Maffitt,  Willie  Whit- 
tle, "Youngster"  Eggleston,  and  many  others,  dear  friends 
of  the  past,  were  daily  with  us,  and  unless  Bob  made  our 
baby  boys  sick  with  too  much  candy  or  his  favorite  "gum 
drops,"  we  had  nothing  to  disturb  the  brightness  of  our 
home.  Occasionally  we  "showed  off"  in  a  grand  dinner 
in  honor  of  some  of  my  senior  officers. 

But  these  pleasures  were  doomed  to  be  shortlived,  as 
the  cloud  of  war  was  rising  above  the  horizon  and  we 
were  nearing  conflict  that  wre  little  dreamed  would  plunge 
us  into  the  dreadful  war  of  four  long,  bitter  years;  when 
the  South  would  fight  the  world,  with  no  hand  stretched 
out  in  friendly  sympathy  to  aid,  and  at  last  give  up,  un- 
conquered,  from  sheer  exhaustion  and  despair! 

The  20th  of  December,  i860,  found  me  on  my  way  to 
Macon,  Georgia,  where  my  family  had  preceded  me  to 
spend  the  coming  holiday  season  at  home.  The  19th,  as 
I  was  journeying,  news  came  over  the  wires  that  the  State 
of  South  Carolina  had  upon  that  day  seceded  from  the 
Union.     To  some  it  seemed  appalling.     To  others,  burn- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  139 

ing  with  patriotic  zeal,  the  step  seemed  none  too  hasty  for 
resenting  our  sectional  grievances,  and  in  all  there  seemed 
a  desire  to  do  one's  duty  by  one's  own  home  and  State. 
Mississippi  soon  followed  the  example  of  her  plucky  sister 
State,  withdrawing  on  the  9th  of  January,  1861.  Ala- 
bama two  days  later  passed  her  ordinance  of  secession, 
and  upon  the  same  day — January  11 — Florida  withdrew 
from  the  Union.  At  this  news  I  returned  to  the  Pensa- 
cola  Navy  Yard  for  the  gathering  up  of  my  household 
effects,  for  we  had  left  our  home  with  the  pictures  hanging 
on  the  walls,  everything  as  we  had  occupied  it,  and  our 
faithful  old  cook,  Maria,  in  charge  of  the  establishment — 
she  and  Poll,  the  parrot,  having  a  very  lonely  time.  I 
found  great  changes.  Our  house,  being  untenanted,  was 
made  headquarters  for  the  Confederate  officers,  for  the 
Yard  had  surrendered  in  my  short  absence.  Commodore 
Armstrong  had  retired  and  Commodore  Victor  M.  Ran- 
dolph had  taken  command.  Our  neighbor,  Mrs.  Farrand, 
had  gone  into  our  house  and,  with  motherly  care,  removed 
the  pictures  and  bric-a-brac,  taking  all  to  her  own  home, 
including  our  silver  and  valuables.  The  Confederate  offi- 
cers were  very  civil  and  polite  to  me.  I  got  permission 
to  remove  all  that  was  mine  from  the  house,  but  much  had 
to  be  left  and  sacrificed  for  want  of  transportation.  The 
uncertainty  of  the  future  movements  of  those  still  in  the 
Yard  made  purchasers  scarce,  though  I  did  sell  the  good 
cow,  that  had  been  a  great  comfort  to  us,  for  a  twenty- 
dollar  gold  piece.  I  bade  adieu  to  this  beautiful  home,  its 
frames  and  verandas  covered  with  evening  glories  in  full- 
est bloom,  and  the  conservatory  filled  with  rare  exotics, 
with  a  feeling  of  lingering  regret.  We  had  been  so  happy 
there,  and  the  future,  with  its  lowering  clouds  of  war  and 
turmoil,  promised  no  compensation  (though  fortunately 
we  could  not  foresee  its  disasters  and  woes !)  for  our  van- 
ishing happiness. 

On  the  19th  of  January,  1861,  I  attended  the  State  Con- 
vention of  Georgia,  witnessed  her  withdrawal  from  the 


140  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Union,  went  to  the  hotel  and  wrote  my  resignation  (with- 
in an  hour  from  her  secession)  to  the  Government  of 
the  United  States,  waited  its  acceptance,  and  then  offered 
my  services  to  Governor  Joseph  E.  Brown.  If  not  the 
very  first,  I  was  among  the  first  to  take  this  step.  Com- 
modore Tatnall  was  in  command  at  Sackett's  Harbor. 
He  being  the  senior  naval  officer  in  the  State  of  Georgia 
was  of  course  later,  on  his  return,  put  in  command  of  her 
naval  forces;  but  just  now  there  was  no  Navy. 

Governor  Brown  accepted  my  services,  and  commis- 
sioned me  to  proceed  to  Savannah,  purchase  a  steamer, 
take  command  of  her,  and  hold  myself  in  readiness  for  har- 
bor and  coast  defense.  The  secession  movement  of  Geor- 
gia drew  her  sons  to  her  soil,  and  soon  all  were  within  her 
borders.  The  gallant  Tatnall,  Charles  Morris,  my  inti- 
mate friend  and  senior;  the  young  Armstrong  brothers, 
Wilbourn  Hall,  Graves,  Stone,  all  came  home  to  abide  by 
the  decision  of  their  State  and  to  share  her  fortune  for 
good  or  ill ! 

Through  old  letters  of  daily  correspondence  at  this 
time  (February,  1861),  I  find  this  item:  "The  Everglade 
returned  to  Savannah  to-day.  She  has  her  papers  correct, 
so  that  the  purchase  will  probably  be  closed  to-morrow, 
when  I  will  take  command.  She  is  to  be  called  the 
Savannah.  I  have  twenty-five  men  shipped,  and  hope  to 
make  up  the  fifty  men  required  before  I  leave." 

On  the  28th  of  February  I  write:  "I  took  command  of 
the  Steamer  Savannah  this  afternoon,  with  officers  and 
men  numbering  forty-five.  I  have  only  three  watch  offi- 
cers— Midshipmen  Armstrong,  Hooper  and  Merriwether 
— but  I  hope  to  have  Lieutenant  Armstrong  before  we 
sail.  I  am  making  every  exertion  to  leave  here  by  Mon- 
day or  Tuesday  next,  but  find  so  many  repairs  and  out- 
fits to  be  made  that  it  will  be  as  much  as  I  can  possibly  do 
to  be  ready  by  that  time.  I  am  occupied  every  moment 
of  time,  but  hope  in  a  few  days  to  get  things  regulated." 
My  first  duty  was  to  go  to  Fernandina,  and  with  permis- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  141 

sion  of  Governor  Perry,  of  Florida,  to  take  two  guns  from 
that  point  to  Fort  Pulaski.  On  March  22d  I  write:  "I 
have  just  arrived  in  Savannah  and  find  that  Commodore 
Tatnall  is  here.  I  shall  report  to  him  in  the  morning. 
Charles  Morris's  steamer,  the  Huntress,  has  arrived.  He 
will  probably  get  off  for  duty  in  a  week  or  ten  days." 
March  25th :  "The  commodore  visits  this  steamer  to-mor- 
row, and  will  take  a  trip  down  to  Fort  Pulaski."  Early 
in  April  I  find  this  item :  "While  at  Brunswick  to-day, 
received  orders  from  Commodore  Tatnall  to  'proceed  to 
Savannah  without  delay.'  "  The  Monday  previous  to  this 
date  I  record :  "A  very  black  and  threatening  cloud  mak- 
ing its  appearance  in  the  western  sky  late  in  the  afternoon, 
and  rapidly  covering  the  heavens,  by  8  o'clock  it  became 
so  very  dark  I  had  to  anchor  under  the  north  point  of 
Sapelo  Island.  Finding  it  bright  and  clear  the  next  morn- 
ing I  got  under  way,  and  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  I 
anchored  off  old  'Sunbury,'  the  home  of  my  childhood. 
The  terror-stricken  inhabitants  were  sure  the  'Yankees 
were  upon  them.'  "  One  man  took  to  the  woods,  and  not 
until  I  went  on  shore  and  made  myself  known  would  they 
believe  themselves  safe.  I  was  then  welcomed  heartily, 
and  a  Mr.  Anderson,  whom  I  found  living  in  our  old  house, 
kindly  offered  his  vehicle  and  proffered  to  drive  me  to 
Captain  Abiel  Winn's  (whose  wife  was  my  relative).  I 
spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  with  the  family  and  the  ven- 
erable Colonel  Maxwell,  much  beloved  in  that  county. 
Upon  my  return  to  Savannah  I  received  orders  from  Com- 
modore Tatnall  "to  go  at  once  to  St.  Simon's  Island  and 
take  the  Jackson  Artillery  from  that  point  to  Savannah." 
This  company  were  from  Macon,  commanded  by  Captain 
Theodore  Parker,  First  Lieutenant  Charles  Nisbet.  Offi- 
cers and  men  were  the  flower  of  chivalry  of  Georgia's 
central  city.  In  these  later  years  I  have  heard  many  amus- 
ing anecdotes  related  of  the  members  of  this  interesting 
company.  To  meet  Dr.  Mataner,  then  its  efficient  young 
surgeon,  and  Judge  James  T.  Nisbet,  an  honored  member 


143  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

of  the  company,  and  hear  them  ''spin  yarns,"  as  I  am  told 
they  do  in  memory  of  those  patriotic  days,  must  be  a  genial 
social  treat.  The  handsome  Lucius  M.  Lamar,  one  or 
both  of  the  Blooms,  and  many  others  of  Macon's  favorite 
sons  belonged  to  this  company  and  were  "illustrating 
Georgia"  at  this  time.  I  landed  them  with  guns,  equip- 
ments, and  baggage  in  safety  in  Savannah.  Captain 
Parker  received  orders  to  leave  the  guns,  and  his  company 
were  granted  one  week's  leave  of  absence.  The  following 
day  I  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Sunbury,  taking  on 
board  my  little  steamer  to  that  point  the  remains  of  Com- 
modore James  McKay  Mcintosh,  which  had  been  brought 
from  Pensacola  (where  they  had  been  temporarily  in- 
terred) by  his  nephew,  Lachlan  H.  Mcintosh,  and  which, 
through  the  interest  of  his  native  State  and  by  Act  of  the 
Legislature,  were  to  find  a  final  resting  place  in  the  burial 
ground  of  his  ancestors  in  old  Midway  Churchyard,  Lib- 
erty County.  His  relatives,  Major  William  Mcintosh, 
Lachlan  H.  Mcintosh,  Judge  McQueen  Mcintosh,  of 
Florida,  his  nephew,  John  McQueen  Mcintosh,  of  Darien, 
and  myself  were  privileged  to  accompany  these  remains 
as  escort.  In  honor  of  this  event  the  Savannah  Morning 
News  correspondent,  of  date  of  April  18th,  says: 

The  remains  of  the  late  Commodore  Mcintosh  arrived  in  Sunbury, 
Liberty  County,  the  place  of  his  nativity,  on  Tuesday,  the  16th  inst,  for 
final  interment  in  his  native  county.  The  body  was  conveyed  from 
Pensacola  by  railroad  to  Savannah,  in  charge  of  his  nephew,  Lachlan 
H.  Mcintosh,  and  thence  in  Steamer  Everglade  (or  Savannah) ,  Captain 
Kell,  commander,  to  Sunbury,  accompanied  by  the  relatives  of  the  de- 
ceased. It  was  here  received  by  the  Liberty  Independent  Troop,  with 
appropriate  remarks  by  Mr.  W.  C.  Stevens,  a  member  of  the  corps,  and 
briefly  responded  to  by  Captain  Kell.  After  the  ceremony  of  reception 
was  over  it  was  escorted  by  the  L.  I.  Troop  to  the  cemetery  at  Mid- 
way, nine  miles  distant,  its  final  resting  place. 

An  impressive  and  appropriate  prayer  was  offered  at  the  grave  by 
Rev.  C.  C.  Jones,  D.D.,  and  after  interment  a  wreath  of  roses  and  olive 
branches,  entwined  by  the  hands  of  Mrs.  Jones,  suspended  from  the 
headstone  of  the  grave.     I  herewith  transmit  copies  of  the  addresses, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  143 

a  publication  of  which  in  your  columns  would  no  doubt  be  gratifying  to 
the  friends  of  the  lamented  dead. 

ADDRESS   OF   MR.    STEVENS. 

Captain  Kell :  Permit  me  as  the  organ  of  the  Liberty  Independent 
Troop  to  express  to  you  their  just  appreciation  of  the  service  which 
brings  you  to  these  shores,  and  their  heartfelt  co-operation  in  the  funeral 
obsequies  of  the  occasion.  In  the  social  relations  of  life,  loved  and 
esteemed  by  his  friends  for  his  kindness  of  heart  and  manly  qualities, 
Commodore  Mcintosh  was  to  most  of  us  personally  unknown,  but  his- 
tory has  recorded  his  public  career  and  his  grateful  countrymen  arc 
ready  to  award  that  meed  of  praise  which  is  the  just  tribute  to  merit. 
By  reference  to  an  excerpt  of  his  life  we  find  that  he  entered  the  naval 
service  of  the  United  States,  September,  1811,  and  for  a  period  of  forty- 
nine  years  continued  in  the  active  exercise  of  different  vocations,  passing 
through  the  various  grades  of  service — midshipman,  passed  midshipman, 
master,  lieutenant  and  commander — as  rapidly  as  the  service  would 
admit.  Although  never  engaged  in  actual  hostilities  (if  we  except  the 
first  period  of  initiation  into  service)  we  find  him  during  a  reign  of 
national  prosperity  in  offices  of  important  trusts  and  great  responsibility, 
requiring  the  exercise  of  sound  judgment  and  a  character  distinguished 
for  fearlessness  of  danger.  In  1821  he  was  attached  to  an  expedition 
under  Captain  Kearney  for  the  extermination  of  pirates  on  the  West 
India  coast.  In  1851,  after  receiving  his  commission  with  the  rank  of 
captain,  he  was  ordered  to  the  command  of  the  U.  S.  Frigate  Congress, 
attached  to  the  Brazil  Squadron  under  the  command  of  Commodore 
McKeever.  Soon  after  this  he  was  removed  to  the  command  of  the 
Naval  Station  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  where  he  remained  till  1857,  when 
by  order  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  he  became  flag  officer  of 
the  Home  Squadron.  This  command  was  conferred  at  a  time  when 
British  fleets  in  Southern  waters  became  exceedingly  troublesome  by 
attempting  to  board  and  search  American  vessels,  but  by  prudence, 
judgment,  a  dignified  courtesy,  and  firm  determination,  he  vindicated 
and  maintained  the  position  his  country  had  ever  taken  against  the 
right  of  search,  and  received  for  his  conduct  his  country's  unqualified 
approbation.  Subsequent  to  this  period  Commodore  Mcintosh  was 
placed  in  command  of  the  Navy  Yard  at  Pensacola,  in  which  station 
he  expired  on  the  first  of  September,  i860.  Here  closed  his  earthly 
career,  almost  up  to  the  point  of  the  dissolution  of  the  Government 
which  he  had  always  served  with  fidelity  and  honor,  and  upon  the  eve 
of  a  great  and  momentous  revolution.  Had  Commodore  Mcintosh  sur- 
vived to  see  this  day  it  is  not  difficult  to  surmise  what  would  have  been 
his  position  in  the  recent  inauguration  of  political  events.     Had  he  lived 


144  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

to  behold  the  Confederate  flag  of  these  Southern  States  thrown  proudly 
and  defiantly  to  the  breeze,  his  ardent  and  true  Southern  heart  would 
too  surely  have  reflected  the  sentiment  of  its  emblematic  colors — valor, 
purity,  and  truth.  But,  sir,  while  we  may  regret  the  necessity  that 
sunders  the  bonds  of  earthly  existence  and  view  with  sorrow  from  life's 
circle  its  gems  drop  away,  we  must  bend  to  an  inexorable  fate  and  bow 
with  submission  to  the  Will  of  Providence !  "The  boast  of  heraldry,  the 
pomp  of  power,  all  that  beauty,  all  that  wealth  e'er  gave,  await  alike 
the  inevitable  hour.  The  path  of  glory  leads  but  to  the  grave."  And 
now,  sir,  with  hearts  alive  to  the  duties  of  the  occasion  we  bid  you  wel- 
come here,  and  thrice  welcome  the  mortal  remains  of  the  gallant  Com- 
modore James  McKay  Mcintosh  to  a  final  interment  in  the  soil  of  his 
native  State,  and  the  county  of  his  birth ! 

To  this  I  replied : 

Gentlemen  of  the  Liberty  Independent  Troop  and  Citizens  of  Lib- 
erty County:  In  behalf  of  the  widow  and  children  and  the  relatives  of 
the  deceased  I  tender  you  their  warm  and  heartfelt  acknowledgments 
of  the  consideration  and  respect  thus  shown  to  his  memory.  It  would 
have  been  a  satisfaction  (melancholy,  it  is  true)  to  his  old  comrade-in- 
arms, and  brother  friend,  the  gallant  Tatnall,  to  have  responded  to  the 
kind  words  that  have  been  spoken.  It  was  his  intention  and  earnest 
desire  to  accompany  the  remains  of  his  deceased  friend  to  their  last 
resting  place,  but  danger  threatens  our  people  and  he  stands  at  his  post 
ready  to  meet  it.  His  duty  to  his  State  alone  prevents  his  being  here, 
and  I  know  that  the  noble  spirit  of  his  late  comrade  looks  down  from 
Aloft  with  responsive  sympathy  and  approval.  Again  do  I  thank  you 
in  behalf  of  the  family  and  friends  of  the  gallant  departed,  and  beg  to 
present  as  one  of  his  relatives  my  own  warm  appreciation  of  your  sym- 
pathy and  consideration. 

My  command  in  the  service  of  my  State  was  destined  to 
be  a  very  short  one.  I  had  two  or  three  more  trips  south- 
ward, including  a  very  pleasant  Sunday,  when  we  anchored 
off  Cumberland  Island,  and  I  spent  a  few  hours  with  my 
friend  Mr.  Nightengale  and  family.  On  returning  to 
Savannah,  headquarters  for  reporting  my  movements,  the 
last  week  in  April,  I  received  "confidential  orders"  from 
the  Confederate  Government  at  Montgomery  to  "report 
to  Captain  R.  Semmes,  at  New  Orleans,  without  delay." 


Chapter  II 

The  first  day  of  May  I  parted  from  my  family  at  Macon, 
Georgia,  as  I  thought  for  a  few  short  months,  but  as  it 
proved  in  the  Providence  of  God,  and  in  the  line  of  my 
duty,  for  three  years  and  four  months  of  the  most  eventful 
period  of  my  life.  Fort  Sumter  had  surrendered  and  the 
times  were  assuming  a  warlike  aspect,  foreshadowing  our 
years  of  deadly  strife.  Of  this  great  war  I  do  not  propose 
to  write  a  history.  Abler  pens  than  mine  have  under- 
taken this  work,  some  satisfactorily.  The  book  written 
by  my  great  commander  and  senior,  Admiral  Semmes, — 
worthy  an  honored  place  in  the  library  of  every  cultivated 
American, — discussed  the  questions  of  national  and  politi- 
cal significance  of  those  troublous  times.  I  only  wish  to 
give  to  posterity  and  to  history  in  these  recollections  of  my 
life  the  part  it  was  my  duty  and  my  privilege  to  act  in  the 
great  drama  of  the  Civil  War  between  the  States.  I  trust 
I  have  in  some  measure  outlived  the  animosities  of  those 
"times  that  tried  men's  souls,"  at  least  sufficiently  so  to 
hold  the  impartial  pen  of  truth,  without  which  history  (no 
matter  how  sensationally  or  attractively  adorned  or  be- 
decked) must  be  utterly  valueless! 

Arriving  in  New  Orleans  on  the  third  day  of  May  I 
reported  for  duty  to  Captain  Semmes,  who  had  preceded 
me  by  a  week  or  ten  days.  During  a  long  talk  with  him 
I  found  that  a  steamer  had  been  purchased  by  the  Con- 
federate Government,  which  he  was  to  command,  and  that 
at  his  request  I  had  been  ordered  to  this  vessel  as  executive 
officer.  I  found  her  a  neat,  fast  passenger  steamer  that 
could  be  converted  into  a  vessel  of  war,  but  many  altera- 
tions were  required  for  this  purpose.  The  captain  had 
immediately  upon  arrival  commenced  this  work  of  re- 
10 


146  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

modelling.  I  found  her  at  Algiers,  the  shipyard  across 
the  river,  and  as  many  workmen  as  could  be  employed 
were  cutting  away  the  light  passenger  cabins,  strengthen- 
ing decks  for  supporting  the  battery,  and  shaping  her  for 
her  destined  work.  This  was  no  easy  task  to  perform  with 
the  appliances  at  our  command.  Our  pivot  gun,  whose 
unique  carriage  and  circles  was  constructed  of  railroad 
iron, — the  ingenuity  of  whose  construction  was  due  to  the 
inventive  genius  of  Mr.  Roy, — proving  the  truth  of  the 
trite  old  adage,  ''necessity  is  the  mother  of  invention." 
Our  32-pounders  (four  in  number,  as  broadside  guns)  were 
furnished  us  from  the  Norfolk  Navy  Yard,  but  the  gun 
carriages  had  to  be  improvised,  and  wTere  very  creditably 
gotten  up  by  our  mechanics  at  the  shipyard. 

In  a  few  days  all  our  officers  reported  for  duty  and  were 
detailed  for  superintending  work  in  the  different  depart- 
ments. With  the  great  disadvantages  under  which  we 
labored  our  work  progressed  slowly,  and  consumed  much 
more  time  than  we  anticipated.  During  this  detention  in 
fitting  our  ship  for  sea  the  enemy  had  secured  a  blockade 
of  the  mouths  of  the  Mississippi  River,  quite  effectually 
making  the  hope  of  our  escaping  lessen  day  by  day,  but 
the  delay  was  unavoidable.  About  this  time  we  had  a  sad 
accident,  resulting  in  the  loss  by  drowning  of  one  of  our 
young  officers,  Midshipman  John  F.,.  Holden,  of  Tennes- 
see. While  performing  the  difficult  task  of  taking  out  an 
anchor  for  the  Sumter,  as  she  lay  in  the  swift  current  of  the 
Mississippi,  his  boat  capsized,  and  before  assistance  could 
be  rendered  three  of  the  crew,  with  himself,  were  drowned. 

On  the  third  of  June  work  had  progressed  sufficiently 
for  us  to  put  the  Sumter  in  commission.  Our  colors  were 
presented  by  some  fair  ladies  of  New  Orleans.  After 
completing  our  outfit  we  invited  on  board  a  number  of 
prominent  citizens  of  New  Orleans,  together  with  the 
ladies  who  had  presented  our  flag,  to  accompany  us  on  a 
trial  trip  up  the  river,  when  we  tested  the  speed  of  the 
ship  and  the  quality  of  our  battery,  both  of  which  proved 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  147 

quite  satisfactory.  On  the  18th  of  June  we  steamed  down 
to  the  barracks  below  the  city  to  take  in  our  powder,  and 
that  night,  with  a  beautiful  moon  shining,  we  continued 
our  passage  down  the  river  and  by  daylight  next  morning 
came  to  anchor  off  Fort  Jackson.  Here  we  remained  sev- 
eral days,  exercising  our  crew  with  the  battery. 

Although  our  crew  were  most  of  them  fine  sailors,  they 
were  not  "men-of-war's  men,"  and  had  to  be  drilled  at  the 
guns.  Our  crew  at  this  time  consisted  of  92  men,  20  of 
whom  were  marines.     Our  officers  were  as  follows : 

Commander,  Raphael  Semmes;  First  Lieutenant,  John 
M.  Kell;  Lieutenants,  Robert  T.  Chapman,  John  M.  Strib- 
ling,  William  E.  Evans;  Surgeon,  Francis  L.  Gait;  Pay- 
master, Henry  Myers;  Captain's  Clerk,  W.  B.  Smith;  Lieu- 
tenant of  Marines,  B.  Howell;  Midshipmen,  Richard  F. 
Armstrong,  William  A.  Hicks,  Albert  G.  Hudgins,  Joseph 
D.  Wilson;  Engineers,  Miles  J.  Freeman,  William  P. 
Brooks,  Mathew  O'Brien,  Simeon  W.  Cummings;  Boats- 
wain, B.  P.  Macasky;  Gunner,  Thomas  C.  Cuddy;  Sail- 
maker,  W.  P.  Beaufort;  Carpenter,  William  Robinson. 

On  the  2 1  st  of  June  we  hoisted  anchor  and  dropped 
down  to  the  head  of  the  passes  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
advantage  of  the  movements  of  the  blockading  fleet.  The 
Frigate  Brooklyn  was  at  Pass  a  la  Loutre  and  the  Powhatan 
was  at  Southwest  Pass.  To  our  great  annoyance  we  had 
some  difficulty  in  getting  a  pilot.  Captain  Semmes  dis- 
patched an  officer  to  the  pilot's  station  with  a  written 
demand  that  a  pilot  be  sent  immediately  on  board  the 
Sumter.  They  furnished  a  very  inefficient  one,  who,  when 
the  opportunity  offered,  declared  that  he  knew  nothing 
of  Pass  a  la  Loutre.  Captain  Semmes,  realizing  that  the 
opportunity  could  not  be  allowed  to  pass,  sternly  ordered 
him  to  "take  us  out,  and  if  he  ran  us  ashore  or  put  us  in 
the  hands  of  the  enemy  he  would  swing  him  to  the  yard- 
arm  as  a  traitor."  This  threat  convinced  the  pilot  that 
Captain  Semmes  "meant  business"  and  could  not  be  trifled 
with,  and  alarmed  him  very  much,  but  at  the  same  time 


148  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

we  hoisted  a  pilot  signal.  This  opportunity  was  given  us 
by  the  Brooklyn  giving  chase  to  a  vessel  off  the  harbor. 
All  hands  were  called  to  "up  anchor,"  and  the  engineer 
ordered  to  get  up  steam.     This  was  eagerly  obeyed. 

Our  crew  had  been  so  tormented  with  the  heat  and  mos- 
quitoes in  the  river  below  New  Orleans  that  they  begged 
to  go  to  sea  and  fight  the  enemy,  rather  than  endure  such 
torture,  with  consequent  loss  of  sleep  and  rest.  We  were 
soon  on  our  way.  As  we  approached  the  pilot  station  we 
saw  a  small  boat  shove  out  from  the  shore,  and  in  less 
time  than  it  can  be  told  the  boat  was  alongside  of  us  and 
a  line  thrown  out  to  pull  it  to  our  gangway  without  stop- 
ping our  headway,  and  the  next  moment  a  stalwart  young 
fellow  jumped  over  our  side  and  took  his  position  at  our 
pilot  stand,  saying,  "give  her  all  the  steam  she  can  carry." 
During  this  time  at  the  pilot  station  handkerchiefs  were 
waving  and  all  eyes  turned  in  that  direction  saw  the  pilot's 
young  wife  and  sister  were  waving  him  and  us  God-speed 
and  success !  This  was  the  last  we  were  to  see  of  the 
South  and  our  native  shores  for  long  months  and  years ! 

As  we  approached  the  bar  there  was  a  vessel  ashore 
with  hawsers  across  the  stream  to  haul  her  off,  which  by 
signal  of  the  pilot  were  slackened  up  to  allow  us  to  pass. 
As  we  rounded  this  point  of  the  bar  the  pilot  said :  "Cap- 
tain, she's  all  free;  give  her  hell  and  let  her  go."  Order- 
ing his  little  boat  to  haul  alongside,  the  next  moment  he 
and  the  old  pilot  (now  supremely  happy)  jumped  in,  cast 
off  their  lines,  and  pulled  for  the  shore.  The  Brooklyn 
was  now  approaching  us  (having  given  up  her  chase) 
under  full  steam  and  sail.  We  shaped  our  course  to  the 
east,  hugging  the  wind  as  close  as  our  yards  could  brace, 
and  putting  on  all  the  steam  we  could  carry.  We  had  the 
advantage  of  the  Brooklyn  in  laying  closer  to  the  wind  and 
thus  eating  to  windward  of  her.  With  a  smooth  sea  we 
held  our  own,  and  after  a  chase  of  forty  miles  she  fired  a 
gun,  which  fell  short,  and  putting  up  her  helm  and  clewing 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  149 

up  all  sails  she  gave  up  the  chase  and  steamed  quietly  back 
to  her  anchorage  at  the  mouth  of  the  passes. 

Seeing  our  advantage,  and  being  greatly  relieved,  we 
manned  our  yards  and  gave  "three  cheers  for  the  Southern 
Confederacy!"  All  hands  were  ordered  down  to  ''splice 
the  main  brace,"  in  other  words,  to  take  a  drink  to  the 
success  of  our  cause.  The  next  order  was  to  secure  our 
guns  and  anchors  for  sea,  always  keeping  a  bright  lookout 
for  sails,  as  of  course  we  were  now  in  the  track  of  the 
enemy's  cruisers.  We  made  a  pleasant  run  that  night, 
and  the  next  morning,  the  second  day  of  July,  was  a  lovely 
day.  We  shaped  our  course  to  pass  to  the  south  side  of 
Cuba,  not  sighting  any  sail,  for  which  we  were  thankful, 
as  we  wished  to  pass  out  of  the  land-locked  waters  of  the 
Gulf. 

On  our  third  day  out  a  sail  was  reported  from  the  mast- 
head standing  to  westward.  As  she  approached  her  lines 
and  sails  satisfied  us  that  she  was  the  enemy's  ship.  We 
rapidly  neared  her  and  fired  a  gun  and  hove  her  to.  Captain 
Semmes  sent  a  boat  on  board,  with  which  the  captain  re- 
turned, bringing  his  papers.  She  hailed  from  Maine,  "way 
down  East,"  and  was  named  the  Golden  Rocket.  She  was 
in  ballast  on  her  way  to  Havana  for  orders.  The  captain 
upon  being  told  that  his  ship  would  be  burned  expressed 
great  sorrow,  which  touched  our  hearts.  He  stated  "that 
he  had  lost  one  ship,  and  now  to  have  this  one  destroyed 
he  would  be  a  ruined  man,  and  could  never  hope  to  have 
another  command."  He  was  told  to  return  to  his  ship, 
gather  up  the  goods  and  chattels  of  his  own  and  the  crew, 
and  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  boat  directed  to  set  fire  to 
the  ship.  Seeing  his  ship  in  flames  he  shed  tears,  and  we 
were  so  sympathetic  we  at  once  made  up  a  purse  for  him. 
It  was  a  sad  sight  to  sailors'  eyes,  the  burning  of  a  fine 
ship.  We  had  not  then  grown  accustomed  to  the  sight 
with  hardened  hearts.  Some  weeks  afterwards  we  read 
through  the  Northern  papers  his  account  of  the  capture, 
in  which  he  denounced  us  as  pirates,  etc.     This  proved  a 


150  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

check  to  our  unappreciated  generosity  and  closed  our  sym- 
pathetic hearts  to  future  expressions  of  woe  on  the  part  of 
our  enemies. 

The  following  day,  continuing  our  course  eastward,  we 
descried  two  sails,  apparently  brigantines.  We  fired  blank 
cartridges  to  heave  them  to.  They  proved  to  be  Ameri- 
can, loaded  with  sugar  for  English  ports,  one  named  the 
Cuba  and  the  other  the  Machias.  We  placed  a  prize  crew 
on  one  and  took  the  other  in  tow.  We  could  not  burn 
them,  as  their  cargo  was  neutral,  so  we  determined  to  take 
them  to  Cienfuegos  and  place  them  in  the  hands  of  a  prize 
master  till  their  capture  should  be  proved  legal.  Our 
midshipman,  the  prize  master  in  charge  of  the  Cuba,  inad- 
vertently went  aloft  to  look  out  for  land,  and  a  portion  of 
his  crew  proving  treacherous,  he  was  shot  and  wounded 
and  had  to  surrender.  The  other  brig  we  had  to  cast  off 
(and  put  in  the  hands  of  a  prize  master)  to  accelerate  our 
movements  to  make  other  captures.  The  same  afternoon 
we  took  the  Adams,  of  Massachusetts,  and  the  Ben  Dun- 
ning, of  Maine.  We  put  prize  crews  on  board  and  directed 
them  to  hold  on  to  the  light-house  at  Cienfuegos  till  day- 
light. At  that  time,  as  we  anticipated,  several  other  sails 
came  out  with  the  land  breeze.  We  allowed  them  to  pass 
beyond  the  marine  league,  which  is  the  limit  of  neutrality 
by  international  law.  By  10  o'clock  a.  m.  we  had  cap- 
tured three  more  ships,  two  barks,  named,  respectively, 
West  Wind,  of  Rhode  Island,  and  Louisa  Kilham,  of  Mas- 
sachusetts; also  the  Brigantine  Naiad,  of  New  York. 
When  we  set  sail  we  had  quite  a  little  fleet  proceeding  to 
Cienfuegos.  On  passing  the  fort  the  commanding  officer 
fired  over  our  heads  two  ball  cartridges  from  muskets 
and  directed  us  to  come  to  anchor,  our  prizes  going  on. 
We  dispatched  an  officer  to  the  fort  to  demand  an  ex- 
planation of  this  conduct.  The  officer  replied  that  "our 
flag  was  a  strange  one  among  the  nations  of  the  earth,  and 
having  never  been  seen  in  these  waters  before  he  could  not 
let  it  pass."     In  a  short  time  the  commandant  at  the  fort 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  151 

called  upon  Captain  Semmes,  with  permission  from  the 
Governor  of  Cienfuegos  to  proceed  to  the  town.  We 
ordered  one  hundred  tons  of  coal  to  be  brought  to  us  in 
launches,  and  in  thirty-six  hours  we  were  ready  for  sea. 
The  captain  visited  the  shore  to  take  observations  to  test 
his  chronometers,  taking  with  him  the  junior  lieutenant. 
Upon  their  return  on  board  we  made  ready  for  sea,  leaving 
about  midnight. 

Our  course  was  now  shaped  for  the  Island  of  Barbadoes, 
from  there  for  Cape  St.  Roque,  where  we  hoped  to  inter- 
cept the  northern  trade  for  the  Pacific  and  the  East  Indies. 
The  trade  winds,  however,  were  so  strong  against  us,  as 
well  as  the  current,  that  after  seven  days  out,  finding  yA 
our  coal  nearly  exhausted,  we  had  to  resort  to  sail,  and 
N-J  hoisting  our  propeller  we  sailed  with  the  wind  a  point  free  '.- - 1 
for  the  Island  of  Curacoa,  which  lay  to  leeward  of  us.  We  (^ 
encountered  some  very  rough  weather  on  this  passage,  ( 
but  on  the  17th  day  of  July  got  up  steam  and  reduced  sail 
to  enter  the  port.  We  made  signal  for  a  pilot,  who  came 
off  to  us  late  in  the  evening,  but  after  ascertaining  our 
nationality  he  informed  us  "that  it  was  too  late  to  get  up 
to  St.  Anne  (the  little  town),  but  he  would  come  the  first 
thing  in  the  morning  to  carry  us  in."  Upon  his  return  to 
shore  and  advising  the  American  Consul  of  our  nationality, 
the  consul  entered  a  protest  against  our  being  allowed  to 
come  into  port,  regarding  our  war  as  a  rebellion.  Captain 
Semmes,  feeling  justly  incensed,  wrote  a  letter  to  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Island  asking  that  he  give  a  written  statement 
that  Holland  had  closed  her  ports  against  the  Confederacy. 
If  such  were  the  case  he  wished  to  report  the  same  to  his 
Government.  Lieutenant  Chapman  delivered  this  letter 
in  person.  A  parley  of  all  the  Island  officials  was  held, 
and  in  two  hours  Chapman  returned,  with  the  news  that 
we  could  enter  port.  We  steamed  in,  passing  through  a 
small  entrance,  almost  like  a  canal,  with  hotel  and  stores 
on  either  side,  opening  into  a  little  lake.  We  rounded  to, 
let  go  our  anchor,  hoisted  our  boats  and  spread  awnings, 


152  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

and  a  few  minutes  after  were  surrounded  by  bumboats 
ready  to  supply  us  with  fruits,  vegetables,  and  everything 
pertaining  to  the  tropics.  Our  purser  was  dispatched  to 
purchase,  and  we  at  once  set  to  work,  with  lighters  along- 
side, to  coal  ship.  The  water  here  is  so  beautifully  clear 
and  transparent  that  one  of  the  amusements  of  our  men 
was  to  throw  silver  coin  of  the  smallest  size  in  the  water 
and  see  the  little  boys — the  street  "gamin"  of  the  town — 
dive  for  them  and  bring  them  up  from  water  fathoms  deep 
before  they  reached  the  bottom. 

The  American  Consul  gave  us  some  trouble  here,  tam- 
pering with  our  men  and  trying  to  induce  them  to  "desert 
from  the  piratical  craft."  After  coaling,  watering  ship, 
and  laying  in  fresh  stores,  we  left  this  little  land-locked 
harbor,  trying  our  course  to  the  eastward,  against  the 
strong  trade  wind  and  equatorial  current.  We  stood  over 
to  the  Spanish  Main  to  intercept  the  trade  with  that  coast. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  following  day  "sail  ho !"  was 
cried  from  aloft,  and  by  half-past  six  o'clock  we  had  cap- 
tured the  schooner  Abby  Bradford,  loaded  with  flour  and 
provisions,  bound  for  Puerto  Cabello.  There  was  no  mis- 
taking the  "cut  of  her  jib" — she  was  a  "down  Easter." 
We  took  her  in  tow  and  proceeded  to  port.  In  the  even- 
ing we  cast  off  the  Bradford,  with  orders  for  her  to  hold  on 
to  the  light,  as  we  did.  There  being  light  land  breezes 
and  no  current,  we  easily  held  our  position  all  night.  The 
next  morning  Captain  Semmes  communicated  with  the 
governor  in  regard  to  leaving  the  prize  in  the  port  till 
properly  disposed  of.  The  governor  objected  most  de- 
cidedly to  this,  whereupon  the  captain  concluded  to  run  the 
risk  of  sending  her  in  to  the  Confederacy  with  her  cargo 
of  provisions,  placing  on  her  an  intelligent  quartermaster, 
who  had  some  knowledge  of  navigation.  He  was  to  take 
her  in  by  the  western  passes  to  New  Orleans.  In  making 
this  attempt,  approaching  too  near  the  passes,  she  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  enemy,  and  our  prize  crew  were  taken 
prisoners,   but  were  not  long  in  being  released  or  ex- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  153 

changed.  We  got  clear  of  the  harbor,  and  it  was  not 
long  before  we  discovered  a  sail  in  sight.  We  chased  her 
seven  or  eight  miles  and  finally  captured  her.  She  was  a 
bark  bound  for  Puerto  Cabello,  a  part  of  her  cargo  belong- 
ing to  a  Venezuelan  merchant  of  that  city,  and  was  named 
Joseph  Maxwell.  Captain  Semmes  hoped  to  induce  the 
governor  to  allow  the  vessel  to  remain  as  a  prize  till  law- 
fully adjudicated,  he  giving  up  the  neutral  portion  of  the 
cargo.  The  governor,  being  influenced  by  the  American 
Consul,  disputed  the  capture  as  within  the  marine  league. 
This  being  so  foreign  to  the  truth  or  facts,  Captain 
Semmes  decided  to  place  a  prize  crew  on  board,  with  Mid- 
shipman Hicks  in  charge,  to  take  her  to  a  Cuban  port  to 
be  placed  in  the  hands  of  our  agent  there,  then  with  his 
crew  to  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  the  Confederacy. 

We  now  put  out  under  steam  to  continue  our  voyage 
eastward,  and  to  avoid  the  current  setting  westward  we 
hugged  the  coast  of  Venezuela  with  its  high  mountains 
running  up  from  the  sea.  By  this  track  we  avoided  the 
trade  winds  and  partook  of  some  of  the  influence  of  the 
land  breeze.  In  making  this  trip  we  encountered  heavy 
rain  with  violent  thunder  storms  and  vivid  lightning.  In 
these  waters  we  passed  over  the  coral  reefs  surrounding 
the  islands  called  the  ''Friars,"  from  their  resemblance  to 
monks'  heads.  Looking  down  in  the  pellucid  waters  one 
sees  exquisite  landscapes  and  fish  of  every  brilliant  hue. 
I  am  sure  that  Jules  Verne  could  never  have  visited  these 
enchanted  waters,  or  we  should  long  ago  have  been  treated 
to  a  description  of  them  from  his  marvelous  pen.  The 
next  land  we  sighted  was  the  "Dragon's  Mouth,"  three 
islands  so  called  from  their  peculiar  shape.  Through 
these  we  passed  and  entered  the  port  of  Spain  on  the 
Island  of  Trinidad.  On  this  island  is  that  wonderful  freak 
of  Nature,  a  lake  of  pure  asphalt,  a  liquid  almost  as  black 
as  jet,  which  since  that  day  commerce  has  made  wonder- 
fully useful. 


154  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Upon  my  visit  to  the  shore  with  a  brother  officer,  walk- 
ing in  the  principal  street  of  the  town,  what  was  my 
surprise  to  be  greeted  by  name.  A  former  resident  of 
Savannah,  Georgia,  whom  I  knew  in  my  early  youth,  had 
become  a  resident  of  this  island.  Mr.  Cunningham  was 
very  cordial  in  his  greeting  and  invited  us  to  his  house  to 
tea.  There  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  his  sister,  who 
was  making  a  home  for  him  on  the  distant  Island  of  Trini- 
dad. Their  comfortable  house  was  literally  embowered 
with  vines,  and  sat  enthroned  in  the  most  beautiful  and 
luxuriant  tropical  foliage.  We  enjoyed  the  evening  with 
them  very  much,  and  they  no  doubt  enjoyed  the  talk  of 
old  friends  and  their  loved  former  home  in  Savannah,  for 
I  was  able  to  give  them  late  news,  having  had  my  head- 
quarters in  that  city  when  in  command  of  the  little  steamer 
Savannah,  I  being  on  duty  there  when  ordered  to  the 
Sumter.  We  were  allowed  to  coal  here,  which  delayed  us 
only  a  day  or  two,  after  which  we  continued  our  course  to 
the  eastward,  passing  through  what  is  called  the  "Mona 
Passage"  from  the  Caribbean  Sea  into  the  broad  Atlantic. 

The  coast  of  Trinidad  is  very  picturesque  and  mountain- 
ous— one  might  almost  say  precipitous — and  Nature  there 
seems  evergreen,  so  bountiful  and  beautiful  is  the  foliage 
of  shrubs  and  trees.  As  is  usual  in  such  countries  and  cli- 
mates, bird  life  is  very  abundant  and  the  plumage  gor- 
geous and  beautiful.  Water  fowls,  pelicans,  etc.,  and  in 
the  interior  parrots  and  paroquets  and  the  brilliant  little 
humming  birds  fill  the  air.  We  were  told  that  there  was 
a  small  species  of  deer  on  the  island,  but  we  had  no  time  in 
our  busy  cruise  to  devote  to  the  pleasures  of  hunting,  and 
the  chase  to  which  we  were  to  devote  ourselves  was  the 
chase  of  ships,  and  not  of  the  harmless  denizens  of  the 
forest ! 

We  pursued  our  course,  contending  with  wind  and  cur- 
rent (which  were  both  against  us  and  increased  daily),  with 
a  clear  sky  overhead.  Thus  we  ran  on  for  some  days, 
when  it  became  evident  (our  coal  running  short)  that  we 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  155 

would  have  to  seek  a  port  to  leeward.  Captain  Semmes 
ordered  the  fires  banked  and  sail  to  be  made,  shaping  our 
course  to  Cayenne,  in  French  Guiana.  There  we  hoped 
to  re-coal,  and  from  there  continue  our  course  to  our  de- 
sired cruising  ground  for  intercepting  the  trade  which 
passes  around  Cape  St.  Roque  from  the  Pacific  and  East 
Indies — in  other  words,  all  the  trade  south  of  the  equator 
bound  to  Northern  ports.  As  we  approached  Cayenne, 
the  Capital  of  French  Guiana  (also  a  penal  settlement  of 
France  at  that  time),  we  found  a  pilot-boat  waiting  to  take 
us  to  a  suitable  anchorage.  Shortly  after  we  arrived  we 
heard  salutes  being  fired,  and  upon  inquiry  found  it  was 
in,  honor  of  the  birthday  of  the  French  Emperor,  Louis 
Napoleon,  it  being  the  15th  day  of  August.  We  found 
Cayenne  and  its  people  rather  inhospitable,  and  we  could 
make  no  purchase  of  coal,  so  we  proceeded  down  the  coast 
in  the  direction  of  Dutch  Guiana.  The  water  on  this  coast 
is  very  shallow,  averaging  from  three  to  five  fathoms.  We 
passed  some  beautiful  islands.  On  the  crown  of  one  of 
the  islands  were  some  guns  mounted,  and  a  fine  looking 
building,  which  we  learned  was  a  French  hospital  or  sani- 
tarium for  sick  soldiers  and  sailors. 

On  Sunday,  the  18th  of  August,  we  approached  the 
mouth  of  the  Surinam  River,  when  the  lookout  reported 
a  steamer  standing  towards  us.  We  at  once  got  up  steam 
and  beat  to  quarters,  to  be  ready  for  a  fight  if  necessary. 
All  the  indications  were  that  she  was  about  our  size  and 
battery;  but  our  anxiety  was  somewhat  relieved  by  her 
coming  to  anchor  about  nightfall.  We  now  came  to 
anchor  and  the  crew  were  allowed  to  leave  their  quarters 
and  turn  in  for  a  rest,  not  knowing  "what  a  night  might 
bring  forth."  The  next  morning  we  got  under  way  at 
daylight.  We  exchanged  colors  with  the  steamer.  It 
proved  to  be  a  Frenchman,  bound  up  the  river  for  Para- 
maribo, as  we  were.  They  got  a  pilot  from  the  light- 
boat  and  we  followed  close  in  their  wake.  We  steamed 
up  the   river,   the  scenery   of  which   resembling  that   of 


\ 


156  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Southern  rivers,  with  sugar  plantations  on  either  side,  but 
far  more  tropical,  even,  than  our  Southern  waters. 

Paramaribo  is  the  capital  city  of  Dutch  Guiana,  and  what 
strikes  one  most  about  the  city  is  the  growth  of  the  tama- 
rind tree,  of  which  there  are  beautiful  avenues  on  every 
side.  It  somewhat  resembles  the  live  oak  tree,  though  it 
does  not  grow  to  such  size  or  spread  its  branches  to  the 
extent  of  that  grand  tree.  While  at  Paramaribo  we  had 
a  ball  given  in  our  honor  by  the  "merchant  princes"  of  all 
classes,  without  even  the  distinction  of  color.  Indeed,  the 
coal  merchant  who  favored  us  most  was  a  quadroon,  and 
quite  a  gentleman,  having  been  thoroughly  educated  and 
cultivated  in  Holland.  The  daughters  of  this  man  were 
among  the  prominent  belles  and  beauties  at  this  ball,  be- 
decked with  diamonds  and  attired  in  handsome  Parisian 
gowns,  and  were  very  graceful  in  the  dance  as  they  were 
led  through  its  mazy  intricacies  by  our  brass-buttoned, 
lace-bedecked  young  officers.  "When  one  is  in  Rome 
one  should  do  as  Rome  does,"  etc.  One  striking  feature 
of  the  ball,  as  the  evening  and  exercise  grew  warm,  was 
the  waving  of  perfume  holders,  which  was  very  refreshing. 
At  a  late  hour  we  repaired  on  board  ship,  feeling  that  we 
had  enjoyed  rather  a  novel  experience  at  the  hands  of  our 
hospitable  entertainers.  But  "variety  is  said  to  be  the 
spice  of  life,"  and  life  has  many  phases. 


Chapter  III 

Having  completed  our  coaling,  we  made  sail  the  fol- 
lowing day,  coasting  prudently  along  to  avoid  the  cur- 
rents as  well  as  the  coral  reefs,  that  are  so  dangerous  on 
that  coast,  taking  advantage  of  the  winds  as  much  as 
possible  to  save  our  coal.  We  felt  our  way  to  the  south- 
ward and  eastward,  making  for  the  port  of  Maranham  in 
Brazil.  We  rounded  Cape  Garupi,  off  which  we  found 
very  uneven  soundings,  causing  us  to  draw  out  as  the 
soundings  shoaled,  and  came  to  anchor  that  night  in  the 
open  sea.  The  next  morning,  upon  heaving  up  our 
anchor,  we  found  it  broken  from  the  pitching  of  the  ship 
and  the  surging  of  the  windlass.  Not  seeing  any  pilot- 
boat,  we  continued  our  course  under  constant  use  of  the 
lead  and  line,  drawing  off  as  we  shoaled  the  water.  Sud- 
denly we  ran  upon  a  reef,  which  gave  a  shock  to  all  on 
board.  The  engine  was  stopped  and  reversed,  when  the 
influence  of  the  tide  in  this  reversed  condition  swung  us 
clear.  Some  fishermen  about  half  a  mile  from  us  made 
attempts  to  warn  us  of  our  danger,  whereupon  we  at  once 
came  to  anchor  and  sent  a  boat  for  one  of  them  to  come 
and  pilot  us.  To  our  great  relief  he  did  so,  and  with  this 
aid  we  hove  up  anchor  and  stood  in  for  the  town  of  Maran- 
ham. There  we  arrived  safely,  through  an  almost  miracu- 
lous escape  from  wreckage  on  the  coral  reefs.  Our  little 
ship  showed  no  evidence  of  injury. 

We  arrived  in  Maranham  on  the  7th  of  September,  a 
gala  day  to  Brazil, — as  the  4th  of  July  is  to  America, — 
the  day  of  Brazilian  independence  and  establishment  of 
an  empire.  The  customary  official  visits  were  paid,  and 
here  Captain  Semmes  took  a  little  needed  rest  in  a  refresh- 
ing visit  to  the  shore,  while  we  coaled,  provisioned,  refitted 


158  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

and  repainted  ship.  The  men  were  given  "liberty  days," 
and  the  officers  enjoyed  their  strolls  ashore,  where  they 
were  hospitably  received  and  entertained  at  the  various 
city  clubs,  and  met  many  pleasant  people.  The  middle  of 
September  found  us  ready  for  sea,  and  getting  a  pilot  on 
board  we  left  the  harbor  under  favorable  auspices,  and  with 
pleasant  recollections.  The  following  day  found  us  out 
of  sight  of  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and  in  a  favorable  position 
to  intercept  the  trade,  which  had  been  the  object  of  our 
cruise  for  some  months  past. 

We  now  let  the  steam  go  down  and  uncoupled  the  pro- 
peller and  cruised  under  sail.  After  some  days  sailing  we 
encountered  some  most  remarkable  phenomena  in  tidal 
waves  and  currents,  which  would  occur  at  certain  hours 
of  the  day.  Like  a  wall  of  water,  roaring  and  foaming  in 
its  approach  like  a  cataract,  it  would  toss  the  little  ship 
about  like  a  plaything,  making  it  difficult  to  keep  one's 
footing.  As  often  as  I  had  crossed  the  equatorial  line  I 
had  never  before  witnessed  these  tide-rips.  As  they 
rolled  to  the  northward  and  westward  all  would  become 
calm  again.  After  remaining  in  this  latitude  and  longi- 
tude for  a  few  days,  one  morning  the  cry  of  "sail  ho !"  was 
reported  from  the  masthead — a  very  welcome  cry,  for  the 
quiet  of  the  calm  belt  was  growing  very  monotonous. 
Hoisting  the  "Stars  and  Stripes"  from  our  peak  they  were 
replied  to  by  the  same  flag.  As  the  brigantine  approached 
near  enough  to  hail  we  hauled  down  the  United  States 
flag  and  hoisted  our  own,  requiring  him  to  "heave  to." 
We  found  the  vessel  the  Joseph  Parke,  of  Boston.  We 
kept  the  Parke  for  awhile,  putting  Lieutenant  Evans  and 
a  prize  crew  on  board,  to  be  used  as  a  scout.  To  our 
astonishment  we  found  the  ocean  almost  devoid  of  the 
enemy's  flag,  and  after  keeping  the  Parke  a  day  or  two 
longer  we  concluded  to  make  use  of  her  as  a  target  before 
burning  her,  which  was  her  final  fate.  It  was  a  great 
disappointment  to  us  to  find  this  highway  of  trade  almost 
deserted  by  the  Federal  vessels,  for  we  had  long  looked 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  159 

forward  to  reach  this  cruising  ground,  with  hope  of  great 
success.  The  neutral  ships  were  abundant,  but  the  enemy 
had  grown  wary.  One  little  English  Brigantine,  The 
Spartan,  resembled  the  Yankee  so  closely  that  we  gave  her 
a  long,  stern  chase.  We  made  her  "heave  to"  with  the 
American  flag  at  our  peak.  Upon  boarding  her  we  found 
her  a  Nova  Scotian,  with  clean  hull  and  long,  tapering 
mast.  The  captain  (no  doubt  out  of  patience  with  the 
chase  we  had  given  him  and  not  in  the  best  of  humor), 
upon  being  asked  the  latest  news,  told  us  "we  [he  sup- 
posed we  were  Yankees]  had  been  whipped  like  the  devil 
at  Manassas;"  and  he  did  not  seem  at  all  sorry  for  it !  Our 
boarding  officer  remarked  upon  his  apparent  "want  of 
sympathy,"  when  like  a  true  Briton  he  replied,  "I  like 
pluck,  and  never  like  to  see  a  bully  try  to  whip  a  little  fel- 
low." Of  course  we  enjoyed  the  joke,  and  so  did  he. 
We  continued  in  this  latitude  some  days  and  encountered 
more  of  the  tide-rips,  and  some  very  tempestuous  weather 
as  we  were  nearing  the  northeast  trade  winds.  We  passed 
through  a  curious  phenomenon  of  Nature  in  a  cloud  of 
yellow  dust,  being  precipitated  apparently  from  the  skies 
on  our  decks. 

On  Sunday,  the  27th  of  October,  while  enjoying  a  fine 
morning  and  a  smooth  sea,  "sail  ho !"  was  cried  from  the 
masthead,  reporting  a  gaff  topsail  schooner,  with  taut 
mast  and  white  sails,  showing  her  Yankee  build.  As  soon 
as  we  could  get  up  steam  we  began  chase.  We  found  her 
very  fast  and  the  chase  was  a  long  one.  When  near 
enough  we  fired  a  blank  cartridge  across  her  bow,  which 
brought  her  to  with  the  "Stars  and  Stripes"  flying  at  her 
masthead.  Upon  boarding  her  she  proved  to  be  the 
Daniel  Trozvbridge,  from  Connecticut,  with  a  cargo  of 
provisions  for  the  Spanish  Main.  This  capture  gave  us  a 
full  supply  of  the  nicest  provisions,  of  which  we  were  much 
in  need, — beef,  pork,  all  the  canned  vegetables  and  fruits 
from  the  Northern  markets,  with  crackers  and  breadstuffs 
of  the  finest  quality,  and  a  deck  load  of  live  stock,  such  as 


160  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

pigs,  sheep,  and  geese.  The  transfer  consumed  a  day  or 
two,  but  was  very  welcome  work  to  Jack,  and  gave  us  sev- 
eral weeks'  provisions. 

We  now  steered  for  Martinique,  and  soon  after  entered 
the  harbor  of  Fort  de  France.  After  coming  to  anchor 
an  officer  was  dispatched  to  pay  the  official  call  on  the 
commanding  officer  of  the  port,  the  French  Admiral 
Conde,  governor  of  the  island.  He  received  our  officer 
very  courteously,  and  showed  a  kindly  disposition  to  the 
Confederacy  and  our  struggling  cause.  The  next  day 
Captain  Semmes  called  upon  him  and  obtained  permission 
to  land  prisoners  and  get  a  supply  of  coal.  This  being  a 
military  port  we  had  to  go  to  St.  Pierre  to  purchase  from 
the  market,  having  sent  our  purser  ahead  to  secure  the 
same  on  reasonable  terms.  We  weighed  anchor  and 
stood  for  St.  Pierre,  where  we  came  to,  close  in  shore, 
with  our  anchor  in  deep  water  and  a  hawser  securing  our 
stern  to  the  shore,  where  we  lay  comfortably  to  coal  and 
have  some  necessary  repairs  done  to  our  machinery. 
After  coaling  ship  and  waiting  for  repairs  we  heard  from 
recent  newspapers  of  the  capture  of  Messrs  Mason  and 
Slidell,  forcibly  taken  from  the  English  Steamer  Trent  by 
Captain  Wilkes,  of  the  United  States  Steamer  San  Jacinto. 
Such  a  high-handed  measure  on  the  part  of  the  United 
States  Government  elated  us  with  the  belief  that  war  with 
England  would  ensue,  not  supposing  for  a  moment  that 
Seward  (the  shrewd  statesman)  would  apologize  or  give 
up  his  prisoners  after  the  approval  and  commendation  of 
the  people  of  the  Federal  States  and  Congress,  and  by  the 
Honorable  Secretary  himself,  of  this  action !  This  act 
was  too  flagrant  a  violation  of  the  laws  of  nations  to  pass. 
Earl  Russell  was  very  positive  in  his  instructions  to  Lord 
Lynns  to  "demand  an  apology  to  be  made  within  seven 
days,  or  return  with  his  legation  and  papers  to  London." 
This  act  of  course  would  mean  a  declaration  of  war,  and 
England  would  have  been  sustained  by  the  European 
powers,  but  the  Secretary  of  War  humbled  himself  and 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  161 

the  Nation  and  he  made  the  apology  demanded.  The. 
Confederate  ministers  and  their  secretaries  were  given  up 
and  the  South  lost  the  opportunity  of  recognition  and  an 
ally,  much  to  our  disgust. 

But  to  proceed  with  our  cruise.  I  leave  history  to  re- 
cord the  facts  that  led  to  the  immediate  restitution  of  the 
Confederate  ministers,  Messrs.  Mason  and  Slidell. 


11 


Chapter  IV 

Martinique  is  one  of  the  Windward  group  of  islands, 
is  of  volcanic  formation,  running  from  north  to  south,  and 
is  in  a  higher  state  of  cultivation  than  the  islands  that  sur- 
round it  of  that  group.  Its  harbors  are  indentures  in 
the  land  formed  on  the  west  side,  and  protected  entirely 
from  the  trade  winds.  St.  Pierre,  its  mercantile  port, 
runs  from  the  top  of  the  mountains  down  to  the  sea,  and 
the  streets  being  paved  so  as  to  leave  a  gutter  in  the  center 
of  the  street,  shower  of  rain  washes  them  clean.  In 
the  rear  of  the  city  are  fine  botanical  gardens,  filled  with 
tropical  plants.  The  grounds  are  beautifully  laid  out. 
with  inviting  springs  here  and  there,  charming  grottoes, 
and  everything  to  please  the  eye  and  taste.  Twenty-four 
hours  after  we  arrived  at  St.  Pierre  the  Federal  steam 
Sloop  of  War  Iroquois  came  in,  evidently  in  search  of  us. 
She  came  near  enough  for  us  to  see  the  great  excitement 
on  board  when  she  found  us  in  port,  with  the  Confederate 
flag  flying  at  our  peak.  We  saw  the  telescopes  brought 
to  bear  upon  us,  and  their  evident  delight  at  what  no  doubt 
seemed  to  them  their  nearness  to  a  long-desired  capture. 
On  board  the  little  Sumter  there  was  a  fiery  spirit  of  resist- 
ance manifested.  Every  man  looked  after  his  side  arms, 
and  made  application  for  putting  in  order  their  short 
Roman  swords  with  which  they  were  armed  as  boarders. 
It  was  remarked  on  board  that  "so  nice  an  edge  was  put 
upon  these  swords  that  they  might  have  been  used  to 
shave  with,"  and  by  sunset  every  man  was  anticipating,  if 
not  desiring,  being  boarded.  The  Sumter  was  snugly 
moored  with  a  long  scope  of  chain  ahead  and  the  stern  fast 
to  a  tree  on  shore.  The  Iroquois  anchored  and  communi- 
cated with  the  shore.     Upon  being  informed  that  if  she 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  163 

anchored  she  would  have  to  remain  in  port  twenty-four 
hours  after  the  departure  of  the  Sumter,  in  accordance  with 
international  law,  she  got  up  anchor  and  stood  out  of  the 
harbor.  As  night  advanced,  however,  she  drew  in  to  the 
shore,  and  about  n  o'clock  made  evident  demonstrations 
of  boarding  us,  as  she  was  heading  for  us  under  a  low  head 
of  steam.  All  hands  were  called  to  quarters  on  the  Sumter, 
the  guns  were  cast  loose  and  trained  upon  the  enemy,  and 
boarders  called  away.  At  this  time  the  Iroquois  rang  a 
bell  from  her  engine  room  and  sheered  off  from  us.  It 
was  only  a  feint,  or  possibly  a  change  of  purpose  upon  see- 
ing we  were  not  to  be  surprised,  but  ready  to  resist.  She 
rang  her  bell  as  signal  to  go  ahead  slowly,  and  steamed 
out  of  the  harbor.  This  was  our  first  night's  experience, 
and  in  the  morning  Captain  Semmes  communicated  to 
the  governor  her  strange  proceedings.  The  governor 
then  communicated  to  Captain  Palmer,  of  the  Iroquois, 
that  he  should  require  him  to  observe  the  neutrality  of  the 
port  and  keep  beyond  the  marine  league.  We  noticed 
the  boats  of  the  Iroquois  plying  between  that  vessel  and  an 
American  schooner  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  learned 
from  acquaintances  on  shore  during  the  day  that  an  officer 
from  the  Iroquois  was  stationed  on  the  little  schooner  to 
give  signals  of  our  movements.  This  was  also  reported 
to  the  governor,  but  no  action  taken  on  it,  and  the  espion- 
age continued. 

We  were  now  through  with  our  coaling  ship  and  repair- 
ing and  were  anxious  to  get  to  sea.  Every  evening  at 
sunset  all  officers  and  men  were  required  to  be  on  board 
and  steam  gotten  up,  in  readiness  to  make  good  our  escape 
if  the  opportunity  offered.  We  had  one  drawback,  the 
moon  and  stars  were  not  in  our  favor,  and  not  until  the 
ninth  day  of  waiting  did  we  find  that  the  night  would  be 
sufficiently  dark  for  us  to  attempt  to  get  out.  On  the 
night  of  the  23d  of  November  everything  was  in  readiness 
and  all  hands  called  to  get  the  ship  under  way — the  ar- 
morer with  tools  for  slipping  the  cable,  the  quartermaster 


164  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

with  axe  to  cut  the  hawser  from  the  stern,  and  the  engi- 
neer with  steam  up,  the  firing  of  the  8  o'clock  gun  being 
the  signal  to  go  ahead.  All  this  was  promptly  done,  and 
at  firing  of  the  gun  the  little  Sumter  bounded  off  like  a 
thing  of  life.  Captain  Semmes  had  a  little  stratagem  of 
his  own  to  carry  out.  He  steamed  across  the  city  lights 
so  that  he  could  easily  be  seen  at  full  speed  steering  south. 
Our  lookout,  instructed  to  report  signals  from  shore,  now 
reported  two  red  lights,  which  we  interpreted  as  going 
south.  After  running  a  short  distance  out  southward 
we  got  under  the  shadow  of  a  very  prominent  boulder, 
stopped  the  engines,  and  while  so  concealed  changed  our 
course  to  the  northward.  Our  glasses  on  the  Iroquois 
showed  her  steaming  rapidly  southward,  and  before  morn- 
ing we  were  many  miles  apart !  Poor  Palmer,  we  heard, 
paid  for  his  want  of  success  by  being  relieved  of  his  com- 
mand. After  this  night  of  great  anxiety  we  shaped  our 
course  for  the  broad  Atlantic.  The  enemy's  cruisers  in 
the  land-locked  waters  of  the  Gulf  were  active  in  pursuit 
of  us,  as  we  found  from  captured  papers,  and  Captain 
Semmes  now  decided  to  make  our  way  to  European 
waters. 

Our  frail  bark  was  built  and  intended  for  only  one  night 
at  sea  in  the  run  from  New  Orleans  to  Havana  and  the 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic  was  a  severe  test  of  her  sea- 
worthiness. Our  course  was  now  to  the  northward  and 
eastward,  which  soon  put  us  in  the  track  of  commerce 
between  Europe  and  the  West  Indies.  We  were  chang- 
ing from  the  temperate  to  the  tropic  zone,  in  which  lati- 
tude we  experienced  much  changeable  weather.  The  sec- 
ond day  out  we  sighted  a  large  ship  standing  in  our  direc- 
tion and  evidently  of  American  build.  We  fired  a  gun 
across  her  bow  and  hoisted  the  American  flag.  She  hove 
to,  with  Stars  and  Stripes  at  her  peak,  and  upon  the  cap- 
tain being  brought  on  board  with  his  papers  she  proved 
to  be  the  Montmorency,  of  Bath,  Maine,  from  England, 
loaded  with  coal  for  the  English  mail  steamers  that  touch 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  166 

at  St.  Thomas.  She  was  bonded  and  allowed  to  proceed 
on  her  way,  as  she  was  carrying  neutral  property  from  a 
neutral  port. 

The  following  day  we  took  the  Arcade,  a  schooner  from 
Portland,  Maine.  There  being  no  papers  to  prove  the 
property  neutral,  we  applied  the  torch  to  her  and  she 
burned  finely.  By  this  prize  we  learned  of  "Dupont's 
grand  naval  victory  at  Port  Royal,"  where  a  fleet  of  war 
vessels  nineteen  in  number,  with  at  least  thirty  transports 
containing  fifteen  thousand  men,  captured  two  mud  forts 
and  a  few  hundred  raw  recruits !  We  now  let  our  fires  go 
down,  lowered  the  smoke-stack  and  uncoupled  the  pro- 
peller, and  put  the  Sumter  under  sail,  as  our  coal  was  be- 
coming exhausted  and  we  were  not  half  way  across  the 
ocean.  On  the  3d  of  December  we  sighted  another  prize. 
As  she  was  running  down  to  us  we  had  no  chase  to  make, 
and  hoisted  the  French  colors.  When  under  our  guns  we 
hove  her  to  with  a  blank  cartridge,  and  sending  an  officer 
on  board  she  proved  to  be  the  Vigilant,  of  Bath,  Maine. 
We  got  late  papers  from  the  North  by  this  ship,  contain- 
ing full  accounts  of  "the  blockade  of  the  pirate  Sumter  by 
Captain  Palmer,"  but  no  account  of  his  want  of  success ! 
There  was  also  a  graphic  description  of  Commodore  Hol- 
lins's  gallant  exploit  in  introducing  the  ironclad  ram  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  (in  October)  into  the  enemy's 
fleet,  which  consisted  of  the  Preble,  the  Water  Witch,  the 
Richmond  and  the  Vincennes.  While  these  vessels  all 
escaped  except  the  concussion  to  the  Richmond  (which 
was  the  ship  assaulted),  the  experiment  proved  of  great 
benefit  to  the  enemy,  whose  unbounded  resources  enabled  1/ 
him  to  introduce  the  Monitor  with  more  favorable  results 
later  in  the  war.  The  crew  of  the  Vigilant  were  equally 
divided  as  to  color,  and  were  messed  accordingly,  all 
seated  at  the  same  mess-cloth.  This  making  no  distinc- 
tion as  to  color  was  very  amusing  to  our  crew,  but  seemed 
to  make  no  difference  to  our  prisoners. 


166  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Our  next  prize  was  the  Eben  Dodge,  from  New  Bedford, 
a  whaler,  bound  for  the  Pacific  Ocean.  From  this  prize 
we  took  a  good  supply  of  fresh  water,  of  which  we  stood 
greatly  in  need,  also  took  stores,  clothing  and  provisions. 
We  took  her  two  line  whaleboats  during  a  rough  and  tem- 
pestuous sea,  and  after  the  arduous  work  of  transferring 
cargo,  burned  the  ship.  The  weather  continued  change- 
able and  the  falling  barometer  indicated  a  coming  storm, 
which  we  prepared  for  by  sending  down  light  spars  and 
sails,  and  on  the  night  of  the  nth  of  December  the  gale 
broke  upon  us  in  all  its  fury.  We  now  put  the  Sumter 
under  close  reefed  top-sails  and  try-sails.  The  wind  and 
fury  of  the  storm  increased  to  such  a  degree  that  I  was 
called  by  the  officer  of  the  deck.  Some  of  our  bow  ports 
were  being  stove  in.  I  summoned  the  carpenter  and  his 
crew  and  barricaded  the  ports,  and  strengthened  her  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  resist  the  violence  of  the  waves  and 
prevent  our  gun  deck  from  being  flooded.  For  several 
hours  the  gale  was  furious,  but  as  day  dawned  the  wind 
and  sea  moderated  sufficiently  for  us  to  bear  away  under 
our  fore-sail,  and  we  ran  before  a  fast  following  sea.  This 
experience  in  the  Sumter,  from  the  unseaworthiness  of  the 
little  craft,  surpassed  in  danger  even  the  violent  typhoon  I 
experienced  many  years  before  in  the  China  Seas  in  the 
United  States  Steam  Frigate  Mississippi,  of  which  I 
was  master  at  the  time.  The  bad  weather  continued 
and  we  were  buffeted  about  with  heavy  westerly 
gales,  and  spent  our  Christmas  Day  in  mid-ocean, 
nothing  to  mark  it  to  poor  Jack  but  an  extra  "tot 
of  grog,"  which  is  known  to  the  sailor  as  "splicing 
the  main  brace."  It  was  so  disagreeable  that  we  did  not 
even  have  muster  and  inspection,  holiday  occasions  on 
board  ship.  After  passing  through  about  two  weeks  of 
this  monotony  we  had  a  change  of  wind  from  the  east- 
ward. Being  in  the  track  of  the  European  trade,  we 
sighted  and  boarded  a  number  of  vessels  bound  west,  but 
not  an  American  among  them.     On  the  30th  day  of  De- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  167 

cember  we  spent  the  entire  day  boarding  ships  of  various 
nationalities.  The  only  compensation  for  this  trouble 
was  that  we  learned  what  was  going  on  in  the  outside 
world,  from  which  we  had  been  so  cut  off  of  late,  and 
through  the  courtesy  of  the  many  ships  we  received  many 
late  and  interesting  newspapers.  The  "Trent  affair"  was 
largely  discussed  in  most  of  them.  American  war  news 
was  occupying  the  press  of  the  world.  We  then  learned 
of  England  being  called  upon  to  mourn  the  sudden  death 
of  "Albert  the  Good,"  the  lamented  Prince  Consort. 


Chapter  V 

Our  next  port  of  entry  was  the  beautiful  and  commodi- 
ous harbor  of  Cadiz,  which  we  reached  early  in  January, 
1862.  We  put  the  ship  under  steam,  and  after  getting  a 
pilot  on  board  proceeded  up  this  beautiful  bay,  passing  a 
strong  fortification  on  our  starboard  side.  We  had  our 
colors  flying,  and  were  saluted  by  many  vessels  at  anchor 
in  the  harbor.  We  were  soon  boarded  by  the  health  offi- 
cer, reporting  our  ship  clean  and  our  men  well.  Captain 
Semmes  communicated  with  the  United  States  Consul 
through  letter  conveyed  by  the  health  officer,  that  we  had 
a  number  of  prisoners  on  board,  crews  from  the  different 
ships  we  had  destroyed,  and  he  desired,  after  paroling 
them,  to  turn  them  over  to  his  care.  The  consul  at  first 
refused  to  take  them,  but  after  communicating  with  the 
American  Minister  at  Madrid  he  was  instructed  to  receive 
them.  We  were  glad  to  free  our  decks  of  the  additional 
numbers  that  crowded  and  inconvenienced  us. 

After  getting  rid  of  our  prisoners,  Captain  Semmes  ap- 
plied for  permission  to  go  into  clock,  as  we  were  in  a  leaky 
condition.  This  was  refused,  with  peremptory  orders  to 
"leave  the  port  within  twenty-four  hours."  The  captain 
positively  declined  to  do  this,  and  urged  that  he  be  allowed 
to  put  his  ship  in  seaworthy  condition  before  venturing 
to  sea  again.  Another  communication  with  Madrid,  and 
we  were  allowed  to  go  into  dock.  Next  day  we  proceeded 
up  the  bay  about  eight  miles,  where  we  found  everything 
in  readiness,  and  in  a  very  short  space  of  time  we  had  the 
little  Sumter  in  dock.  Upon  close  inspection  we  were 
pleased  to  find  we  had  not  suffered  as  much  as  we  thought 
from  running  on  the  reefs  entering  Maranham.  There 
was  no  injury  done  to  her  bottom  except  displacing  a  por- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  169 

tion  of  her  false  keel  and  rubbing  off  some  of  her  copper. 
The  troublesome  leak  proved  to  be  at  the  journal  of  the 
propeller,  and  was  soon  repaired.  While  in  dock  we  had 
a  great  deal  of  trouble  with  our  crew.  Cadiz  proving  very 
charming,  and  the  inveterate  Yankee  Consul  putting  in  his 
work,  several  of  our  crew  were  induced  to  desert,  and  we 
left  the  port  of  Cadiz  minus  half  a  dozen  men.  On  our 
return  to  our  anchorage  off  the  city  the  captain  made  ap- 
plication to  the  authorities  for  the  return  of  our  men,  as 
we  were  informed  that  they  were  sheltered  at  the  Ameri- 
can Consulate;  but  we  could  get  no  satisfaction,  and  on 
the  17th  of  January  we  set  sail  for  Gibraltar.  As  we  left 
the  port  of  Cadiz  we  saw  a  Spanish  boat  with  an  officer 
in  her  bow  waving  a  formidable  looking  yellow  document. 
It  was  reported  to  Captain  Semmes.  He  gave  orders  to 
take  no  notice  of  it,  but  increase  the  speed  of  the  ship.  We 
had  been  so  coldly  received  in  Cadiz  that  we  cheerfully 
took  leave  of  that  port,  with  no  regret  at  leaving.  During 
the  night  we  ran  far  enough  out  to  hold  on  to  the  light, 
but  after  midnight  we  got  up  steam  for  our  run  to  Gibral- 
tar. In  all  my  cruises  in  the  old  Navy  it  had  never  been 
my  good  fortune  to  enjoy  the  charming  cruise  in  the 
Mediterranean.  The  Pacific,  the  South  American  waters, 
the  Gulf,  and  the  far-distant  China  Seas, — all  but  the  very 
enjoyable  Mediterranean, — had  fallen  to  my  lot.  As  we 
passed  the  Pillars  of  Hercules  before  entering  the  strait, 
I  found  much  to  interest  and  charm  me. 

We  made  the  light  at  Gibraltar  just  at  day  dawn.  As 
soon  as  we  had  light  enough  to  use  the  telescope  we 
scanned  the  horizon  to  see  in  what  company  we  might 
shortly  find  ourselves — whether  friend,  foe,  or  neutral. 
We  soon  discovered  two  sails  that  looked  very  inviting 
for  a  chase — too  inviting,  indeed,  to  be  resisted.  We 
chased  one  for  about  two  hours.  It  proved  to  be  the  Bark 
Neapolitan,  of  Kingston,  Mass.,  with  a  cargo  of  sulphur  for 
Boston.  The  cargo  was  protected  in  a  measure  by  being 
consigned  by  Baring  Bros,  to  their  agent  in  Boston,  but 


170  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

sulphur  was  contraband  of  war,  and  possibly  the  reputed 
agent  a  partner.  So  Captain  Semmes  very  wisely  decided 
to  burn  the  ship.  We  transferred  the  prisoners  as  quickly 
as  possible,  for  there  was  another  sail  in  sight,  of  Puritani- 
cal whiteness,  the  "cut  of  whose  jib"  we  thought  we  recog- 
nized. We  took  time,  however,  to  transfer  some  of  the 
beautiful  fruits  belonging  to  Baring  Bros,  to  our  various 
messes.  Figs:  raisins,  oranges,  and  other  fruits  fresh  from 
Sicily  were  very  tempting !  The  second  sail  was  the  Bark 
Investigator,  of  Maine,  her  cargo  iron  ore.  She  was  bound 
for  Wales.  Finding  her  cargo  British,  we  released  her 
under  ransom  bond.  The  chase  of  these  vessels  had  con- 
sumed many  hours,  and  lured  us  away  miles  to  the  east- 
ward of  Gibraltar.  Between  two  and  three  o'clock  we 
turned  our  head  in  the  direction  of  the  rock,  and  about 
seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  under  the  full  blaze  of  Europa 
Point  light,  we  steamed  in  and  anchored  under  the  shadow 
of  the  renowned  historic  rock.  It  had  been  a  day  of 
fatigue  to  all  on  board,  and  we  were  only  kept  up  by  the 
excitement  of  chase  and  our  surroundings  of  activity,  so 
the  night  of  rest  was  gladly  welcomed.  If  I  may  be  for- 
given the  liberty,  instead  of  using  my  own  descriptive 
powers  (which  are  poor,  at  best),  I  will  here  give  a  pen 
picture  of  this  point  in  the  words  of  an  eminent  divine, 
Rev.  Robert  Barrett,  of  Atlanta,  who  is  also  a  great  trav- 
eler, and  I  imagine  a  great  lover  of  Nature : 

We  entered  the  Bay  of  Gibraltar  at  ■  daybreak.  Jupiter  seemed  to 
rest  on  the  crown  of  the  great  rock  that  loomed  above  the  sea.  Below, 
like  sleeping  sea  birds,  lay  the  dark  hulls  of  many  a  steamer,  ship  and 
gunboat.  I  was  amazed  at  the  marvelous  beauty  of  Gibraltar.  Grim 
as  it  appeared  from  the  water,  we  found  it  a  flower  garden  where  we 
began  to  drive  along  the  tortuous  road  that  winds  up  to  the  top.  Every 
crevice  in  the  rock  seemed  to  blossom.  Such  fuchsias,  such  geraniums 
I  never  saw  before !  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  is  a  town  of  20,000,  Span- 
iards and  Moors.  The  shops  and  streets  present  a  most  novel  and  in- 
teresting appearance.  The  garrison  is  composed  of  6000  red  coats. 
This  great  rock,  1400  feet  high,  is  hollowed  out.  A  series  of  galleries 
or  tunnels  are  cut  on  the  inside,  about  ten  feet  back  from  the  outer  wall 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  171 

of  the  precipice.  These  galleries  are  pierced  every  forty  feet,  for  cannon 
and  for  light.  Still  further  in  the  rock  are  great  chambers  full  of  am- 
munition and  provisions  sufficient  for  five  years.  Thus  while  this  vast 
mountain  of  stone  is  covered  with  flowers,  it  fairly  bristles  with  unseen 
guns.  Between  Gibraltar  and  Spain  is  a  strip  of  neutral  ground,  flat, 
unused,  barren,  useless,  like  all  neutrality !  The  view  of  the  bay  and  of 
the  sea  from  the  top  of  Gibraltar  is  quite  as  fine  as  the  Bay  of  Naples. 
The  snow-crowned  summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas  are  distinctly  seen. 
The  solemn,  far-off  mountains  of  Africa  suggest  mystery.  The  Medi- 
terranean seems  to  say,  "I  mean  History."  The  Atlantic,  vast  and 
majestic,  stretches  toward  the  West. 

If  Cadiz  tried  to  freeze  us  out  and  gave  no  hospitable 
hand  to  "the  stranger  at  her  gates,"  we  were  fully  com- 
pensated for  the  mortification  by  the  warmth  of  our  recep- 
tion at  Gibraltar.  Our  "English  cousins"  warmly  wel- 
comed us.  Even  while  obliged  to  observe  a  strict  neu- 
trality, this  did  not  interfere  with  the  social  enjoyment  of 
our  sojourn  among  them.  We  were  not  unexpected  vis- 
itors at  the  port  of  Gibraltar,  for  the  news  of  our  trouble  at 
Cadiz  had  preceded  us,  and  the  chase  we  made  for  the 
Neapolitan  had  drawn  crowds  to  the  signal  station  to  wit- 
ness the  capture,  and  subsequently  our  little  bonfire  had 
created  a  great  excitement.  Soon  after  anchoring  we 
were  made  the  usual  tender  of  service  from  the  admiral 
of  the  port,  and  had  sent  a  boat  to  report  ourselves  to  the 
health  officer.  By  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning  officers 
of  the  Army  and  Navy,  and  citizens,  began  to  call  on  us. 
At  an  early  hour  Captain  Semmes  went  on  shore  to  pay 
his  respects  to  the  military  commander  of  the  rock,  Sir 
Wm.  J.  Codrington,  K.C.B.  He  gave  permission  to  land 
our  prisoners,  who  were  paroled  and  sent  on  shore  imme- 
diately. We  were  treated  with  all  the  courtesy  due  to  our 
rank,  and  but  one  stipulation  made,  "that  we  should  not 
pursue  the  enemy  from  British  neutral  territory."  This, 
of  course,  we  could  not  do  in  the  face  of  international  law, 
in  which  our  leader  was  so  well  learned.     Communicating 


172  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

with  our  minister  in  England,  Mr.  Mason  (he  had  just  re- 
lieved Mr.  Yancey,  who  from  ill  health  gave  up  his 
position),  we  were  allowed  to  draw  upon  Messrs.  Fraser, 
Trenholm  &  Co.  for  repairs  to  our  little  craft,  sadly  in 
need  of  them.  We  then  entered  heartily  into  the  enjoy- 
ments of  the  port.  The  clubhouses  were  opened  to  us, 
and  we  made  many  pleasant  acquaintances.  It  gives  me 
great  pleasure  here  to  record  that  in  those  days  of  recrea- 
tion I  formed  a  very  pleasant  friendship,  which  has  not 
ceased  (but  grown  warmer  with  the  passing  years),  for  a 
young  Canadian,  an  Army  officer,  Brown  Wallis,  a  lieu- 
tenant in  the  "Prince  of  Wales  iooth  Regiment  of  Royal 
Canadians,"  then  stationed  at  the  Rock.  Here  we  also 
met  Major  Fremantle,  who  afterwards,  later  in  the  war, 
visited  our  Southern  States,  and  was  a  warm  Confederate 
sympathizer,  writing  and  publishing  very  interesting  ac- 
counts of  the  same.  In  writing  of  my  friend,  Captain 
Brown  Wallis,  a  late  English  paper  makes  this  statement : 
"Mr.  Brown  Wallis  was  one  of  the  original  Canadian 
officers  of  our  regiment.  His  commission  in  the  iooth 
bore  date  July,  1858.  During  the  time  he  served  in  the  old 
iooth  he  was  one  of  the  smartest  officers  and  a  thorough 
soldier.  He  took  the  greatest  possible  interest  and  trouble 
in  promoting  and  furthering  everything  for  the  welfare  of 
the  regiment.  He  left  the  iooth  to  take  a  very  responsi- 
ble and  highly  important  appointment  under  the  Govern- 
ment of  Canada.  His  retirement  from  the  old  corps  was 
universally  regretted  by  his  brother  officers  and  the  rank 
and  file,  amongst  whom  he  was  so  deservedly  popular. 
That  he  should  some  years  before  have  given  up  the  pro- 
fession of  the  law,  for  which  he  was  studying,  the  comforts 
and  luxuries  of  a  home  of  affluence,  to  embrace  the  mili- 
tary profession,  won  for  him  the  admiration  of  his  friends, 
and  are  the  best  evidence  that  the  spirit  of  loyalty  and 
patriotism  is  as  strong  in  the  hearts  of  Young  Canada  as 
in  any  portion  of  Her  Majesty's  dominions."     He  is  still 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  173 

a  faithful  and  loyal  subject  of  Her  Majesty,  being  in  the 
Department  of  Interior,  at  Ottawa,  Canada,  and  still  faith- 
ful and  loyal  to  the  friendships  of  his  youth, — a  noble,  ear- 
nest English  gentleman.  Some  of  my  happiest  hours  of 
leisure  were  spent  with  him  at  Gibraltar  and  I  review  that 
time  with  unfeigned  pleasure  in  memory. 


Chapter  VI 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival  at  Gibraltar  we  were  invited 
to  partake  of  one  of  their  greatest  sports  and  pleasures — 
a  grand  fox  chase.  An  English  nobleman,  who  owned 
them,  allowed  the  iooth  Regiment  to  keep  his  pack  of 
fifty  hounds  at  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar,  and  it  was  worth 
seeing  these  splendid  creatures  in  twenty-five  couples, 
under  full  control  of  their  keepers, — hunters,  keepers  and 
all  in  gay  attire  and  eager  for  the  chase.  I  had  often 
heard  and  read  of  the  vigor  of  English  women,  but  saw 
proof  of  it  at  that  time.  Sir  Wm.  Codrington,  with  Lady 
Codrington  and  their  two  young  daughters,  joined  our 
party.  We  crossed  the  little  narrow  strip  of  land  that 
joins  the  Rock  to  Spain,  and  a  few  miles'  ride  brought  us 
into  the  cork  woods.  The  early  part  of  the  day  we  en- 
joyed the  chase  through  this  forest,  the  echoes  of  which 
resounded  with  the  baying  of  the  hounds.  The  ladies 
entered  keenly  into  the  sport,  rode  their  horses  beautifully, 
with  no  apparent  fatigue,  though  it  must  have  been  a  ride 
of  between  thirty  and  forty  miles,  and  returned  quite  fresh 
to  a  seven  o'clock  dinner!  Imagine  an  American  lady 
doing  the  same!  The  cry  of  the  fifty  hounds  was  music, 
and  although  on  so  grand  a  scale  it  brought  to  memory 
other  fox  hunts  over  the  red  clay  hills  of  Georgia.  The 
dogs  ran  so  admirably  that,  to  use  the  huntsman's  par- 
lance, you  "could  cover  them  with  a  blanket."  We  got 
up  two  or  three  of  the  wily,  treacherous,  little  beasts,  but 
carried  none  in  as  trophies.  Our  ride  was  over  a  very 
broken  country.  We  were  fond  of  riding  through  the 
cork  woods,  but  were  warned  to  avoid  them.  The  rough 
men  who  barked  the  trees  for  the  cork  of  commerce  were 
a  set  of  banditti  willing  to  venture  anything  for  money. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  175 

They  would  not  have  scrupled  to  capture  us  had  any  re- 
ward been  offered  for  our  heads  by  our  enemies.  The 
cork  tree  somewhat  resembles  the  oak,  though  it  does  not 
grow  so  large  or  have  as  luxuriant  foliage. 

After  a  few  days  in  Gibraltar,  and  much  effort  made  to 
procure  it,  we  began  to  realize  the  impossibility  of  secur- 
ing coal.  The  captain  decided  to  send  the  paymaster, 
Mr.  Henry  Myers,  to  Cadiz  for  it.  In  accomplishing  this 
duty  he  was  accompanied  by  a  friend,  a  former  United 
States  Consul  at  Cadiz,  Mr.  Tunstall.  They  took  passage 
on  a  little  French  steamer  that  plied  between  the  Rock  of 
Gibraltar  and  Cadiz,  stopping  at  the  Moorish  town  of 
Tangier  on  the  route.  Arriving  at  Tangier,  they  found  the 
steamer  would  be  delayed  an  hour  or  two,  and  so  decided 
to  walk  up  to  the  hotel.  Upon  their  return  to  the  steamer 
the  ever-watchful  Yankee  Consul  informed  the  authorities 
that  there  was  a  pirate  on  shore  for  whom  a  large  ransom 
would  be  paid,  thus  arousing  their  cupidity.  The  two  un- 
fortunate gentlemen  were  set  upon  by  a  Moorish  mob  of 
soldiers,  overpowered  and  seized,  placed  in  double  irons 
and  imprisoned  at  the  American  Consulate. 

As  soon  as  the  news  of  this  high-handed  and  unjust  act 
reached  the  Rock,  Captain  Semmes  made  every  effort  for 
their  release.  He  wrote  to  the  English  Minister,  asking 
his  immediate  influence  in  the  name  of  civilization  and 
humanity!  Mr.  Hay  refused  to  interfere,  simply  declar- 
ing the  neutrality  of  his  government,  and  Messrs.  Myers 
and  Tunstall  were  hurried  off  on  board  the  enemy's  Sloop 
of  War  Ino.  From  this  vessel  they  were  transferred  to 
the  Federal  Merchant  Ship  Harvest  Home,  on  board  of 
which  they  were  treated  with  the  greatest  insult  and  indig- 
nity. Their  heads  were  shaved  like  felons,  they  were 
heavily  ironed,  and  put  below  hatches  and  kept  in  this 
condition  till  they  reached  Boston.  There  they  were  im- 
prisoned for  awhile,  but  treated  as  prisoners  of  war,  and 
finally  released  on  parole.  Paymaster  Myers  was  a  most 
efficient  officer  and  a  high-toned  gentleman.  The  treat- 
ment he  received  aroused  in  the  hearts  of  his  brother  offf- 


176  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

cers  and  shipmates  a  feeling  of  righteous  indignation.  I 
have  at  times  the  pleasure  of  extending  to  him  the  hand 
of  friendship  in  these  more  peaceful  days. 

The  career  of  the  doughty  little  Sumter  was  drawing  to 
a  close;  dangers  seemed  to  beset  her  at  every  turn.  We 
were  unable  to  purchase  coal,  and  could  not  make  the 
necessary  repairs.  It  would  have  been  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  have  had  new  boilers  put  in  to  make  another  cruise 
or  prolong  this  one,  and  we  could  not  have  done  this  short 
of  the  shipyards  of  England.  In  the  face  of  all  these 
difficulties, — to  say  nothing  of  being  watched  by  from 
three  to  six  Federal  cruisers,  each  one  greatly  her  supe- 
rior,— Captain  Semmes  made  up  his  mind,  after  much  de- 
liberation, and  with  much  regret,  to  lay  up  the  Sumter  in 
ordinary,  in  charge  of  Midshipman  Armstrong,  Master's 
Mate  Hester,  and  ten  seamen.  To  pay  off  his  officers  and 
crew,  with  instructions  to  make  the  best  of  their  way  to 
the  South  and  report  to  the  Government  at  Richmond, 
was  his  next  step,  and  the  hour  of  parting  came,  upon 
which  we  need  not  dwell. 

I  have  always  felt  that  the  little  Sumter  has  never  had 
full  justice  done  her,  or  been  accorded  her  high  meed  of 
praise!  She  was  the  first  vessel  to  unfurl  the  flag  of  the 
young  Confederacy  to  the  nations  of  the  world  on  the 
high  seas.  Frail  and  unseaworthy  at  best,  her  career  was 
a  marvel.  In  the  hands  of  a  commander  as  daring  as  any 
Viking  in  seamanship,  she  swept  the  waters  of  the  Carib- 
bean Sea  as  she  moved  silently  on  her  career  of  triumph. 
No  ship  of  her  size,  her  frailness,  and  her  armament  ever 
played  such  havoc  on  a  powerful  foe !  Within  the  six 
short  months  of  her  brief  career  she  had  captured,  ran- 
somed, or  destroyed  seventeen  of  the  enemy's  ships,  and 
so  alarmed  the  commercial  world  as  almost  to  drive  their 
flag  from  the  thoroughfares  of  the  ocean.  When  Captain 
Semmes  made  known  his  intention  of  giving  up  the  little 
craft  there  was  a  feeling  of  sadness  among  officers  and 
crew.  Of  course  she  had  done  what  she  could,  and  there 
was  pride  and  satisfaction  in  feeling  she  had  accomplished 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  177 

a  great  deal,  but  it  seemed  to  sailor  hearts  like  desertion 
and  abandonment  to  leave  her  to  an  unknown  fate !  There 
was  no  use,  however,  in  the  face  of  the  frowning  circum- 
stances, to  attempt  to  run  the  blockade.  After  consulting 
by  telegram  our  minister,  Mr.  Mason,  and  coming  to  a 
decision,  the  captain  gave  orders  to  disband  and  seek  other 
work  for  their  cause  and  country.  In  less  than  a  couple 
of  months  the  little  Sumter  was  sold,  and  sailed  under  the 
British  flag'  as  a  merchant  ship.  We  afterwards  heard  she 
had  gone  into  the  port  of  Charleston,  South  Carolina,  as 
a  blockade  runner,  the  new  owner  having  given  her  the 
name  Gibraltar.  After  some  little  time  and  service  she  found 
a  watery  grave  in  the  North  Sea,  where  two  years  later 
her  far-famed  successor,  the  Alabama,  was  doomed  to  sink 
after  an  unequal  combat,  to  be  seen  no  more  "till  the  sea 
gives  up  her  dead  !" 

About  the  middle  of  April  we  took  passage  on  the 
English  mail  steamer  for  Southampton.  She  was  on  her 
regular  trip  from  India,  and  had  as  passengers  many  Eng- 
lishmen who  had  worn  out  health  and  strength  in  the 
East  in  search  of  fortune,  and  were  now  returning  to  Old 
England  with  well-filled  pockets  to  recruit  broken  health 
and  spend  their  declining  years  in  affluence  and  comfort. 
The  steamer  was  fitted  up  with  every  luxury  and  comfort 
for  the  East  India  traveler  and  we  made  ourselves  very 
comfortable.  As  we  passed  out  of  the  harbor  of  Gibraltar 
we  cast  a  lingering  look  at  the  little  vessel  that  had  been 
our  "home  on  the  rolling  deep"  during  those  last  exciting 
months.  Many  of  our  hospitable  friends  and  entertainers 
of  the  regiment  at  the  Rock  were  there  to  wish  us  a  very 
pleasant  voyage  home.  We  were  fully  prepared  to  enjoy 
the  voyage  as  passengers,  and  not  actors,  on  the  magnifi- 
cent mail  steamer,  and  were  delighted  with  the  beautiful 
scenery  on  the  coasts  of  Spain,  Portugal  and  France. 
After  six  days'  pleasant  steaming  at  this  charming  season 
of  the  year,  we  entered  the  harbor  of  Southampton,  and 
after  a  few  hours'  rest  took  rail  for  London. 

12 


Chapter  VII 

Captain  Semmes  and  I  took  rooms  together  in  Euston 
Square,  a  very  convenient  and  central  part  of  the  great 
city.  A  parlor  and  two  bed-rooms  furnished  our  suite,  and 
we  gave  ourselves  up  to  rest  and  enjoyment  for  a  few  days. 
While  in  London  we  met  many  brother  officers,  some 
resident  in  England  at  the  time,  and  others,  like  ourselves, 
birds  of  passage.  We  also  learned  all  the  Confederate 
naval  news  and  plans  on  this  side  of  the  water.  The  new 
Gunboat  Oreto  (afterwards  named  the  Florida)  had  just 
sailed,  without  armament,  under  the  British  flag,  for  Nas- 
sau, New  Providence,  where  her  brave  and  gallant  com- 
mander, dashing  John  N.  Maffitt,  was  waiting  for  her. 
Another  new  ship,  the  290,  was  nearing  completion,  but 
no  officers  yet  assigned  to  her  command.  We  were  all 
delighted  with  our  minister  abroad,  Mr.  Mason,  who  had 
succeeded  Mr.  Yancey  (who  on  account  of  failing  health 
had  returned  home).  Mr.  Mason  was  a  typical  Southern 
gentleman,  a  fine  representative  of  the  old  Virginia 
school  of  that  day.  When  we  called  on  him  to  discuss 
affairs  we  were  invited  to  clay  pipes  and  old  Virginia 
tobacco,  with  true  Southern  hospitality.  While  in  Lon- 
don we  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  Mr.  Spurgeon's 
tabernacle,  by  invitation  of  one  of  his  church  dignitaries. 
He  offered  to  provide  seats  for  us.  According  to  appoint- 
ment we  met  him  the  following  day  (which  was  the  Sab- 
bath) at  the  door  of  the  tabernacle.  He  escorted  us  into 
the  building  by  a  private  way,  and  up  a  flight  of  stairs, 
which  opened  upon  Mr.  Spurgeon's  platform,  in  the  rear 
of  which  were  a  number  of  pews.  In  one  of  these  pews 
sat  Mrs.  Spurgeon  and  family.  Opposite  them  we,  with 
the  church  officials,  took  our  seats.  The  enormous  build- 
ing was  filled  to  overflowing,  but  the  greatest  order  and 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  179 

decorum  prevailed.  The  wonderful  speaker  was  listened 
to  with  breathless  silence.  I  was  more  impressed  with 
his  earnestness  than  his  eloquence.  I  had  so  lately  heard 
the  celebrated  Dr.  Palmer,  of  New  Orleans,  that  I  think 
I  was  mentally  comparing  the  two  speakers  and  giving 
the  palm  of  eloquence  to  the  latter.  At  the  conclusion 
of  the  services  the  immense  throng  quietly  dispersed.  We 
had  heard  that  Mr.  Spurgeon  preached  to  the  masses — 
the  working  classes  of  London — and  if  this  was  true  it 
was  a  pleasure  to  witness  their  reverence  in  the  tabernacle 
and  upon  retiring  from  it. 

At  our  boarding  place  in  Euston  Square  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  a  visit  from  a  genial  English  clergyman,  Rev. 
Francis  W.  Tremlett,  in  charge  of  the  church  at  Belsize 
Park.  He  was  an  ardent  sympathizer  with  the  South 
and  her  cause.  Pie  invited  us  to  his  house,  a  beautiful 
English  home  presided  over  by  his  mother  and  sister. 
We  accepted  this  kind  invitation  and  met  there  many 
Confederate  and  English  Navy  officers.  The  friendship 
for  Mr.  Tremlett  and  his  family  here  formed  has  been 
earnest  and  life-long. 

There  was  no  apparent  work  for  us  abroad,  and  we  re- 
solved to  turn  our  faces  homeward  to  the  Confederacy. 
For  this  purpose,  late  in  May,  we  took  passage  in  the 
Steamer  Melita  for  Nassau,  intending  to  run  the  blockade 
from  that  point  into  Norfolk,  Virginia.  The  Melita  was 
loaded  with  arms  and  ammunition  and  belonged  to  the 
English  firm  of  Isaac  Bros;  Accompanying  us  on  our 
passage  to  Nassau  was  my  friend  and  relative,  Hon.  John 
E.  Ward,  returning  from  China,  where  he  had  been  as 
United  States  Minister.  He  had  left  his  family  in  Europe 
and  was  making  his  way  into  the  Confederacy.  He  was 
full  of  his  late  mission,  and  very  entertaining.  I  recollect 
an  amusing  anecdote  of  him  in  this  connection.  At  his 
first  reception  in  China,  having  no  official  dress  (indeed, 
none  was  required)  yet  wanting  to  impress  the  high  Celes- 
tial officials  with  his  personality,  he  donned  his  Chatham 


180  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Artillery  uniform,  of  which  honored  company  he  had  been 
captain  in  Savannah.  Through  the  interpreter  the 
Chinese  wished  to  know  the  meaning  of  the  letters  "C.  A." 
on  his  belt.  With  ready  wit  he  told  them  "China  and 
America.''  This  satisfied  their  curiosity  and  their  sense 
of  honor  and  dignity.  They  were  very  much  flattered, 
and  it  had  the  effect  the  minister  desired. 

Arriving  at  Nassau,  we  found  it  a  live  seaport  town, 
crowded  with  blockade  runners  and  shipping.  The  hotels 
were  swarming  with  Confederates  and  Federals,  the  latter 
driving  a  lively  trade  in  furnishing  arms  and  equipments 
to  the  Confederates.  Here  we  met  the  gallant  Maffitt  at 
work  before  the  Colonial  Court  getting  the  Oreto  cleared 
of  the  charge  of  violating  English  neutrality,  which  he  was 
at  last,  after  much  effort,  successful  in  doing.  While  here 
Captain  Semmes  gave  up  one  of  his  officers,  Lieutenant 
Stribbling,  to  become  the  executive  officer  of  Maffitt's 
ship.  Among  the  guests  at  the  Victoria  Hotel  were 
many  ladies  from  the  North  and  South.  Among  them 
shone  conspicuously  Maffitt's  young  daughter,  hand- 
some and  just  grown  up.  The  inspiring  war  song, 
"Maryland,  My  Maryland,"  we  heard  for  the  first  time 
from  her  young  lips,  and  sung  with  great  expression  and 
pathos  it  made  one  of  the  events  of  the  evening  at  the 
hotel,  and  always  met  a  round  of  applause. 

Maffitt  after  great  delay  got  his  ship  out  of  this  harbor 
and  proceeded  to  his  appointed  rendezvous  to  receive  his 
armament.  He  had  many  misfortunes.  Yellow  fever  at- 
tacked his  crew  and  he  lost  many  men;  poor  Stribbling 
died;  his  young  stepson,  Laurence  Reed,  died;  he  had  the 
fever  himself  and  his  life  was  given  up  by  all  on  board. 
As  he  lay  apparently  unconscious  (as  his  physicians 
thought)  he  opened  his  eyes,  and,  looking  arcfund  him, 
said  feebly:  "Don't  give  me  up;  do  all  you  can  for  me; 
I  haven't  got  time  to  die  now,  there's  too  much  for  me  to 
do."  He  recovered  to  do  grand  service  in  the  Florida. 
Maffitt  seemed  to  hold  a  charmed  life — he  dashed  through 


RECOLLECTIONS  OE  A  NAVAL  LIFE  181 

the  nine  ships  of  the  enemy's  blockading  squadron,  and 
flew  into  Mobile  like  a  meteor,  and  when  recovered  and 
recruited  as  to  health  and  acquisition  of  men,  dashed  out 
again,  meteor-like,  fearless  and  brave.  His  notable  career 
on  the  high  seas  belongs  to  the  history  of  the  war  between 
the  States.     Maffitt  lived  in  his  life  the  truth  of  the  lines : 

"The  bravest  are  the  tenderest, 
The  loving  are  the  daring." 

Though  I  may  have  cause  to  refer  to  his  career  again 
in  these  annals,  I  cannot  help  now  saying,  with  a  benedic- 
tion :  "Peace  to  the  ashes,  and  rest  to  the  soul  of  one  so 
brave  and  true !"  Maffitt  lived  many  years  after  the  war, 
and  has  left  a  very  interesting  family  to  inherit  his  virtues 
and  his  great  name. 

While  at  Nassau  Captain  Semmes  received  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Mallory,  Secretary  of  the  Confederate  Navy,  brought 
by  an  officer  just  from  the  South,  assigning  him  to  the 
command  of  the  new  steamer  just  finished  in  England,  the 
290.  He  had  instructions  to  gather  up  the  officers  of  the 
Sumter,  but  this  it  was  not  possible  to  do,  as  they  were 
now  too  widely  scattered  and  some  of  them  assigned  to 
other  duties.  We  were  to  make  our  way  back  to  Eng- 
land, resigning  on  the  altar  of  patriotism,  when  almost 
within  sight  of  home,  all  hope  of  reunion  and  domestic 
happiness,  for  another  and  longer  cruise  of  danger  and 
peril,  and,  as  it  proved,  with  loss  of  everything  save  life 
and  honor.     But  I  will  not  anticipate. 


Chapter  VIII 

I  have  been  perusing  some  of  a  batch  of  old  letters  writ- 
ten from  Nassau  and  England  at  that  most  stirring  and 
enthusiastic  period  of  my  life.  It  makes  an  old  man's 
pulses  quicken  and  the  fires  of  pride  and  patriotism  re- 
kindle on  the  altar  of  a  dear  lost  cause.  Under  date  of 
July  2d,  1862,  Nassau,  N.  P.,  I  write: 

As  two  steamers  leave  to-day  I  will  write  by  each,  hoping  some 
among  them  all  may  reach  home  safely.  Cousin  John  Ward  left  here  a 
week  ago  in  the  Memphis.  He  promised  to  see  you  and  tell  you  of 
our  movements.  We  were  going  to  link  our  fates  together,  when,  as  I 
have  written  in  previous  letters,  the  severe  trial  came  to  me  in  the 
orders  to  return  to  Europe  and  give  up  all  hope  of  seeing  home  and 
loved  ones !  God  grant  it  may  be  for  the  best !  At  least  the  sacrifice 
is  made  for  our  beloved  country,  and  it  must  be  done  with  a  good  will 
and  a  cheerful  spirit.  The  fortitude  with  which  you  and  my  dear 
mother  bear  this  separation  sustains  me  through  it  all,  and  for  every 
duty.  We  have  just  received  news  of  a  great  victory  for  us  near  New 
Orleans,  with  the  capture  of  8000  prisoners.  We  can  but  hope  the  city 
has  been  recaptured,  for  the  feeling  of  the  people  must  have  been  in- 
tense against  the  brutal  Butler,  and  cries  aloud  for  vengeance !  We 
anxiously  await  news  from  Richmond,  as  the  near  approach  of  the  two 
armies  must  ere  this  have  resulted  in  a  battle.  I  leave  for  Europe  in 
a  few  days  now,  in  company  with  Captain  Semmes  and  some  other 
officers,  and  as  soon  as  practicable  after  our  arrival  across  the  water 
we  will  take  charge  of  our  new  vessel  (said  to  be  a  superior  one),  and 
we  will  be  better  able  to  do  good  service  for  our  country,  than  in  the 
little  Sumter. 

We  have  just  heard  of  the  capture  of  the  Cecile,  by  which  I  sent 
letters,  a  package,  and  late  English  papers.  It  is  truly  disheartening  to 
see  so  many  of  our  arms,  and  ammunition  falling  into  the  enemy's 
hands.  We  risk  a  great  deal  to  obtain  small  advantages.  I  have  just 
had  returned  from  England  yours  of  the  19th  of  March,  the  first  and 
only  letter  since  running  the  blockade,  now  wanting  ten  days  of  being 
a  year!     Could  we  have  run  the  blockade,  what  compensation  in  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  183 

joyous  home-coming!  But  it  is  ordered  otherwise,  and  a  cheerful 
acquiescence  must  be  given  to  our  duty.  Our  beloved  Southland  requires 
my  services  abroad,  and  they  must  be  given.  I  would  not  be  worthy  of 
your  love  if  I  could  ever  flinch  from  duty.  As  I  have  written  (but 
you  may  never  have  received  the  letters)  two  months  ago,  we  laid  up 
our  good  little  ship,  the  Sumter,  at  Gibraltar  as  unfit  for  further  service. 
We  left  Midshipman  Armstrong  in  charge  of  her,  with  ten  or  a  dozen 
men.  All  other  officers  detached  with  orders  to  make  the  best  of  their 
way  home  to  report  for  duty.  The  captain  and  I  came  on  together  and 
reached  this  place  a  week  ago.  To  our  surprise  he  has  received  orders 
transferring  him  with  his  officers  to  a  superior  new  ship,  in  which  I 
trust  we  will  be  able  to  do  good  service  for  our  country  and  her  sacred 
cause.  Do  tell  Mrs.  Armstrong  that  her  son  is  in  fine  health,  left  at 
Gibraltar  in  charge  of  the  Sumter  on  account  of  his  efficiency.  He  will 
be  promoted,  and  join  us  in  our  new  ship  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant. 
Congratulate  her  for  me.  I  enclose  her  letters  to  him  from  England  to 
Gibraltar. 

Under  date  of  Liverpool,  August  12th,  1862,  I  write: 

We  sailed  from  Nassau  on  the  13th  of  July  and  arrived  here  on 
the  5th  of  August.  Met  here  the  news  of  several  blockade  runners 
getting  safely  into  Charleston  and  Wilmington.  I  hope  you  have  my 
many  letters,  the  boxes  and  packages.  I  will  try  to  write  from  the 
unfrequented  ports  into  which  we  go,  but  I  can  not  even  hope  to  hear 
from  home  again  till  the  close  of  this  dreadful  war.  We  go  on  board 
ship  in  two  hours,  and  sail  early  to-morrow  morning  to  meet  our  new 
ship  at  the  appointed  rendezvous.  She  is  said  to  be  a  beautiful  gunboat, 
and  very  fast.  I  hope  before  very  long  you  will  get  good  accounts  of 
us  and  our  work.  She  will  be  christened  the  Alabama.  Young  Arm- 
strong is  to  be  second  lieutenant,  tell  his  mother.  I  am  glad  of  his 
promotion,  as  he  is  very  efficient.  God  grant  this  war  may  close  this 
winter,  but  should  it  continue  longer  we  must  be  brave  and  bear  up 
cheerfully  till  we  have  driven  the  invader  from  our  soil  and  established 
our  beloved  Southland  free  and  independent  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth.     God  grant  it ! 

We  were  three  weeks  on  our  passage  from  Nassau 
to  Liverpool,  where  we  were  detained  some  days  in  mak- 
ing arrangements  for  our  cruise.  Our  ship  had  preceded 
us  on  the  voyage,  and  we  hoped  was  now  safely  anchored 
off  the  Island  of  Terceira,  our  rendezvous,  where  a  sailing 


184  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

ship  with  our  battery  and  stores  had  gone  before  her,  and 
both  should  be  awaiting  us  if  no  accident  had  befallen 
them.  Captain  James  D.  Bulloch,  who  superintended  the 
building  of  the  290,  as  she  neared  completion  was  much 
annoyed  with  Federal  spies.  He  conceived  the  idea  of 
running  her  out  as  soon  as  finished  on  a  trial  trip,  and  in 
order  to  avoid  suspicion  he  invited  a  large  party  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen  to  accompany  him,  at  the  same  time  char- 
tering a  little  steam  tug  to  follow  the  new  ship  out.  The 
gay  party  made  their  appearance  at  the  dock  for  the  excur- 
sion at  the  appointed  time,  and  with  all  on  board  for  the 
festive  occasion  the  290  dropped  gracefully  down  the  Mer- 
sey and  steamed  across  the  Irish  Channel,  shaping  her 
course  to  the  northward.  After  the  enjoyment  of  a  pleas- 
ant run,  with  music  and  dancing  and  an  elegant  luncheon, 
the  new  ship  being  now  opposite  the  Giant's  Causeway, 
Captain  Bulloch  made  signal  for  the  little  tug  to  come 
longside,  and  the  merry  party,  with  himself,  were  trans- 
ferred to  the  tug  to  return  to  Liverpool.  Captain  Butcher, 
a  fine  young  Englishman,  in  command  of  the  290,  received 
his  last  instructions  from  Captain  Bulloch,  and  wishing 
him  God-speed  and  a  safe  voyage,  the  ship  proceeded  on 
her  way  around  the  north  end  of  Ireland,  bound  for  the 
Western  Islands. 

On  the  13th  of  August  we  left  Liverpool  in  the  Steamer 
Bahama.  Captain  Bulloch  felt  a  laudable  pride  in  his  work, 
and  desiring  to  see  the  opening  of  the  career  of  the  290, 
•accompanied  us.  We  were  some  days,  possibly  a  week, 
on  our  trip  to  Terceira.  On  the  morning  of  the  20th  of 
August  we  sighted  the  land,  and  to  our  great  delight  we 
were  not  long  in  catching  sight  of  our  two  ships  safely 
anchored.  By  11  o'clock  we  steamed  into  the  harbor  and 
found  the  work  of  transferring  had  begun.  The  stores 
were  easy  enough  to  transfer,  but  the  heavy  guns  were 
not  so  manageable,  and  Captain  Semmes  quickly  decided 
that  we  had  best  go  around  to  Angra  Bqy,  on  the  western 
side,  to  a  more  sheltered  place.     The  anchorage  was  very 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  185 

much  exposed  to  the  prevailing  winds,  and  the  captain 
communicated  with  the  ships  to  heave  up  their  anchors 
and  follow  the  Bahama  to  leeward  of  the  island,  and  that 
afternoon  we  came  to  anchor  with  the  three  ships  in  Angra 
Bay.  In  order  to  avoid  trespassing  on  the  laws  of  neu 
trality,  the  captain  decided  to  take  the  sailing  vessel  that 
had  the  armament  on  board  outside  the  marine  league. 
Lashing  her  securely  to  the  290,  and  providing  good 
fenders  to  prevent  chafing,  we  got  under  way  and  pro- 
ceeded along  the  coast  to  the  required  distance.  We  had 
prepared,  before  leaving  port,  heavy  purchases  for  hoisting 
these  large  guns  out  of  the  hold  of  the  ship  to  the  deck  of 
the  290.  This  work  required  very  careful  management, 
for  even  the  natural  motion  of  the  sea  made  it  a  difficult 
job.  To  our  great  satisfaction  it  was  successfully  accom- 
plished in  two  days,  we  running  in  at  night  to  our  anchor- 
age, casting  off  our  lashings  for  the  two  ships  to  ride  com- 
fortably at  their  anchors. 

The  name  with  which  our  ship  left  England  was  the 
290.  This  was  a  mystery  in  itself,  apparently.  A  Yankee, 
writing  an  attempt  at  history  in  those  times,  explains  for 
the  benefit  of  the  public  that  "290  rebel  sympathizers 
among  the  moneyed  English  people  had  built  this  Confed- 
erate pirate,"  when  in  truth  she  was  the  290th  ship  built 
by  the  firm  of  Laird  Bros.,  shipbuilders,  of  Birkenhead. 
I  do  not  know  that  they  took  special  pride  or  pains  in  her 
construction,  but  they  certainly  made  "a  thing  of  beauty" 
in  a  perfect  ship  of  her!  She  was  built  rather  for  speed 
than  battle,  though  her  means  of  defense  were  very  good. 
She  was  of  900  tons  burden,  230  feet  in  length,  32  feet  in 
breadth,  and  about  20  feet  in  depth.  Her  engine  was 
300  horsepower,  and  we  carried  a  condenser  by  which  to 
get  all  the  fresh  water  required  for  the  crew.  Her  sailing 
qualities  were  perfect,  and  when  under  full  sail,  from  her 
long  lower  masts,  she  had  the  appearance  of  being  much 
longer  than  she  really  was.  Her  propeller  was  so  con- 
structed as  to  be  easily  detached  and  hoisted  in  a  well 


186  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

made  for  the  purpose.  We  could  at  our  pleasure  have 
a  steamer  or  a  sailing  vessel.  She  had  never  the  very- 
great  speed  accredited  to  her,  though  when  under  both 
sail  and  steam  she  could  be  made  to  run  fifteen  knots  an 
hour.  Her  armament  consisted  of  eight  guns — six  thirty- 
two  pounders  in  broadside,  one  Blakely  hundred-pounder 
rifled  gun  pivoted  forward,  and  one  eight-inch  solid-shot 
gun  pivoted  abaft  the  mainmast.  The  Blakely  gun  was 
not  very  satisfactory.  It  became  easily  heated,  from  defi- 
ciency in  metal,  and  the  powder  charge  would  have  to  be 
reduced  on  account  of  the  recoil.  The  crew  consisted  of 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  men  and  twenty-four  offi- 
cers— that  is,  the  captain,  five  lieutenants,  surgeon  and  as- 
sistant surgeon,  paymaster,  marine  officer,  captain's  clerk, 
and  three  midshipmen.  We  had  four  fine  engineers, 
boatswain,  gunner,  sailmaker  and  carpenter.  Chapman, 
Evans  and  Stribbling,  our  lieutenants  on  the  Sumter, 
being  out  of  reach  when  we  arrived  in  England,  we 
made  lieutenants  of  our  midshipmen.  Armstrong  was 
called  from  Gibraltar  and  appointed  second  lieutenant, 
J.  D.  Wilson,  of  Florida,  was  third,  John  Lowe,  of  Georgia, 
was  fourth,  and  Arthur  Sinclair,  Jr.,  of  Virginia,  was  fifth. 
The  acting  master  was  Irvin  D.  Bulloch,  of  Georgia,  a 
younger  brother  of  Captain  Bulloch.  Francis  L.  Gait,  of 
Virginia,  was  surgeon,  and  David  Herbert  Llewellyn,  a 
young  Englishman,  assistant  surgeon.  Becket  K.  Howell, 
our  marine  officer,  was  of  Mississippi,  and  the  younger 
brother  of  Mrs.  Jefferson  Davis.  Our  midshipmen  were 
Eugene  Maffitt,  of  North  Carolina,  a  son  of  Captain  John 
N.  Maffitt;  Edward  Anderson,  of  Georgia,  and  George  T. 
Sinclair,  of  Virginia,  all  mere  youths,  most  of  them  just 
out  of  the  Naval  Academy  at  Annapolis.  None,  with  the 
exception  of  the  captain,  the  surgeon,  and  myself,  had 
even  reached  the  prime  of  life,  and  while  they  may  not 
have  had  "old  heads  on  young  shoulders,"  they  had  all 
the  alacrity,  enthusiasm  and  bravery  necessary  for  our  hap- 
hazardous  cruise  and  steady,  ceaseless  work.      Our  engi- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  187 

neers  were  skilful  and  efficient.  As  for  the  crew,  they  were 
a  mixture.  With  some  very  fine,  adventurous  seamen,  we 
had  also  about  fifty  picked-up  sailors  from  the  streets  of 
Liverpool,  that  looked  as  if  they  would  need  some  man- 
of-war  discipline  to  make  anything  of  them,  but  we  had 
hope  in  the  old  adage,  "time  will  show"  (as  time  did  show), 
that  we  had  some  good  material  to  work  upon.  We  were 
some  days  transferring  battery  and  stores  from  the  ship 
sent  out  ahead  of  us,  and  b)'  Saturday  night  we  were  ready 
to  take  charge  of  the  290.  We  steamed  out  to  sea,  six 
miles,  in  company  with  the  Bahama. 

On  a  lovely  Sunday  morning  (strange  fate  that  Sunday 
should  have  been  her  birthday  and  also  the  day  of  her  sad 
sea  burial !) — Sunday  morning  under  a  cloudless  sky,  with 
the  soft  breeze  blowing  upon  us  across  the  Island  of  Ter- 
ceira — we  unfurled  from  the  peak  of  the  ship  the  banner 
of  the  Confederacy.  The  ceremonies  were  appropriate 
and  imposing.  By  order  of  Captain  Semmes  all  hands 
were  summoned  aft  to  the  quarter  deck.  Mounting  a 
gun  carriage  the  captain  read  aloud  his  commission  as 
captain  in  the  Confederate  Navy,  followed  by  his  orders 
from  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  Hon.  Stephen  R.  Mallory, 
to  take  command  of  the  ship  we  were  now  to  christen  the 
Alabama.  All  officers  stood  with  heads  uncovered,  as  in 
the  presence  of  Sovereign  Authority,  and  while  this  cere- 
mony was  going  on  slowly  ascending  to  the  peak  and 
royal  mainmast  head  were  the  ensign  and  pennant  of  the 
new  man-of-war.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  captain's 
words  and  a  wave  of  his  hand  a  gun  was  fired,  officers  and 
men  gave  a  deafening  cheer  and  the  band  played  "Dixie," 
the  anthem  of  the  new-born  Confederacy.  The  Bahama 
then  fired  a  gun  and  cheered  our  flag.  The  captain  in  his 
speech  had  explained  to  his  listeners  the  object  of  the 
cruise,  the  war  that  was  going  on  between  the  States,  also 
the  work  and  dangers  before  them;  but  he  offered  good 
pay  for  the  work,  and  if  successful  in  our  cause  the  extra 
compensation  of  the  Confederate  Government,  and  invited 


188  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

all  who  wished  to  go  to  the  paymaster  and  sign  for  enlist- 
ment. Of  the  crews  of  the  two  ships — the  Alabama  hav- 
ing taken  out  sixty  and  the  Bahama  thirty  men — eighty 
men  joined  us. 

The  following  day  the  Bahama  (Captain  Butcher)  was 
to  sail  for  her  return  to  England.  Captain  Bulloch  and 
he  took  leave  of  us,  wishing  us  '"bon  voyage  and  God- 
speed," and  the  Alabama  and  Bahama  parted  company. 
After  some  necessary  work  the  Alabama  sailed  away  to 
begin  her  brief  but  brilliant  career  on  the  bosom  of  the 
trackless  deep ! 


Chapter  IX 

Our  new  ship  was  now  commissioned,  christened,  and 
set  sail  on  a  cruise.  Of  course  there  was  a  great  deal  of 
work  to  be  done  before  the  Alabama  would  be  in  ship- 
shape for  her  memorable  cruise  in  search  of  Federal  mer- 
chantmen, with  strict  orders  from  the  Confederate  Secre- 
tary to  "avoid  all  engagements  with  the  enemy's  ships  of 
war,  but  to  destroy  all  their  commerce  that  we  could  in 
the  shortest  space  of  time."  We  had  been  out  almost  ten 
days  and  were  less  than  a  hundred  miles  from  the  point 
where  we  put  the  ship  in  commission,  when  we  sighted 
and  afterwards  captured  our  first  prize — a  fine  whaling 
ship,  named  the  Ocmulgee.  All  hands  were  hard  at  work 
with  a  whale  alongside,  "trying  out  the  blubber."  The 
amazement  of  the  captain  at  being  taken  prisoner  was  so 
great  as  to  be  really  amusing,  but  he  bore  it  as  philosophi- 
cally as  a  true  sailor  could,  and  that  is  saying  a  great  deal. 
We  transferred  the  officers  and  crew  and  their  personal 
effects,  and  burned  the  ship.  We  did  not  do  this,  how- 
ever, till  the  following  morning,  as  Captain  Semmes 
thought  that  a  bonfire  at  night  would  proclaim  our  where- 
abouts and  the  work  we  had  begun.  We  took  from  her 
a  good  supply  of  beef  and  pork  and  some  small  stores. 

We  now  shaped  our  course  for  the  Island  of  Flores,  the 
most  western  of  the  Azores.  We  had  spent  all  our  spare 
time  in  organizing  and  disciplining  the  crew,  messing 
them,  stationing  them  at  quarters,  exercising  them  at  the 
great  guns,  and  all  the  minor  work  on  board  a  man-of-war, 
which  is  of  the  first  importance,  so  that  we  were  prepared 
for  an  excellent  muster,  our  first  since  going  into  com- 
mission. This  muster  was  not  simply  a  calling  of  the  roll, 
but  reading  the  Articles  of  War,  inspection  of  dress,  of 


190  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

neatly  trimmed  sails,  of  polished  brass  and  iron  works,  of 
white  decks,  and  everything  pertaining  to  the  health, 
comfort  and  cleanliness  of  a  well-kept  man-of-war.  The 
Island  of  Flores  rises  like  a  lone  sentinel  in  mid-ocean,  and 
is  very  fertile  and  picturesque.  As  we  approached  it  there 
seemed  to  be  a  succession  of  hills  with  lovely  valleys  be- 
tween, and  little  cottages  peeping  out  from  the  beautiful 
foliage,  looking  very  cosy  and  homelike,  and  all  present- 
ing a  high  state  of  cultivation  and  contentment.  I  think 
the  habitual  cheerfulness  on  board  our  ship  was  due  in  a 
great  measure  to  the  youth  of  our  officers,  and  their  ardor 
and  patriotism  were  unfailing.  They  never  flagged  or 
wearied,  but  were  always  on  the  alert  to  meet  every  duty, 
and  any  pleasure  that  presented  itself  was  eagerly  enjoyed. 
No  matter  how  hard  the  day's  work,  the  crew  would 
gather  around  the  forecastle  and  enliven  the  evening  air 
with  amusing  nautical  ditties,  often  of  their  own  improvis- 
ing, but  generally  closed  the  evening's  entertainment  with 
the  national  songs  of  our  own  beloved  Southland. 

Our  second  prize  was  the  Schooner  Starlight,  of  Boston, 
from  Fayal  with  passengers.  She  gave  us  quite  a  chase, 
for  her  captain  seemed  determined  not  to  submit  to  cap- 
ture, but  our  speed  proved  too  much  for  him,  and  a  round 
shot  across  his  bows  made  him  heave  to  with  the  Yankee 
flag  flying  at  his  peak.  The  lady  passengers  were  greatly 
alarmed,  but  being  informed  that  they  were  soon  to  be 
landed  at  Flores,  their  anxieties  were  relieved.  The  fol- 
lowing day  we  ran  in  so  near  to  land  passengers  and  crew 
that  we  were  visited  by  the  governor  of  the  Island  and  most 
of  the  prominent  citizens.  This  prize  we  burned.  The 
same  afternoon,  continuing  our  course  around  the  Island, 
we  captured  a  large  whaler,  the  Ocean  Rover  by  name. 
This  ship  had  been  three  years  out,  and  was  on  her  return 
home  filled  with  several  hundred  barrels  of  sperm  oil. 
The  following  morning  we  captured  the  Alert.  She  had 
just  left  New  London  with  a  good  supply  of  winter  cloth- 
ing, and  it  being  just  what  our  crew  stood  most  in  need  of, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  191 

it  was  turned  over  to  the  paymaster.  Their  fresh  rations 
also  came  in  good  time  to  fill  our  larder.  We  paroled  the 
officers  and  crew  and  sent  them  ashore.  Before  sunset  of 
this  day  we  discovered  another  sail  standing  in  for  the 
Island,  a  large  schooner  of  Yankee  rig.  She  was  about 
three  miles  distant,  but  after  half  an  hour's  chase  was 
within  range  of  our  guns.  We  fired  a  blank  cartridge 
and  she  hove  to,  an  easy  prey.  She  was  the  Weather- 
gauge,  a  whaling  ship,  six  weeks  out  from  Yankeedom. 

I  have  often  been  asked  by  persons  interested  in  the 
cruise  of  the  Alabama  of  the  treatment  of  prisoners  by 
Captain  Semmes.  The  late  files  of  papers  taken  from 
these  captured  ships  brought  us  news  of  the  harsh  treat- 
ment of  our  prisoners  in  Federal  hands,  among  them  our 
former  paymaster  of  the  Sumter  and  his  companion,  Mr. 
Tunstall,  two  very  innocent  victims,  and  Captain  Semmes 
resolved  upon  taking  some  retaliatory  measures  for  this 
treatment.  He  accordingly  put  the  captains  of  the  Star- 
light and  several  other  captured  vessels  in  irons,  as  a  coun- 
terbalance to  the  treatment  of  our  officers.  The  captains 
were  very  indignant,  as  they  said,  "on  account  of  their 
positions,"  but  Captain  Semmes  replied  that  "Mr.  Myers 
held  a  high  position  also,  and  was  a  gentleman,  an  officer 
of  unblemished  character  and  great  worth,  and  should  not 
have  been  treated  like  a  felon."  When  opportunity 
offered,  however,  they  were  paroled  speedily  and  released, 
so  their  harsh  treatment  was  never  of  long  duration.  The 
prisoners  were  otherwise  well  treated,  and  after  six  or  eight 
captures  the  captain  concluded  to  desist  retaliatory  meas- 
ures, and  treated  them  only  as  ordinary  prisoners  of  war. 
We  had  a  respite  of  several  days  before  we  heard  again  the 
welcome  cry  of  "sail  ho  !"  Our  next  capture  was  the  Whal- 
ing Brig  Altamaha.  After  taking  all  her  boats  and  crew  we 
burned  her.  The  following  night  we  captured  the  Whal- 
ing Ship  Benjamin  Tucker,  from  New  Bedford.  By  ten 
o'clock  we  had  taken  crew  and  boats  and  burned  this  ship. 
The  next  morning  we  made  an  early  capture  in  the  Whal- 


192  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

ing  Schooner  Courser.  These  ships  gave  us  seventy  or 
more  prisoners,  and  we  were  much  inconvenienced  on 
board  ship  in  consequence,  so  we  thought  best  to  go 
back  to  Flores  for  the  purpose  of  landing  them. 

We  now  stood  to  the  northward  and  westward,  and  soon 
sighted  and  gave  chase  to  a  sail.  She  proved  to  be  the 
American  Whaling  Ship  Virginia.  After  three  long  hours 
of  chase  we  took  her.  She  bore  a  proud  name,  ''Virginia, " 
mother  of  States,  mother  of  statesmen !  How  dear  the 
name  to  our  Southern  hearts,  but  she  (the  whaler  so  mis- 
named) soon  fell  a  prey  to  the  rules  of  war.  A  few  hours 
brought  us  great  change  of  weather,  and  our  next  capture 
was  almost  in  the  face  of  a  storm,  but  we  braved  it  and 
took  the  Whaling  Ship  Elisha  Dunbar,  which  made  our 
tenth  capture  in  two  short  weeks  !  The  stormy  season  was 
now  approaching,  and  September  gales  and  the  later  and 
more  to  be  dreaded  autumnal  gales  made  us  prudently 
resolve  upon  a  change  of  base  and  new  fields  of  operation. 
The  teeming  harvests  of  the  great  Northwest  would  by 
this  time  be  ready  for  transportation  to  Europe,  and  boun- 
tiful Nature  had  no  doubt  enough  and  to  spare  from  her 
capacious  arms,  not  only  for  the  swarms  of  Irish,  German, 
Dutch,  and  other  nationalities  that  had  gone  over  to  help  in 
the  subjugation  of  the  South,  and  the  establishment  of  the 
"great  and  glorious  Union"  (for  the  money  found  therein, 
and  not  for  honor  or  glory),  but  also  for  the  trade  abroad, 
so  we  entered  upon  the  ocean  highway  of  that  trade. 

It  was  now  October,  the  most  beautiful  month  of  the 
year.  When  in  the  lovely  Southland  the  gorgeous  Indian 
summer  sets  in,  and  the  skies  are  blue  beyond  description, 
and  life  seems  so  beautiful  to  dream,  to  love,  to  live !  To 
the  seaman  it  is  often  a  month  of  perilous  adventure,  and 
especially  is  it  one  of  danger  in  the  waters  to  which  we 
were  wending  our  way,  and  before  many  days  had  elapsed 
we  were  to  experience  some  very  heavy  weather  off  the 
Newfoundland  Banks.  Early  in  October  we  captured 
the  Brilliant  and  the  Emily  Farnuni,  both  from  New  York, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  193 

bound  for  England,  loaded  with  flour  and  grain.  The 
Emily  Farnum  showed  a  neutral  cargo,  so  we  made  a  cartel 
of  her,  placing  our  prisoners  on  board  and  sending  her  on 
her  way.  We  burned  the  Brilliant.  We  sighted  many 
ships,  but  they  were  all  foreigners.  We  continued 
our  way  northward  and  westward,  heading  towards  New 
York,  where  Captain  Semmes  had  planned  a  surprise  for 
the  Board  of  Trade.  He  intended  to  enter  Sandy  Hook 
anchorage  and  set  fire  to  the  shipping  in  that  vast  harbor. 
We  might  have  accomplished  our  plans — we  certainly, 
would  have  tried  to  carry  them  out — but  for  the  violent 
gale,  amounting  to  a  cyclone,  which  we  encountered,  and 
which  left  us  in  a  very  disabled  condition.  But  of  this 
hereafter. 

On  the  7th  of  October  we  captured  and  burned  the  Bark 
Ocean  Wave,  and  in  the  light  of  her  bonfire  gave  chase  to 
another  sail.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night  and  the 
chase  was  exciting  in  the  extreme,  and  consumed  some 
hours.  She  was  the  Dunkirk,  bound  for  Lisbon.  Two 
days  later  we  fell  in  with  the  Tonawanda,  of  Philadelphia, 
a  large  packet  ship,  which  carried  a  cargo  of  grain;  but  she 
had  passengers,  mostly  women  and  children.  As  we  had 
no  room  for  these  we  were  forced  to  release  this  ship  on 
ransom  bond,  but  detained  her  a  day  or  two,  lest  we  should 
need  to  put  other  prisoners  on  board.  This  was  a  prudent 
move,  as  we  soon  took  the  Manchester,  a  fine  ship,  grain 
cargo,  bound  for  Liverpool.  We  transferred  the  passen- 
gers and  crew  and  burned  the  Manchester.  The  weather 
now  began  to  show  decided  danger  of  approaching  gales, 
which  reduced  us  to  reefed  topsails.  In  this  condition  our 
next  prize  came  running  down  to  us  under  all  sail.  We 
fired  a  blank  cartridge  across  her  bow,  which  brought  her 
to  leeward  of  us.  She  was  the  Lamplighter,  of  Boston, 
with  a  cargo  of  tobacco.  Captain  and  crew  were  brought 
on  board  and  the  ship  fired.  A  wilder  scene  I  never  wit- 
nessed. The  flames  ran  up  the  tarred  rigging  like  demons 
to  the  mastheads,  with  burning  lanyards  flying  to  the  gale ! 
13 


194  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Each  hour  of  the  night  the  gale  increased  in  fury,  and  by 
morning  we  were  overtaken  by  one  of  the  most  violent 
storms  that  ever  blew  across  the  Atlantic.  The  wind  blew 
with  such  force  (though  we  had  taken  every  precaution  to 
have  our  sails  in  readiness  for  it)  from  southward  and  east- 
ward as  to  press  our  little  ship  almost  under  the  waves. 
We  battened  hatches  to  keep  the  seas  that  were  breaking 
over  us  from  going  below,  and  passed  life  lines  along  the 
decks  to  keep  the  men  from  being  washed  overboard.  Our 
main  brace  was  carried  away,  the  main  yard  snapped  in 
two  like  a  pipestem,  and  the  main  topsail  torn  into  shreds ! 
It  was  a  time  of  desperation,  but  the  brave  sailors  were 
equal  to  the  work.  They  secured  the  main  yard  and  low- 
ered the  spars  to  the  deck  without  loss  of  life.  Suddenly 
the  gale  ceased  and  we  lay  in  a  dead  calm.  Captain 
Semmes,  who  was  watching  the  storm,  turned  to  me  and 
said,  "Mr.  Kell,  in  a  few  minutes  we  will  get  the  wind  with 
renewed  violence  in  the  opposite  direction."  I  at  once 
braced  the  yards  and  secured  the  storm  staysail  to  receive 
the  storm  from  the  northwest,  and  we  were  prepared  to 
receive  the  gale  that  came  with  greater  violence,  if  possible, 
than  it  did  before  the  calm.  It  lasted  two  long  hours.  The 
little  ship  labored  heavily,  but  weathered  it.  In  a  constant 
sea  service  of  nearly  twenty  years  I  had  seen  but  one  gale 
that  could  equal  this  one.  That  gale  we  encountered  in 
the  United  States  Steam  Frigate  Mississippi,  returning 
from  Commodore  Perry's  Expedition  to  Japan.  We  were 
out  a  week  from  Jeddo  Bay.  I  was  master  of  her  at  the 
time.  Grand  old  ship  that  she  was,  she  rode  out  that  gale 
magnificently.  In  the  storm  to  which  the  Alabama  was 
exposed  the  vortex  passed  more  immediately  over  us, 
which  made  it  seem  more  violent  while  it  lasted. 


Chapter  X 

In  our  crippled  condition  we  had  to  abandon  our  bril- 
liant plans  of  surprising  New  Yorkers  by  setting  fire  to 
their  shipping,  and  find  our  way  by  sail  to  milder  latitudes. 
We  sailed  along  the  coast  of  the  United  States,  and  two  or 
three  days  after  the  gale  captured  the  Ship  Lafayette, 
bound  for  Ireland  with  grain.  We  transferred  officers 
and  crew  and  burned  her.  On  the  third  day  after  the 
burning  of  the  Lafayette  we  sighted  to  the  windward  of 
us  a  tapering,  rakish  schooner,  of  unmistakable  American 
build.  We  brought  her  to  with  solid  shot,  after  a  short 
chase,  examined  her  papers,  and  finding  her  a  legitimate 
prize,  consigned  her  to  the  flames.  She  was  the  Crenshaw, 
grain  laden,  three  days  out,  and  bound  for  Scotland.  The 
weather  was  still  rough  and  disagreeable,  but  trade  in  grain 
ships  was  too  good  to  be  abandoned  for  rough  weather, 
and  we  could  not  seek  our  mild  latitudes  very  rapidly. 
Our  next  capture  was  the  Bark  Lauretta,  disposed  of  in  the 
usual  way.  Our  next  prize  was  the  Brig  Baron  de  Castile, 
loaded  with  lumber.  We  made  a  cartel  of  her,  as  our 
prisoners  were  getting  inconveniently  troublesome  again, 
and  sent  her  to  New  York.  Being  in  the  direct  line  of 
trade,  and  so  actively  employed,  we  had  to  keep  our  fires 
banked  and  be  in  readiness  for  the  enemy's  men-of-war, 
should  any  put  in  an  appearance.  Our  rather  limited  sup- 
ply of  coal  must  soon  give  out,  and  it  became  necessary  for 
us  to  seek  our  rendezvous,  where  by  this  time  a  coal  ship 
sent  to  us  by  Captain  Bulloch  should  be  in  waiting  to  sup- 
ply us.  As  we  were  making  our  way  to  the  south- 
ward, we  fell  in  with  a  large  whaling  ship,  bound  for 
a  long  cruise  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  Levi  Starbuck.  She 
had  on  board  all  the  necessaries  to  be  desired  for  such  a 


196  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

voyage,  besides  many  articles  for  trade  with  the  islanders 
in  that  distant  ocean.  After  supplying  all  our  wants  we 
burned  the  ship.  We  got  very  late  news  and  papers  by 
her,  which  were  of  great  interest  to  us.  Our  next  capture 
was  the  T.  B.  Wales,  an  East  Indiaman,  bound  for  Boston. 
She  had  on  board  as  passengers  the  United  States  Consul 
to  Mauritius,  with  his  wife,  three  little  daughters,  and  a 
lady  friend.  At  first  the  ladies  were  alarmed  at  being 
taken  prisoners,  but  the  fright  soon  wore  off,  and  the  chil- 
dren were  very  contented  and  happy.  They  were  made 
great  pets  of  by  the  officers  and  parted  from  us  with  re- 
eret.  The  consul's  wife  was  an  Englishwoman  of  culture 
and  refinement.  We  gave  up  our  best  staterooms  to  them, 
and  they  fully  appreciated  our  efforts  to  make  them  com- 
fortable. We  secured  from  the  Wales  a  main  yard,  which 
replaced  our  loss  by  the  gale  on  the  Newfoundland  Banks. 
After  getting  it  aloft  in  place  we  were  complete  again  in 
our  sailing  capacity. 

The  T.  B.  Wales  had  been  five  months  on  her  home- 
ward journey.  Besides  getting  her  main  yard,  which  was 
almost  precisely  the  dimensions  of  our  ship's  lost  one,  we 
took  a  lot  of  spars,  of  which  we  stood  in  need.  We  were 
obliged  to  destroy  some  articles  of  East  India  workmanship 
that  were  highly  prized  by  our  lady  prisoners,  among  them 
some  elegantly  carved  ebony  chairs.  They  seemed  deeply 
to  regret  the  loss  of  these  treasures.  They  bore  us  no 
malice,  however,  for  the  fortunes  of  war.  The  consul,  Mr. 
Fairchild,  after  the  close  of  the  war,  when  Captain  Semmes 
was  arrested  and  thrown  into  a  Federal  prison,  wrote  to 
him  and  offered  to  be  a  witness  for  him  against  the  many 
false  charges  brought  against  him,  among  them  "cruelty 
to  prisoners."  In  the  admiral's  interesting  book,  written 
some  years  after  the  war,  he  takes  occasion  to  thank  the 
consul  for  "this  act  of  a  Christian  gentleman  in  those 
troublous  times  of  malice  and  unrest."  The  Wales  gave 
us  several  fine  seamen  as  recruits,  and  we  now  numbered 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  197 

about  one  hundred  and  ten  men — our  full  complement 
should  have  been  one  hundred  and  twenty. 

We  now  made  our  way  to  Port  de  France,  on  the  Island 
of  Martinique.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  in  this  port  I  was 
sent  by  Captain  Semmes  to  call  on  the  French  Admiral  to 
present  his  regards  and  report  the  arrival  in  that  harbor 
of  the  Confederate  States  Steamer  Alabama.  The  jolly 
Frenchman  received  me  very  pleasantly,  but  while  sending 
his  very  kind  regards  to  Captain  Semmes,  asked  me  to 
say  that  he  advised  the  captain  to  bring  his  ship  under  the 
guns  of  the  fort,  as  the  Scotchman  of  the  Agrippina  (our 
coal  ship)  had,  under  the  influence  of  too  much  Scotch 
whiskey,  communicated  on  shore  that  he  was  there  waiting 
for  the  Alabama,  and  that  he  would  not  be  surprised  at  any 
moment  at  the  appearance  of  American  men-of-war  in 
search  of  us.  I  thanked  him,  and  delivered  the  message. 
Captain  Semmes  summoned  the  Scotchman,  and  in  one 
hour's  time  the  Agrippina  was  under  way,  standing  out  of 
the  harbor  with  orders  to  proceed  to  Blanquilla,  on  the 
coast  of  Venezuela. 

At  Port  de  France  we  had  a  most  amusing  experience 
with  our  men,  and  at  the  same  time  the  nearest  approach 
to  a  mutiny  we  ever  had  on  board  the  ship.  Late  in  the 
afternoon,  having  landed  our  prisoners  and  received  the 
usual  amount  of  visitors,  the  "bumboats"  put  in  an  appear- 
ance, loaded  with  fruits,  pipes,  tobacco,  orange  water,  and 
sundries;  but  as  night  approached  we  had  reason  to  believe 
something  stronger  than  "orange  water"  had  also  been 
smuggled  in.  Suddenly  some  of  the  men  became  noisy 
and  boisterous,  a  most  unusual  thing  under  our  discipline. 
Upon  my  going  forward  to  quell  the  disturbance  on  the 
forecastle,  a  sailor  threw  a  belaying  pin  at  me  that,  but  for 
the  drunken  aim,  might  have  been  serious,  and  others 
threatened  violence.  Some  of  the  men  directed  to  seize 
their  disorderly  comrades  refused  to  do  it,  and  there  was  a 
general  defiance  of  authority.  Just  at  this  juncture  Cap- 
tain Semmes  appeared  on  deck.     He  said  quickly,  "Mr. 


198  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Kell,  give  the  order  to  beat  to  quarters."  The  drum  and 
fife  were  gotten  up  and  they  fell  in  mechanically,  some  of 
them  so  drunk  they  scarcely  knew  what  they  were  doing. 
"At  quarters"  all  officers  appear  armed  as  if  going  into 
battle,  and  twenty-five  or  thirty  armed  officers  were  a 
match  for  a  hundred  or  more  men  with  belaying  pins  and 
knives.  We  then  passed  among  them  as  they  stood  at 
their  guns,  the  eagle  eye  of  Captain  Semmes  pointing  out 
the  most  disorderly  and  riotous  to  be  ironed.  There  were 
about  twenty  of  the  culprits.  He  then  ordered  them  taken 
to  the  gangway,  and  called  out  for  the  quartermasters  to 
provide  themselves  with  draw-buckets,  and  beginning  with 
the  most  drunken  culprit  to  douse  them  thoroughly  with 
water.  The  buckets  full  came  down  on  them  in  quick  suc- 
cession. At  first  they  were  very  derisive,  and  cried  out, 
"Come  on  with  your  water,  we're  not  afraid  of  water,"  but 
before  long  they  began  to  gasp  for  breath  and  shiver  with 
cold.  Then  they  began  to  beg  for  mercy  and  to  promise 
loudly  "never  to  do  the  like  again."  This  ceremony  took 
about  two  hours,  all  officers  and  men  standing  at  quarters, 
when  the  captain  turned  to  me  and  said,  "Mr.  Kell,  give 
orders  to  beat  the  retreat."  There  were  none  who  were 
not  sufficiently  sober  now  to  go  below  and  change  their 
wet  garments,  take  to  their  hammocks,  and  sleep  away 
their  troubles.  From  that  time  there  was  a  saying  among 
them  that  showed  the  novel  mode  of  discipline  was  not 
forgotten  (to  say  the  least  of  it) :  "Old  Beeswax  [the 
captain]  is  hell  when  he  waters  a  poor  fellow's  grog!" 

It  was  well  that  the  captain  got  the  Agrippina  away  on 
such  short  notice,  for  the  first  call  of  the  lookout  in  the 
morning  reported  a  United  States  man-of-war  off  the  har- 
bor. She  was  the  notorious  San  Jacinto,  of  Wilkes  and 
Seward  fame.  She  saw  us  as  soon  as  we  saw  her.  We 
were  amused  at  her  preparation  for  combat.  Her  battery 
of  some  fourteen  guns,  her  men  double  the  number  of  ours, 
we  never  for  a  moment  thought  of  engaging  her.  or  of 
anything  but  eluding  her  giant  grasp.     We  remained  at 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  199 

our  anchors  all  day,  such  of  the  officers  as  desired  going  on 
shore;  the  stewards  of  the  different  messes  all  busy  laying 
in  fresh  stores  and  fruits.  The  evening  set  in  dark  and 
rainy.  The  weather  was  more  kind  to  us  than  it  was  when, 
almost  a  year  before,  the  little  Sumter  dodged  the  Iroquois 
at  St.  Pierre.  Knowing  the  harbor  well,  we  determined 
upon  taking  a  southerly  direction  out.  When  we  had 
gotten  up  steam  and  made  all  other  preparations  (having 
no  lights)  we  passed  out  without  even  a  glimpse  of  the 
San  Jacinto,  but  we  saw  by  the  papers  later  that  she  re- 
mained some  days  off  the  port,  still  watching  for  us,  unable 
to  credit  the  fact  that  we  had  really  escaped ! 

After  a  day  and  night's  run  we  came  to  anchor  with  our 
coal  ship  off  the  barren  little  Island  of  Blanquilla,  off  the 
coast  of  Venezuela.  In  this  out-of-the-way  little  coral  reef 
we  found  a  Yankee  whaling  schooner.  As  we  were  run- 
ning under  United  States  colors,  the  master  of  the  whaler 
came  out  to  us,  delighted  to  see  one  of  his  own  gunboats, 
and  offered  to  pilot  us  in.  He  was  quite  carried  away 
with  our  guns  and  battery;  said  he  "thought  we  could  give 
the  Pirate  Semmes  fits  if  we  met  him,  and  hoped  we 
would."  Imagine  his  state  of  collapse  when  he  found  we 
were  the  veritable  pirate's  ship !  The  captain  invited  him 
to  an  interview — he  was  aghast  and  overcome.  The  cap- 
tain told  him  that  "out  of  respect  for  Venezuela  he  had  no 
idea  of  violating  maritime  law  and  jurisdiction,  and  would 
not  burn  his  ship  (though  he  had  called  him  a  pirate),  but 
he  must  insist  upon  his  'making  us  a  visit,'  "  which  meant 
that  he  would  be  detained  on  the  Alabama  till  we  were 
ready  to  depart.  He  readily  agreed  to  these  terms,  and 
his  visit  was  of  some  days'  duration.  During  our  stay 
here  the  mate  of  the  little  schooner  sighted  a  whale  off  the 
harbor,  and  immediately  all  boats  were  sent  in  pursuit  of 
him.  They  came  up  with  him  and  had  a  beautiful  chase, 
which  we  all  enjoyed  very  much  as  "lookers-on."  In  a 
few  hours  they  had  killed  him,  and  taking  him  in  tow 
brought  him  to  shore,  where  they  tried  him  out. 


200  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

We  had  a  pleasant  stay  here,  and  took  advantage  of  our 
opportunity  to  break  out  the  hold,  whitewash,  and  do 
many  useful  jobs,  while  the  officers  enjoyed  many  little 
fishing  frolics,  as  well  as  happy  sports  on  shore.  Every- 
body enjoyed  the  week  or  ten  days'  stay  at  Blanquilla. 
The  crew  had  liberty  days  in  quarter  watches,  and  bathing 
on  the  beach  was  a  favorite  amusement.  There  were 
flocks  of  sea  birds,  flamingo,  pelican,  gull,  sand-snipe,  and 
plover  in  abundance,  and  those  who  went  on  shore  usually 
came  back  laden  with  game.  Sharks  were  not  scarce,  but 
being  a  cowardly  fish  they  seldom  attacked  a  party,  usu- 
ally reserving  that  sport  for  a  lone  fisherman  or  bather. 
As  a  health  motive  these  "liberty  days"  were  always  given 
the  crew,  and  they  greatly  improved  by  it.  When  we  had 
finished  coaling  and  were  otherwise  ready  for  sea,  we  let 
our  visitor  depart  in  peace,  but  Captain  Semmes  cautioned 
him  "not  to  allow  himself  to  be  caught  a  second  time,  as 
it  might  not  fare  so  well  with  him."  We  sent  the  A  grip- 
pin  a  to  the  Areas  Cayes  for  our  next  rendezvous,  having 
still  a  supply  of  coal  on  board  of  her. 

Through  the  capture  of  late  papers  we  found  that  Gen- 
eral Banks  was  fitting  out  a  great  expedition  for  the  inva- 
sion of  Texas,  to  rendezvous  at  Galveston,  which  city  had 
fallen  into  the  enemy's  hands  some  weeks  before.  Our 
vigilant  commander  laid  his  plans  accordingly.  He  knew 
the  Galveston  bar,  and  knew  that  the  transport  ships 
required  to  carry  a  vast  army  of  thirty  thousand  men  or 
more  would  not  be  able  to  proceed  far  into  a  harbor  that 
held  but  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  of  water.  He  designed  to 
surprise  this  fleet,  fire  into  them,  set  fire  to  the  shipping, 
and  make  his  escape  before  they  could  recover  from  their 
astonishment,  as  the  late  Northern  papers  had  reported 
the  "Alabama  on  the  coast  of  Brazil  on  her  way  to  the 
East  Indies."  Closely  calculating  the  time,  we  thought 
the  expedition  could  not  reach  the  city  of  Galveston  before 
the  ioth  of  January,  and  it  was  now  only  the  last  week 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  201 

in  November.  We  had  plenty  of  time  to  make  a  few  more 
captures,  and  possibly  we  might  take  a  California  steamer 
and  fill  our  strong  box  with  gold  enough  to  help  us  out ! 

On  the  morning  of  the  29th  of  November  we  were  coast- 
ing along  the  south  side  of  Porto  Rico,  enjoying  the  beau- 
tiful scenery,  smooth  sea,  and  gentle  breezes,  when  we 
passed  a  large  French  steamer,  also  a  little  English  bark, 
which  latter  saluted  us  in  passing  by  dipping  her  colors 
to  the  United  States  flag  at  our  peak.  By  nightfall  we 
entered  the  Mona  Passage  between  Porto  Rico  and  St.  Do- 
mingo. We  did  not  know  but  that  we  should  find  a  man- 
of-war  here,  as  the  papers  stated  that  there  were  many  in 
search  of  us.  Finding  none,  we  decided  they  must  all  be 
busy  blockading  the  Southern  ports.  We  boarded  a  little 
Spanish  steamer  just  from  Boston  and  procured  late 
papers  from  her.  They  were  filled,  literally  crammed, 
with  Banks'  great  expedition,  which  had  given  life  and 
activity  to  all  New  England,  and  from  revival  of  trade 
must  have  made  the  war  very  popular  there.  We  requested 
the  steamer  to  report  us  the  United  States  Steamer  Iro- 
quois. What  did  it  matter?  "A  rose  by  any  other  name 
would  smell  as  sweet,"  and  we  might  not  arouse  such  an 
army  of  sea  hunters  if  we  committed  the  depredation  of 
a  name  only !  The  following  bright  Sunday  morning, 
while  most  of  the  officers  were  on  deck  enjoying  the  atmo- 
sphere and  scenery  so  suggestive  of  history  and  Christo- 
pher Columbus,  with  his  early  dreams  and  realizations, 
and  the  men  were  gathered  in  groups  amusing  themselves 
in  their  own  sailor-like  ways,  we  were  startled  by  the  cry 
of  "sail  ho !"  from  the  lookout.  All  eyes  were  scanning 
the  horizon,  and  soon  discerned  the  snowy  sails  and  taper- 
ing masts  of  the  unmistakable  American.  A  few  hours' 
run  brought  her  within  our  clutches.  The  bark  was  the 
Parker  Cook,  of  Boston,  bound  for  Aux  Cayes,  south  side 
of  St.  Domingo.  She  had  everything  we  needed,  Boston 
bread  and  crackers  of  the  freshest,  beef  and  pork,  cheese 


202  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

and  good  butter,  dried  and  canned  fruits  and  sundries. 
With  the  sun's  setting  rays  we  fired  our  opportune  and 
ample  provider  and  left  her  to  her  fate.  A  little  Baltimore 
schooner  was  our  next  capture.  She  was  of  little  value 
and  her  cargo  neutral,  so  we  transferred  the  prisoners  of 
the  Cook  to  her  and  let  her  go  on  ransom  bond.  She  had 
not  even  given  us  a  chase,  and  like  many  things  in  life 
what  is  most  easily  won  is  little  valued ! 


Chapter  XI 

We  sighted  many  neutral  vessels  within  the  next  few 
days,  and  one  Spanish  frigate  that  at  first  gave  us  quite  a 
scare,  not  knowing  but  she  might  be  the  enemy  about  to 
"gobble  us  up"  in  the  dead  hour  of  midnight.  As  she 
took  no  notice  of  us  we  concluded  she  was  a  Spanish 
frigate  bound  for  Cuba.  We  sighted  and  afterwards  over- 
hauled a  French  bark,  that  took  no  notice  of  the  blank  car- 
tridge we  fired.  The  boarding  officer  asked  the  Frenchman 
"why  he  took  no  notice  of  the  cartridge,  but  waited  for 
the  shot?"  The  angry  monsieur  replied:  "I  and  my  gov- 
ernment are  not  fighting  anybody !  There  is  no  war  go- 
ing on  with  my  people"  (a  most  astonishing  fact  with  his 
mercurial  race!),  and  he  shrugged  his  shoulders  with  a 
Frenchman's  disgust.  In  the  early  part  of  December  the 
boatswain  had  called  out  "all  hands  in  white  frocks  and 
trousers  for  muster,"  when  suddenly  came  the  prolonged 
and  ringing  cry,  "sail  ho!"  "Where  away?"  cried  the 
officer  of  the  deck.  "Broad  on  the  port  bow,  a  large 
steamer,  brig  rigged."  I  took  the  trumpet  and  called  out, 
"All  hands  work  ship !"  In  twenty  minutes  we  were  ready. 
Unfortunately,  she  was  in  the  wrong  direction  for  a  Cali- 
fornia steamer,  such  as  we  wanted.  She  was  northwest 
instead  of  southeast.  We  scrutinized  her  closely.  She 
had  no  guns,  so  must  be  a  packet  ship.  All  her  awnings 
were  set,  and  under  those  on  the  upper  deck  were  a  crowd 
of  passengers,  male  and  female,  and  as  we  drew  nearer 
we  could  see  that  there  were  officers  in  uniforms  and  sol- 
diers in  groups.  The  scene  was  stirring  and  beautiful. 
The  steamer  must  have  suspected  our  nationality,  and  she 
evidently  hoped  to  reach  the  marine  league,  and  steered 
for  the  Cuban  coast.     We  gave  chase,   but  finding  she 


204  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

would  not  stop  we  threw  a  solid  shot  over  her  deck.  It 
was  an  excellent  shot  and  took  a  chip  out  of  her  foremast, 
and  she  stopped  instantly.  We  then  steamed  up  to  her 
and  sent  a  boarding  officer  on  board.  He  soon  returned 
and  reported  her  the  American  Steamer  Ariel,  from  New 
York,  with  five  hundred  passengers,  besides  one  hundred 
and  fifty  marines  and  some  naval  officers  going  out  to 
join  the  Pacific  Squadron.  She  was  a  prize  of  the  white 
elephant  style  and  dimensions,  except  the  prisoners  to  be 
paroled.  We  held  her  a  day  or  two,  in  hopes  of  getting 
a  smaller  ship  to  take  passengers  and  crew,  that  we  might 
burn  her.  To  secure  her  we  sent  our  engineer  to  take  out 
a  part  of  her  machinery  and  disable  her  temporarily.  Our 
boarding  officer,  Lieutenant  Armstrong,  reported  all  alarm 
on  board  among  the  ladies,  but  when  Captain  Semmes 
sent  him  back  to  take  charge  of  her  with  the  promise  and 
assurance  that  no  ill  should  befall  them,  they  were  so  won 
by  his  courtesy  that  the  fairest  among  the  prisoners  began 
to  ask  for  his  bright  Confederate  buttons  as  souvenirs  of 
this  occasion,  and  he  came  back  with  very  few  buttons  on 
his  uniform  and  fell  into  the  tailor's  hands ! 

The  night  we  were  in  company  with  the  Ariel  we  sighted 
a  sail,  which  proved  to  be  a  foreigner,  but  in  returning 
from  the  chase,  stopping  our  engine  suddenly,  a  part  of 
the  machinery  snapped  and  totally  disabled  us  from  mov- 
ing by  steam.  This  we  kept  a  secret,  however,  for  our 
prize  could  easily  have  escaped  us  had  she  known  it.  At 
daylight  the  next  morning  Captain  Semmes  sent  for  the 
captain  of  the  Ariel  and  told  him  that  the  chase  we  boarded 
the  night  before  reported  to  him  that  the  yellow  fever  was 
raging  in  Kingston,  Jamaica,  where  he  had  intended  to 
land  his  prisoners  and  burn  the  A  rich  but  humanity  for- 
bade his  landing  helpless  women  and  children  in  a  pest- 
stricken  city,  so  he  preferred  releasing  him  on  proper  ran- 
som bond,  return  his  machinery,  and  allow  him  to  proceed 
with  his  ship.  This  he  gladly  assented  to,  and  the  papers 
were  drawn  up  to  that  effect.     When  he  returned  to  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  205 

ship  the  ladies  called  for  "three  cheers  for  Captain  Semmes 
and  the  Alabama,"  which  were  heartily  given,  with  a  wav- 
ing of  handkerchiefs  and  adieus.  I  find  the  following  letter 
in  my  old  package,  written  at  this  time,  that  may  be  more 
graphic  than  my  memory : 

We  found  no  trouble  in  running  clear  of  the  San  Jacinto  the  night 
we  left  Martinique,  from  whence  we  steamed  quietly  down  to  an  island 
on  the  Spanish  Main,  where  we  filled  up  with  coals  from  the  Bark 
Agrippina,  which  preceded  us,  sailing  again  in  a  few  days.  Since  then 
we  have  captured  one  bark  and  a  California  steamer  outward  bound. 
She  had  no  gold  aboard,  but  we  had  the  greater  satisfaction  of  placing 
on  parole  one  hundred  and  fifty  United  States  Marines,  besides  several 
prominent  Navy  officers  on  their  way  out  to  join  the  Pacific  Squadron. 
Among  these  officers  was  Captain  Sartori,  whom  you  may  remember 
commanded  the  little  steamer  on  which  my  friend  Gillis  was  lieutenant, 
at  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard.  I  saw  him,  but  had  no  talk  with  him. 
He  was  honest  enough  to  tell  Mr.  Low,  who  was  prize  master  of  the 
Ariel,  that  he  "should  state  to  his  Government  the  erroneous  reports 
in  circulation  about  the  Alabama,  for  himself  and  every  passenger  on 
board — amounting  in  all  to  about  seven  hundred — and  received  the  most 
courteous  treatment."  Holding  the  place  he  does  as  an  officer  in  the 
Navy,  I  am  compelled  to  place  confidence  in  his  voluntary  proffered 
statement.  We  have,  however,  had  statements  before  of  prisoners  who, 
upon  reaching  their  homes,  have  falsified  themselves ;  but  we  care  not 
for  their  report  of  us,  so  long  as  we  conscientiously  serve  the  right- 
eous cause  of  our  country.  The  latest  news  we  have  of  the  war  was 
by  that  steamer,  which  brought  us  dates  up  to  December  ist.  The 
two  armies  were  then  on  either  side  of  the  river  at  Fredericksburg,  our 
forces  under  General  Lee  and  the  enemy  under  General  Burnside.  We 
doubt  if  the  great  battle  will  be  fought  there,  as  it  gives  the  enemy 
every  advantage  in  ready  communication  for  supplies  and  reinforce- 
ments. That  a  battle  has  been  fought,  and  one  of  great  importance, 
during  the  past  month,  I  think  there  is  little  doubt.  The  North  seem 
impatient  to  have  their  new  favorite,  Burnside,  lead  his  army  into  battle, 
and  I  hope  General  Lee  will  give  him  a  good  drubbing  (if  he  has  not 
already  done  so).  I  have  great  fears  for  our  poor  seaboard,  where  their 
gunboats  can  operate  so  effectively.  Charleston  and  Mobile  have  no 
doubt  been  attacked  by  their  ironclads,  with  what  result  it  is  difficult 
for  us  to  conjecture !  I  also  notice  in  the  papers  their  raids  on  our 
salt-works  and  lumber  mills,  when  the  Mcintosh  County  Dragoons 
peppered  them  sharply  on  two  occasions.     Once  upon  going  up  Sapelo 


206  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

River  past  Belleville  they  must  have  gone  within  three  miles  of  our 
place,  and  perhaps  have  abducted  more  of  our  negroes ;  and  again  I 
notice  they  went  up  to  the  Ridge  in  a  couple  of  steamers,  landing  a 
hundred  or  two  armed  negroes  to  reconnoiter  (they  say)  while  their 
boats  loaded  with  lumber.  They  were  fired  upon  sharply  from  the 
undergrowth  and  the  armed  negroes  made  a  masterly  retreat  to  the 
boats !  Upon  reading  this  I  concluded  that  we  had  no  force  there,  but 
a  few  of  our  friends  and  relations  with  shotguns  and  rifles  must  have 
taken  shelter  in  the  undergrowth  and  frightened  them  off.  What  an 
outrage  on  the  civilization  of  the  nineteenth  century !  Arming  our  own 
negroes  to  murder  our  families !  We  hear  that  Mr.  Lincoln's  fiat  has 
gone  forth  liberating  four  million  slaves  on  the  first  day  of  January. 
Truly  he  is  a  mighty  man ! 

Our  young  boarding  officer  was  struck  with  the  conduct 
of  the  male  passengers  of  the  Ariel.  Their  watches  disap- 
peared like  lightning !  They  flew  to  their  trunks  and  be- 
gan overhauling  them  in  the  most  anxious,  secretive  man- 
ner. "I  really  believe,"  said  he,  "they  think  us  no  better 
than  their  Northern  horde  of  thieves  plundering  dwelling 
houses  and  robbing  defenseless  women  and  children."  We 
spent  a  day  or  two  at  repairs,  then  being  in  no  hurry  we 
sailed  to  the  southward  and  westward  and  carefully  feeling 
our  way  along  the  Yucatan  Banks  we  entered  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  We  sighted  a  bark  standing  in  the  same  direc- 
tion as  ourselves.  Who  should  it  be  but  the  old  Scotch 
captain  and  the  good  Ship  Agripplna.  We  had  made  the 
voyage  from  the  east  point  of  Cuba  without  sighting  a 
sail.  The  ocean  seemed  lonely  indeed.  The  day  after 
sighting  the  Agrippina  we  both  stood  in  to  the  anchorage 
together  at  the  Areas  Cayes,  our  rendezvous.  It  was  now 
the  22d  day  of  December.  Here  we  passed  the  holy  sea- 
son of  Christmas.  The  time  so  full  of  home  delights  and 
good  cheer  was  to  be  to  us  but  a  time  of  memories  and 
work.     I  find  a  letter  written  at  that  time. 

Arcas  Cayes,  C.  S.  Str.  Alabama. 

December  25th,  1862. 
I  take  advantage  of  a  quiet  Sunday  (the  last  of  the  old  year)  to  write 
you,  not  by  a  mail  steamer,  and  you  may  never  get  the  letter;  for  it 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  207 

no  doubt  puzzles  even  the  Yankees  to  fix  our  whereabouts  at  the  present 
time,  but  look  on  the  chart  of  the  world  that  hangs  in  your  father's 
library,  and  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  you  can  find  where  I  spent  my  Christ- 
mas— latitude  26  °  12'  north,  longitude  91  °  53'  west — which  spot  you 
will  find  on  the  Yucatan  Banks,  west  coast.  A  snug  harbor,  formed  by 
the  little  industrious  insects  of  the  sea.  Three  small  islands,  or  cayes, 
as  they  are  called,  form  our  harbor.  Each  a  few  hundred  yards  only  in 
circumference,  and  the  largest  of  them  not  over  ten  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  These  coral  reefs,  although  they  do  not  shelter  us  from  the 
force  of  the  wind  which  blows  violently  during  the  frequent  northers 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  yet  form  a  complete  breakwater,  so  that  we 
may  ride  safely  at  our  anchors,  having  a  distant  view  upon  the  horizon 
to  watch  the  approach  of  an  enemy.  Upon  the  largest  of  these  cayes  is 
a  fisherman's  hut,  unoccupied  at  this  season,  but  containing  nets  and 
all  the  implements  for  taking  turtles  during  the  summer,  when  they 
abound.  We  have  taken  the  liberty  of  using  the  nets  and  have  suc- 
ceeded in  taking  a  few  turtles.  The  most  interesting  sight  on  shore, 
however,  are  the  sea  birds,  which  flock  here  in  great  numbers  to  rear 
their  young.  It  is  beautiful  to  witness  the  anxious  defense  the  old 
birds  make  for  the  protection  of  their  young  ducklings ;  nor  will  the 
old  ones  be  drawn  or  driven  from  their  nests,  unless  forcibly  removed 
or  killed.  This  fearlessness,  however,  is  to  be  attributed  in  a  measure 
to  their  ignorance  of  the  depravity  or  wickedness  of  man,  of  which  I 
have  no  doubt  they  will  be  taught  a  lesson  before  we  leave,  for  our 
men,  so  long  at  sea,  are  feasting  on  fresh  eggs  and  young  ducklings, 
notwithstanding  their  fishy  flavor. 

January  1st,  1863.  Another  New  Year  has  rolled  around,  but  alas, 
how  few  the  inmates  of  unbroken  homes  in  our  beloved  Southland  that 
are  permitted  to-day  to  greet  each  other  with  the  time-honored  saluta- 
tion, "A  happy  New  Year!"  Let  us  not  sorrow  or  despond,  but  rather 
lift  up  grateful  hearts  that  we  are  still  able  to  defend  our  homes  and 
firesides  from  the  wicked  invasion  of  the  hordes  of  the  enemy  and  their 
vandal,  minions,  and  God  grant  that  ere  another  year  rolls  around  our 
land  may  rejoice  in  peace  and  acknowledged  independence! 

In  one  of  the  early  days  of  the  new  year,  having  coaled 
ship  abundantly  and  gotten  everything  in  trim,  we  got 
under  way  from  the  Areas  Cayes  and  began  our  cruise  to 
Galveston  harbor.  We  gave  ourselves  five  days  for  the 
trip,  and  but  for  a  calm  that  delayed  a  day  we  should  have 
reached  our  destination  on  the  10th  of  January.  As  it 
was,  the  afternoon  of  the   nth  found  us  with  the  ship 


208  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

headed  for  the  Galveston  lighthouse.  The  man  at  the 
masthead  was  instructed  to  look  out  for  an  immense  fleet 
anchored  there.  After  what  seemed  a  season  of  weary 
waiting"  to  us,  the  cry  came,  "Land  ho !  sail  ho !"  But 
what  a  damper!  No  fleet;  five  vessels  of  war  only.  Pres- 
ently a  shell  or  two,  thrown  by  one  of  the  steamers,  burst 
over  the  city.  "Well,"  said  the  captain  in  astonishment, 
"they  would  not  be  firing  on  their  own  people.  Galveston 
is  recaptured  and  Banks's  great  expedition  a  failure !" 
And  this  proved  true.  General  Magruder,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  Captain  Leon  Smith  and  a  couple  of  river  steam- 
boats, with  a  number  of  sharpshooters  on  board,  had  driven 
the  fleet  to  sea.  The  recapture  of  the  city  had  changed 
the  plans  of  the  great  expedition.  Banks  afterwards  made 
the  invasion  of  Texas  by  the  Red  River  Valley,  and  was 
met  and  repulsed  by  the  gallant  Dick  Taylor. 

While  we  were  talking  over  the  changed  condition  of 
affairs,  deciding  that  it  would  not  be  safe  to  tackle  five 
men-of-war,  each  one  of  which  was  doubtless  more  than  a 
match  for  us,  the  lookout  cried  from  aloft,  "One  of  the 
steamers  is  coming  in  chase  of  us."  This  was  a  new  role 
for  the  Alabama!  She  had  done  a  good  deal  of  chasing, 
but  never  been  chased  before.  What  was  to  be  done? 
We  must  show  our  heels  till  we  got  out  of  sight  of  the  fleet. 
In  ten  minutes  we  had  up  steam  and  started  on  our  decoy. 
We  furled  sails  and  cleared  ship  for  action.  We  were  now 
about  twenty  miles  from  the  fleet.  The  enemy,  approach- 
ing on  our  starboard  bow,  took  position  on  our  starboard 
quarter.  We  were  now  within  a  hundred  yards  of  each 
other,  heading  in  the  same  direction,  when  both  engines 
stopped.  The  enemy  hailed,  "What  ship  is  that?"  We 
replied,  "Her  Britannic  Majesty's  Ship  Petrel."  We  de- 
manded, "Who  are  you?"  but  only  heard  United  States 

Ship ,"  name  lost  to  us.     The  stranger  said,  "If  you 

please,  I  will  send  a  boat  on  board  of  you."  Captain 
Semmes  turned  to  me  and  said,  "Are  you  ready  for 
action?"     I  replied,  "The  men  are  only  waiting  for  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  209 

word."  He  said,  "Don't  strike  them  in  disguise;  tell  them 
who  we  are,  and  give  the  broadside  at  the  name."  I  took 
the  trumpet  and  sang  out,  "This  is  the  Confederate  States 
Steamer  Alabama — fire!"  Away  went  the  broadside.  The 
wind  was  blowing  in  the  direction  of  the  fleet,  and  the 
Federal  Admiral  must  have  heard  the  guns  and  realized 
that  the  vessel  he  sent  in  chase  had  a  fight  on  hand. 

The  Alabama  fought  starboard  broadside  and  her  an- 
tagonist port  broadside,  and  each  ship  under  steam  it 
became  a  running  fight.  Our  men  handled  their  guns 
well.  The  action  was  sharp  and  decisive,  and  did  not  last 
long.  Just  thirteen  minutes  after  the  firing  began  the 
enemy  fired  an  off  gun,  a  signal  of  defeat.  Our  men  sent 
up  a  wild  cheer.  We  steamed  close  to  the  vanquished 
steamer  and  asked  if  they  surrendered.  The  captain  re- 
plied that  he  did.  We  then  offered  assistance,  and  he 
said  his  ship  was  sinking,  and  he  needed  our  boats.  They 
were  promptly  sent.  In  his  report  Captain  Blake  says : 
"After  considerable  delay  [it  no  doubt  seemed  so  to  him] 
caused  by  the  report  that  a  steamer  was  coming  from  Gal- 
veston, the  Alabama  sent  us  assistance,  and  I  have  the 
pleasure  of  informing  the  Department  that  every  living 
being  was  conveyed  safely  from  the  Hatteras  to  the  Ala- 
bama." 

Immediately  after  our  fight  with  the  Hatteras  we  made 
sail.  When  clear  of  all  chances  of  pursuit  we  hoisted  the 
propeller  and  put  sail  on,  as  we  were  running  before  a 
northerly  gale  of  wind.  The  next  morning  I  was  on  deck 
very  early,  looking  after  the  clearing  up  of  ship  and  put- 
ting things  in  order  after  the  fight,  when  Captain  Blake 
came  up  on  deck.  Having  known  him  in  the  old  service, 
he  saluted  me,  "How  do  you  do,  Mr.  Kell?  Fortune 
favors  the  brave,  sir."  I  thanked  him  and  replied,  "We 
take  advantage  of  all  fortune's  favors."  We  ran  on  with 
a  spanking  breeze,  and  that  day  sighted  and  came  up  with 
a  ship.  It  was  our  coal  ship,  the  Agrippina.  The  old 
Scotchman  dipped  his  colors  by  way  of  saluting,  and  we 

14 


210  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

returned  the  salute.  He  little  dreamed  what  work  we  had 
accomplished  since  we  parted  from  him  a  few  days  before. 
We  continued  our  course  with  favorable  winds  till  we  ap- 
proached Kingston,  Jamaica,  when  we  lowered  our  pro- 
peller and  steamed  into  the  harbor.  Here  we  met  the 
English  admiral  of  the  West  India  Squadron.  Captain 
Semmes  reported  his  arrival  with  a  number  of  prisoners. 
After  communicating  with  the  authorities  on  shore  we 
were  permitted  to  land  them,  which  we  did  after  paroling. 
Captain  Semmes,  feeling  the  want  of  rest  and  relief  from 
the  life  on  shipboard,  accepted  the  invitation  of  a  friend 
on  shore  and  visited  him  at  his  bungalow  on  the  heights, 
leaving  me  in  charge  of  the  ship  to  coal  and  repair  dam- 
ages received  in  the  fight,  which  amounted  to  a  few  shot 
holes  and  some  rigging  cuts,  all  of  which  was  soon  attended 
to  and  the  men  given  liberty.  In  the  company  of  our 
recent  prisoners  all  were  "hail  fellow  well  met !"  Our 
men,  carried  away  with  victory,  many  of  them  got  glori- 
ously drunk,  and  gave  me  a  good  deal  of  trouble  to  get 
them  back  and  properly  sobered.  After  reporting  all 
things  in  readiness.  Captain  Semmes  returned  on  board, 
quite  refreshed  from  his  rest,  giving  us  a  glorious  descrip- 
tion of  the  difference  of  temperature  he  had  enjoyed  up  in 
the  hills.  We  then  got  the  ship  ready  for  sea  and  pro- 
ceeded on  our  wav. 


Chapter  XII 

We  left  Port  Royal  harbor  late  in  January — about  the 
25th — bound  for  the  coast  of  Brazil.  We  passed  through 
a  heavy  sea,  with  a  stiff  northeaster  blowing,  but  by  morn- 
ing the  wind  had  moderated  and  the  sun  rose  bright  and 
clear.  The  first  business  on  hand  was  a  few  trial  cases 
and  courts-martial  of  our  delinquents  and  culprits  of  the 
few  days'  stay  at  Jamaica.  These  were  scarcely  disposed 
of  when  "sail  ho !"  greeted  the  morning  air  and  our  listen- 
ing ears  from  the  mast-head.  The  tapering  masts  and 
fluttering  sails  in  the  idle  breeze  proclaimed  her  nation- 
ality. She  was  the  Golden  Rule,  for  Aspinwall,  and  be- 
longed to  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Steamship  Company.  We 
had  the  satisfaction  of  burning  with  this  prize  a  complete 
set  of  masts,  rigging,  etc.,  meant  for  the  United  States 
Brig  Bainbridge,  that  had  lately  been  swept  of  everything 
of  the  kind  in  a  gale  off  the  coast  of  Aspinwall.  We  also 
destroyed  a  lot  of  patent  medicines.  Salt  air  is  very 
healthy  and  bracing,  and  we  did  not  expect  to  need  any 
of  them  in  our  voyage  to  the  distant  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
and  the  East.  The  weather  was  not  good  at  this  time; 
we  had  head  winds  to  labor  against,  with  diminished  speed, 
and  sometimes  stiff  northeasters  blowing — great  trials  to 
the  mariner.  We  boarded  a  brig,  but  she  was  Spanish, 
bound  for  Havana.  Later  in  the  night  we  hove  another 
sail  to  with  a  shot,  and  sent  a  boat  on  board  of  her.  She 
was  the  Chatelaine,  of  Boston,  just  from  Guadalupe,  where 
she  had  discharged  a  cargo,  and  was  now  on  her  way  to 
Cuba  for  sugar  and  rum  for  the  Bostonians.  We  saved 
her  the  trouble  of  another  cargo,  and  she  lit  up  the  heights 
of  Alta  Vela,  a  mountain  of  rock  about  fifteen  miles  from 
the  mainland  of  San   Domingo,  and  frightened  the  sea 


N 


212  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

birds,  if  there  were  no  other  eyes  to  witness  the  confla- 
gration. 

We  steamed  eastward  and  anchored  off  the  old  town  of 
San  Domingo.  Here  we  landed  our  prisoners  of  the  two 
captured  ships.  There  is  no  city  in  the  world  of  more 
historic  interest  than  this  old  city  of  San  Domingo.  It 
was  the  temporary  home  of  Christopher  Columbus,  and 
his  last  resting  place  for  two  and  a  half  centuries.  Here 
his  son,  Diego  Columbus,  was  sent  to  enjoy  a  position  of 
vice-royalty.  The  ruins  of  the  Palacio  of  Diego  are  still 
to  be  seen,  and  also  those  of  the  Dominican  Monastery, 
that  once  sheltered  three  hundred  monks.  Who  can  con- 
jecture at  this  late  period,  or  what  imagination  picture, 
the  sorrows  of  their  loveless,  homeless,  human  lives !  Yet 
the  self-abnegation  with  some  devout  souls  must  have 
found  its  compensation  in  the  comforting  love  that  some- 
times fills  the  hearts  of  those  that  "have  left  all  to  follow 
Him."  On  the  cession  of  the  Island  of  Haiti  to  France, 
the  remains  of  Columbus  and  his  brother,  Bartholomew, 
were  removed  to  Havana.  San  Domingo  was  founded  by 
Bartholomew  Columbus  in  1496.  The  great  earthquakes 
of  1684  and  1 69 1  are  responsible  for  the  ruin  of  the  mag- 
nificent buildings  that  once  adorned  this  historic  ground, 
though  there  has  also  been  much  vandalism  in  later  peri- 
ods, when  Sir  Francis  Drake  took  the  city  by  assault,  and 
in  the  years  1822  to  1825,  when  the  Haitians  themselves 
occupied  the  city  for  its  spoliation  and  desecration.  At 
the  time  of  our  visit  its  greatness  was  but  a  memory  and 
a  dream.  There  were  but  three  craft  in  its  waters,  our 
own  one  of  them.  Haiti  has  been  truly  called  the  "Para- 
dise of  the  negro."  Here  fruit  abounds  the  year  round. 
Fish  is  always  abundant.  The  generous  sunshine  allows 
them  to  do  with  very  little  clothing,  which  the  Yankee 
skipper  can  supply  at  small  cost,  and  the  people  revel  in 
idleness.  We  tried  to  make  an  early  start  from  this  land 
of  ease,  but  the  usual  supplies  of  the  market,  butchers  and 
fruit  vendors,  all  on  board  for  the  last  refreshing  supplies, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  213 

detained  us.  Finally  getting  rid  of  the  motley  crowd  we 
turned  our  head  to  the  eastward  and  steamed  away.  The 
day's  run  was  quiet,  and  after  nightfall  we  entered  the 
Mona  Passage. 

Our  first  capture  after  leaving  San  Domingo  was  the 
Schooner  Palmetto,  bound  from  New  York  for  Porto  Rico. 
We  had  a  chase  of  some  hours  to  get  her,  but  her  papers 
concealed  nothing,  made  no  attempts  at  neutrality,  and  her 
cargo  being  provisions  we  helped  ourselves  to  all  articles 
needed,  and  burned  her.  The  next  day  we  descried  four 
sails.  The  first  we  gave  chase  to,  but  she  was  to  windward 
and  a  long  way  ahead.  To  secure  her  we  might  lose  the 
other  three.  We  abandoned  her  and  gave  chase  to  two 
of  the  others.  We  felt  sure  they  were  both  Americans, 
they  were  so  tall  and  white.  One  was  steering  to  the  east- 
ward and  one  to  the  westward.  The  first  was  evidently 
drawing  us  on  to  allow  the  other  to  escape.  Taking  her, 
we  put  a  prize  crew  on  board  and  started  in  pursuit  of  the 
other.  She  was  less  obstinate  than  her  confrere  and  hove 
to  at  the  first  gun.  She  was  the  Bark  Olive  Jane,  wine 
laden  from  Bordeaux  for  New  York.  Not  a  bottle  of 
brandy  or  a  basket  of  champagne  saw  the  decks  of  the 
Alabama!  The  sea  maidens  and  their  lovers  must  have 
drank  a  libation  to  the  God  of  War  if  the  flames  left  any 
to  go  clown  to  their  seashells  and  coral  homes  beneath 
the  waves !  We  then  turned  to  our  first  prize.  She  was 
the  Golden  Eagle,  for  San  Francisco  from  the  Pacific 
Islands,  cargo  guano.  We  burned  her.  Though  she  was 
the  Golden  Eagle,  she  (or  her  cargo)  must  not  be  allowed 
to  make  the  golden  grain  for  our  enemies  when  we  had 
hardly  enough  for  the  helpless  women  and  children  at 
home !  A  day  or  two  after  the  capture  of  these  two  ships 
we  sighted  four  more  sails,  all  bound  for  Europe.  One 
was  French,  the  other  three  English.  The  next  day  a  lone 
Portuguese  passed  us.  The  following  day  we  came  along 
with  a  Dutch  brig  and  an  English  bark,  also  an  English 
four-master — in  none  of  these  did  we  take  special  interest. 


214  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

The  next  morning  the  lookout  reported  seven  sails,  all 
bound  for  Europe,  all  neutral.  Truly  we  were  getting 
into  good  company.  Our  dear  Maury  had  so  marked  the 
pathways  of  the  sea  that  they  were  like  the  highways  of 
the  land,  easy  to  pass  by  his  charts,  the  lighted  lanterns 
of  the  deep ! 

We  next  sighted  an  English  ship,  and  an  American 
almost  in  her  company.  The  English  one  saluted  us  in 
passing.  The  American  was  very  chary,  and  evidently 
tried  to  get  out  of  the  way.  We  sent  her  a  shot  that  made 
her  yield.  The  boarding  officer  found  her  with  a  cargo 
of  guano  from  the  Chincha  Islands,  belonging  to  the  Peru- 
vian Government,  bound  for  Antwerp.  She  was  the  ship 
Washington  (great  only  in  name).  We  released  her  on 
ransom  bond  on  account  of  her  neutral  cargo,  and  put  our 
prisoners  on  board  of  her  to  be  landed.  On  the  ist  day 
of  March  we  found  ourselves  in  the  early  morning  most 
unexpectedly  (for  the  night  had  been  dark)  within  a  mile 
or  two  of  a  tall  American.  A  gun  was  all  that  was  re- 
quired to  bring  her  nearer  to  us,  and  we  certainly  wanted 
her  mail  or  late  newspapers.  She  was  the  John  A.  Parks, 
of  Maine,  and  had  lumber  on  board,  bound  for  Monte- 
video. We  helped  ourselves  for  our  carpenter,  who  was 
transported  with  delight.  With  all  our  captures  we  had 
never  had  anything  in  his  line.  He  had  to  be  remon- 
strated with,  lest  he  should  want  it  all,  as  we  could  not 
accommodate  a  cargo  of  lumber  on  our  little  ship  all  at 
one  time.  We  burned  the  Parks.  The  coveted  mail  both 
amused  and  aggravated  us.  In  these  papers  came  news 
that  the  "new  rebel  pirate  Florida  had  put  to  sea  to  assist 
the  British  pirate  Alabama  in  her  work  of  destruction  to 
American  commerce,"  etc. 

At  this  time,  while  the  John  A.  Parks  was  still  burning, 
we  came  up  with  an  English  bark  that  kindly  took  our 
prisoners,  the  Captain  of  the  Parks,  his  wife  and  two 
nephews,  to  land  them  in  England.  Our  next  capture 
was  the  Bethiah  Thaver,  from  the  Chincha  Islands,  with 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  215 

guano  for  the  Government  of  Peru.  We  ransomed  her. 
We  were  now  nearing  the  equator.  We  met  a  number 
of  sails,  but  all  were  neutral.  About  midnight  on  the  15th 
of  March  (the  weather  was  very  thick  and  cloudy)  the 
lookout  roused  us  with  "sail  ho,  close  aboard !"  We 
hailed,  but  she  flew  on  the  wings  of  the  wind.  We  wore 
ship  and  made  sail  in  pursuit,  and  used  all  the  expedition 
we  could,  but  by  the  time  our  preparations  were  made  she 
was  nearly  out  of  sight.  Between  three  and  four  o'clock 
we  had  gained  on  her  so  effectually  as  to  heave  her  to 
with  a  gun.  She  was  the  Punjaub,  of  Boston;  cargo,  jute 
and  linseed  oil.  The  cargo  being  properly  certified  Eng- 
lish property,  we  released  her  on  ransom  bond  and  sent 
the  prisoners  from  the  Bethiah  Thayer  on  board  of  her  to 
be  landed.  On  the  morning  of  the  23d  of  March  we  made 
two  captures,  The  Morning  Star,  of  Boston,  and  the  King- 
fisher, of  Fair  Haven,  Massachusetts.  We  released  the 
first  on  ransom  bond  and  burned  the  latter.  She  was  a 
little  whaler,  and  her  crew  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  men  all 
Portuguese.  We  were  now  in  sight  of  the  commerce  of 
the  world  and  never  out  of  sight  of  sails.  At  the  crossing 
of  the  equator  (as  all  mariners  know)  the  weather  is  apt 
to  be  capricious.  Sometimes  a  thunder  storm,  followed  by 
light  airs  and  calms.  Two  days  after  burning  the  King- 
Usher  we  made  two  captures,  the  Charles  Hill  and  the  Nora, 
both  of  Boston,  bound  for  liverpool.  We  took  forty  tons 
of  coal  and  half  a  dozen  recruits  from  these  ships  and  then 
burned  them. 

On  the  19th  of  March  we  crossed  the  equator.  There 
was  a  dense  and  blinding  rainfall,  and  the  great  equatorial 
current  was  setting  to  the  westward.  We  had  to  abandon 
a  chase  at  this  juncture,  losing  her  in  the  gloom  and  dark- 
ness. The  weather  continued  raining,  with  fitful  gusts 
and  calms,  for  several  days.  The  3d  of  April  the  clouds 
lifted  in  the  early  morning  watch  and  showed  us  a  tall, 
fine  ship  going  to  the  southward.  The  wind  died  away, 
which  was  a  great  help  to  us,  but  towards  noon  a  heavy 


216  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

rain  set  in,  when  we  lost  sight  of  her  for  a  time.  We  steered 
in  her  supposed  direction,  however,  chased  all  day,  and 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  sent  a  whaleboat 
out  to  find  her  and  halt  her,  and  a  boarding  officer  to  take 
possession.  Night  was  setting  in.  We  hoisted  a  light 
to  guide  them  in  our  direction.  In  two  hours  more  she 
was  alongside  of  us,  a  prize.  She  was  the  Louisa  Hatch, 
of  Maine,  with  a  cargo  of  coal  for  the  Island  of  Ceylon. 
What  a  godsend  in  mid-ocean !  Hundreds  of  tons  of 
coal  nearing  the  Brazilian  coast,  where  coal,  from  its  scar- 
city, always  brings  from  fifteen  to  twenty  dollars  a  ton. 
Our  old  Scotchman  and  the  Agrippina  were  to  meet  us 
at  Fernando  de  Noronha,  but  we  could  not  let  the  Louisa 
Hatch  slip,  or  destroy  her  valuable  and  needed  cargo,  so 
we  put  a  prize  master  on  board  and  directed  him  to  keep 
in  our  company.  By  the  9th  or  10th  of  April  we  came 
to  our  anchorage  off  Fernando  de  Noronha.  The  Ship 
Agrippina  had  never  put  in  an  appearance.  We  concluded 
the  old  Scotch  sinner  had  grown  to  regard  us  as  veritable 
pirates,  or  become  afraid  of  our  powerful  enemy.  We 
knew  he  had  been  dispatched  to  us  by  our  faithful  friend 
Captain  Bulloch.  No  doubt  he  sold  the  cargo  of  coal 
elsewhere.  We  now  saw  the  wisdom  and  foresight  of 
Captain  Semmes  in  holding  on  to  the  cargo  of  the  Ship 
Louisa  Hatch. 


Chapter  XIII 

To  the  mariner  in  these  waters  the  solid  peak  of  granite 
that  marks  and  adorns  the  Island  of  Fernando  de  Noronha 
is  nothing  new,  but  it  must  always  excite  wonder  and 
admiration  as  one  of  the  marvelous  freaks  of  Nature  in 
this  volcanic  region  of  the  earth.  The  Island  is  made  use 
of  by  Brazil  as  a  penal  settlement.  It  is  well  guarded  by 
troops,  and  has  a  Brazilian  army  officer  in  command,  but 
having  very  little  trade  and  little  communication  with  the 
outside  world  a  more  lonely,  out-of-the-way  rendezvous 
could  not  have  been  chosen  for  us.  It  has  some  little  farm- 
ing interest,  worked  by  the  convicts,  and  we  were  able  to 
get  some  fresh  supplies.  We  went  through  the  usual  cus- 
tom of  communicating  our  arrival  to  the  Governor  of  the 
Island  and  he  sent  an  aide  to  call.  The  Island  is  in  some 
parts  quite  fertile,  and  I  remember  that  we  ate  there  the 
young  cocoanut  in  its  custard-like  stage,  when  it  can  be 
dipped  out  of  its  shell  with  a  spoon,  and  is  very  delicious. 
Captain  Semmes  and  Dr.  Gait  called  upon  the  governor 
and  found  him  at  a  late  breakfast,  which  he  insisted  upon 
their  partaking  of,  after  which  they  had  cigars,  and  then 
horses  were  ordered  that  they  might  accompany  the  gov- 
ernor in  his  '"morning  constitutional."  His  family  were, 
to  say  the  least  of  it,  "caste,"  but  we  were  not  expected 
to  take  notice  of  so  small  a  matter  as  that  in  foreign  coun- 
tries ! 

It  took  us  some  time  to  coal,  and  while  we  were  lying 
in  port  with  the  Louisa  Hatch  beside  us,  two  ships  (evi- 
dently whalers)  came  in,  hove  to,  and  lowered  boats.  Their 
object  was  to  barter  sperm  oil  for  supplies.  As  we  had 
no  flag  in  sight  they  could  not  know  our  nationality.  They 
innocently  inquired,  and  our  prize  master  told  them  "we 


218  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

were  a  Brazilian  steamer  bringing  convicts."  They 
seemed  suspicious  of  us.  We  quietly  got  up  steam  and 
moved  outside  and  reconnoitered.  They  were  outside 
the  marine  league.  We  fired  as  we  drew  near,  and  they 
made  no  resistance.  One  was  the  Bark  Lafayette,  of  New 
Bedford;  we  made  short  work  of  her.  The  other  was  the 
Kate  Cory,  of  Westport.  We  were  going  to  make  use  of 
the  latter  to  convey  our  prisoners  (now  quite  numerous) 
to  be  landed,  but  a  Brazilian  schooner  that  had  come  to 
anchor  offered  to  take  the  prisoners  to  Pernambuco  if  we 
would  reward  them  for  their  trouble  by  giving  them  a 
few  barrels  of  flour  and  pork.  This  we  consented  to  do, 
and  so  we  burned  the  Cory.  We  remained  some  days 
after  coaling,  hoping  the  Agrippina  would  come,  but 
finally  giving  her  up,  we  went  to  sea.  This  was  now  the 
latter  part  of  April,  and  with  our  bunkers  filled  and  all 
hands  refreshed  by  a  season  of  rest,  we  steamed  forty  or 
fifty  miles  to  the  eastward,  let  the  steam  go  down,  raised 
the  propeller,  and  quietly  began  our  usual  work  of  watch- 
ing for  the  enemy's  ships. 

We  had  been  but  twenty-four  hours  out  when  the  signal 
was  given,  "sail  ho !"  Another  whaler,  thoroughly  satu- 
rated with  oil,  returning  home  after  a  three  years'  cruise 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  She  was  the  Bark  Nye.  We 
burned  her.  The  next  day  we  took  the  Dorcas  Prince, 
of  New  York,  bound  for  Shanghai.  The  Prince  was 
forty  days  or  more  out  and  her  newspapers  were  old.  We 
transferred  the  master,  his  wife  and  crew,  and  burned  the 
ship.  For  some  days  we  overhauled  nothing.  We  re- 
ceived through  courtesy  some  papers  from  a  St.  John's, 
New  Brunswick,  ship,  but  they  had  nothing  interesting 
in  them.  On  the  3d  day  of  May  we  gave  chase  to  a  fine 
clipper  ship  and  took  her,  the  Union  Jack  by  name.  While 
we  were  pursuing  the  Union  Jack  another  sail  hove  in 
sight.  She  also  became  a  prize — the  Sealark,  of  New 
York,  bound  for  San  Francisco.  Both  ships  were  burned. 
From  these  ships  we  obtained  late  papers  and  found  that 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  219 

the  "Stars  and  Stripes  were  waving  over  half  the  slave 
States!  In  thirty  days  Charleston  would  be  taken  and 
the  Mississippi  opened."  All  very  discouraging  news  to 
us,  but  only  the  greater  inducement  for  vigor  in  our  work. 
We  were  making  our  way  toward  Bahia  with  the  crews 
of  our  prizes,  four  in  number,  that  must  be  gotten  rid  of, 
as  they  were  more  than  we  could  hold  with  comfort.  We 
reached  the  anchorage  off  this  city  on  the  nth  of  May! 
The  bay  and  city  of  Bahia  are  beautiful  and  imposing. 
The  city  is  divided  into  two  parts — upper  and  lower  Ba- 
hia. The  harbor  is  so  commodious  as  to  take  in  vessels 
of  any  size.  Bahia  was  originally  the  Capital  of  Brazil, 
but  about  the  year  1763  the  viceroyalty  was  transferred 
to  Rio  Janeiro.  There  are  few  cities  of  its  size  that  have 
as  many  fine  public  buildings,  or  as  much  natural  beauty. 
When  one  ascends  into  the  hills  upon  which  beautiful 
residences,  as  well  as  public  buildings,  are  situated,  the 
eye  takes  in  the  scene  below  like  a  vast  amphitheatre  with 
the  lovely  bay  in  front  of  it.  I  think  the  people  of  Bahia 
were  disposed  to  be  very  kind  to  us,  though  we  had  been 
preceded  in  our  visit  there  by  very  condemnatory  articles 
in  their  papers,  complaining  of  our  destruction  of  the  two 
ships  outside  the  marine  league  at  the  island  off  their 
coast.  The  captain  with  his  command  of  international 
law  soon  set  them  right  about  that  matter.  We  were  a 
week  or  more  in  Bahia,  enjoying  all  the  hospitalities  of  its 
citizens  and  the  salubriousness  of  its  climate.  The  men 
had  their  runs  on  shore,  and  a  British  merchant  gave  a 
very  handsome  ball  to  the  officers  of  our  ship. 

The  morning  after  this  entertainment  a  steamer  of  war 
made  its  appearance  in  the  bay,  but  showed  no  colors,  it 
not  being  the  hour  for  hoisting  them.  We  showed  them 
our  colors,  and  quickly  in  reply  was  the  Confederate  flag 
thrown  to  the  breeze.  It  was  the  Georgia,  commanded 
by  Wm.  L.  Maury.  She  had  come  in  to  meet  her  coal- 
ship,  ordered  here  to  rendezvous.  Our  old  brother  offi- 
cers of  the  Sumter,  Chapman  and  Evans,  were  on  board 


220  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

of  her.  It  was  a  joy  to  meet  again  and  hold  pleasant  in- 
tercourse with  them  in  a  brotherly  way,  to  exchange  our 
experiences  in  the  time  we  had  been  parted,  and  express 
our  hopes  of  meeting  again  at  home  in  brighter  times.  In 
a  few  days  we  were  ready  for  sea  again. 

On  the  25th  of  May  (a  day  or  two  out  of  Bahia)  the 
shout  of  "sail  ho!"  from  the  masthead  served  to  remind- 
us  that  we  had  regained  the  track  of  commerce  on  the 
pathway  of  the  deep.  We  were  preparing  to  chase,  when 
"sail  ho !"  rang  out  again.  The  ships  were  in  the  same 
direction.  We  had  a  rough  time  boarding  and  overhaul- 
ing them.  They  were  the  Gilderslieve,  a  New  York  ship, 
from  London,  with  coals  for  some  navigation  company; 
the  other,  the  Justina,  a  Baltimore  ship.  We  put  the  pris- 
oners of  the  first  ship  on  the  Justina  and  released  her  (as 
some  of  her  cargo  was  neutral)  on  ransom  bond  and 
burned  the  Gilderslieve.  The  next  evening  we  began  a 
chase  that  consumed  the  night  and  amounted  to  nothing, 
being  only  a  Dutchman !  The  next  evening  we  had  a 
successful  chase  of  the  Jabez  Snow,  of  Buckport,  Maine, 
from  Cardiff,  with  coals  for  Montevideo.  We  took  pro- 
visions and  cordage  and  consigned  her  to  the  flames.  Our 
next  capture  was  the  Bark  Amazonian,  of  Boston,  bound 
for  Montevideo.  We  turned  over  our  prisoners  to  an 
English  brig  to  be  landed  in  Rio  Janeiro,  where  he  was 
going,  paying  well  for  the  courtesy  in  provisions.  The 
next  capture  was  the  Clipper  Ship  Talisman,  from  New 
York,  bound  for  Shanghai.  She  made  no  pretense  at 
neutrality,  and  we  burned  her. 

The  coast  of  Brazil  is  at  all  times  and  in  all  weathers  a 
dangerous  coast,  being  coral  bound,  and  coasting  there 
can  never  be  a  pleasure  to  the  seaman  from  the  amount 
of  anxiety  it  involves.  We  were  now  in  the  winter  season 
of  this  country,  for  their  June  is  as  our  December,  and 
we  experienced  some  miserable  weather.  In  the  middle 
of  June  we  were  compelled  to  put  on  our  winter  clothing 
to  be  comfortable.     On  the  20th  of  June  we  captured  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  221 

Bark  Conrad.  She  was  a  very  pretty  little  vessel,  and 
Captain  Semmes  resolved  to  make  a  cruiser  of  her.  We 
had  captured  and  taken  from  the  Talisman  two  rifled  12- 
pounders  (brass),  which  we  transferred  to  our  cruiser. 
Acting  Lieutenant  Low  was  made  captain,  Midshipman 
George  T.  Sinclair,  first  lieutenant;  Adolphe  Marmelstein, 
second  lieutenant,  and  two  young  seamen  watch  officers, 
and  we  gave  them  ten  men.  Twenty  rifles  and  half  a 
dozen  revolvers  completed  the  armament.  We  called  her 
the  Tuscaloosa,  being'  the  offspring  of  Alabama.  When 
the  Tuscaloosa  hoisted  the  Confederate  colors  three  cheers 
were  given  by  the  Alabama.  The  cheers  were  heartily 
answered  by  the  small  crew  of  the  newly-commissioned 
ship.  The  youthful  captain  and  crew  made  sail  on  their 
cruise,  our  first  appointed  meeting  to  be  at  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

We  now  passed  some  little  time  of  inactivity.  We 
overhauled  a  good  many  ships,  but  all  were  neutrals. 
Either  our  enemy  were  learning  the  "tricks  of  trade,"  or 
were  too  much  engaged  at  home  to  take  care  of  their 
commerce  abroad,  or  possibly  they  were  "gaining  wisdom 
by  experience"  and  were  daily  growing  more  wary  of  the 
few  little  Confederate  cruisers  that  were  trying  to  do  what 
they  could  for  their  blockaded  homes  and  country.  It 
was  late  in  June  or  the  first  of  July  that  we  next  sighted  an 
American.  We  were  actually  by  this  time  in  search  of 
food.  The  ship's  bread  had  become  both  stale  and  weevil- 
eaten,  and  we  were  hoping  daily  to  fall  in  with  a  well-pro- 
visioned ship.  This  only  could  prevent  our  going  all  the 
way  to  Rio  Janeiro  for  breadstuff's.  As  Captain  Blake,  of 
the  Hatteras,  had  once  facetiously  observed,  "fortune 
favors  the  brave,"  and  the  shot  we  sent  across  the  bow  of 
our  next  capture  made  the  ship  heave  to  speedily.  She 
was  the  Anna  Schmidt,  from  Boston,  for  San  Francisco; 
cargo,  sundries,  which  means  everything — food,  clothing, 
medicines,  all  required  for  the  use  of  man,  and  "Boston 
notions"    thrown    in    for    good    measure !     Such    Boston 


222  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

bread,  biscuits,  and  crackers,  and  all  so  fresh  and  good ! 
There  was  no  attempt  at  protection  papers,  so  we  helped 
ourselves  hugely  (with  thankful  hearts)  and  burned  her, 
after  our  task  of  lightening  her  cargo  was  finished.  We 
had  grown  so  accustomed  to  these  duties  that  the  days 
were  very  monotonous  when  such  work  did  not  present 
itself.  We  next  took  the  Ship  Express,  of  Boston,  from 
Callao,  for  Antwerp;  cargo,  guano  from  the  Chincha 
Islands.  The  papers  were  not  satisfactory  and  the  ship 
was  burned.  The  master  of  the  Express  had  his  wife  and 
a  lady  friend  on  board,  and  though  they  were  just  from 
Cape  Horn  there  seemed  no  alternative  but  that  we  must 
take  them  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  In  the  travel  of 
several  hundred  miles  we  now  made  we  sighted  but  one 
ship. 

Captain  Semmes  thought  it  best  to  go  first  to  Saldanha 
Bay,  as  we  did  not  know  how  many  Yankee  men-of-war 
we  might  find  waiting  for  us  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
We  arrived  at  Saldanha  Bay  on  the  28th  of  July,  1863. 
Saldanha  Bay  is  in  Cape  Colony,  South  Africa,  fifty  or 
sixty  miles  north-northwest  of  Cape  Town.  It  has  a  fine 
anchorage  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  is  the  station  in 
this  part  of  the  world  for  the  Dutch  East  India  Squadron 
on  the  west  side.  It  seems  hard  to  understand  or  appre- 
ciate that  it  should  not  hold  the  place  in  the  commercial 
world  that  Cape  Town  does.  It  is  really  a  land-locked 
harbor,  where  ships  of  any  size  may  ride  at  anchor  safely, 
while  the  gales  at  Cape  Town  sometimes  cause  even  the 
sailor's  stout  heart  to  tremble  and  his  cheek  to  blanch  with 
fear.  Arriving  at  Saldanha  Bay  we  were  surprised  to  find 
nothing  at  anchor.  We  communicated  with  the  shore  for 
supplying  the  ship  with  fresh  provisions,  and  sent  the 
seine  for  securing  fish.  The  fishermen  had  fine  success 
and  reported  the  bay  "grand  fishing  ground."  The  orig- 
inal settlers  of  Saldanha  were  exclusively  Dutch,  but  the 
country  has  for  many  years  past  been  in  the  hands  of  the 
English.     At  the  time  of  our  arrival  there,  late  in  July,  we 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  223 

might  have  expected  bad  weather,  as  the  month  of  August 
would  correspond  with  February  in  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere, but  their  winter  had  not  set  in,  or  rather  was  un- 
precedented!}^ mild,  and  to  us  delightful.  We  set  to  work 
with  a  hearty  good  will  to  overhaul  ship,  to  look  after 
her  machinery,  rigging,  caulking,  repainting,  etc.  Those 
not  required  for  the  necessary  work  were  given  all  the 
delight  of  going  on  shore  in  search  of  pleasure  and  amuse- 
ment, and  "Jack"  had  in  turn  his  "liberty  days"  to  idle  and 
frolic.  Although  immediately  at  the  anchorage  the  shore 
looked  barren  and  rocky,  with  immense  granite  boulders 
and  precipices  on  every  hand,  proceed  a  little  and  Nature 
asserts  her  right  to  deck  the  earth  in  verdure,  and  affords 
excellent  grasses  for  sheep,  that  are  abundant,  and  cattle, 
that  are  plentiful,  but  rather  undersized.  Far  back  in 
the  interior  game  is  fine  and  hunting  a  grand  sport. 
Pheasants  are  abundant,  the  deer  is  native  in  several  varie- 
ties, rabbits  and  quail  in  bountiful  supply,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  wilder  sport,  for  the  ostrich  in  its  native  plains, 
the  lion  and  tiger  in  their  jungles,  and  still  further  inland 
the  majestic  elephant  is  at  home. 

We  were  thronged  with  visitors.  All  came  with  ex- 
tended hands,  for  the  English  papers  had  proclaimed  our 
"piratical  deeds,"  and  all  seemed  anxious  to  welcome  the 
sea-rover  to  their  shores.  The  captain  had  many  timely 
presents  to  express  his  gratification  over — wild  peacock 
to  dine  on,  ostrich  eggs  fresh  for  breakfast,  one  enough 
for  breakfast  for  the  mess;  pheasants  and  quails,  and  a 
superb  bunch  of  ostrich  feathers  (worth  several  hundred 
dollars)  as  a  souvenir  of  his  visit.  We  were  kept  busy, 
notwithstanding  our  other  work,  in  showing  the  Boers, 
and  sometimes  their  families,  over  the  ship,  to  their  great 
pleasure  and  admiration.  When  my  work  was  done  in 
superintending  the  overhauling  of  the  ship  I  took  a  little 
jaunt  and  recreation,  feeling  the  need  of  rest  and  diversion 
for  mind  and  body. 


224  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Having  been  invited  by  one  of  our  young  visitors  (a 
very  prominent  Boer)  to  visit  him  at  his  home  a  few  miles 
distant  and  join  him  in  an  ostrich  hunt,  we  made  our 
preparation  for  the  same.  Leaving  the  ship  early  in  the 
morning,  we  took  horses  and  rode  to  his  farm,  where  we 
found  a  sumptuous  breakfast  awaiting  us.  We  had  no 
idea  such  delicious  dishes  could  be  made  of  the  fish  which 
cling  to  the  rocks  on  these  shores,  the  shells  of  which  we 
had  been  collecting  as  specimens  for  their  great  beauty. 
Everything  was  abundant  and  delightfully  served,  and 
greatly  enjoyed  by  those  who  had  been  three  months  at 
sea,  and  with  appetites  sharpened  by  a  horseback  ride  in 
the  early  morning.  After  breakfast  we  prepared  for  our 
hunt.  Our  friend  and  host  was  greatly  disappointed  that 
we  had  brought  shotguns  instead  of  rifles.  We  thought 
buckshot  would  be  best  to  secure  the  birds,  but  he  told 
us  "that  they  would  have  very  little  effect  on  the  hard 
bones  of  these  enormous  birds."  Four  of  us  got  into 
what  he  termed  his  "African  spring  cart"  (though  we 
failed  to  find  much  spring),  he  taking  the  driver's  seat  and 
driving  four  horses.  We  drove  several  miles,  when  he 
pointed  out  a  little  rising  ground,  where  he  said  he  had 
sometimes  seen  the  birds  feeding.  We  began  our  look- 
out and  in  a  few  minutes  sighted  three  fine  ostriches.  He 
explained  to  us  his  mode  of  approaching  them.  He  drove 
as  if  to  pass  them,  and  made  several  circles  around  the 
birds.  They  took  very  little  notice  of  us,  only  raising 
their  heads  occasionally  to  look  at  us  as  they  fed.  As  our 
circles  drew  in  and  nearer  to  them,  he  stopped  the  cart 
and  told  us  to  get  out,  "as  this  is  a  fine  opportunity  for 
a  shot."  We  quietly  got  out,  took  deliberate  aim  and 
fired — without  ruffling  a  feather!  The  call  to  "heave  to" 
was  disregarded  and  the  majestic  birds  trotted  off,  appar- 
ently in  a  slow  gait,  but  making  such  strides  that  they 
covered  ground  very  rapidly  in  a  straight  line,  and  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach  they  were  going  as  fast  as  a  horse 
could  run !     By  this  time  our  "buck  ague"  began  to  pass 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  225 

off,  and  we  realized  all  the  disappointment  and  chagrin 
of  a  lost  opportunity.  We  consoled  ourselves  with  shoot- 
ing at  some  little  spring-bok  (a  small  deer  peculiar  to 
those  regions),  and  returned  to  a  grand  dinner,  after  which 
we  drove  back  to  the  shore  and  found  our  boat  in  waiting 
to  convey  us  to  our  ship-home.  If  we  could  have  re- 
mained long  enough  our  young  friend  wished  to  give  us 
an  elephant  hunt  and  many  other  pleasures;  but  the  Ala- 
bama like  "time  and  tide  [and  duty]  waits  for  no  man," 
and  work  gotten  through  we  must  ere  long  leave  the 
beautiful  waters  of  Saldanha  Bay. 


15 


Chapter  XIV 

The  creeping  shadow  that  throws  its  gloom  athwart 
the  sunshine  was  in  store  for  us,  and  grim  death  (without 
our  knowing  it)  was  soon  to  look  into  the  face  of  one  of 
our  fine  young  officers  and  claim  him  as  his  own.  Death 
is  at  all  times  a  sad  and  gloomy  thing,  but  when  it  comes — 
dreadful,  accidental  death — in  a  foreign  land,  to  one 
young  and  full  of  all  life's  gladness,  it  is  doubly  saddening 
and  full  of  horror !  We  had  faced  a  great  deal  of  danger, 
but  grim  death  kept  far  away  till  now.  Among  the  last 
of  a  party  of  young  hunters  to  set  out  for  sport  and  enjoy- 
ment on  shore  was  our  third  assistant  engineer,  Cum- 
mings.  The  party  were  just  returning  at  sunset,  when  in 
the  act  of  stepping  into  the  boat  his  loaded  gun  struck 
against  its  side  and  the  load  was  discharged  in  Cummings' 
body  near  the  heart,  and  he  fell  back  dead  upon  the  shore. 
His  friends  and  comrades  lifted  him  tenderly  into  the  boat 
and  brought  him  to  the  ship  to  be  prepared  for  his  inter- 
ment. We  got  permission  to  lay  him  to  his  last  repose  in 
the  family  graveyard  of  a  farmer,  who  promised  that  the 
grave  should  always  be  cared  for,  and  with  ship's  boats 
amounting  to  six  forming  a  procession,  with  funeral  stroke 
and  drooping  flags  we  carried  his  body  ashore.  I  read 
the  beautiful  service  for  the  dead  over  him  from  my 
prayer-book,  and  we  buried  him  and  left  him  to  his  dream- 
less rest,  the  waters  of  Saldanha  Bay  his  ceaseless  dirge 
till  the  morning  of  the  resurrection,  when  the  grave  (like 
the  sea)  "shall  give  up  its  dead !"  His  brother  officers 
raised  a  subscription  among  themselves  to  erect  a  monu- 
ment to  mark  the  spot  where  he  sleeps  the  quiet  sleep  of 
death  in  the  land  of  the  friendly  stranger.  Many  years 
afterwards  I  had  a  call  in  my  office  in  Atlanta  from  an 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  227 

uncle  of  Mr.  Cummings,  and  gave  him  all  these  details, 
which  seemed  to  comfort  and  gratify  him,  and  he  re- 
marked that  he  would  be  so  glad  to  recount  it  to  his 
family,  who  had  mourned  long  and  deeply  for  the  youth 
who  had  so  sadly  passed  away  from  them  in  his  early  man- 
hood. 

While  at  Saldanha  Bay  Captain  Semmes  received  by  a 
little  schooner  that  came  in  from  Cape  Town  several  let- 
ters from  the  merchants  there  welcoming  us  to  the  Colony 
and  offering  to  supply  us  with  anything  we  might  need, 
especially  coals.  Early  in  August  we  got  under  way  for 
Table  Bay.  I  find  an  old  letter  in  the  packet,  which  I 
here  give,  written  at  that  time: 

C.  S.  Str.  Alabama,  At  Sea, 

July  29th,  1863. 
We  are  now  but  forty  miles  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  will 
probably  run  into  Simon's  Bay  to-morrow  to  land  prisoners,  learn  the 
news,  etc.  I  will  take  the  opportunity  of  writing,  hoping  some  wave 
of  good  fortune  may  attend  the  receipt  in  due  time  of  my  occasional 
letters,  this  one  among  them.  My  last  was  written  from  Bahia  two 
months  ago.  It  is  now  over  one  year  since  I  have  heard  from  home. 
We  have  had  no  news  from  the  United  States  since  the  2d  of  May. 
You  can  imagine  our  anxiety  to  learn  the  result  of  the  spring  cam- 
paign ;  how  Fighting  Joe  Hooker  fared  in  his  advance  upon  Richmond ; 
whether  our  army  in  the  West  holds  Tennessee,  and  has  beat  Rosen- 
crans;  indeed,  if  our  arms  throughout  have  been  victorious,  and  con- 
quered a  peace.  If  not,  then  must  this  cruel,  dreadful  war  continue  till 
the  end  of  this  Administration,  when  the  Yankees  may  begin  to  see 
that  the  South  can  never  be  conquered,  and  a  new  President  may  come 
in  on  the  popular  cry  of  peace  measures. 

Simon's  Bay, 

August  1 2th. 
I  began  this  letter  two  weeks  ago,  but  experiencing  a  gale  of  wind 
that  night,  we  put  into  Saldanha  Bay.  Finding  we  could  not  do  all 
the  repairs  necessary,  and  doing  all  that  we  could  effect  within  our- 
selves, we  steamed  to  Cape  Town,  fifty  miles  to  the  southward,  and  had 
the  good  fortune  of  taking  our  fifty-sixth  prize,  the  Sea-Bride,  just  as 
she  was  steering  in  for  the  land  bound  for  the  same  port  as  ourselves. 
We  threw  a  prize  crew  on  board  of  her,  with  orders  to  stand  off  the 


228  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

coast  and  meet  us  at  an  appointed  rendezvous,  and  continued  our  way 
into  the  harbor.  As  we  approached  it  was  wonderful  to  behold  the 
people  congregated  on  shore.  The  hillsides  were  covered  with  an  ex- 
cited populace,  and  no  sooner  was  our  anchor  down  than  hundreds 
crowded  on  board  to  see  the  far-famed  Alabama  and  Captain  Semmes. 
Their  enthusiasm  was  beyond  description,  and  their  hearty  welcome  and 
sympathy  for  our  cause  truly  gratifying.  The  day  following,  from  early 
dawn  "till  dusky  eve,"  was  a  brilliant,  gala  day,  and  our  visitors  can 
only  be  enumerated  by  thousands !  The  two  days  following  bad  wea- 
ther prevented  as  much  visiting  on  board,  yet  a  few  of  the  more  daring 
ones  battled  with  the  winds  and  waves  to  say  they  had  been  on  board 
the  Alabama!  At  daylight  the  next  day  we  got  under  way  and  steamed 
around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  this  Bay,  where  we  anchored  early 
in  the  afternoon  (the  9th),  and  have  been  busy  at  work  ever  since  mak- 
ing the  necessary  repairs ;  so  busy,  indeed,  that  I  have  not  been  able  to 
leave  the  ship,  and  in  consequence  have  declined  many  pressing  invita- 
tions of  the  most  kind  and  complimentary  nature. 

August  13th. 
The  late  news  of  our  glorious  victory  over  Hooker  near  Fredericks- 
burg, and  the  gallant  defense  of  Vicksburg,  is  most  cheering,  and  fills 
our  hearts  with  gratitude  to  God,  and  love  for  our  brave  and  chivalrous 
brothers  of  the  South.  The  death  of  our  good  and  noble  Stonewall 
Jackson  must  have  caused  mourning  throughout  the  land,  but  his  last 
words  teach  us  not  to  be  disconsolate  at  his  loss,  since  it  was  God's  will 
that  he  should  be  taken  from  us !  We  are  looking  hourly  for  the 
steamer  from  England,  which  should  bring  us  news  from  the  United 
States  up  to  the  first  of  July.  No  doubt  important  news  from  Vicks- 
burg, which  place  has  been  so  formidably  attacked  by  General  Grant. 
God  grant  us  victory !  I  wrote  you  all  about  our  putting  into  commis- 
sion as  a  cruiser  a  little  prize  we  took,  naming  her  the  Tuscaloosa. 
Armstrong  is  well,  tell  his  mother,  though  I  hope  she  will  hear  from 
him  at  the  same  time  this  reaches  you. 

The  capture  of  the  Sca-Bridc  caused  a  great  commotion 
at  Cape  Town.  She  was  of  Boston,  from  New  York,  with 
a  cargo  of  provisions  and  notions  for  trading  on  the  east 
coast  of  Africa.  We  sent  an  officer  on  board  to  procure 
the  ship's  papers,  and  bring  on  board  the  Alabama  the 
captain  and  crew,  with  instructions  to  "lay  off  and  on  the 
port"  till  further  communication  with  him.  Just  below 
Table  Mountain,  as  it  sloped  to  the  sea,  the  shores  were 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  229 

covered  with  the  entire  population  of  Cape  Town.  We 
now  steered  for  the  anchorage  in  the  bay.  As  we  started 
for  the  bay  the  crowds  returned  to  the  wharves  in  the  city 
to  secure  boats  for  visiting  our  ship.  No  sooner  had  we 
dropped  anchor  than  the  visitors  began  to  crowd  our 
decks.  The  officers  and  crew  took  delight  in  receiving 
them  and  in  extending  to  them  the  hospitality  of  our  little 
vessel.  Captain  Semmes  sat  in  his  cabin  receiving  the 
ovation  tendered  him  by  an  admiring  populace.  Bartelli, 
his  faithful  and  devoted  steward,  stood  at  the  cabin  door 
and  received  all  visitors  with  laudable  pride.  The  cap- 
tain, with  pen  in  hand,  was  kept  busy  writing  his  auto- 
graph at  the  request  of  his  lady  visitors.  The  following- 
day  was  a  gala  day.  Army  officers  and  their  wives,  all 
the  city  officials  and  their  families  called,  and  we  numbered 
visitors  from  every  class  and  station  in  life.  The  captain 
took  time,  however,  to  arrange  for  the  sale  of  our  prize 
and  cargo  for  one-third  of  her  value.  A  speculative  Eng- 
lishman was  purchaser,  whereupon  we  got  up'  steam  and 
communicated  with  our  prize,  ordering  her  up  the  coast 
to  Angra  Pequena  Bay,  situated  in  the  Hottentot  country, 
beyond  the  limit  of  the  British  possessions. 

We  steamed  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Simon's 
Bay,  the  military  station  of  the  colony,  where  we  found 
Admiral  Sir  Baldwin  Walker's  flagship  and  other  English 
men-of-war.  They  received  us  cordially,  and  we  ex- 
changed many  pleasant  courtesies,  they  inviting  us  to 
dine,  etc.  We  remained  in  port  a  few  days,  and  then  left 
to  join  our  prize  and  conclude  our  sale.  We  found  her 
at  the  place  appointed,  safely  anchored.  We  went  to 
work  to  break  out  the  cargo,  and  took  such  things  as  we 
needed  for  provisioning  our  ship.  The  Sea-Bride  was 
loaded  with  all  the  luxuries  of  the  New  York  market. 
After  satisfying  our  own  needs  we  turned  over  the  remain- 
ing cargo  and  the  ship  to  the  purchaser.  He  transferred 
the  cargo  to  little  coasters,  running  them  into  ports  in  the 
colony,  and  no  doubt  realized  a  good  profit.     The  ship  (as 


230  RECOLLECTIONS  OFj\  NAVAL  LIFE 

we  learned  afterwards)  was  an  elephant  on  his  hands. 
Taking  in  ballast  he  ran  her  around  the  Cape  on  the  east 
coast  of  Africa  and  tried  to  get  clearance  papers  from  Por- 
tuguese ports.  Failing  at  that,  or  to  make  sale  of  the 
ship,  the  last  we  heard  of  her  she  was  seen  as  the  "Flying 
Dutchman"  off  the  Cape.  So  far  as  we  know,  thus  ended 
the  career  of  the  Sea-Bride.  We  returned  to  Simon's 
Bay  and  received  as  warm  a  welcome  as  upon  our  first 
visit. 

Admiral  Sir  Baldwin  Walker  lived  in  comfortable  style 
in  a  neat  cottage  on  the  bay.  He  invited  Captain  Semmes 
and  I  to  dine  with  himself  and  staff.  While  at  table  the 
admiral  informed  Captain  Semmes  that  "if  he  intended 
remaining  any  time  he  had  better  change  his  anchorage 
nearer  the  shore,  to  avoid  any  conflict  with  the  United 
States  Vessel  of  War  Vanderbilt,  as  Captain  Baldwin,  who 
had  dined  with  him  a  few  days  previous,  had  stated  that 
/  he  'was  in  pursuit  of  the  Alabama,  and  did  not  mean  to  fire 
a  shot  at  her,  but  to  run  her  down  and  sink  her!'  '  Cap- 
tain Semmes  quietly  replied  that  "it  would  take  two  to 
play  at  that  game;  that  the  Vanderbilt  had  the  speed,  being 
four  times  as  large  as  the  Alabama,  but  he  could  turn  his 
ship  in  a  very  small  space,  whereas  the  Vanderbilt,  from 
her  great  length,  would  require  much  more  room, — which 
reminded  him  of  the  chase  of  the  greyhound  and  the  hare. 
The  greyhound  was  with  his  great  speed  about  to  over- 
take the  hare,  when  the  hare  would  turn  suddenly  and 
dodge  out  of  the  way,  and  the  greyhound  would  go  tumb- 
ling on,  and  lose  his  game."  Admiral  Walker,  however, 
impressed  upon  Captain  Semmes  that  "this  was  the  sec- 
ond time  the  Alabama  and  Vanderbilt  had  visited  his  port 
within  a  day  or  two  of  each  other,  and  possibly  the  third 
time  they  might  come  into  collision."  After  dinner  we 
joined  the  ladies  of  the  family,  and  found  the  admiral's 
wife  and  daughter  very  charming.  At  a  late  hour  Ave 
took  leave  and  returned  on  board  ship,  whereupon  the 
captain  gave  orders  to  "get  under  way  and  stand  to  sea." 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  231 

The  next  morning  we  were  fifty  miles  from  the  Cape,  and 
continued  under  steam  and  sail  that  day  till  we  struck  the 
"brave  West  winds"  described  so  graphically  by  Commo- 
dore Maury  in  his  "Geography  of  the.  Sea." 

We  now  hoisted  our  propeller,  banked  fires,  and  the 
next  land  we  sighted  was  the  Island  of  Java,  in  the  far 
East,  and  we  never  afterwards  heard  of  the  Vanderbilt  and 
her  various  pursuits  of  us  till  after  our  return  home.  She 
chased  us  very  persistently,  from  all  the  newspaper  ac- 
counts, but  apparently  it  was  a  chase  to  keep  up  appear- 
ances, with  no  intent  to  capture.  We  were  constantly 
hearing  of  her  previous  to  this  time,  a  day  or  two  ahead  of 
us,  or  a  day  or  two  following  after  us,  sometimes  almost 
near  enough  to  see  each  other's  smokestacks,  but  the 
face-to-face  meeting  did  not  come!  I  cannot  say  that 
we  regretted  it,  for  she  was  much  more  than  twice  our 
metal,  and  no  doubt  had  greatly  the  advantage  of  us  in 
speed.  It  was  late  in  September  when  we  left  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  I  think  about  the  25th  of  the  month.  We 
had  a  great  deal  of  trouble  with  our  men  here  about  their 
"liberty  days,"  and  had  to  leave  some  dozen  or  more 
behind  us;  but  having  the  offer  of  some  of  his  "boarders" 
by  a  landlord,  who  was  quite  tired  of  them,  feeling  that 
he  could  not  well  spare  so  many  men,  Captain  Semmes 
began  to  consider  how  he  could  make  good  his  losses  by 
accepting  the  landlord's  offer  of  taking  the  rollicking  gen- 
tlemen on  a  pleasure  trip,  as  passengers  on  board  our 
steamer,  awaiting  a  chance  of  their  offers  of  enlistment. 
We  could  not,  of  course,  enlist  men  in  Her  British  Majes- 
ty's dominions !  We  left  the  Cape  in  a  gale  of  wind,  but 
then  the  Cape  that  divides  the  Eastern  and  Western  world 
is  acknowledged  by  mariners  to  be  a  very  "stormy  point." 

It  took  but  a  few  hours'  run  to  find  ourselves  in  the 
Indian  Ocean.  Our  "gentlemen  boarders,"  when  recov- 
ered from  their  drunken  debauch  and  made  decent  and 
respectable  by  a  deal  of  scrubbing  and  a  call  upon  the 
paymasters'  stores  for  clothing,  made  a  "virtue  of  neces- 


232  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

sity"  and  gave  their  valuable  services  in  return  for  our 
hospitality  and  payment  of  their  bills  at  the  Cape,  and 
some  of  them  proved  very  good  seamen.  In  our  voyage 
to  the  East  (as  contradictory  as  the  terms  may  seem)  we 
struck  the  "brave  West  winds"  again,  had  continual  rain- 
squalls  and  thick  weather,  and  were  often  in  danger;  but 
we  did  not  meet  the  /dreadful  icebergs  which  are  some- 
times in  these  regions  the  terror  of  the  sea.  Nothing  can 
be  more  dangerous  than  to  meet  these  drifts  of  ice,  unless 
it  be  the  avalanches  that  come  down  the  Alps,  burying 
everything  in  their  way.  In  the  year  1856  I  was  asso- 
ciated with  Lieutenant  de  Haven  on  the  coast  survey  of 
Texas.  He  was  an  officer  who  had  been  in  the  famous 
search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  and  party  in  Arctic  waters. 
His  thrilling  narratives  of  danger  and  distress,  his  snow 
or  ice-blind  eyes  and  frost-bitten  hands  and  feet  bearing 
witness  to  the  truth  of  his  assertions,  made  on  me  a  strong 
impression  in  its  sickening  detail  of  suffering!  While  I 
had  volunteered  in  every  service  that  had  even  a  dim  fore- 
shadowing of  a  fight,  the  blood  of  my  Highland  ancestry 
giving  me,  I  freely  acknowledge,  a  love  for  the  same,  I 
frankly  say  I  would  never  have  volunteered  as  an  Arctic 
explorer,  or  chosen  a  death  by  freezing!  But  this  is  a 
digression. 

We  missed  the  icebergs,  but  rode  ahead  of  two  or  three 
threatening  cyclones.  The  constant  entries  in  my  log- 
book (which  I  am  sorry  to  say  found  its  grave  in  the 
Alabama),  I  well  remember,  had  such  entries  as  these: 
"rough  weather,"  "quantities  of  rainfall,"  "furious,  turbu- 
lent winds,"  "meeting  a  ship  would  be  a  bad  thing  for  us 
now;  such  blinding  rains  we  would  run  into  each  other," 
etc.  It  is  astonishing,  the  loneliness  of  the  ocean  as  to 
sails.  In  a  run  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  miles,  as  I  men- 
tioned before,  we  only  sighted  one  sail;  so  in  our  present 
run  of  more  than  four  thousand  miles  we  have  met  but 
three  or  four  ships.  About  the  middle  of  October  we 
passed  the  little  islets  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  but  did 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  233 

not  stop,  as  the  weather  was  very  bad.  We  were  trying 
to  make  the  Straits  of  Suncla,  the  passage  into  the  China 
Seas.  Late  in  October  we  boarded  a  Dutch  ship  from 
Batavia.  They  informed  us  that  the  United  States  Ship 
Wyoming  had  boarded  them  a  little  way  out  of  Batavia. 
As  we  drew  near  the  Straits  of  Sunda  we  fell  in  with  sev- 
eral ships  and  chased  and  boarded  three  English  and  one 
Dutch  ship.  A  day  or  two  later,  while  we  were  giving 
chase  to  two  English  ships,  a  third  ship  hove  in  sight. 
It  was  too  American  to  be  allowed  to  elude  us.  We  fired 
across  her  bow,  and  the  flag  of  the  United  States  went  up, 
our  first  prize  in  East  India  waters.  She  was  the  Amanda, 
from  Boston;  cargo,  sugar  and  hemp.  The  papers  were 
not  satisfactory,  so  we  burned  her,  after  taking  off  neces- 
sary articles  for  our  ship.  We  soon  after  came  to  anchor 
off  the  north  side  of  the  Strait,  a  mile  or  two  from 
Sumatra,  where  we  hoped  to  procure  the  fresh  food 
needed  for  the  good  health  of  our  crew,  for  we  had  been 
a  long  time  at  sea. 


Chapter  XV 

Having  been  warned  of  her  near  vicinity  to  us,  we  tried 
to  keep  "our  weather  eye"  open  for  the  U.  S.  Steamer 
Wyoming.  We  took  the  narrow  and  most  unfrequented 
channel  to  the  Strait,  passing  Stroom  Rock  and  the  small 
garrison  town  of  Anjar.  Our  next  prize  in  these  waters 
was  a  beautiful  new  ship,  Winged  Racer.  She  was  a  New 
Yorker,  of  graceful,  symmetrical  mold,  known  in  the  ship- 
ping world  as  a  "clipper."  She  was  returning  from 
Manila  with  a  cargo  for  New  York  of  coffee,  Manila 
tobacco,  sugar,  jute,  etc.  We  found  just  what  we  wanted, 
and  made  havoc  in  the  coffee,  sugar  and  tobacco.  We 
thought  the  Winged  Racer  too  handsome  a  ship  to  burn, 
but  what  could  we  do?  Our  tenders  were  not  a  success; 
our  only  sale,  the  Sea-Bride,  was  a  failure.  We  could  run 
nothing  into  our  own  ports,  and  to  fire  our  prizes  seemed 
the  only  thing  to  do.  We  made  the  master  of  the 
Winged  Racer  a  present  of  his  boats  and  all  he  could  stow 
in  them,  and  he  took  our  prisoners  of  the  Amanda  and 
proceeded  to  Batavia,  the  little  fleet  of  boats  looking  very 
pretty  as  they  pulled  away.  By  the  lighted  bonfire  of  the 
Winged  Racer  we  steamd  out  of  sight  of  Java  and  Sumatra, 
made  a  little  island  called  Lone  Watcher,  here  meaning 
to  wait  till  daylight  for  further  action.  Scarcely  was  the 
propeller  hoisted  when  "sail  ho !"  rang  out,  and  we  made 
sail  in  chase.  If  the  breeze  had  freshened  at  all  we  would 
have  lost  her,  but  fortune  favored  us  and  the  failure  of 
the  wind  acted  greatly  in  our  favor.  It  made  the  capture 
more  possible  each  moment,  and  finally  complete.  The 
speed  of  the  Alabama  made  her  shorten  sail  and  heave  to. 
The  ship  proved  to  be  the  Contest,  from  Yokohama  for 
New  York,  a  fine  clipper  ship;  cargo,  Japanese  goods, 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  935 

curios,  etc.  Among  other  things  some  elegant  hand- 
carved  ebony  armchairs  that  it  seemed  a  shame  to  burn, 
they  were  so  beautiful.  We  made  the  night  brilliant  with 
her  destructive  conflagration.  We  sighted  and  boarded 
a  great  many  vessels  in  these  waters,  but  American  com- 
merce had  dwindled  into  very  small  dimensions !  The 
sails  were  mostly  Dutch  and  English,  but  Dutch  pre- 
dominated. 

Of  all  the  waters  that  cover  the  face  of  the  earth  none 
are  so  beset  with  dangers  as  the  China  Seas.  The  survey- 
ing expeditions  that  have  been  going  out  to  these  waters 
since  the  time  of  Commodore  Perry's  great  expedition 
have  seemed  to  make  little  headway,  and  with  the  best  of 
modern  charts  to  light  the  ocean  a  ship  stands  in  danger 
during  the  changing  of  the  monsoons,  or  drifting  with  the 
terrible  under-currents  upon  coral  reefs  so  abundant  on 
every  hand,  and  shoals  and  breakers.  Winds,  weather 
and  the  very  elements  conspiring  against  us,  we  now  con- 
sidered it  best  to  make  some  point  to  do  our  necessary 
repairing.  We  were  some  distance  from  Singapore,  so 
made  for  the  small  Island  of  Condore  (claimed  by  the 
French),  a  very  pretty,  fertile  spot.  We  had  availed  our- 
selves of  no  rest  since  leaving  the  Cape,  and  not  having 
much  fear  that  the  Wyoming  would  find  us  in  this  far-away 
harbor,  we  anchored  and  gave  ourselves  up  to  enjoyment 
and  relaxation.  Here  game  and  fish  were  abundant, 
bathing  a  luxury,  and  life  delightful.  Insects,  birds,  rep- 
tiles and  the  celebrated  vampire  bat  were  all  here,  a  deer 
of  small  size,  and  even  a  small  species  of  bison.  Apes, 
too,  abounded,  sufficiently  fearless  and  intelligent-enough 
looking  to  tempt  the  followers  of  Darwin  into  credulity — 
some  looking  old  and  venerable  enough  to  have  been 
patriarchs.  I  think  it  was  on  this  island  that  a  party  of 
our  men  captured  a  lizard  between  three  and  four  feet  in 
length.  The  serpents,  we  were  glad  to  hear,  kept  to  the 
jungles.  I  doubt  if  they  could  have  been  any  more  dan- 
gerous than  the  rattlesnakes  that  inhabit  the  lagoons  and 


236  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

sun  themselves  on  the  savannas  of  our  own  Sea  Islands 
on  the  Southern  coast.  But  one  never  grows  accustomed 
to  rattlesnakes,  or  snakes  of  any  kind,  and  while  the 
mother  of  mankind  in  fearless  innocence  was  beguiled 
into  converse  with  the  Tempter  "in  the  form  of  a  serpent," 
her  descendants  I  have  usually  found  ready  to  give  a  wide 
berth,  with  a  shudder  of  horror,  to  all  serpent  kind. 

The  young  governor  of  the  Island  of  Condore  was  a 
Frenchman  about  five-and-twenty  years  of  age.  He  paid 
us  every  attention,  and  enjoyed  our  visit  as  heartily  as  we 
did.  We  spent  two  weeks  or  more  there,  and  then  turned 
our  heads  in  the  direction  of  Singapore.  We  crossed  the 
Gulf  of  Siam,  and  on  the  19th  of  December  anchored  under 
Palo  Aor,  a  little  island  whose  forests  are  cocoanut  trees 
and  the  inhabitants  Malays.  These  people  were  a  merry, 
careless  set,  who  enjoyed  life  to  its  fullest  extent,  lived  on 
fish  and  fruits,  were  too  near  the  equator  to  care  for  cloth- 
ing, and  gave  no  thought  to  the  morrow.  Simple  chil- 
dren of  Nature,  knowing  nothing  of  civilization,  living 
their  quiet,  happy  island  lives,  with  no  knowledge  or 
thought  of  the  bustling  unrest  of  the  great  world  outside 
the  limit  of  their  horizon.  The  city  of  Singapore,  our 
next  port  of  landing,  is  situated  on  an  island  of  the  same 
name  in  the  Malay  Peninsula,  and  is  the  seat  of  commerce 
in  that  section  of  the  globe.  It  has  100,000  inhabitants, 
and  a  more  motley,  mingled  multitude  of  the  nations  of 
the  earth  could  hardly  be  found  anywhere.  Persians, 
Hindoos,  Javanese,  Chinese,  Japanese,  Malays,  Sumatrans, 
Tartars,  Siamese,  Bornese,  all  mingled  in  the  crowded 
streets,  while  the  shipping — European  and  American — 
made  the  picture  complete.  We  found  here  upwards  of 
twenty  American  vessels  laid  up.  The  destruction  of  the 
Ship  Amanda  ofif  the  Strait  of  Sunda  had  decided  the 
American  East  Indiamejn.  to  get  out  of  harm's  way,  or  at 
least  to  ''lay  up"  until  our  departure  from  the  China  Seas. 

We  were  treated  with  great  consideration  and  hospi- 
tality by  the  people  at  Singapore.     They  were  almost  as 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  287 

glad  to  see  us  and  fete  us  as  the  kind  people  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  had  been.  The  governor  of  the  colony 
at  Singapore  was  a  British  colonel.  We  sent  an  officer  to 
call  upon  him  and  report  our  arrival  and  our  needs.  An 
English  merchant  came  on  board  and  offered  to  supply  us 
with  everything  in  his  line.  Shortly  after  he  urged  Cap- 
tain Semmes  to  make  him  a  visit  (which  he  did)  of  a  day 
or  two  at  his  semi-English  Oriental  home.  It  is  aston- 
ishing how  rich  these  Englishmen  grow  in  the  East,  but 
they  never  lose  their  English  habits  and  tastes,  no  matter 
where  they  locate.  We  had  the  usual  trouble  with  our 
rollicking  tars,  and  half  a  dozen  were  left  behind  at  Singa- 
pore; but  their  places  were  supplied  by  fellows  eager  to 
take  a  trip  with  us  till  such  time  as  they  could  safely  enlist 
without  the  consent  of  Queen  Victoria,  or  with  no  con- 
demnation of  her  Government  for  our  infringement  of 
neutrality. 

The  morning  we  left  Singapore,  when  our  little  ship 
was  sailing  through  the  Strait  of  Malacca,  "sail  ho !"  was 
cried  from  the  mast,  and  an  American-looking  ship  being 
hove  to  showed  us  the  English  colors.  Master's  Mate 
Fulham  was  sent  on  board  to  examine  papers.  The  mas- 
ter was  requested  to  come  on  board  the  Alabama,  but 
refused  point  blank  to  do  so.  Mr.  Fulham  (a  young  Eng- 
lishman himself)  was  very  suspicious  of  the  craft.  When 
he  returned  and  reported  facts,  Captain  Semmes,  for  the 
first  time  in  the  cruise,  resolved  that  he  would  assume  the 
role  of  boarding  officer  under  the  circumstances,  and 
had  rather  an  amusing  experience.  He  soon  satisfied 
himself  that  the  ship  was  American,  if  the  cargo  was  Eng- 
lish, or  purported  to  be.  When  the  master  of  her  saw  the 
gleam  of  decision  fatal  to  his  hope  of  escape  in  Captain 
Semmes's  eagle  eye,  he  began  to  remonstrate,  and  said 
to  him,  "You  hadn't  ought  to  burn  this  ship,"  for  such 
and  such  reasons.  His  phraseology  was  quite  sufficient, 
and  the  doom  of  the  ship  was  sealed.  She  was  freshly 
painted  the  Martaban,  but  a  fortnight  previous  she  had 


238  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

been  the  Texan  Star.  The  master  made  frank  acknowl- 
edgment of  his  change  of  plan;  said  "all  things  were  fair 
in  war,"  and  rather  boasted  of  the  shams  and  ruses  he  had 
used  (so  unsuccessfully)  to  save  the  ship.  We  ran  into 
the  little  town  of  Malacca  to  land  our  prisoners,  or  get 
permission  to  do  so.  It  was  early  morning — the  morning 
of  Christmas  Day.  The  little  town  just  waking  from  its 
sleep,  the  friendly  lighthouse  throwing  its  light  on  our 
deck,  all  reminded  us  of  distant  towns  and  homes  and 
lights  so  far  away ! 

In  a  little  while  boats  came  off  to  us  filled  with  officers 
and  citizens  and  a  few  ladies,  all  urging  us  to  spend  the 
Christmas  Day  with  them.  The  captain  excused  himself, 
saying  "there  is  no  holiday  in  time  of  war,"  and  in  two  or 
three  hours  we  were  on  our  way,  the  only  outward  observ- 
ance of  the  day  being  that  the  crew  "spliced  the  main- 
brace"  in  honor  of  festivities  consequent  upon  the  season. 
The  following  day  the  lookout  called  out  "sail  ho !"  twice 
very  hurriedly  from  the  masthead,  and  our  flag  seemed  to 
strike  two  Yankee  skippers  dumb,  as  they  were  not  polite 
enough  to  show  their  bunting  in  return.  They  were  both 
large  ships,  of  noo  or  1200  tons  burden,  one  named  the 
Highlander,  from  Boston,  the  other  the  Sonora,  also  from 
the  land  of  the  Puritan.  We  gave  them  their  boats,  and 
as  they  were  captured  at  the  western  entrance  to  the 
Strait  of  Malacca  they  found  it  easy  sailing  to  Singapore. 
One  of  the  captains  when  he  reached  our  deck  told  Cap- 
tain Semmes,  with  a  long-drawn  sigh  of  relief,  that  "he 
had  been  trying  to  keep  out  of  his  way  for  nearly  three 
years,  but  now  the  suspense  was  over,  and  he  was  relieved 
that  there  was  no  more  running  to  be  done."  Captain 
Semmes  replied  that  he  "was  very  glad  the  long  search 
was  over." 

The  last  day  of  the  year  we  cleared  the  Sumatra  coast 
and  crossed  to  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  toward  the  Island  of 
Ceylon.  We  doubled  this  island  and  found  ourselves  on 
the  coast  of  Malabar.     The  middle  of  January  we  captured 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  239 

the  Emma  Jane,  of  Maine.  We  took  the  provisions  we 
required  from  her,  transferred  the  crew  and  burned  the 
ship. 

Coasting  eastward  a  short  distance,  we  made  the  little 
Portuguese  town  of  Anjenga  and  came  to  anchor.  There 
were  no  English  in  this  town,  but  a  mixture  of  Portuguese 
and  Hindoo,  the  presiding  official  a  Portuguese.  We 
arranged  to  land  our  prisoners,  and  the  officer  sent  his 
son  to  call  upon  us.  Captain  Semmes  returned  this  call 
of  ceremony  through  one  of  his  lieutenants.  This  officer 
was  so  long  in  returning  that  Captain  Semmes  sent  me 
with  an  armed  boat's  crew  to  rescue  him  in  case  of  danger. 
I  found  it  was  only  a  feast  or  fete  day,  and  all  officials  were 
devoutly  attending  church,  which  delayed  our  officer's 
call  of  civility.  Both  Spaniards  and  Portuguese  are  great 
nations  for  keeping  saints'  days  and  religious  festivals  of 
all  kinds.  They  never  allow  worldly  business  or  secular 
employments  to  interfere  with  their  religious  calendar  of 
saints'  days.  They  seem  as  happy  and  exultant  in  their 
priest-ridden  superstitions  and  idolatry  as  the  Puritans, 
who  turned  their  backs  on  home  and  country  and  sought 
new  lands  with  the  privilege  of  "freedom  to  worship  God" 
in  their  own  way. 

The  conquest  of  India  by  Great  Britain  is  surely  one  of 
the  "special  Providences"  in  which  we  are  taught  to  be- 
lieve, and  the  "Empress  of  India"  has  a  right  to  think  with 
pride  of  her  vast  cotton  fields  that  help  so  largely  to  clothe 
the  world ;  but  dearer  far  must  be  to  her  the  knowledge  of 
the  grand  religious  influences  brought  to  bear  upon  her 
heathen  subjects.  Schools  have  sprung  up  everywhere, 
the  printing  press,  the  railroad,  all  modern  appliances  of 
utility  and  civilization  have  usurped  the  place  formerly 
held  by  despotism.  Now  a  beneficent  Government  is  dis- 
playing the  happy  rule  and  reign  of  justice  and  humanity ! 

Having  coaled  ship  at  Singapore  we  left.  Passing 
through  the  chain  of  islands  adjacent  to  the  Malabar  coast, 
we  stretched  across  the  Arabian  Sea  in  the  direction  of 


240  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

the  eastern  coast  of  Africa.  The  weather  was  perfectly 
delightful.  For  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  we  had  serene 
skies  and  gentle  breezes,  with  scarcely  even  a  change  of 
sail;  and  fleecy,  gauze  clouds,  such  as  make  children  dream 
such  "fairy  dreams"  as  Hans  Christian  Andersen  has  given 
in  his  very  charming  books  to  delight  the  world.  The 
beautiful  dolphin  peopled  the  Arabian  Sea,  passing  near 
the  ship  in  great  schools,  and  some  flying  fish  were  caught 
by  the  sailors.  On  the  last  day  of  January  we  crossed  the 
equator,  and  the  latter  part  of  the  first  week  in  February 
we  made  the  Cormora  Islands,  and  getting  up  steam  ran 
in  and  anchored  at  Johanna.  This  is  quite  a  stopping 
place  for  ships  passing  to  and  from  the  East  Indies  by 
way  of  the  Mozambique  Channel.  Johanna  at  the  time 
of  which  I  write  was  ruled  by  an  Arab,  who  called  himself 
a  Sultan.  The  Sultan  sent  his  commanding  officer  to  call 
upon  us,  and  we  made  contracts  with  him  for  supplies  of 
fresh  meats,  etc. 

We  spent  a  quiet  week  among  the  Johanese,  and  en- 
joyed it,  they  being  very  friendly.  Having  taken  in  fresh 
vegetables,  fruits,  and  plenty  of  beef,  we  got  under  way 
and  turned  our  faces  to  the  southward.  The  lovely 
weather  we  had  in  the  Arabian  Sea  did  not  follow  us  into 
the  Mozambique  Channel,  and  as  we  drew  near  the  south 
of  Madagascar  we  encountered  some  of  the  most  terrific 
rain  squalls  and  thunder  storms  I  have  ever  seen.  The 
lightning  played  about  us  with  wild  fury,  as  though  open- 
ing the  very  heavens  above  us,  and  the  thunder  crashed 
and  rolled  with  deafening  volume  till  it  seemed  as  if  the 
heavens  and  earth,  the  mountains  and  the  deep,  were 
being  broken  into  eternal  dissolution !  It  was  a  relief  to 
leave  the  channel  and  pursue  our  way,  pointing  to  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  "stormy  Cape,"  as  it  is  known 
to  mariners,  might  equal,  but  could  never  surpass,  the 
sublime  glory  of  the  storms  of  such  frequent  occurrence 
in  the  waters  of  the  Mozambique  Channel.  Early  in 
March   we   took   soundings   on    the   dangerous   Agulhas 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  241 

Banks,  where  the  ground  swell  and  the  angry  currents 
seem  to  meet  each  other,  and  the  battling  billows  fight 
themselves  into  fury,  like  contending  armies.  "Men 
who  go  to  sea  in  ships"  can  realize  in  the  wonderful  power 
of  the  elements  the  hand  of  Him  who  guides  and  rules 
the  storm,  and  yet  whose  watchful,  tender  love  "heeds 
even  the  sparrow's  fall." 

After  an  absence  of  six  months  we  found  ourselves 
anchored  at  our  old  cruising  ground  off  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  We  met  as  warm  a  welcome  as  we  had  received 
on  former  visits.  Captain  Semmes  was  very  indignant 
to  find  our  cruiser,  the  Tuscaloosa,  had  been  seized  under 
the  pretext  that  she  was  an  uncondemned  prize  and  not 
a  ship  of  war,  and  that  having  been  brought  into  British 
waters  regardless  of  British  neutrality,  she  should  be 
seized  and  returned  to  her  original  owners.  It  did  not 
consume  much  time  (with  his  legal  knowledge  and  ability) 
for  Captain  Semmes  to  set  matters  right,  and  after  some 
very  spirited  correspondence  with  the  authorities  the  Tus- 
caloosa was  ordered  released  and  turned  over  to  Captain 
Semmes,  or  his  lieutenant  in  charge  of  her.  But  for  this 
useless  detention  our  little  cruiser  would  have  done  effi- 
cient work.  Low  was  an  able  young  officer,  who  had 
George  Sinclair  as  his  first  lieutenant  and  Adolphe  Mar- 
melstein  (who  had  been  a  quartermaster  on  the  Alabama) 
as  second  officer,  and  was  fully  equal  to  his  duty — loyal 
and  true.  By  the  time,  however,  that  the  orders  reached 
the  Cape  we  had  left  that  part  of  the  world,  and  possession 
of  the  Tuscaloosa  was  never  resumed.  Doubtless  she  was 
reclaimed  by  her  owners,  or  the  Federal  Government. 

We  spent  several  days  at  the  Cape  and  there  met  the 
equinoctial  storm  March  20th.  We  had  a  great  influx  of 
visitors,  to  whom  we  tried  to  play  the  part  of  agreeable 
host,  though  we  were  very  busy  all  the  while  coaling  and 
provisioning  ship.  We  received  a  bountiful  supply  of 
newspapers  at  the  Cape,  and  they  were  very  welcome,  for 
we  had  been  cut  off  from  our  part  of  the  world  for  many 

16 


242  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

long  months.     All  news  was  depressing  and  discouraging. 

It  was  very  apparent  that  our  cause  was  daily  growing 

weaker.     We  could  but  see  that  after  the  Battle  of  Gettys- 

I  burg  and  the  surrender  of  Vicksburg  defeat  seemed  to 

\  /    stare  our  struggling  people  in  the  face,  and  with  the  fail- 

v    ing  finances  and  shut-in  ports  ruin  seemed  inevitable! 

By  the  middle  of  April  we  had  reached  the  track  of 
homeward  bound  American  ships  from  the  Pacific.  On 
the  22d  of  April  we  sighted  and  gave  chase  to  a  ship  and 
chased  her  all  night  by  the  light  of  the  moon,  on  a  smooth 
sea.  At  daylight  a  gun  brought  her  to.  She  was  the 
Rockingham,  her  cargo  guano,  from  the  Chincha  Islands, 
bound  for  Cork.  We  made  a  target  of  her  and  then 
burned  her.  Two  or  three  days  later  we  took  the  Tycoon, 
from  New  York  for  San  Francisco,  with  a  valuable  cargo, 
much  of  it  clothing.  We  took  what  we  needed,  got 
plenty  of  newspapers,  dates  a  month  back,  and  burned 
her.  On  the  ist  of  May  we  recrossed  the  equator.  We 
entered  the  Northern  Hemisphere  with  the  usual  amount 
of  calms  and  storms.  The  late  papers  made  us  sick  at 
heart.  There  was  gloom  and  disaster  on  every  hand,  and 
our  poor  Southland  in  her  single-handed  fight  against  the 
world  was  giving  out!  We  passed  through  the  Azores, 
bringing  vividly  to  mind  the  opening  of  our  career,  when 
the  beautiful  290,  fresh  from  her  builders'  hands,  was 
christened  and  received  her  armament,  and  full  of  life  and 
spirit  was  ready  for  the  fray!  Now  worn  and  jaded  offi- 
cers, men  and  ship — what  a  contrast!  We  had  done  val- 
iant work  and  had  nothing  to  regret  in  our  brief  and  bril- 
liant career. 

I  found  from  his  talks  with  me  that  Captain  Semmes 
had  fully  made  up  his  mind  to  seek  rest  and  refitment  of 
ship  in  some  friendly  port  where  we  could  go  into  dock 
and  allow  the  little  ship  that  had  been  our  home  for 
twenty-two  months  to  be  made  anew.  The  mental  strain 
and  excitement  through  which  we  had  lived  was  really 
more  wearing  upon  natural  energy  and  powers  of  mind 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  243 

and  body  than  labor  could  have  been.  We  stretched 
over  from  the  Western  Islands  to  the  coasts  of  Spain  and 
Portugal,  thence  to  the  historic  British  Channel;  on  the 
ioth  of  June  made  Cape  La  Hague,  on  the  French  coast, 
and  a  few  hours  later  were  boarded  by  a  French  pilot,  and 
at  noon  were  anchored  in  the  port  of  Cherbourg.  A  few 
miles  from  these  shores,  later  in  the  month,  the  valiant 
Alabama  was  destined  to  sink  in  mortal  combat,  to  rise 
no  more! 


Chapter  XVI 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Cherbourg  an  officer  was  sent 
on  shore  to  ask  permission  of  the  port  admiral  to  land  our 
prisoners  of  the  two  captured  ships.  This  being  obtained 
without  trouble  or  delay,  Captain  Semmes  went  on  shore 
to  see  to  the  docking  of  the  ship  for  repairs.  Cherbourg 
being  a  naval  station  and  the  dock  belonging  to  the  gov- 
ernment, permission  had  to  be  obtained  of  the  emperor 
before  we  could  do  anything.  The  port  admiral  told  us 
"we  had  better  have  gone  into  Havre,  as  the  government 
might  not  give  permission  for  repairs  to  a  belligerent 
ship."  The  emperor  was  absent  from  Paris  at  some 
watering  place  on  the  coast,  and  would  not  return  for 
some  days.  Here  was  an  impediment  to  our  plans  which 
gave  us  time  for  thought,  and  the  result  of  such  thought 
was  the  unfortunate  combat  between  the  Alabama  and  the 
Kcarsarge.  The  latter  ship  was  lying  at  Flushing  when 
we  entered  Cherbourg.  Two  or  three  days  after  our  ar- 
rival she  steamed  into  the  harbor,  sent  a  boat  on  shore  to 
communicate,  steamed  outside  and  stationed  off  the 
breakwater.  While  Captain  Semmes  had  not  singled  her 
out  as  an  antagonist,  and  would  never  have  done  so  had 
he  known  her  to  be  chain-clad  (an  armored  ship),  he  had 
about  this  time  made  up  his  mind  that  he  would  cease 
fleeing  before  the  foe,  and  meet  an  equal  in  battle  when 
the  opportunity  presented  itself.  Our  cause  was  weaken- 
ing daily,  and  our  ship  so  disabled  it  really  seemed  to  us 
our  work  was  almost  done !  We  might  end  her  career 
gloriously  by  being  victorious  in  battle,  and  defeat  against 
an  equal  foe  we  would  never  have  allowed  ourselves  to 
anticipate. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  246 

As  soon  as  the  Kearsarge  came  into  the  harbor  Captain 
Semmes  sent  for  me  to  come  to  his  cabin,  and  abruptly 
said  to  me :  "Kell,  I  am  going  out  to  fight  the  Kearsarge. 
What  do  you  think  of  it?"  We  then  quietly  talked  it  all 
over.  We  discussed  the  batteries,  especially  the  Kear- 
sarge's  advantage  in  n-inch  guns.  I  reminded  him  of 
our  defective  powder,  how  our  long  cruise  had  deterio- 
rated everything,  as  proven  in  our  target-practice  off  the 
coast  of  Brazil  on  the  Ship  Rockingham,  when  certainly 
every  third  shot  was  a  failure  even  to  explode.  I  saw  his 
mind  was  fully  made  up,  so  I  simply  stated  these  facts  for 
myself.  I  had  always  felt  ready  for  a  fight,  and  I  also 
knew  that  the  brave  young  officers  of  the  ship  would  not 
object,  and  the  men  would  be  not  only  willing,  but 
anxious,  to  meet  the  enemy !  To  all  outward  seeming  the 
disparity  was  not  great  between  the  two  ships,  barring  the 
unknown  (because  concealed)  chain  armor.  The  Kearsarge 
communicated  with  the  authorities  to  request  that  our 
prisoners  be  turned  over  to  them.  Captain  Semmes  made 
an  objection  to  her  increasing  her  crew.  He  addressed 
our  agent,  Mr.  Bonfils,  a  communication  requesting  him 
to  inform  Captain  Winslow,  through  the  United  States 
Consul,  that  "if  he  would  wait  till  the  Alabama  could  coal 
ship  he  would  give  him  battle."  We  began  to  coal  and 
at  the  same  time  to  make  preparation  for  battle.  We 
overhauled  the  magazine  and  shell  rooms,  gun  equip- 
ments, etc. 

The  Kearsarge  was  really  in  the  fullest  sense  of  the  word 
a  man-of-war,  stanch  and  well  built;  the  Alabama  was 
made  for  flight  and  speed  and  was  much  more  lightly  con- 
structed than  her  chosen  antagonist.  The  Alabama  had 
one  more  gun,  but  the  Kearsarge  carried  more  metal  at  a 
broadside.  The  seven  guns  of  the  Kearsarge  were  two 
n-inch  Dahlgrens,  four  32-pounders,  and  one  rifled  28- 
pounder.  The  Alabama's  eight  guns  were  six  32-pound- 
ers, one  8-inch  and  one  rifled  100-pounder.  The  crew  of 
the  Alabama  all  told  was  149  men,  while  that  of  the  Kear- 


246  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

sarge  was  162  men.  By  Saturday  night,  June  18th,  our 
preparations  were  completed.  Captain  Semmes  notified 
the  admiral  of  the  port  that  he  would  be  ready  to  go  out 
and  meet  the  Kearsarge  the  following  morning.  Early 
Sunday  morning  the  admiral  sent  an  officer  to  say  to  us 
that  "the  ironclad  Frigate  Couronne  would  accompany  us 
to  protect  the  neutrality  of  French  waters." 

Many  offered  to  join  us.  William  C.  Whittle,  Jr.,  Grim- 
ball,  and  others;  also  George  Sinclair  and  Adolphe  Mar- 
melstein,  officers  of  the  Tuscaloosa,  and  others  who  were 
in  Paris  came  down  to  join  us,  but  the  French  authorities 
objected,  and  they  were  not  allowed  to  do  so.  Between 
9  and  10  o'clock,  June  19th,  everything  being  in  readiness, 
we  got  under  way  and  proceeded  to  sea.  We  took  the 
western  entrance  of  the  harbor.  The  Couronne  accom- 
panied us,  also  some  French  pilot-boats  and  an  English 
steam  yacht,  the  Deerhound,  owned  by  a  rich  Englishman 
(as  we  afterward  learned),  who,  with  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren, was  enjoying  life  and  leisure  in  his  pleasure  yacht. 
The  walls  and  fortifications  of  the  harbor,  the  heights 
above  the  town,  the  buildings,  everything  that  looked 
seaward,  was  crowded  with  people.  About  seven  miles 
from  the  land  the  Kearsarge  was  quietly  awaiting  our 
arrival. 

Officers  in  uniforms,  men  at  their  best,  Captain  Semmes 
ordered  them  sent  aft,  and  mounting  a  gun-carriage  made 
them  a  brief  address:  "Officers  and  seamen  of  the  Ala- 
bama: You  have  at  length  another  opportunity  to  meet 
the  enemy,  the  first  that  has  presented  to  you  since  you 
sank  the  Hatteras.  In  the  meantime  you  have  been  all 
over  the  world,  and  it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  you 
have  destroyed  and  driven  for  protection  under  neutral 
flags  one-half  of  the  enemy's  commerce,  which  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  war  covered  every  sea.  This  is  an  achieve- 
ment of  which  you  may  well  be  proud,  and  a  grateful 
country  will  not  be  unmindful  of  it.  The  name  of  your 
ship  has  become  a  household  word  wherever  civilization 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  247 

extends.  Shall  that  name  be  tarnished  by  defeat?  [An 
outburst  of  Never!  Never!]  The  thing  is  impossible. 
Remember  that  you  are  in  the  English  Channel,  the 
theatre  of  so  much  of  the  naval  glory  of  our  race.  The 
eyes  of  all  Europe  are  at  this  moment  upon  you !  The 
flag  that  floats  over  you  is  that  of  a  young  Republic  that 
bids  defiance  to  her  enemies,  whenever  and  wherever 
found !  Show  the  world  that  you  know  how  to  uphold  it. 
Go  to  your  quarters !" 

We  now  prepared  our  guns  to  engage  the  enemy  on  our 
starboard  side.  When  within  a  mile  and  a-quarter  he 
wheeled,  presenting  his  starboard  battery  to  us.  We 
opened  on  him  with  solid  shot,  to  which  he  soon  replied, 
and  the  action  became  active.  To  keep  our  respective 
broadsides  bearing  we  were  obliged  to  fight  in  a  circle 
around  a  common  center,  preserving  a  distance  of  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  When  within  distance  of  shell  range 
we  opened  on  him  with  shell.  The  spanker  gaff  was  shot 
away  and  our  ensign  came  down.  We  replaced  it  imme- 
diately at  the  mizzen  masthead.  The  firing  now  became 
very  hot  and  heavy.  Captain  Semmes,  who  was  watch- 
ing the  battle  from  the  horse  block,  called  out  to  me,  "Mr. 
Kell,  our  shell  strike  the  enemy's  side,  doing  little  damage, 
and  fall  off  in  the  water;  try  solid  shot."  From  this  time 
we  alternated  shot  and  shell.  The  battle  lasted  an  hour 
and  ten  minutes.  Captain  Semmes  said  to  me  at  this 
time  (seeing  the  great  apertures  made  in  the  side  of  the 
ship  from  their  n-inch  shell,  and  the  water  rushing  in 
rapidly),  "Mr.  Kell,  as  soon  as  our  head  points  to  the 
French  coast  in  our  circuit  of  action,  shift  your  guns  to 
port  and  make  all  sail  for  the  coast."  This  evolution  was 
beautifully  performed;  righting  the  helm,  hauling  aft  the 
fore-trysail  sheet,  and  pivoting  to  port,  the  action  con- 
tinuing all  the  time  without  cessation, — but  it  was  useless, 
nothing  could  avail  us.  Before  doing  this,  and  pivoting 
the  gun,  it  became  necessary  to  clear  the  deck  of  parts 
of  the  dead  bodies  that  had  been  torn  to  pieces  by  the 


248  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

1 1 -inch  shells  of  the  enemy.  The  captain  of  our  8-inch 
gun  and  most  of  the  gun's  crew  were  killed.  It  became 
necessary  to  take  the  crew  from  young  Anderson's  gun 
to  make  up  the  vacancies,  which  I  did,  and  placed  him 
in  command.  Though  a  mere  youth,  he  managed  it  like 
an  old  veteran.  Going  to  the  hatchway,  I  called  out  to 
Brooks  (one  of  our  efficient  engineers)  to  give  the  ship 
more  steam,  or  we  would  be  whipped.  He  replied  she 
"had  every  inch  of  steam  that  was  safe  to  carry  without 
being  blown  up !"  Young  Matt  O'Brien,  assistant  engi- 
neer, called  out,  "Let  her  have  the  steam;  we  had  better 
blow  her  to  hell  than  to  let  the  Yankees  whip  us !"  The 
chief  engineer  now  came  on  deck  and  reported  "the  fur- 
nace fires  put  out,"  whereupon  Captain  Semmes  ordered 
me  to  go  below  and  "see  how  long  the  ship  could  float." 
I  did  so,  and  returning  said,  "Perhaps  ten  minutes." 
"Then,  sir,"  said  Captain  Semmes,  "cease  firing,  shorten 
sail,  and  haul  down  the  colors.  It  will  never  do  in  this 
nineteenth  century  for  us  to  go  down  and  the  decks  cov- 
ered with  our  gallant  wounded."  This  order  was  promptly 
executed,  after  which  the  Kearsarge  deliberately  fired  into 
us  five  shots !  In  Captain  Winslow's  report  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Navy  he  admits  this,  saying,  "Uncertain 
whether  Captain  Semmes  was  not  making  some  ruse,  the 
Kearsarge  was  stopped." 

Was  this  a  time, — when  disaster,  defeat  and  death 
looked  us  in  the  face, — for  a  ship  to  use  a  ruse,  a  Yankee 
trick?  I  ordered  the  men  to  "stand  to  their  quarters," 
and  they  did  it  heroically;  not  even  flinching,  they  stood 
every  man  to  his  post.  As  soon  as  we  got  the  first  of 
these  shot  I  told  the  quartermaster  to  show  the  white  flag 
from  the  stern.  It  was  done.  Captain  Semmes  said  to 
me,  "Dispatch  an  officer  to  the  Kearsarge  and  ask  that 
they  send  boats  to  save  our  wounded — ours  are  disabled." 
Our  little  dingey  was  not  injured,  so  I  sent  Master's  Mate 
Fulham  with  the  request.  No  boats  coming,  I  had  one 
of  our  quarter  boats  (the  least  damaged  one)  lowered  and 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  249 

had  the  wounded  put  in  her.  Dr.  Gait  came  on  deck  at 
this  time,  and  was  put  in  charge  of  her,  with  orders  to 
take  the  wounded  to  the  Kearsarge.  They  shoved  off  in 
time  to  save  the  wounded.  When  I  went  below  to  inspect 
the  sight  was  appalling!  Assistant  Surgeon  Llewellyn 
was  at  his  post,  but  the  table  and  the  patient  on  it  had 
been  swept  away  from  him  by  an  n-inch  shell,  which 
made  an  aperture  that  was  fast  filling  with  water.  This 
was  the  last  time  I  saw  Dr.  Llewellyn  in  life.  As  I  passed 
the  deck  to  go  down  below  a  stalwart  seaman  with  death's 
signet  on  his  brow  called  to  me.  For  an  instant  I  stood 
beside  him.  He  caught  my  hand  and  kissed  it  with  such 
reverence  and  loyalty, — the  look,  the  act,  it  lingers  in  my 
memory  still !  I  reached  the  deck  and  gave  the  order  for 
"every  man  to  save  himself,  to  jump  overboard  with  a 
spar,  an  oar,  or  a  grating,  and  get  out  of  the  vortex  of 
the  sinking  ship." 

As  soon  as  all  were  overboard  but  Captain  Semmes  and 
I,  his  steward,  Bartelli,  and  two  of  the  men — the  sailmaker, 
Alcott,  and  Michael  Mars — we  began  to  strip  off  all  super- 
fluous clothing  for  our  battle  with  the  waves  for  our  lives. 
Poor,  faithful-hearted  Bartelli,  we  did  not  know  he  could 
not  swim,  or  he  might  have  been  sent  to  shore — he  was 
drowned.  The  men  disrobed  us,  I  to  my  shirt  and 
drawers,  but  Captain  Semmes  kept  on  his  heavy  pants 
and  vest.  We  together  gave  our  swords  to  the  briny  deep 
and  the  ship  we  loved  so  well!  The  sad  farewell  look  at 
the  ship  would  have  wrung  the  stoutest  heart !  The  dead 
were  lying  on  her  decks,  the  surging,  roaring  waters  ris- 
ing through  the  death-wound  in  her  side.  The  ship 
agonizing  like  a  living  thing  and  going  down  in  her  brave 
beauty,  settling  lower  and  lower,  she  sank  fathoms  deep — 
lost  to  all  save  love,  and  fame,  and  memory ! 

After  undressing  with  the  assistance  of  our  men  we 
plunged  into  the  sea.  It  was  a  mass  of  living  heads, 
striving,    struggling,    battling    for    life.      On    the    wild 


250  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

waste  of  waters  there  came  no  boats,  at  first,  from  the 
Kearsarge  to  our  rescue.  Had  victory  struck  them  dumb, 
or  helpless — or  had  it  frozen  the  milk  of  human  kindness 
in  their  veins?  The  water  was  like  ice,  and  after  the  ex- 
citement of  battle  it  seemed  doubly  cold.  I  saw  a  float 
of  empty  shell  boxes  near  me,  and  called  out  to  one  of 
the  men  (an  expert  swimmer)  to  examine  the  float.  He 
said :  "It  is  the  doctor,  sir,  and  he  is  dead."  Poor  Llewel- 
lyn !  Almost  within  sight  of  home,  the  air  blowing 
across  the  channel  from  it  into  the  dead  face  that  had  given 
up  the  struggle  for  life  and  liberty.  I  felt  my  strength 
giving  out,  but  strange  to  say  I  never  thought  of  giving 
up,  though  the  white  caps  were  breaking  wildly  over  my 
head  and  the  sea  foam  from  the  billows  blinding  my  eyes. 
Midshipman  Maffitt  swam  to  my  side  and  said,  "Mr.  Kell, 
you  are  so  exhausted,  take  this  life-preserver"  (endeav- 
oring to  disengage  it).  I  refused,  seeing  in  his  own  pallid 
young  face  that  heroism  had  risen  superior  to  self  or  bodily 
suffering!  But  "what  can  a  man  do  more  than  give  his 
life  for  his  friend?"  The  next  thing  that  I  remember,  a 
voice  called  out,  "Here's  our  first  lieutenant,"  and  I  was 
pulled  into  a  boat,  in  the  stern  sheets  of  which  lay  Captain 
Semmes  as  if  dead.  He  had  received  a  slight  wound  in 
the  hand,  which  with  the  struggle  in  the  water  had  ex- 
hausted his  strength,  long  worn  by  sleeplessness,  anxiety 
and  fatigue.  There  were  several  of  our  crew  in  the  boat. 
In  a  few  moments  we  were  alongside  a  steam  yacht,  which 
received  us  on  her  deck,  and  we  learned  it  was  the  Deer- 
hound,  owned  by  an  English  gentleman,  Mr.  John  Lan- 
caster, who  used  it  for  the  pleasure  of  himself  and  family, 
who  were  with  him  at  this  time,  his  sons  having  preferred 
going  out  with  him  to  witness  the  fight  to  going  to  church 
with  their  mother,  as  he  afterwards  told  us. 

In  looking  about  us  I  saw  two  French  pilot  boats  res- 
cuing the  crew,  and  finally  two  boats  from  the  Kearsarge. 
I  was  much  surprised  to  find  Mr.  Fulham  on  the  Deer- 
hound,  as  I  had  dispatched  him  in  the  little  dingey  to  ask  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  251 

Kearsargc  for  boats  to  save  our  wounded.  Mr.  Fulham 
told  me  that  "our  shot  had  torn  the  casing  from  the  chain 
armor  of  the  Kearsarge,  indenting  the  chain  in  many 
places."  This  now  explained  Captain  Semmes'  observa- 
tion to  me  during  the  battle — "our  shell  strike  the  enemy's 
side  and  fall  into  the  water."  Had  we  been  in  possession 
of  this  knowledge  the  unequal  battle  between  the  Alabama 
and  the  Kearsarge  would  never  have  been  fought,  and  the 
gallant  little  Alabama  have  been  lost  by  an  error.  She 
fought  valiantly  as  long  as  there  was  a  plank  to  stand  upon. 
History  has  failed  to  explain,  unless  there  were  secret 
orders  forbidding  it,  why  the  Kearsarge  did  not  steam 
into  the  midst  of  the  fallen  foe  and  generously  save  life! 
The  Kearsarge  fought  the  battle  beautifully,  but  she  tar- 
nished her  glory  when  she  fired  on  a  fallen  foe  and  made 
no  immediate  effort  to  save  brave  living  men  from  watery 
graves !  Both  heroic  commanders  are  now  gone — before 
the  great  tribunal  where  "the  deeds  done  in  the  body"  are 
to  be  accounted  for  but  history  is  history  and  truth  is 
truth ! 

Mr.  Lancaster  came  to  Captain  Semmes  and  said :  "I 
think  every  man  is  saved,  where  shall  I  land  you?"  He 
replied,  "I  am  under  English  colors;  the  sooner  you  land 
me  on  English  soil  the  better."  The  little  yacht,  under 
a  press  of  steam,  moved  away  for  Southampton.  Our  loss 
was  nine  killed,  twenty-one  wounded  and  ten  drowned. 
That  afternoon,  the  19th  of  June,  we  were  landed  in 
Southampton  and  received  with  every  demonstration  of 
kindness  and  sympathy. 


Chapter  XVII 

I  find  among  my  old  letters  one  written  at  Cherbourg 
on  the  1 6th  of  June,  that  is  not  only  a  contribution  to  his- 
tory, but  an  honest  statement  of  the  sentiment  of  the 
times. 

C.  S.  Str.  Alabama,  Cherbourg,  France, 

June  16th,  1864. 
We  are  on  the  eve  of  going  out  to  engage  the  enemy's  Gunboat 
Kearsage,  now  lying  off  this  harbor.  We  arrived  here  on  the  nth  inst., 
seventy-eight  days  from  Cape  Town.  On  the  passage  we  burned  two 
of  the  enemy's  merchant  vessels — making  fifty-three  that  we  have  de- 
stroyed, released  one,  ransomed  nine,  sold  one,  and  commissioned  one, 
making  our  total  captures  sixty-five  vessels,  including  the  Hatter  OS. 
We  are  now  much  in  want  of  repairs,  and  came  here  for  that  purpose, 
the  captain  immediately  upon  our  arrival  applying  to  have  the  work 
done.  From  the  delay  of  official  correspondence  we  have  been  put  off 
from  day  to  day,  when  the  Kearsarge,  happening  to  be  at  Ostend  and 
hearing  of  our  arrival  here  to  undergo  extensive  repairs,  thought  she 
could  insult  us  with  impunity,  and  came  steaming  into  the  harbor  a 
couple  of  days  ago,  and  has  since  been  laying  off,  communicating  twice 
with  the  shore  by  her  boats.  Captain  Semmes  at  once  determined  to 
give  her  battle,  and  applied  for  permission  to  purchase  coals.  This  at 
first  was  refused,  but  afterwards  granted,  and  we  are  now  taking  them 
in,  and  may  go  out  to-morrow  or  the  day  following.  We  expect  to 
have  a  hard  fight,  for  she  is  fully  our  match,  having  to  our  knowledge 
two  11-inch  guns,  four  32-pounders,  and  1  30-pound  rifle  gun,  with  a 
crew  of  160  men.  She  is  just  out  of  dock  and  in  thorough  order,  while 
we  are  sadly  wanting  in  repairs,  with  a  crew  of  120  men  only — but  they 
are  ready  for  the  fray,  and,  God  willing,  we  hope  to  come  out  victorious ! 

In  the  year  1886  I  was  solicited  by  the  Century  Magazine 
to  contribute  to  their  pages  an  article  on  the  fight,  after- 
wards embodied  in  "Battles  and  Leaders  of  the  Civil  War." 
I  did  so.  Some  years  afterward  I  received  some  letters 
that  had  been  in  the  possession  of  a  relative  that  had  re- 
cently died.     I  copy  a  letter  herewith,  written  a  few  hours 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  253 

after  the  sinking  of  the  Alabama,  which  though  brief  is 
very  graphic. 

Kelway's  Hotel,  Southampton,  Eng., 

June  20th,  1864. 

My  Dear  H :     I  have  just  received  your  telegram  of  J.  H.  A.  & 

Co.  Captain  Semmes  and  Mr.  Smith  are  here  and  much  obliged,  but 
need  no  funds.  We  shall  have  our  money  and  accounts  from  Cher- 
bourg in  a  day  or  two,  which  we  landed  before  coming  out.  We  left 
Cherbourg  at  half-past  nine  yesterday  morning  expressly  to  engage  the 
Kearsargc,  she  laying  off  the  port.  We  began  the  action  a  few  minutes 
before  11  o'clock,  about  nine  miles  distant  from  the  land,  and  had 
sharp  work  of  it  for  an  hour.  We  commenced  the  action  about  one 
mile  distant,  knowing  the  enemy  had  the  advantage  of  us  in  his  11-inch 
guns,  although  we  had  the  advantage  of  range  in  our  100-pound  rifle 
(Blakely)  and  8-inch  solid  shot.  We  at  once  discovered  that  the  enemy 
had  the  speed  of  us  and  chose  his  own  position,  which  was  from  three 
to  five  hundred  yards.  His  11 -inch  shell  had  terrific  effect  upon  us, 
which,  striking  about  the  water-line,  caused  us  to  fill  very  rapidly.  The 
action  lasted  about  one  hour  and  ten  minutes,  during  which  time  we 
had  made  seven  complete  circles.  When  I  found  the  water  gaining  so 
rapidly  upon  us  I  reported  to  Captain  Semmes  that  we  could  not  float 
much  longer,  and  he  ordered  the  course  shaped  for  the  land.  We  made 
what  sail  we  had  available  to  assist  the  engines,  carrying  on  a  running 
fight;  but  the  water  gained  so  rapidly  as  to  put  out  the  fires,  when  the 
engines  stopped,  and  humanity  demanded  that  we  should  haul  down 
the  colors  and  save  the  wounded.  Fortunately,  two  of  our  boats  were 
not  too  much  injured,  and  we  had  time  to  lower  them  and  get  the 
wounded  off  for  the  Kcarsarge,  when  the  ship  commenced  to  settle. 
Then  the  order  was  given  for  every  man  to  take  to  an  oar,  or  spar,  and 
jump  overboard,  which  was  hurriedly  done,  and  the  ship  went  down 
about  twenty  minutes  after  the  colors  were  hauled  down.  We  were  in 
the  water  about  half  an  hour  when  a  boat  from  the  English  Steam 
Yacht  Deerhound,  belonging  to  Mr.  John  Lancaster,  picked  us  up,  took 
us  on  board  and  kindly  treated  us — fifteen  officers  and  about  twenty- 
seven  men — and  steered  away  for  this  port.  We  left  a  French  pilot 
boat  and  two  boats  from  the  Kearsargc  picking  up  the  remainder.  We 
had  nine  men  killed,  twenty  wounded,  and  one  officer — Dr.  Llewellyn — 
and  several  men  drowned.  We  learn  from  the  officers  who  took  the 
sick  and  wounded  alongside  of  the  Kearsarge  that  her  midship  section 
was  completely  protected  by  chain  bighted  from  her  rail  to  the  water's 
edge,  which  was  broken  and  indented  in  many  places  by  our  shot,  but 
did  not  penetrate  her,  so  that  we  were  in  fact  fighting  an  ironclad ! 


254  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

They  also  report  that  she  is  damaged  in  her  upper  works  and  quarter, 
and  was  pumping  and  plugging  up  shot-holes  when  they  were  alongside, 
so  that  it  is  likely  she  will  be  obliged  to  make  some  harbor  near  at 
hand.  If  so,  I  trust  our  officers  and  men  on  board  will  be  paroled. 
Please  return  the  letters  sent  for  my  wife  and  mother  from  Cherbourg, 
as  I  shall  endeavor  to  get  off  to  the  Confederacy  as  soon  as  possible. 
Let  me  hear  from  you.  I  shall  not  be  able  to  see  you  probably  for  a 
week  or  so,  as  I  have  a  number  of  our  men  to  look  after,  besides  set- 
ling  up  our  accounts  before  leaving. 

Affectionately  yours, 

Jno.  McIntosh  Kell. 

I  do  not  mean  in  these  simple  annals  of  my  life  and  work 
to  turn  back  and  try  to  recall  the  feelings  and  sentiments 
of  those  "times  that  tried  men's  souls."  I  believe  I  have 
said  that  I  am  "writing  for  posterity,"  that  those  of  the 
younger  generation  may  know,  and  all  that  come  after 
them  may  know,  the  part  it  was  my  privilege  to  act  in  the 
war  that  left  my  country  desolated  and  myself  penniless, 
with  broken  health  and  broken  spirit  in  middle  life,  and 
without  a  profession.  I  feel  that  the  generation  that  is 
passing  away  (my  own  contemporaries)  are  well  versed 
in  the  history  of  that  time  thirty-odd  years  ago.  That  all 
who  could  read  that  grand  book  of  Admiral  Semmes's, 
"Service  Afloat,"  which  dealt  so  largely  of  law  and  science, 
and  our  deeds,  that  it  seems  presumptuous  for  any  one 
else  to  take  up  his  well-handled  themes  that  left  nothing 
unsaid.  There  may  be  some  of  the  present  generation, 
however,  who  have  not  read  this  book,  and  there  may  be 
friends  of  mine  who  will  take  an  interest  in  my  less  able 
narrative,  so  for  the  pleasure  of  these  friends  and  my  family 
I  have  told  the  story  of  the  cruises  once  again. 

The  press  of  the  world  at  that  time  teemed  with  the 
combat.  The  Yankee  papers,  of  course,  gloated  over  the 
victory, — but  what  had  they  gained?  An  ironclad  had 
sunk  a  wooden  ship,  but  except  the  shot  that  remained  to 
them  unexploded  in  their  sternpost  to  tell  "what  might 
have  been"  but  for  defective  fuses,  etc.,  there  was  no  tro- 
phy !     There  were  many  beautiful  notices  of  the  loss  of 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  255 

the  Alabama  in  the  papers,  a  few  of  which  I  here  insert,  as 
papers  are  perishable  things  and  often  only  kept  on  file  in 
their  own  offices. 

[From  the  London  Times,  June  21st,  1864.] 

Fathoms  deep  in  Norman  waters  lies  the  good  Ship  Alabama,  the 
swift  sea  rover,  just  so  many  tons  of  broken-up  iron  and  wood,  and 
wearing  away  in  the  huge  depository  of  that  genuine  and  original 
marine  store-dealer,  Father  Neptune ! 

Should  any  painter  conceive  a  fantasy  of  the  ocean  akin  to  that  of 
Raffet  in  "Napoleon's  Midnight  Review,"  the  famous  Confederate 
cruiser  would  be  one  of  the  first  ships  that  his  imagination  would  sum- 
mon from  the  depths  of  the  sea,  and  amongst  the  spectral  fleet  of  high- 
beaked  Danish  galleys,  of  antique  Spanish  caravels,  of  bluff  and  burly 
British  three-deckers  and  saucy  British  frigates,  there  would  be  room 
for  this  quick  and  cunning  craft  that  raced  so  swiftly  and  roamed  the 
deep  so  long.  The  waves  wash  to  and  fro  about  her,  as  if  in  mockery 
of  the  dead  mass  that  could  once  almost  outstrip  the  hurricane,  and  the 
fish  swim  in  and  out  of  the  port-holes  and  round  the  muzzles  of  the 
guns  that  will  never  again  burn  powder.  For  yet  a  day  or  so  to  come 
corpses  of  brave  men  killed  in  battle  or  miserably  drowned  will  float 
to  and  fro  on  the  summer  waves — a  strange  and  horrible  sight,  per- 
chance, to  French  fishers  busy  with  their  nets  or  English  yachtmen 
taking  their  pleasure  in  the  Channel.  The  skipper,  a  wounded  man, 
is  safe  on  English  ground,  but  many  of  his  strange  crew  will  nevermore 
tread  a  deck  or  answer  to  the  boatswain's  call.  The  Alabama  could 
have  found  no  more  fitting  grave,  for  she  had  lived  on  the  waters,  their 
child  and  playmate.  She  hailed  from  no  Southern  harbor,  she  was 
warned  off  from  many  a  neutral  port,  and  went  away  to  her  wild  work 
amid  the  loneliness  of  the  watery  waste.  It  was  well,  then,  that  she 
was  not  destined  to  be  laid  up  in  ordinary,  or  daubed  with  dock-yard 
drab  at  Charleston  or  Savannah,  while  idle  gossips  wandered  over  her 
and  talked  glibly  about  her  deeds.  Beaten  in  fair  fight,  she  went  down 
in  the  open  sea,  whilst  her  crew,  leaping  from  the  sinking  ship,  swam 
manfully  for  their  lives.  Her  career  was  a  strange  one.  She  was  an 
outlaw;  men  called  her  a  "corsair,"  and  spoke  of  "Semmes,  the  pirate 
captain"  as  though  he  had  been  some  ruffianly  Blackbeard  sailing  under 
the  black  flag  with  skull  and  cross-bones  for  his  grisly  ensign.  To-day 
we  do  not  care  to  quote  Puffindorff,  Grotius,  or  Wheaton;  we  do  not 
concern  ourselves  with  legal  quibbles ;  we  decline  to  take  a  lawyer's 
view  of  her.  She  was  a  good  ship,  well  handled  and  well  fought,  and 
to  a  nation  of  sailors  that  means  a  great  deal. 


256  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Since  Philip  Brooke  captured  the  Chesapeake  there  has  been  no 
more  chivalric  encounter  between  single  ships  than  that  of  Sunday  last 
off  Cherbourg,  not  far  from  the  old  battleground  of  Cape  La  Hague, 
It  was  a  deliberate  challenge.  The  contest  did  not  take  either  crew  by 
surprise.  Semmes  might  have  stuck  to  Cherbourg  Dock,  or  trusted  to 
speed  for  his  escape,  but  he  resolved  to  fight  it  out.  So  on  a  bright 
June  morning,  whilst  the  French  folks  were  quietly  at  church,  he 
steamed  gallantly  to  sea  and  attacked  his  ready  antagonist.  The  Kear- 
sarge  had  more  men,  carried  heavier  metal  and  was  chain-plated  under 
her  outside  planking.  Of  this  latter  fact  Semmes  is  said  to  have  been 
ignorant.  At  any  rate,  he  knew  that  a  hard  day's  work  was  before  him 
and  he  lost  no  time  in  grappling  with  his  work.  The  story  reads  like  a 
page  from  James's  "Naval  Chronicle,"  but  with  some  new  features 
about  it  that  remind  us  how  much  the  conditions  of  maritime  warfare 
have  changed.  For  instance,  we  see  that  this  was  at  first  an  artillery 
duel  at  long  range,  the  two  steamers  wheeling  round  and  round  as 
falcons  might,  careless  of  the  wind.  Ere  long  they  came  to  closer 
quarters,  whilst  an  English  yacht  cruising  in  the  offing  watched  the 
fight.  Twice  the  Alabama  was  struck  heavily;  the  third  shot  carried 
away  the  blade  of  her  fan,  shattered  a  part  of  her  rudder  and  disabled 
a  gun.  The  water  rushed  into  her  engine-room  and  she  filled  rapidly. 
The  Kcarsarge  also  suffered  severely,  but  it  was  plain  that  the  battle 
was  over,  and  that  the  Alabama  was  about  to  sink.  Not  till  the  very 
muzzles  were  under  water  would  the  Southern  captain  discontinue  the 
action;  even  then  he  disdained  to  surrender,  but  lowering  his  boats  and 
placing  his  wounded  in  them  he  waited  till  the  moment  before  she  sank, 
and  then,  bleeding  as  he  was,  jumped  into  the  sea.  His  gallant  and 
chivalric  enemy  sent  boats  to  save  the  crew  and  claimed  the  assistance 
of  the  English  yacht  in  the  same  charitable  office.  He  enquired  after 
Semmes's  fate  and  was  told  that  he  was  drowned,  but  Semmes  mean- 
while, although  sorely  suffering,  was  safe  in  the  Deerhound,  which  got 
up  steam  and  bore  away  as  swiftly  as  possible.  From  thirty  to  forty 
of  his  comrades  were  killed  or  wounded ;  the  rest  are  either  in  England 
or  prisoners  on  board  the  Federal  Ship. 

So  ends  the  log  of  the  Alabama — a  vessel  of  which  it  may  be  said 
that  nothing  in  her  whole  career  became  her  like  its  close!  Although 
a  legitimate  and  recognized  form  of  hostilities,  the  capture  and  destruc- 
tion of  peaceful  merchantmen  is  one  barbarism  of  war  which  civilized 
society  is  beginning  to  deprecate.  Yet  for  many  reasons  one  can  impute 
no  moral  guilt  to  Semmes.  His  enemy — the  United  States — specially 
and  distinctly  refused  adhesion  to  the  Paris  Declaration  against  priva- 
teering; and  his  own  country,  "Secessia,"  is  the  weaker  in  the  present 
contest.     Possibly  if  he  had  been  cruising  with  letters  of  marque  under 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  257 

ordinary  circumstances,  with  twenty  ports  upon  a  friendly  seaboard 
eager  to  receive  him,  few  would  care  about  his  fate.  It  was  his  peculiar 
fortune  to  keep  the  sea,  almost  alone,  against  a  hostile  navy,  running  the 
gauntlet  of  countless  cruisers  with  no  southern  harbor  of  refuge  under 
his  lee,  and  carrying  on  the  conflict  without  any  of  the  usual  forms  of 
recruitment.  And  well  did  he  fulfil  his  adventurous  duties.  The  Ala- 
bama seemed  ubiquitous.  If  suddenly  on  the  Indian  Ocean  a  red  light 
was  seen  in  the  distance,  and  dim  clouds  of  smoke  rolled  away  before 
the  wind,  men  knew  that  Semmes  was  at  work,  and  was  boarding  and 
burning  some  Yankee  trader  to  the  water's  edge.  American  captains 
homeward  bound  with  a  precious  freight  caught  sight  of  the  strange 
craft  and  rejoiced  that  they  sailed  under  the  Union  Jack  and  not  under 
the  Stars  and  Stripes.  The  Federals  tried  hard  to  catch  her,  for  indeed 
she  and  her  sister  ships  threatened  to  paralyze  their  commerce,  and 
even  underwriters  murmured  when  they  heard  of  cargoes  burned  and 
vessels  destroyed.  She  had  many  a  narrow  escape,  had  often  to  show 
a  clean  pair  of  heels  and  run  for  it,  often  to  change  her  guise,  to  give 
her  sides  a  fresh  coat  of  paint  and  hoist  some  foreign  flag.  In  all  the 
sea  subtlety  and  stratagem  Semmes  was  as  cool  and  crafty  as  even  old 
Francis  Drake  himself,  but  also  like  Drake  he  could  fight  when  fighting 
was  required.  Gradually  men  came  to  think  that  the  Alabama  bore  a 
charmed  life,  that  nothing  could  hurt  her,  that  to  all  purposes  she  was 
like  Vanderdecken's  barque — a  phantom  ship  coming  when  she  listed, 
but  never  to  be  caught.  No  really  mortal  ship,  however,  can  keep  the 
sea  forever,  and  the  two-years'  cruise  began  to  tell  upon  the  Alabama. 
She  was  compelled  to  bear  up  for  some  neutral  port  and  sue  for  leave 
to  repair.  Cherbourg  was  the  selected  port,  and  then  whilst  her  crew 
stretched  their  legs  ashore  up  came  the  Kearsarge  and  waited  obstinately. 
Semmes  might  perchance  have  slipped  out  and  passed  her  at  night,  a 
game  he  has  often  tried  successfully  with  other  cruiserc,  but  he  may 
have  been  somewhat  tired  of  what,  after  all,  was  hardly  the  pleasantest 
work  for  a  gallant  Southern  gentleman,  or,  more  probably,  he  learned 
that  the  watch  on  board  the  enemy  was  too  good.  For  the  last  time, 
then,  the  Alabama  got  up  steam  and  made  sail.  At  a  few  minutes  past 
eleven  she  was  again  in  blue  water,  and  by  one  o'clock,  riddled  with  shot, 
she  had  sunk,  never  again  to  leave  her  spreading  wake  on  the  dancing 
waves.  Beaten  in  fair  but  unequal  combat  by  a  gallant  foe  she  has 
disappeared  from  the  field  of  ocean  to  take  her  place  in  history;  and 
destined  to  singular  luck  even  at  the  very  depth  of  calamity,  the  still 
formidable  Semmes  is  spared  capture  and  sentenced  by  fate  to  nothing 
worse  than  to  be  for  a  time  the  guest  of  England. 

While  the  Kearsarge  was  anchored  off  Tybee  a  few  years 
ago,  Mr.  Stanhope  Sams  interviewed  me  for  an  account  of 
17 


258  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

the  fight.     I  willingly  gave  him  the  narrative,  and  now 
quote  from  his  gifted  and  beautiful  pen: 

While  single  combats  have  not  been  rare  in  naval  wars  there  are  but 
few  instances  of  a  pre-arranged  duel  at  sea,  and  there  is  not  another 
instance  of  such  a  duel  as  was  fought  off  the  coast  of  France  more  than 
twenty-eight  years  ago  between  the  wooden  Confederate  Cruiser  Ala- 
bama and  the  Federal  armored  Ship  Kearsarge.  When  Captain  Laurence 
on  the  blood-stained  deck  of  his  gallant  ship  gave  the  famous  com- 
mand, "don't  give  up  the  ship,"  he  had  gone  out  to  meet  an  equal  foe 
under  like  conditions.  But  when  Admiral  Semmes  and  his  brave 
Executive  left  Cherbourg  harbor  for  the  fatal  duel  in  the  Channel,  they 
went  out  naked  before  a  steel-girt  antagonist !  What  made  the  fight 
still  more  unequal  was  the  fact  that  the  Alabama  did  not  suspect  that 
her  foe  was  sheathed  in  armor.  The  wooden  cruiser  fought  the  Kear- 
sarge as  if  she  had  been  a  wooden  hull  like  herself.  Had  they  known 
these  things  the  departure  from  the  French  harbor  would  have  been  to 
them  but  a  certain  passage  to  martyrdom  upon  the  wave  they  had  so 
often  glorified  by  their  heroic  deeds.  They  went  to  certain  death  as 
cheerfully  as  though  they  were  sweeping  onward  to  accustomed  victory. 
[Then  follows  a  full  account  of  the  fight  already  told.]  Captain  Kell 
remarked :  "The  Kearsarge  was  not  quick  to  assist  our  struggling  crew. 
Her  boats  did  not  come  in  time  to  save  them.  Had  it  not  been  for  the 
help  given  by  the  Deerhound  and  French  boats  many  would  have  sunk. 
I  say  this  with  no  feeling  now,  but  state  the  truth  as  it  ought  to  appear 
in  history.  This  cruelty  sadly  marred  the  gallantry  of  the  fight  made  by 
our  enemy."  Captain  Semmes  took  a  stern  view  of  the  action  of  Cap- 
tain Winslow  of  the  Kearsarge,  he  regarding  it  almost  as  a  meeting 
"under  the  code,"  certainly  one  to  be  governed  by  the  highest  sense  of 
honor  and  courage.  His  enemy,  he  thought,  did  not  act  with  honor  in 
concealing  the  fact  of  her  armor.  Semmes  would  never  have  been 
guilty  of  such  conduct  himself.  He  did  not  imagine  a  soldier  and  a 
gentleman  would  willingly  fight  in  concealed  armor  against  an  unar- 
mored  craft.  But  war  and  its  animosities  are  past.  We  are  concerned 
only  with  the  sad  but  dear  memories  of  the  war,  and  the  justice  and 
truth  of  history.  Whenever  this  story  of  the  Alabama  and  Kearsarge 
is  falsely  told,  as  it  is  almost  always  told  in  our  histories,  it  is  the  duty 
of  a  Southern  man  to  "absent  himself  from  felicity  awhile  to  tell  the 
story"  of  that  daring  ship  which,  for  a  season,  alone  drove  from  the 
seas  the  commerce  of  a  nation  furnished  with  fleets  of  war.  Her  record 
will  be  a  proud  one  in  the  annals  of  American  naval  warfare  in  that  she 
has  contributed  to  the  glories  of  our  history  and  the  most  daring  and 
eventful  career  ever  run  by  a  single  ship  upon  the  seas  of  the  world. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  259 

I  was  very  much  pleased  with  an  editorial  that  appeared 
in  the  Macon  Telegraph  some  years  ago,  and  which  I  gave 
credit  without  really  knowing  the  fact  to  the  pen  of  an 
old  and  valued  friend,  Col.  H.  H.  Jones,  of  the  "Indepen- 
dent State  of  Liberty." 

A  REFLECTION. 

The  New  York  Sun,  after  giving  a  fairly  fair  resume  of  the  fight 
between  the  Kearsarge  and  the  Alabama,  as  gathered  from  recent  pub- 
lications in  the  Century,  says :  "It  is  one  of  the  strange  reflections  on 
this  great  duel,  fought  in  the  presence  of  thousands  of  spectators  who 
lined  the  heights  of  Cherbourg,  that  Winslow  is  perhaps  less  widely 
known  to  fame  to-day  than  Semmes,  though  the  Yankee  vessel  in  an 
hour's  fight  sank  her  renowned  antagonist." 

"Truth  is  stranger  than  fiction,"  and  there  is  no  power  that  can  turn 
or  control  the  natural  impulses  of  the  human  mind.  There  is  no  record 
of  any  service  beyond  the  fight  referred  to  that  should  fix  the  name  and 
fame  of  Captain  Winslow  in  the  popular  mind.  It  even  requires  the 
pens  of  partial  friends  at  this  late  day  to  accord  him  somewhat  ques- 
tionable credit.  There  was  nothing  particularly  skilful  or  exciting  in  the 
manoeuvring  or  fighting  of  the  Alabama  and  the  Kearsarge,  and  acci- 
dent alone  decided  the  result.  The  explanation  of  the  surgeon  of  the 
Kearsarge  as  to  the  firing  on  the  Alabama  after  her  colors  were  struck, 
and  she  was  sinking,  cannot  stand  before  the  simple,  straightforward 
statement  of  Captain  Kell.  If  the  surgeon  had  been  at  his  proper  post 
he  could  not  have  known  anything  of  the  details  of  the  duel. 

The  failure  of  Captain  Winslow  to  save  drowning  men  is  proof  that 
he  had  been  badly  shaken  by  the  fight,  and  that  the  Alabama  did  not 
cease  to  be  an  object  of  fear  until  she  sought  the  bottom  of  the  sea. 
Admiral  Semmes  had  been  a  naval  officer  of  distinguished  service  for 
years.  But  the  cruise  of  the  Alabama  constitutes  one  of  the  great  epi- 
sodes of  the  war,  and  his  own  graphic  pen  has  made  it  for  all  ages  to 
come  one  of  the  most  exciting  "romances  of  the  sea."  He  was  no  more 
a  pirate  than  Robert  E.  Lee  may  be  called  a  brigand.  If  he  had  been 
a  buccaneer  outlawed  by  the  code  of  nations,  Captain  Winslow's  name 
would  last  forever  in  the  memory  of  men  as  the  destroyer  of  a  com- 
mon enemy.  The  world  at  large  does  not  sympathize  with  the  feelings 
of  the  Northern  people  towards  Admiral  Semmes,  and  in  this  may  be 
read  one  of  the  reasons  why  his  name  and  fame  tower  above  those  of 
Captain  Winslow.  The  Confederate  cause  for  political,  commercial 
and  social  reasons  failed  to  secure  the  active  and  practical  sympathy  of 
other  nations,  but  the  respect  and  admiration  of  good  men  of  every 


260  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

civilized  clime  clustered  about  it  and  its  leaders.  Fortune  does  not 
always  favor  the  brave,  and  but  few  niches  in  the  Temple  of  Fame 
might  be  filled  if  they  all  were  reserved  for  victors  in  the  strifes  of  the 
world.  People  remember  and  cherish  the  names  of  brave  and  honorable 
men  who  have  highly  illustrated  these  qualities.  We  present  a  couple 
of  illustrations,  both  in  point,  one  homely,  the  other  heroic.  Every 
American  is  familiar  with  the  name  of  George  Washington.  There  is 
not  one  in  a  thousand  who  can  recall  the  name  of  the  Virginia  carpenter 
who  bested  him  in  a  fisticuff.  Where's  the  schoolboy  who  cannot  tell 
you  how  Leonidas  held  the  pass  of  Thermopylae?  Outside  of  a  college 
professor  or  literateur,  who  cares  to  carry  in  his  memory  the  name  of 
the  Persian  officer  who  led  the  immediate  assault  upon  it?  The  allied 
arms  saved  England  at  Waterloo,  but  the  fame  of  Wellington  has  not 
obscured  that  of  Napoleon. 

Another  tribute  from  the  pen  of  the  gifted  and  lamented 
poet,  Dr.  Frank  O.  Ticknor,  a  native  Georgian,  and  I  will 
to  my  narrative  again: 

THE  SWORD  IN  THE  SEA. 

"The  billows  plunge  like  steeds  that  bear 
The  knights  with  snow-white  crests : 
The  sea  winds  blare — like  bugles  where 
The  Alabama  rests. 

"Old  glories  from  their  splendor-mists 
Salute  with  trump  and  hail 
The  sword  that  held  the  ocean  lists 
Against  the  world  in  mail. 

"And  down  from  England's  storied  hills, 
From  lyric  slopes  of  France, 
The  old  bright  wine  of  valor  fills 
The  chalice  of  romance. 

"For  here  was  Glory's  tourney-field, 
The  till-yard  of  the  Sea — 
The  battle-path  of  kingly  wrath 
And  kinglier  courtesy. 

"And  down  the  deeps,   in  sumless  heaps, 
The  gold,  the  gem,  the  pearl, 
i  In  one  broad  blaze  of  splendor,  belt 

i  Great  England,  like  an  earl. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  261 

"And  there  they  rest,  the  princcliest 
Of  earth's  regalia  gems, 
The  starlight  of  our  Southern  cross — 
The  Sword  of  Raphael  Semmes." 

After  landing  in  Southampton,  Captain  Semmes  and  I 
took  a  suite  of  rooms  at  Kelway's  Hotel,  Queen's  Terrace. 
He  was  very  much  worn  and  jaded.  Disappointment, 
too,  had  naturally  broken  his  brave  spirit,  and  he  was 
greatly  depressed.  He  had  also  been  slightly  wounded 
in  the  hand.  After  attending  to  all  the  business  of  the 
survivors  of  the  lost  ship,  he  accepted  the  kind  invitation 
of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Tremlett  and  made  him  a  visit  at  Belsize 
Park  Parsonage.  This  dear  "rebel  home,"  as  its  inmates 
called  it,  had  made  very  welcome  many  Confederates  of 
renown.  Here  Commodore  Maury  was  specially  beloved, 
and  here  we  all  met  the  best  of  English  society,  and  many 
English  Navy  and  Army  officers  of  note. 

Captain  Semmes  and  I  parted  at  this  dear  English  home 
of  ours,  I  to  make  my  way  into  the  Confederacy  to  my 
family,  and  also  as  bearer  of  dispatches  to  the  Government 
at  Richmond.  Our  English  friends  made  up  a  pleasant 
party  to  take  Captain  Semmes  on  the  continent  for  his 
health.  My  dear  commander,  to  whom  I  had  grown 
greatly  attached  in  these  troublous  times,  was  in  need  of 
rest  and  change,  not  so  much  of  climate  (for  we  had  been 
in  many  climes),  but  change  of  scene  and  change  of 
thought  from  the  heavy  responsibilities  of  his  three  years' 
life  afloat.  I  believe  I  have  told  of  the  interest  Captain 
Semmes  took  in  me  in  my  early  youth — an  abiding  inter- 
est— for  though  I  lost  sight  of  him  and  did  not  meet  him 
for  many  years,  most  of  which  I  spent  on  the  broad  ocean, 
he  kept  me  in  mind,  and  no  sooner  did  he  gain  a  Con- 
federate command  than  he  applied  for  me  as  his  first 
officer.  Our  friendship  was  life-long,  and  I  trust  will  be 
eternal !  In  his  own  words  of  his  little  pleasure  trip,  they 
"landed  at  Ostend,  passed  through  Belgium,  visited  the 
battlefield  of  Waterloo,  spent  a  few  days  at  Spa  for  the 


262  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

waters,  passed  on  to  the  Rhine,  up  that  historic,  beautiful 
river  to  Mayence,  thence  to  the  Swiss  lakes,  resting  at 
Geneva."  Returning  late  in  September,  the  3d  of  October 
the  captain  began  his  journey  home,  determining  to  come 
by  way  of  Mexico  and  Texas  instead  of  making  the  effort 
to  run  the  blockade,  which  had  now  become  quite  a  dan- 
gerous experiment. 

I  sailed  in  the  English  mail  steamer  from  Liverpool, 
bound  for  New  York,  stopping  on  her  way  at  Halifax, 
Nova  Scotia.  Gait  and  I  landed  in  Halifax,  and  while 
we  were  there  the  Roman  Catholic  Vicar-General  paid 
us  the  honor  of  a  call  through  his  chief  of  staff,  and 
invited  us  to  a  handsome  entertainment  given  us  as  rep- 
resentatives of  Captain  Semmes  and  the  South,  he  being 
a  Southern  sympathizer  and  our  commander  a  devoted 
adherent  of  his  church. 

The  following  day  we  sailed  in  the  little  English  mail 
steamer  for  Bermuda,  from  which  point  we  were  to  ven- 
ture on  the  rather  difficult  and  dangerous  task  of  running 
the  blockade.  We  found  the  little  side-wheel  Steamer 
Flamingo  ready  to  sail,  and  took  passage  on  her.  The 
sea  was  smooth,  and  beautifully  adapted  to  our  little  vessel, 
which  only  drew  three  or  four  feet  of  water  and  skimmed 
the  surface  of  the  ocean  like  a  bird.  We  began  the  voyage 
very  well,  but  our  first  experience  at  nearing  shore  was  dis- 
appointing. We  failed  to  make  the  lighthouse,  and  could 
not  ascertain  by  the  bearings  whether  we  were  north  or 
south  of  our  port  of  entry,  and  ran  into  the  shore  almost 
within  touching  distance  and  shaped  our  course  along  it, 
hoping  to  discover  our  whereabouts,  but  failed  to  find  any 
signal.  As  it  was  nearing  three  o'clock  in  the  morning 
we  held  a  consultation  and  decided  it  would  be  more 
prudent  to  stand  off  to  sea  and  get  an  offing  by  day 
break,  for  fear  of  being  shut  in  by  blockaders.  As  the  day 
opened  up  a  little  light  to  us  we  discovered  two  blockaders 
ahead,  and  three  on  our  quarters  We  put  on  all  the 
steam    we    could    carry    and    proceeded    eastward.     The 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  2G3 

blockader  ahead  made  every  exertion  to  cut  us  off  and 
fired  on  us,  but  the  shot  fell  short,  and  we  continued  on 
our  course — fairly  flying — and  soon  our  pursuers  were  out 
of  sight  and  we  greatly  relieved  to  have  made  so  narrow 
an  escape.  About  eight  o'clock  we  got  out  instruments 
to  establish  our  longitude  and  at  twelve  o'clock  we  took 
our  latitude,  placed  our  position  accurately  on  the  chart, 
took  our  bearings  on  Fort  Fisher,  and  as  the  evening  drew 
on  we  got  steam  up  and  drew  in  with  the  land.  Taking 
the  bearings  which  were  then  open  to  us,  we  made  all 
steam  and  passed  in  under  the  very  guns  of  the  blockaders, 
like  a  flash  of  lightning,  and  as  quickly  as  it  takes  to  relate 
it  we  were  safely  anchored  under  the  guns  of  the  fort.  A 
basket  of  champagne  was  at  once  ordered  up  and  a  toast 
to  our  successful  run  was  heartily  quaffed.  The  cause  of 
our  first  missing  our  bearings  was  due  entirely  to  the 
drunkenness  of  the  officers  of  the  steamer.  The  risks  they 
ran  seemed  to  inspire  the  desire  to  get  up  a  little  "Dutch 
courage"  as  occasion  required,  and  came  very  near  pre- 
cipitating us — after  all  our  hair-breadth  escapes — into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy ! 

In  Wilmington  I  met  a  friend  of  the  Anderson  family, 
who  informed  me  of  the  report  that  had  reached  them 
that  their  brave  young  son  had  perished  in  the  fight  off 
Cherbourg,  being  "literally  torn  to  pieces  by  the  explosion 
of  an  u-inch  shell."  I  had  the  great  gratification  of  tele- 
graphing them  of  his  safety,  he  being  one  of  the  last  to 
bid  me  good-bye  in  Liverpool.  He  seemed  to  them  as 
one  given  back  from  the  dead ! 

In  August,  1864,  Macon — my  haven — was  reached  at 
last !  After  an  absence  of  three  years  and  nearly  four 
months  I  found  myself  on  her  kindly  soil,  united  to  my 
wife  and  child.  Death  had  come  in  my  absence,  while 
fighting  the  battles  of  my  country,  and  bereft  us  of  our 
first-born  son,  a  manly,  noble  child  of  six  years,  and  our  one 
lovely  daughter,  a  babe  of  three  years  (I  left  her  three 
months    old).     I    little    feared    at    that  time    that    I    was 


264  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

never  to  see  their  fair,  bright  faces  again !  I  think  it  due 
to  their  memories  (that  have  influenced  my  whole  life 
since  their  early  removal)  that  even  in  this  record  of  my 
public  life  I  tell  the  sacrifice  that  was  required  of  me  on 
the  altar  of  duty  and  patriotism ! 


Chapter  XVIII 

Having  forwarded  my  dispatches,  in  ten  days  I  left  for 
Richmond  to  report  and  see  what  I  could  do  for  the  failing- 
fortunes  of  the  Confederacy.  I  believe  I  have  forgot  to  say 
that  after  the  battle  with  the  Hatteras  I  had  been  promoted 
to  commander,  of  which  I  was  not  made  aware  till  the 
commission  was  nearly  a  year  old,  and  should  not  willingly 
have  left  Captain  Semmes  and  the  Alabama  even  to  take 
a  command.     The  commission  read  as  follows : 

Commander  John  Kell,  C.  S.  A. 

Sir  :  You  are  hereby  informed  that  the  President  has  appointed  you, 
by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate,  a  commander  in  the 
Provisional  Navy  of  the  Confederate  States,  to  rank  from  the  4th  day 
of  October,  1863,  "for  gallant  and  meritorious  conduct  as  First  Lieu- 
tenant and  Executive  Officer  of  the  C.  S.  Steam  Sloops  Sumter  and 
Alabama,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Raphael  Semmes."  You  are 
requested  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  this  appointment. 

S.  R.  Mallory, 
C.  S.  of  America,  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 

Navy  Department,  June  1st,  1864. 

Also  this  very  gratifying  letter : 

Confederate  States  of  America,  Richmond,  Va. 
Commander  Jno.  McIntosh  Kell,  P.  N.  C.  S.,  Macon,  Ga. 

Sir:  Your  letter  of  the  3d  inst,  reporting  your  arrival  at  Wilming- 
ton under  orders  from  Captain  Semmes  to  report  to  the  Secretary  of 
the  Navy,  was  this  day  received.  In  congratulating  you  upon  your 
return  to  your  family  and  home,  I  deem  it  but  just  to  you  to  say  that 
the  arduous  duties  which  you  have  so  long  and  ably  performed  as  the 
Executive  Officer  of  the  Sumter  and  the  Alabama  are  highly  appre- 
ciated by  your  Government,  and  that  they  have  achieved  for  you  proud 
distinction  in  the  naval  service  of  your  country,  with  whose  history 
your  name  will  ever  be  honorably  associated.     In  recognition  of  your 


266  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

"gallant  and  meritorious  services"  I  have  the  pleasure  of  handing  you 
enclosed  a  commission  as  commander  in  the  Provisional  Navy,  by 
direction  of  the  President.     Very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

S.  R.  Mallory,  Sec.  Navy. 
August  8th,  1864. 

I  returned  from  Richmond  for  a  little  longer  leave  of 
absence  with  my  family,  and  in  October  was  ordered  to 
the  command  of  the  new  Ironclad  Richmond,  on  the  James 
River.  In  the  meantime,  with  the  Yankee  raids  through 
the  country,  and  the  threatened  "march  through  Georgia," 
which  was  afterwards  so  effectually  accomplished,  I  took 
my  wife  and  child  and  left  Macon  as  a  "refugee"  for  awhile. 
I  went  to  Commodore  Tatnall,  as  I  passed  through  Savan- 
nah, and  told  him  where  I  would  be,  and  asked  him  to  call 
for  me  if  need  be.  He  said,  sadly,  "Well,  my  son,  it  would 
only  be  to  shoulder  a  musket  and  go  by  my  side.  There 
seems  no  work  for  us  to  do;  the  Navy  has  done  all  it 
could,  and  you  have  done  your  share." 

We  went  to  my  relatives,  the  Mcintosh  family,  in 
Thomas  County,  and  there  spent  three  quiet  weeks.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  I  received  orders  to  "proceed  to  Rich- 
mond without  delay."  I  made  three  efforts  to  get  off, 
without  success.  The  creeks  and  rivers  were  swollen  to 
danger  point,  and  the  railroads  were  cut  or  torn  up  in 
many  places  by  Yankee  raiders.  Finally  I  had  orders 
from  Richmond  to  go  to  Thomasville,  Georgia  (the  near- 
est town)  and  "impress  a  conveyance."  I  found  a  dilapi- 
dated cloth-covered  wagon  there,  which  resembled  the 
old-time  country  "chicken  trading"  wagons.  The  ribs 
across  were  too  low  for  me,  and  I  had  to  push  back  the 
cloth  for  my  head  to  come  through;  but  my  wife  and 
little  son,  John,  Jr.,  and  the  nurse  managed  to  sit  com- 
fortably, and  we  proceeded  from  Thomasville  to  Albany, 
a  journey,  if  I  remember  aright,  of  two  days  and  two 
nights  (camping  out),  to  the  tune  (for  such  a  conveyance !) 
of  five  hundred  dollars !     The  camp  fires  at  night  and  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  267 

very  cool  weather  and  exposure  were  a  novel  experience 
to  the  inmates  of  the  wagon;  but  Southern  women,  even 
of  extreme  youth,  bore  everything  heroically,  and  it  was 
truly  beautiful  to  Avitness  the  patriotism  of  their  exalted 
souls,  that  rose  so  high  above  all  discomfort  or  fatigue; 
that  bore  up  the  hearts  of  fathers,  husbands,  brothers  and 
sons  to  achieve  what  they  did.  The  deeds  of  valor  on 
many  battlefields  were  but  the  reflections  of  the  brave 
hearts  of  women  who  loved  home,  honor  and  country 
better  than  life  itself;  and  my  countrywomen,  though  the 
cause  failed  for  which  you  hoped  and  endured  so  much, 
your  deeds  will  live  in  the  memory  of  the  Confederate  vet- 
eran while  life  lasts,  and  they  will  teach  their  children's 
children  the  reverence  and  love  due  to  Southen  woman- 
hood! 

The  second  night  of  our  "refugeeing  voyage,"  about 
midnight,  a  carriage  drove  up  and  hailed  us,  and  called 
for  me.  It  was  very  startling.  My  wife  roused  first — 
she  thought  the  enemy  were  upon  us,  but  she  answered 
bravely.  Then  the  voice  called  out,  "Uncle  has  sent  me 
for  Cousin  Blanche  and  the  boy;  he  saw  the  orders  pub- 
lished for  Richmond,  and  knew  you  would  go;  he  is  fran- 
tic about  his  children,  and  sent  me  for  them."  We  rested 
the  horses,  and  before  daylight  started  for  Albany  to 
catch  the  earliest  train  for  Macon,  where  we  arrived  safely, 
to  the  relief  and  joy  of  my  wife's  family.  I  had  now  to 
face  the  difficulties  of  a  trip  "on  to  Richmond."  I  find  in 
my  old  letters  the  account  of  it: 

Sparta,  Ga.,  December  25th,  1864. 
I  have  just  arrived  in  a  heavy  rain !  I  had,  however,  a  comfortable 
carriage  with  Mr.  Habersham.  He  returns  to  Milledgeville  to-morrow, 
having  met  his  family  in  an  open  wagon  eight  miles  from  that  town. 
He  kindly  insisted  upon  driving  me  through  to  this  place,  and  in  the 
morning  I  will  take  a  seat  in  the  regular  hack  to  Mayfield,  and  hope  to 
reach  there  by  10  o'clock  to  take  the  cars  to  Augusta,  where  I  shall 
secure  transportation  and  get  on,  I  trust,  without  much  delay  to  Rich- 
mond. Oh !  what  a  gloomy  Christmas  to  us,  and  throughout  our  be- 
loved country ! 


268  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

Richmond,  January  ist,  1865. 
I  cannot  wish  you  a  happy  New  Year.  It  would  be  inconsistent  and 
ironical !  but  I  can  and  do  thank  God  that  you  are  safe  in  your  father's 
house  and  under  his  loving  care.  Here  I  am  with  my  dear  Bob  Minor, 
sharing  his  room  for  the  day  and  night.  Bob  says  he  is  just  realizing, 
now  that  his  eyes  rest  on  me,  that  I  am  really  in  the  Confederacy  at 
last !  My  dear  Bob,  he  will  always  be  a  boy,  but  he  takes  me  back  to 
the  time  when  I  was  a  boy,  too.  Yesterday  I  went  down  the  river  to 
report  to  Flag  Officer  Mitchell,  who  commands  the  Ironclad  Virginia. 
Captain  Roots  has  the  Fredericksburg,  and  I  am  ordered  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Richmond,  which  is  a  fine  vessel.  These  three  ironclads 
compose  the  James  River  Squadron — so  change  your  present  address  to 
me,  and  address  to  the  ship  and  James  River  Squadron.  It  was  a  ter- 
rible day  on  the  water  yesterday — a  heavy,  driving  snow  storm,  and  I 
did  not  get  back  till  7  o'clock.  Shall  be  very  busy  to-morrow,  as  I 
take  command  the  next  day.  I  think  we  will  be  quiet  for  a  while.  The 
obstructions  in  the  river  and  the  great  severity  of  the  weather  prevent 
the  enemy  moving  by  land  or  water,  though  we  are  in  sight  of  the 
Yankee  lines,  and  have  picket  boats  out  every  night.  I  think  Richmond 
is  about  the  securest  spot  in  the  Confederacy  at  present.  The  ships  lay 
about  nine  miles  from  the  city.  I  called  on  Mrs.  Mallory  on  New 
Year's  day.  She  sent  her  love  to  you.  I  also  met  your  friend  Mrs. 
Clay.  Eaneas  Armstrong  is  attached  to  the  Fredericksburg.  I  sent 
his  mother's  letter  to  him.  Richard  is  in  Charleston  at  his  own  request, 
on  torpedo  service. 

C.  S.  Ironclad  Richmond,  January  6th,  1865. 
I  cannot  give  you  a  very  glowing  account  of  my  new  quarters.  I 
had  two  staterooms  knocked  into  one  to  give  me  room.  The  bed  allows 
me  to  turn  over  on  the  mattress  of  sweetened  hay  with  a  few  sticks  in 
it;  this  is  no  disadvantage,  however,  as  I  should  not  sleep  too  sound 
these  "war  times."  I  borrowed  six  yards  of  Macon  factory  cloth  to 
make  the  mattress  from  Colonel  C,  and  it  must  be  returned  on  his  first 
visit  South.  I  have  a  little  pine  table  and  an  attempt  at  a  set  of  drawers 
or  bureau.  I  bought  a  tin  basin  and  pitcher,  and  as  they  cost  me 
eighteen  dollars,  I  grew  economical !  I  have  also  drawn  from  the  ship 
seven  yards  of  double-width  gray  cloth,  and  gave  sixteen  dollars  a  yard 
to  the  government  for  that ;  would  have  paid  double  or  treble  that  price 
if  bought  on  the  market,  and  now  that  I  have  got  the  cloth  it  seems  too 
expensive  to  have  it  made  up,  though  I  should  like  by  doing  so  to  keep 
in  nice  order  the  handsome  uniforms  made  up  in  London — but  enough 
of  myself,  and  now  of  my  ship.  Her  shield  is  covered  with  five  inches 
of  iron  and  she  mounts  four-inch  rifle  guns,  all  in  fine  condition ;  with  a 
crew  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  men,  exclusive  of  officers.     This  morn- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  269 

ing  I  heard  the  Federal  drums  beating  quite  lively  over  the  hills,  but 
they  do  not  seem  disposed  to  make  an  attack  on  our  works  at  present. 
I  believe  I  would  prefer  good  weather  for  a  fight. 

C.  S.  Ironclad  Richmond, 

James  River  Squadron,  January  26th,  1865. 

It  is  a  month  since  I  left  home,  and  I  have  had  no  reply  to  my  first 
letter.  This  may  be  the  first  news  you  have  to  relieve  your  anxiety  in 
regard  to  the  movements  of  our  fleet  down  the  river,  which  move  no 
doubt  reached  you  through  the  papers.  The  object  of  our  expedition, 
I  regret  to  say,  was  not  accomplished,  resulting  from  a  series  of  misfor- 
tunes. The  greatest  of  all  was  getting  on  shore  the  two  most  formidable 
ironclads,  the  Virginia  and  this  ship,  just  above  the  enemy's  obstruc- 
tions and  under  the  fire  of  their  batteries.  They  pelted  us  for  over  six 
hours,  doing  little  or  no  damage  to  this  ship,  but  succeeded  in  cutting 
up  the  Virginia  considerably.  We  were  absent  a  little  over  twenty-four 
hours,  leaving  here  the  evening  of  the  23d  and  returning  here  the  morn- 
ing of  the  25th,  during  which  time  I  was  on  my  feet  day  and  night,  so 
you  can  imagine  my  extreme  fatigue.  God's  mercy  and  your  constant 
prayers  call  for  my  gratitude  in  largest  measure !  The  weather  is  in- 
tensely cold,  ice  forming  in  the  river  in  great  quantities.  How  must 
our  poor  soldiers  suffer  in  the  trenches !  I  have  sad  news  to  give  you, 
which  has  just  reached  me  officially.  Eaneas  Armstrong  was  drowned 
to-night  at  8  o'clock  while  on  picket  duty  down  the  river,  being  run 
over  by  the  flag  of  truce  boat.  I  saw  him  two  hours  before  in  the  com- 
modore's office,  and  looking  so  well.  He  went  to  ask  a  permit  to  go  to 
Richmond  to  see  Richard,  but  the  commodore  told  him  "the  Squadron 
was  under  sailing  orders;"  so  of  course  he  could  not  get  the  permit; 
and  his  brave  young  life  went  out  a  sacrifice  upon  the  altar  of  his  coun- 
try !  The  bleeding  hearts  of  wife  and  mother,  brothers  and  sisters, 
will  surely  find  pity  and  love  from  Him  who  does  not  leave  us  comfort- 
less, for  the  death  of  one  who  dies  nobly,  in  the  path  of  duty  and  of 
right. 

This  is  my  birthday.  Need  I  say  it  has  been  a  sad  birthday  to  me? 
But  one  has  no  right  to  think  of  birthdays  in  such  times ! 

The  report  read  as  follows: 

"C.  S.  Ironclad  Fredericksburg, 

"James  River  Squadron,  January  27th,  1865. 
"Commander  Kell. 

"Sir:  It  becomes  my  painful  duty  to  report,  that  while  the  steam 
Torpedo  Boat  Hornet  was  proceeding  down  the  river  last  night  upon 
her  first  tour  of  picket  duty,  she  was  run  into  and  sunk  by  the  flag  of 
truce  Steamer  William  Allison,  and  First  Lieutenant  Eaneas  Armstrong, 
P.  N.  C.  S.,  was  drowned. 


270  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

"Lieut.  E.  T.  Eggleston,  C.  S.  M.  C,  who  was  in  the  Hornet  at  the 
time,  reports  the  following  facts  in  connection  with  this  sad  affair: 
About  7  p.  M.j  and  just  after  getting  through  the  passage  at  the  ob- 
structions in  Kingsland  Reach,  discovered  the  Allison  coming  up  the 
river.  Lieutenant  Armstrong,  to  avoid  a  collision,  ordered  the  Hornet  to 
be  steered  to  the  south  bank,  and  made  every  effort  to  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  the  approaching  steamer,  but  failed  to  do  so  in  time  and  her 
bow  struck  the  Hornet  just  abaft  the  smokestack,  causing  the  latter  to 
sink  immediately.  All  hands  were  precipitated  into  the  river,  but  all, 
with  the  exception  of  Lieutenant  Armstrong  succeeded  through  the  ex- 
ertions of  the  crew  of  the  Allison  in  reaching  the  steamer  in  safety,  she 
having  stopped  her  engine  just  before  striking.  Lieutenant  Armstrong 
was,  unfortunately,  drifted  by  the  current  so  far  below  the  steamer  that 
no  trace  of  him  could  be  found  after  a  vigilant  search  was  made  for  him 
by  Lieutenant  Eggleston  in  one  of  the  boats  of  the  Allison.  Owing  to 
the  excessive  cold  he  doubtless  soon  became  cramped,  and  in  conse- 
quence sunk  before  aid  could  reach  him.  A  search  was  made  of  the 
south  bank  of  the  river  this  morning  with  a  view  to  the  recovery  of  his 
body,  but  such  was  unsuccessful. 

"The  service  has  thus  been  robbed  of  an  officer  whose  merits  gained 
for  him  an  enviable  reputation ;  and  during  his  service  under  my  com- 
mand in  the  recent  trying  operations  of  our  squadron,  it  gratifies  me  to 
say  as  a  slight  token  of  my  regard  for  his  worth  and  an  humble  tribute 
to  his  memory,  that  he  behaved  with  marked  coolness  and  bravery. 
"Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

"T.  E.  Shepperd, 
"To  Commander  Kell,  "Lieut,  Commanding. 

"C.  S.  Ironclad  Richmond,  James  River  Squadron." 

C.   S.  Ironclad  Richmond, 

James  River  Squadron,  February  ist,  1865. 
I  am  truly  distressed  that  the  mails  fail  to  be  carried  through.  I 
have  written  regularly  three  times  each  week.  On  our  return  from  our 
most  unfortunate  trip  down  the  river  I  made  a  visit  of  twenty-four 
hours  to  the  city.  I  found  Colonel  S.  and  the  baby  all  well  and  spent 
a  long  evening  with  Captain  Semmes.  I  found  him  looking  remarkably 
well.  He  delivered  your  package  and  told  me  of  his  visit  to  you.  The 
Colonel  and  T.  were  very  anxious  for  me  to  remain  and  have  the  cap- 
tain to  dinner  with  us,  but  I  felt  obliged  to  return  on  board  ship,  for  I 
have  a  very  severe  cold,  and  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  drinking  the  James 
River  water  is  affecting  my  health  very  much.  I  went  to  bed  and  took 
some  medicine  the  surgeon  gave  me,  and  hope  to  feel  better  in  a  day  or 
two. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  271 

February  3d. 
Just  received  two  letters  from  you  fifteen  days  on  the  journey.  Had 
just  sent  a  letter  to  you  by  private  hand,  the  mails  seem  so  unreliable. 
Though  I  am  only  nine  miles  from  the  city  I  have  only  been  up  once, 
and  then  on  a  special  visit  to  see  Captain  Semmes.  I  am  glad  to  see 
him  looking  so  improved  in  health  since  we  parted  in  England. 

February  16th. 
Glad  to  hear  you  received  four  letters  from  me  at  once.  You  must 
be  very  anxious  at  the  news  we  have  of  the  road  being  cut  by  Sherman. 
I  send  this  by  private  hand.  I  rejoice  with  you  at  the  mention  of  "gallant 
conduct"  of  your  one  dear  brother.  There  is  a  rumor  to-day  of  Hamp- 
ton defeating  Kirkpatrick,  and  I  hope  the  next  news  will  be  that  Johnson 
has  defeated  Sherman,  upon  which  so  much  depends.  If  Sherman 
marches  victoriously  into  Virginia,  Richmond  must  be  evacuated. 
Every  precaution  has  been  used  for  the  immediate  removal  of  all 
papers  of  the  different  departments  of  the  government,  but  it  is  under- 
stood that  General  Lee  will  hold  the  city  to  the  very  last  moment  that 
prudence  will  admit.  It  will  be  impossible  for  you  to  get  a  package  or 
small  trunk  through  to  me  from  Macon  while  Sherman  holds  Branch- 
ville.  The  weather  is  so  cold  and  the  river  so  frozen  over,  the  steam- 
boats cannot  run.  The  river  water  and  the  intense  cold  together  are 
making  me  ill,  so  being  utterly  disabled  and  unfit  for  duty  I  came  up 
to  spend  a  few  days  with  the  Colonel  and  your  sister,  to  see  if  I  can  get 
better  without  going  into  the  hospital.  I  met  our  old  friend  and 
groomsman  Gailliard.  He  has  just  gotten  twenty  days'  leave  of  absence 
to  go  home  and  get  married  (he  tells  me)  to  the  daughter  of  the 
Member  of  Congress  from  South  Carolina,  Mr.  Ker.  Boyce.  I  told 
him  these  were  very  troublous  times  for  getting  married  in,  but  he  was 
too  radiantly  happy  even  to  regard  an  allusion  to  the  present  times. 
I  suppose  you  have  seen  through  the  press  that  Captain  Semmes  has 
been  made  admiral  (an  honor  richly  deserved)  and  is  to  take  com- 
mand of  the  James  River  Squadron. 

Richmond,  Va.,  March  17th,  1865. 
I  am  still  here  with  your  dear  sister  and  the  Colonel.  They  are  very 
kind  to  me.  The  doctor  forbids  my  return  to  the  ironclad  till  I  have 
quite  recovered.  I  suppose  you  hear  all  sorts  of  rumors  about  the 
evacuation  of  Richmond.  Orders  have  been  given  for  the  removal  of 
the  different  departments ;  the  work-shops,  too,  all  of  which  is  precau- 
tionary. Should  Sherman  be  successful  in  his  march  through  North 
Carolina  it  may  become  necessary  to  give  up  Richmond,  and  our  iron- 
clads will  share  the  same  fate  as  those  off  Charleston,  while  we  fall 


272  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

back  with  the  Army.  Bob  puts  his  horse  at  my  disposal,  so  I  get  a 
nice  ride  on  horseback  every  day,  and  think  I  am  getting  a  little 
stronger.  To-morrow  I  will  go  to  Greensboro,  N.  C,  with  your  sister 
and  the  baby.  It  is  best  for  them  to  be  out  of  Richmond  till  matters 
are  more  settled.  I  do  hope  the  little  change  will  do  me  good  and  that 
I  may  return  in  a  week  or  ten  days  quite  restored  to  my  post  of  duty. 

March  18th. 
Yours  of  the  15th  of  last  month,  which  you  gave  to  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Clement  Clay,  reached  me  to-day,  relieving  me  of  much  anxiety.  They 
did  not  come  further  than  Augusta,  owing  to  the  bad  condition  of  the 
road.  I  have  written  by  every  opportunity  going  south.  So  much 
depends  upon  our  holding  Richmond,— if  that  is  given  up  gunboats  and 
ironclads  must  all  be  destroyed.  The  naval  forces  will  fall  in  with  the 
Army.  Our  Navy  has  been  destroyed  by  piece  meal  by  the  evacuation  of 
first  one  and  then  another  of  our  seaports.  However,  confidence  is 
being  restored  in  our  holding  this  city  within  the  last  few  days.  I  send 
you  in  a  little  package  twenty-four  dollars  in  gold.  It  is  now  worth 
seventy  for  one,  and  is  a  balance  paid  me  upon  rendering  my  account 
of  traveling  expenses  home  from  the  Alabama.  I  send  package  and 
letter  by  one  of  the  Colonel's  clerks  going  direct  to  Macon. 

Danville,  Va.,  March  20th. 
I  am  getting  very  much  discouraged !  I  gain  no  strength  at  all, 
even  with  the  change  and  the  very  desirable  good  weather.  The  news 
is  very  cheering — General  Johnson's  army  victorious  several  times  with 
severe  loss  on  the  enemy's  side.  Mrs.  General  Hardee  and  her 
daughter  are  our  next-door  neighbors,  so  we  get  the  latest  news  by 
telegraph  direct  from  the  General.  Affairs  around  Richmond  in  statu 
quo,  much  depending  on  Johnson's  success.  [Which  hoped-for  success, 
alas,  never  came!] 

No  improvement  in  health  coming  to  me,  of  necessity 
I  gave  up  my  command,  and  on  sick  leave  came  home  to 
Macon,  and  was  in  Macon,  broken  completely  in  health 
and  spirit,  when  news  reached  us  that  General  Lee  had 
surrendered.  The  dreaded  blow  had  fallen !  The  South 
had  fought  the  world  and  might  had  overcome !  When 
news  of  the  armistice  was  carried  out  to  meet  the 
incoming  army  of  General  Wilson  to  Macon  they  at  first 
refused  to  credit  it.  Knowing  that  the  army  was  ap- 
proaching, through  the  advice  of  my  physician,  with  high 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  273 

fever  upon  me,  I  left  Macon,  taking  a  favorite  servant 
with  me,  whose  parents  and  grandparents  had  served  my 
family  for  generations.  I  found  friends  and  a  warm  wel- 
come with  Colonel  P.  M.  Nightengale,  near  Hawkins- 
ville,  he  having  moved  his  family  there  from  the  coast  for 
safety.  They  cared  for  me  as  though  I  were  a  younger 
brother.  The  evening  of  the  day  after  our  arrival  the 
temptation  was  too  great  for  my  servant  Henry,  and  he 
took  "French  leave,"  carrying  off  my  pistol,  a  fine  navy 
revolver,  with  him.  I  forgave  the  departure  more  readily 
than  I  did  the  theft.  I  have  never  seen  him  since,  but  his 
old  grandfather  served  me  fondly  and  faithfully  till  death 
set  him  free  a  few  years  ago,  his  last  hours  made  happy 
and  peaceful  by  the  love  and  care  of  my  family  for  him  in 
old  age,  and  he  died  giving  us  all  his  blessing  and  farewell. 
In  due  time  I  was  paroled  as  a  common  soldier,  and 
passed  through  Macon  to  Spalding  County,  Georgia,  to 
sojourn  with  the  uncle  and  aunt  of  my  wife,  where  (though 
I  did  not  dream  of  it  then)  I  was  to  make  a  home  and 
spend  the  rest  of  my  life.  In  three  weeks  my  wife  and 
little  son  joined  me  in  this  quiet  country  home  for  a  short 
visit.  After  this,  for  a  long  while,  with  broken  health  and 
penniless,  for,  as  Admiral  Semmes  said  of  himself,  like 
him  "I  had  the  honor  to  come  out  of  the  war  without  a 
dollar,  life  seemed  to  me  full  of  chaos  and  destruction. 
I  had  not  the  health  at  the  time  to  seek  to  take  up  my 
profession  or  work  in  another  country.  Many  of  my  friends 
and  brother  officers  went  out  of  the  South— some  to  South 
America,  some  to  Egypt  to  serve  the  Khedive,  quite  a 
colony  took  refuge  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  some  remained 
in  Europe  where  the  collapse  of  the  Confederacy  found 
them.  We  passed  a  quiet  summer.  In  July  a  son  was 
born  to  us,  whom  I  named  for  the  admiral,  his  dear  name 
being  associated  with  my  last  dream  of  glory.  In  the  fall 
of  1865  I  made  up  my  mind  to  start  a  little  farm,  to  "turn 
my  sword  into  a  ploughshare"  and  "sit  in  peace  under  my 
own  vine  and  fig  tree."  The  Confederate  banner  having 
18 


274  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

been  furled  to  live  only  in  the  faithful  hearts  of  the  South- 
land, the  banner  over  me  should  henceforth  be  that  of 
love  and  home.  Next  door  to  our  uncle  and  aunt,  they 
having  given  us  a  double  log  cabin,  and  my  wife's  father 
adding  to  it  and  making  us  very  comfortable,  we  began 
life  anew  as  Spalding  County  farmers,  and  no  palace  ever 
held  such  joy  and  content  as  ours.  We  made  a  fine  vege- 
table garden,  on  which  I  took  several  prizes  the  following 
spring  at  the  "Middle  Georgia  Fair."  Our  flowers  were 
the  admiration  of  all  beholders.  For  a  year  or  two  I 
refrained  from  reading  the  newspapers,  unless  something 
special  was  brought  to  my  notice,  but  I  took  a  number 
of  agricultural  journals,  the  Southern  Cultivator  and  Mary- 
land Farmer  specially.  I  tried  to  be  practical,  but  having 
no  experience,  my  neighbors  often  laughed  at  my  theories 
and  book-learning,  though  I  sometimes  astonished  them 
in  a  race  for  success.  I  only  knew  by  hearsay  who  was 
President  or  governor,  and  my  wife  and  the  two  -happy 
little  boys  forgot  all  city  ways  and  fashions.  As  I  look 
back  upon  those  days  they  seem  to  have  been  very  happy, 
except  that  my  restoration  to  health  was  very  slow;  and 
the  loss  of  health  will  mar  the  happiest  surroundings. 

In  the  winter  of  1865  Captain  Semmes  was  arrested — I 
think  it  was  on  the  15th  of  December;  Mr.  Davis  was  in 
prison;  General  Lee  had  an  indictment  of  treason  against 
him,  and  but  for  the  interference  of  General  Grant  would 
no  doubt  have  been  tried;  Wirtz,  the  commandant  of  the 
Southern  prison,  though  a  paroled  prisoner,  had  met 
death  by  execution;  Madame  Surratt,  an  innocent  woman 
charged  with  being  an  accomplice  in  the  assassination  of 
Mr.  Lincoln,  had  been  hung;  Mr.  Clement  Clay  suffered 
imprisonment,  though  guilty  of  nothing  more  than  being 
a  Confederate  Cabinet  officer,  so  the  arrest  and  imprison- 
ment of  Captain  Semmes  assumed  a  very  serious  aspect. 
A  squad  of  soldiers  took  him  from  his  home  in  Mobile 
to  Washington,  where  he  was  kept  a  close  prisoner  for 
four  months.     Out  of  this  dilemma  he  helped  himself  in 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  275 

his  able  and  powerful  defense,  which  was  of  course  the 
theme  of  the  daily  press  at  the  time.  His  appeal  to  the 
Chief  Executive  closes  with  these  words: 

I  have  thus  laid  before  you  tediously,  I  fear,  yet  as  concisely  as  is 
consistent  with  clearness,  the  grounds  upon  which  I  claim  at  your 
hands,  who  are  the  custodian  of  the  honor  of  a  great  nation,  my  dis- 
charge from  arrest  and  imprisonment.  I  have  spoken  freely  and 
frankly  as  it  became  an  American  citizen  to  speak  to  the  Chief  Magis- 
trate of  the  American  Republic.  We  live  in  times  of  high  party 
excitement  when  men,  unfortunately,  are  too  prone  to  take  counsel  of 
their  passions ;  but  passions  die  and  men  die  with  them,  but  after  death 
comes  history !  In  the  future,  Mr.  President,  when  America  shall  have 
a  history,  my  record  and  that  of  the  gallant  Southern  people  will  be 
engrafted  upon,  and  become  part  of,  your  history,  the  pages  of  which 
you  are  now  acting,  and  the  prayer  of  this  petition  is  that  you  will  not 
allow  the  honor  of  the  American  name  to  be  tarnished  by  a  perfidy  on 
those  pages.  In  this  paper  I  have  stood  strictly  on  legal  defenses,  but 
should  those  barriers  be  beaten  down,  conscious  of  the  rectitude  of  my 
conduct  throughout  a  checkered  and  eventful  career,  when  the  com- 
merce of  half  a  world  was  at  my  mercy  and  when  the  passions  of  men 
North  and  South  were  tossed  into  a  whirlwind  by  the  current  events  of 
the  most  bloody  and  terrific  war  that  the  human  race  has  ever  seen,  I 
shall  hope  to  justify  and  defend  myself  against  any  and  all  charges 
affecting  the  honor  and  reputation  of  a  man  and  a  soldier.  Whatever  else 
may  be  said  of  me,  I  have  at  least  brought  no  discredit  upon  the  Amer- 
ican name  and  character. 

I  am,  respectfully,  etc., 

Raphael  Semmes. 

Washington  City,  January  15th,  1866. 

I  believe  the  alleged  object  of  the  arrest  of  the  admiral 
was  "his  illegal  escape  off  Cherbourg  harbor,"  with  added 
charges  of  "cruelty  to  prisoners,"  etc.  As  soon  as  he 
got  to  Washington  (or  very  soon  after)  he  wrote  to  ask 
me  to  hold  myself  in  readiness  to  come  to  him  at  any 
day,  which  I  did  not  need  to  be  asked  to  do;  but  his  case 
never  came  to  trial — his  able  self-defense  proved  suffi- 
cient. 

It  was  the  cause,  however,  of  my  losing  a  very  valuable 
correspondence — many   of  the   admiral's   letters,    several 


276  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

from  Commodore  Tatnall,  and  very  many  from  my 
brother  Navy  officers.  Thinking  it  safest  in  those  troublous 
times,  I  made  a  large  package  of  them  and  let  them  down 
by  a  cord  between  the  wooden  walls  of  the  farmhouse  in 
which  I  was  then  living,  waiting  for  our  log  castle  to  be 
finished.  The  following  spring  or  summer,  when  I  went 
to  liberate  my  valued  correspondence  from  its  conceal- 
ment, the  enemies  of  man — mice  or  rats — had  cut  the 
cord,  and  upon  removing  the  plank  where  they  had  fallen 
I  found  my  letters  in  mincemeat !  A  ruin  of  great  and 
beautiful  thoughts  and  sentiments,  a  noting  of  deeds 
grand  and  heroic,  so  much  that  would  have  been  a  pre- 
cious heirloom  to  my  children. 

A  few  years  after  the  war  my  dear  senior  officer  hon- 
ored my  humble  domicile  by  a  visit  of  some  days.  Meet- 
ing my  wife  at  the  door  he  took  both  her  hands  in  his 
and  said:  "How  safely  you  have  anchored  my  friend  Kell; 
I  am  glad  to  have  a  welcome  in  his  port."  She  smilingly 
presented  the  children,  saying,  "These  are  the  anchors, 
Admiral."  Our  manly  boy  John,  Jr.,  came  to  him;  then 
his  little  namesake,  who  from  that  time  during  his  visit 
took  a  seat  as  of  right  on  his  knees,  and  then  our  baby 
girl  Marjory  had  her  full  share  of  his  caresses.  He  took 
a  deep  interest  in  all  around  me,  and  said,  "Kell,  you  must 
plaster  this  house,"  which  I  afterward  did,  at  least  a  part 
of  it.  My  wife  told  him  she  "would  give  him  leave  to  lec- 
ture me  on  my  sectional  pride  and  prejudice;  that  she 
thought  him  an  example  to  me  of  conservatism,"  etc.  He 
replied,  very  gently,  "He  has  fifteen  years  (or  more)  longer 
to  live  to  feel  as  I  do;  I  am  at  least  fifteen  years  his  senior. 
Give  him  that  long  to  grow  reconciled  to  things  as  they 
are."  During  the  visit  we  discussed  the  past  a  great  deal, 
and  on  one  occasion  the  old  Confederate  scrap-book  was 
brought  out,  containing  many  pictures  from  the  English 
papers  of  the  Alabama's  cruise,  officers  and  career.  My 
picture  being  first,  my  wife  said,  apologetically,  "Admiral, 
you  will  easily  see  who  is  the  hero  of  the  ship  to  me."    He 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  277 

smiled  and  said,  "And  so  he  is  to  me  my  right  hand,  and 
I  knew  he  would  be  ready  when  I  called  him."  That  he 
should  have  been  satisfied  that  I  had  done  my  duty  was 
very  dear  praise  to  me,  and  I  here  record  it,  not  from 
vainglorious  pride,  but  the  desire  that  my  posterity  may 
know  that  I  did  my  duty.  Though  Captain  Semmes  lived 
several  years  after  this  I  never  saw  him  again;  but  his 
pleasant,  cheerful  letters  came  sometimes  to  brighten  us, 
specially  to  his  little  namesake  and  godson,  in  whom  he 
showed  an  abiding  interest  as  long  as  he  lived. 

Of  the  many  fine  tributes  to  the  bravery  of  Captain 
Semmes  and  his  ship  I  have  seen  none  finer  than  the  fol- 
lowing, sent  to  me  by  Armstrong,  our  second  officer — 
and,  as  he  remarks,  it  is  the  tribute  of  an  enemy ! 

[From  the  Toronto  Leader,  July  8th,  1864.] 

BRAVERY   OF   CAPTAIN    SEMMES. 
[From  the  New  York  News.} 

The  Alabama  cannot  be  captured.  No  beam  or  plan  or  spar  or  rope 
or  sail  of  the  far-famed  sea-rover  will  ever  be  a  trophy  in  the  hands  of 
her  enemies.  The  ocean  that  has  been  the  scene  of  her  career  protects 
her  now  forever!  She  seemed  fated  to  battle  and  defy  in  disaster  as 
well  as  in  success.  There  is  sometimes  glory  in  misfortune  and  tri- 
umph in  defeat.  The  words  of  the  dying  Laurence  urging  resistance 
against  hope  are  more  memorable  than  the  records  of  his  victories. 
The  fate  of  the  Alabama  will  be  a  theme  for  admiration  with  friend  and 
foe,  and  we  venture  to  prophesy  that  many  a  pen  that  has  been  active 
in  denouncing  her  career  will  acknowledge  a  certain  sublimity  in  its 
close.  The  commercial  welfare  and  the  naval  reputation  of  the  North 
are  certainly  most  beholden  to  the  commander  of  the  Kearsarge  and  his 
subordinates  for  their  successful  efforts  to  destroy  this  formidable 
enemy,  but  they  have  "scotched  the  snake,  not  killed  it."  All  accounts 
state  that  the  Alabama  had  suffered  severely  by  the  wear  and  tear  of 
her  active  existence.  She  had  lost  much  of  her  capacity  for  mischief 
and  her  speed  was  reduced,  and  she  was  in  fact  worn  out  with  hard 
service  and  in  absolute  need  of  such  repairs  as  no  neutral  port  would 
furnish.  It  was  the  indomitable  spirit,  the  untiring  zeal,  and  the  splen- 
did management  of  Captain  Semmes  that  still  rendered  her  formidable. 
That  spirit,  that  zeal,  and  that  capacity  for  management  are  yet  in  the 
service  of  the  Confederacy.     The  happy  star  of  Semmes  watched  over 


278  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

him  after  the  last  plank  sank  beneath  him.  He,  too,  escaped  capture. 
The  romantic  attributes  of  the  fight  off  Cherbourg  harbor,  and  its  thrill- 
ing denouement,  will  but  serve  to  add  to  his  renown  and  popularity  with 
friends  of  the  South.  There  is  more  eclat  attached  to  his  name  by  the 
circumstances  of  his  defeat  than  by  the  long  list  of  his  successes.  A 
public  dinner  was  tendered  him  immediately  upon  his  arrival  at  South- 
hampton after  the  engagement.  Captain  Semmes  will  be  lionized,  feted 
and  encouraged.  We  doubt  not  that  before  long  a  second  Alabama  will 
be  at  his  command.  Meanwhile  her  commander  has  lost  no  prestige. 
He  has  sacrificed  perhaps  a  little  of  his  reputation  for  sagacity  in  risk- 
ing an  encounter  with  an  opponent  far  his  superior  in  speed,  armament 
and  strength  of  build,  but  human  nature  is  more  apt  to  sympathize  with 
reckless  daring  than  to  condemn  it.  He  has  saved  a  handful  of  his  men, 
who  will  serve  as  a  nucleus  for  another  crew,  and  there  will  be  no  lack 
of  adventurous  characters  ready  to  serve  the  man  who  fought  his  ship 
till  her  guns  were  under  water  and  then  committed  her  to  old  Nep- 
tune's eternal  embrace,  leaving  no  vestige  behind  but  the  record  of  her 
deeds. 

[From  the  South  Atlantic  Magazine,  November,   1877.] 

CAPTAIN   JOHN   N.    MAFFITT,   ON   LIFE  AND   SERVICES   OF  RAPHAEL   SEMMES. 

On  the  29th  day  of  August  last  the  startling  intelligence  was  an- 
nounced by  telegraph  that  Admiral  Semmes,  the  Bayard  of  the  late  Con- 
federate Navy,  had  calmly  "welcomed  the  peaceful  night  of  long  repose" 
and  ceased  to  be  numbered  among  the  living.  This  sad  annunciation 
affected  every  Southern  heart  with  melancholy  and  grief,  intensified  as 
memory's  panoramic  review  of  past  events  pictured  to  the  mind's  eye 
the  battle  and  the  storm,  the  daring  seaman  and  incomparable  Viking 
of  the  ocean.  Raphael  Semmes  was  born  in  Charles  County,  Maryland, 
on  the  27th  day  of  September,  1809.  At  the  age  of  sixteen  was  ap- 
pointed midshipman  by  President  John  Quincy  Adams.  In  October, 
1826,  on  the  Sloop  of  War  Lexington,  sailed  from  New  York  for  Port 
Spain,  Island  of  Trinidad,  to  convey  to  the  United  States  the  remains 
of  the  lamented  Commodore  Oliver  H.  Perry,  the  hero  of  Lake  Erie, 
who,  while  attending  to  important  diplomatic  duties,  died  of  yellow  fever 
in  the  town  of  Angostura,  on  the  Orinoco  River,  August,  1819. 

The  young  midshipman  from  the  time  of  entering  the  Navy  was  re- 
markable for  studiousness.  The  board  of  examiners  awarded  him  the 
first  honors  of  his  class.  His  active  mind  was  never  "off  duty."  While 
a  passed  midshipman  on  leave  of  absence  he  entered  the  office  of  his 
brother,  a  distinguished  lawyer,  and  began  with  avidity  the  study  of 
law.     At  the  conclusion  of  the  Mexican  War   (in  which  he  took  an 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  279 

active  part)  he  was  ordered  to  command  the  Ordnance  Transport 
Electra.  He  occasionally  practiced  at  the  har.  In  1858  he  was  ordered 
to  Washington  city  to  assume  the  position  of  Secretary  to  the  Light- 
house Board,  upon  which  duty  he  remained  until  February,  1861,  when, 
following  the  fortunes  of  his  adopted  State,  Alabama,  he  severed  his 
connection  with  the  United  States  Government.  Raphael  Semmes  for 
thirty-five  years  in  the  United  States  Navy  had  enjoyed  an  unblemished 
reputation  as  an  officer  and  high-toned  gentleman.  His  attainments 
were  of  the  highest  order,  not  only  professionally,  but  also  from  a 
scientific  and  literary  point  of  view.  Later,  he  developed  his  master 
genius  in  the  great  arena  of  national  strife,  and  displayed  a  chivalry 
that  crowned  him  in  the  estimation  of  the  unprejudiced  world,  Viking 
of  the  Seas. 
He  had  ever 

"The  keen  spirit — seizes  the  prompt  occasion — ■ 
Makes  the  thought  start  into  instant  action 
And  at  once  plans  and  performs,  resolves  and  executes !" 

Captain  Semmes  fitted  out  the  little  Sumter  and  unfurled  the  first 
Confederate  flag  upon  the  ocean.  [The  story  of  his  many  captures  and 
grand  successes  has  already  been  told.]  *  *  *  In  the  history  of  the 
world  there  is  no  record  of  the  existence  of  so  terrible  a  cruiser  as  the 
Alabama,  the  proud  ship  that  met  her  doom  in  the  historic  British  Chan- 
nel. Over  the  taffrail  rolled  the  waves,  as  deeper  and  deeper  the  noble 
craft  settled.  Raising  his  sword  with  affectionate  solicitude,  he  gently 
placed  it  on  the  binnacle,  sorrowfully  exclaiming,  "Rest  thee,  excalibar, 
thy  grave  is  with  the  Alabama!"  Giving  one  last  sad  look  from  the  stem 
to  the  stern  of  his  lost  ship,  a  thousand  glorious  memories  flashed 
proudly  through  his  mind  as  accompanied  by  his  first  lieutenant  he 
sprang  into  the  sea.  *  *  *  England  received  him  kindly,  a  beautiful 
sword  replaced  the  lost  one,  and  a  lady  of  high  rank  made  for  him  with 
her  own  hands  out  of  richest  silk,  a  mammoth  Confederate  flag.  Re- 
turning home  his  government  commissioned  him  admiral,  his  being  the 
second  promotion  to  that  position  that  had  occurred  in  the  Confederate 
Navy.  After  the  defeat  of  the  cause  he  served  so  nobly  he  edited  a 
daily  paper  in  Mobile,  and  subsequently  a  daily  journal  in  Memphis. 
Later,  he  returned  to  his  first  love  and  resumed  the  practice  of  law  in 
Mobile,  where  he  achieved  a  high  reputation  as  a  constitutional  lawyer 
and  an  earnest  practitioner  at  the  bar.  Modest  and  unassuming,  his  dig- 
nified deportment  won  for  him  the  respect  and  confidence  of  the  com- 
munity in  which  he  lived.     *     *     * 

On  the  17th  of  August,  1877,  Admiral  Semmes  complained  of  feeling 
ill  and  the  resident  physician  at  Point  Clear,  Alabama,  was  summoned. 


280  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

After  repeated  visits  he  became  anxious,  and  expressed  a  desire  for  a 
consulting  physician.  The  admiral  objected,  saying  to  him,  "I  know 
my  race  is  run;  there  is  not  sufficient  vitality  in  my  old  and  worn-out 
frame  to  battle  successfully  with  the  disease  that  grapples  me  unto 
death."  Four  days  before  he  expired  he  received  the  last  sacrament  of 
the  Romish  Church,  of  which  he  was  a  devoted  member. 

Gently,  calmly,  this  chivalric  king  of  the  sea  surrendered  to  the 
great  conqueror — King  Death.  His  body  was  carried  by  steamer  from 
Point  Clear  to  Mobile,  attended  by  his  family,  the  clergy  and  a  large 
number  of  citizens.  The  pall-bearers,  consisting  of  members  of  the 
First  Regiment  of  Alabama  State  Troops  and  many  of  Mobile's  most 
distinguished  citizens,  under  the  escort  of  the  Mobile  Rifles  and  the 
members  of  the  bar,  conveyed  the  remains  to  the  cathedral,  where  Father 
Ryan,  after  the  celebration  of  mass,  delivered  an  eloquent  oration  on 
the  character  of  the  deceased.  Bishop  Quinlan  concluded  the  services 
at  the  cathedral  and  the  hearse,  drawn  by  four  white  horses,  was 
escorted  by  the  various  civil  and  military  associations  and  a  general 
gathering  of  the  people  through  the  solemn  streets  of  the  city  to  the 
Catholic  Cemetery,  where,  in  the  language  of  the  Mobile  Register, 
"all  that  was  mortal  of  one  of  earth's  greatest  heroes  was  left  to  that 
sleep  that  knows  no  earthly  waking." 

During  the  day  all  official  places,  stores  and  business  offices  were 
closed  and  draped  in  mourning.  From  sunrise  to  sunset,  at  intervals  of 
half  an  hour,  funeral  guns  were  fired,  and  every  mark  of  honor, 
esteem,  and  sympathy  was  exhibited  that  seemed  appropriate  to  the 
melancholy  occasion.  "Yesterday  he  was  ours :  to-day  he  belongs  to 
fame  and  to  history."  A  fame  that  is  not  the  exclusive  endowment  of 
the  South.  It  enriches  the  world,  the  pages  of  whose  history  confess 
no  truer  gentleman,  no  more  stainless  hero  in  all  the  illustrious  cata- 
logue of  the  dead.  Without  fear  and  without  reproach  he  may  appeal 
to  history.     We  can  say  with  the  poet — 

"Nor  wreck,  nor  change,  nor  winter's  blight, 
Nor  Time's  remorseless  doom 
Shall  dim  one  ray  of  holy  light 
That  gilds  thy  glorious  tomb." 


Chapter  XIX 

The  solitude  of  our  country  home  was  often  broken 
in  upon  by  friends,  who  sought  us  out  with  unforgetting 
love.  My  dear  Robert  Minor  walked  in  upon  us  unex- 
pectedly one  day,  and  oh !  the  joy  of  that  meeting !  that 
reunion !  Our  eldest  son,  John,  Jr.,  was  having  a  birth- 
day party  with  his  little  friends  and  schoolmates.  Bob  was 
the  happiest  of  the  lot.  He  entered  into  all  the  youngsters' 
games  and  mirth,  nearly  hugged  the  breath  out  of  little 
Semmes,  and  held  the  baby  girl  Marjory  with  patience 
unrivaled,  telling  us  all  the  time  about  his  own  loved 
ones  and  home.  Bob  was  an  embodiment  of  bravery  and 
tenderness — all  children  loved  him.  That  my  posterity 
may  value  this  friend  of  my  youth  and  my  life,  I  here 
insert  some  extracts  of  letters,  and  his  graphic  account  of 
the  battle  between  the  Monitor  and  the  Virginia,  or  Merri- 
mac,  in  which  he  took  an  active  part,  and  volunteering  to 
fire  the  Cumberland  was  wounded.  The  following  letter 
was  written  to  my  wife  soon  after  the  battle : 

Naval  Hospital, 

Norfolk,  Va.,  March  8th,  1862. 
My  Dear  Friend  :  The  Yankees  have  shut  me  up  for  a  while  with 
a  ball  through  my  side,  but  with  the  blessing  of  God  and  the  aid  of  a 
strong  constitution  I  hope  to  be  up  and  at  work  again  before  very  long. 
The  papers  have  no  doubt  told  you  all  about  our  terrible  conflict  and 
subsequent  victory,  and  I  can  add  but  little  to  that  you  already  know, 
save  to  tell  you  that  we  went  into  battle  to  do  our  best,  trusting  in 
Almighty  God  to  guard  and  protect  us,  and  most  signally  has  His 
Merciful  Providence  been  extended  over  us,  for  which  in  my  heart  I 
try  to  be  thankful ;  but  I  fear  that  I  am  not  sufficiently  so,  nor  can  I 
ever  be  for  sparing  me  to  meet  again  those  so  inestimably  dear  to  me. 
Kell's  old  friend,  Captain  Franklin  Buchanan,  of  the  Susquehanna,  of 
East  India  celebrity,  was  our  flag  officer,  and  most  bravely,  most  nobly 


282  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

did  he  take  us  into  action,  right  up  to  the  enemy,  and  exposing  himself 
entirely  too  much  for  his  own  safety  and  the  ultimate  good  of  our 
country.  He  did  me  the  honor  to  appoint  me  flag  lieutenant  of  his 
squadron,  consisting  of  all  the  vessels  in  the  waters  of  Virginia,  and  as 
you  would  no  doubt  like  to  know  who  the  other  officers  were,  I  annex  a 
list  of  them,  among  whom  you  will  find  some  of  your  old  acquaint- 
ances— 

Flag  officer,  Franklin  Buchanan;  ist  lieutenant,  Catesby  Ap.  R. 
Jones ;  2d  lieutenant,  Chas.  C.  Simms ;  flag  lieutenant,  Robert  D.  Minor ; 
3d  lieutenant,  Hunter  Davidson ;  4th  lieutenant,  John  Taylor  Wood ; 
Sth  lieutenant,  John  R.  Eggleston ;  6th  lieutenant,  Walter  R.  Butt ;  pay- 
master, James  Semple ;  surgeon,  R.  B.  Phillips ;  assistant  surgeon,  Al- 
gernon S.  Garrett ;  captain  of  marines,  Reuben  Thorn ;  chief  engineer, 
Ramsey ;  sailing  master,  Parish ;  midshipmen,  Littlepage,  Foute,  Mar- 
maduke,  Rootes,  Long,  Craig;  commodore's  clerk,  Arthur  Sinclair,  Jr.; 
secretary,  D.  A.  Forrest. 

Among  our  several  engineers  I  found  one  originally  from  the  vicinity 
of  Macon,  a  young  Mr.  White,  who  told  me  that  he  knew  your  father 
very  well.  He  did  his  duty  well,  and  stood  fire  like  a  true  Georgian. 
The  crash  into  the  Cumberland  was  terrific  in  its  results,  for  in  thirty 
minutes  after  the  action  commenced  the  ship  was  at  the  bottom  with,  I 
fear,  hundreds  carried  down  in  her.  Radford  was  her  captain,  but  was 
absent.  George  Morris  and  Stribling  are  said  to  be  her  lieutenants,  and 
have  probably  perished.  Our  cleaver  fairly  opened  her  side,  and  down 
she  went,  though  fighting  as  long  as  she  could.  Her  masts,  inclined  at 
an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  now  mark  the  remains  of  this  once  gal- 
lant ship.     She  will  never  burn  another  navy-yard  on  Southern  soil ! 

The  Congress  engaged  us  a  while,  but  soon  knocked  under,  and  Billy 
Parker,  commanding  the  C.  S.  Gunboat  Beaufort,  was  sent  with  orders 
to  "let  her  crew  go  ashore,  her  officers  to  be  brought  on  board,  and  to 
burn  the  frigate,"  then  hard  aground  near  the  Point.  While  endeavor- 
ing to  execute  the  directions  of  the  flag  officer  the  enemy  opened  on 
him  from  the  shore  so  hotly  that  he  was  forced  to  retire,  but  the  com- 
modore and  myself,  not  knowing  this,  and  seeing  that  the  Congress  was 
not  in  flames,  the  old  gentleman  became  very  anxious  to  destroy  her, 
which  he  could  not  do  while  she  had  the  white  flag  flying,  and  though 
he  had  once  declined  my  volunteered  offer  to  burn  her,  he  accepted  it 
when  I  made  a  second  offer.  For  this  purpose  I  took  some  eight  or 
ten  men  in  our  only  remaining  boat  and  pulled  towards  her,  while  the 
fight  was  going  on  between  the  James  River  Squadron  and  the  Min- 
nesota. The  flag  officer  ordered  Lieutenant  Webb  in  the  Teaser  to  pro- 
tect me  in  my  little  boat,  for  as  I  drew  near  the  Congress  the  soldiers 
on  shore  opened  on  me  with  artillery  and  musketry,  and  very  soon  two 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  283 

of  my  men  and  myself  were  knocked  down.  I  was  only  down  a  second 
or  two,  and,  steering  my  crippled  boat  for  the  Teaser,  Webb  took  us 
to  the  Virginia,  where  it  had  already  been  reported  that  they  were 
firing  upon  me,  and  the  flag  officer,  seeing  it,  deliberately  backed  our 
dear  old  craft  up  close  astern  of  the  Congress  and  poured  gun  after 
gun,  hot  shot  and  incendiary  shells  into  her,  when  the  smoke  began  to 
arise  from  her.  The  fierce  flames  exploded  her  magazines  a  little  after 
midnight  with  a  shock  so  terrible  that  it  shook  the  windows  of  houses 
miles  away  from  the  Point.  The  flag  officer  was  severely  wounded 
while  this  cannonading  was  going  on,  being  struck  in  the  left  thigh  by 
a  minnie  or  musket-ball,  which  so  disabled  him  that  he  was  taken  be- 
low, and  Catesby  Jones,  our  brave  and  determined  ist  lieutenant,  fought 
the  action  out,  which  on  Saturday  resulted  in  the  sinking  of  the  Cum- 
berland, the  burning  of  the  Congress,  the  serious  injury  of  the  Min- 
nesota, the  defeat  of  the  St.  Laurence,  the  retreat  of  the  Roanoke  (all 
first-class,  heavy  ships),  and  the  destruction  of  a  tug  and  some  schoon- 
ers— a  good  day's  work  for  the  Virginia,  ably  assisted  as  she  was  by  the 
Patrick  Henry,  Commander  Tucker;  Thomas  Jefferson,  Lieutenant 
Commanding  Barney;  Teaser,  Lieutenant  Commanding  Webb;  Beau- 
fort, Lieutenant  Commanding  Parker,  and  Raleigh,  Lieutenant  Com- 
manding Alexander.  Saturday  night  the  battle  ceased,  the  wounded 
among  the  crews  being  sent  to  this  place,  while  the  flag  officer  and  I 
remained  on  board  till  Sunday  morning,  the  action  re-commencing  soon 
after  we  left  between  the  Virginia  and  the  Minnesota,  hard  aground 
in  such  shoal  water  that  our  ship  could  not  approach  her  closely,  and 
the  Monitor  (your  old  acquaintance,  John  L.  Worden,  commanding) 
coming  to  her  assistance,  a  hard  fight  took  place  between  these  two 
ironclad  batteries,  which  resulted  in  nothing  but  some  little  damage 
on  both  sides,  and  so  the  Monitor,  clearing  out  towards  Old  Point,  our 
squadron  came  up  to  Norfolk.  As  soon  as  the  Virginia  is  ready  (by 
Saturday,  I  hope)  she  will  drive  ahead  at  them  again.  Thus  ended  our 
first  big  naval  fight,  and  I  thank  our  Merciful  Father  for  giving  us  the 
victory  over  our  enemies.  Our  total  loss  among  all  the  ships  was  nine 
killed,  among  them  Lieutenant  James  Taylor,  of  Virginia,  and  Midship- 
man Hutter,  also  of  Virginia;  about  fifteen  or  eighteen  wounded,  one 
of  whom  has  since  died.  The  flag  officer  is  here  and  is  doing  quite  well, 
though  his  wound  is  quite  a  severe  one.  The  ball  struck  me  in  the  side, 
glanced  around,  and  came  out  near  the  heart,  and  though  not  serious, 
is  a  severe  wound,  one  which  the  doctors  say  will  keep  me  off  duty  for 
about  two  months.  D.  heard  of  it  Sunday  and  came  at  once  to  me 
Monday.  God  bless  the  women !  What  would  the  world  be  without 
them?  Our  children  are  in  Richmond  with  my  brother,  where  we  hope 
to  rejoin  them.     And  now  I  have  done  with  self,  except  to  ask  you  to 


284  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

pardon  this  ill-looking  scrawl,  as  I  write  in  bed  and  by  "fits  and  starts," 
as  I  get  a  chance. 

Julian  Myers  (brother  of  Purser  Myers  of  the  Sumter)  told  Parker 
and  myself  a  few  weeks  ago  that  the  Sumter  had  destroyed  109  vessels, 
and  Lieutenant  McCorkle  told  me  that  she  had  $1,400,000,  most  of  which 
he  supposed  had  been  sent  to  England ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  think  from 
later  and  more  direct  news  that  this  latter  item  is  all  a  mistake,  for 
Captain  Pegram  of  the  Nashville  sent  Captain  Semmes  some  money  at 
Captain  Semmes's  request  to  Gibraltar.  The  Yankee  vessels  taken  by  the 
little  Sumter  have  not  generally  had  much  money  on  board,  hence 
Semmes's  request  for  funds.  I  do  not  believe  the  printed  report  that 
Semmes  was  arrested  at  Tangier;  but  even  if  it  is  true  the  Confederate 
Government  would  have  in  his  successor  as  brave  and  gallant  a  cap- 
tain for  the  Sumter  (now  far-famed)  as  ever  trod  a  deck  or  struck  a 
blow  for  his  country's  cause.  I  hope  most  earnestly,  my  friend,  that 
you  have  had  letters  from  him  by  the  Nashville  or  the  Economist  at 
Charleston,  Chas.  Fauntleroy  on  board.  D.  and  I  think  and  talk  often 
and  often  of  both  of  you,  and  deep  would  be  our  joy  to  see  you  united 
once  more  in  safety,  which  we  pray  God  may  soon  be  granted.  Yes,  my 
friend,  I  pray  for  him,  for  you,  and  your  little  children,  and  when  this 
war  is  at  an  end,  oh,  how  glad  we  will  be  to  see  you  all  in  Virginia! 
Now  our  beautiful  country  is  given  up.  "Linden,"  "Eastern  View," 
and  the  "Grove"  are  between  our  lines  and  the  enemy,  and  we  know  not 
what  will  be  the  result !  I  think  the  President  was  right  in  withdraw- 
ing our  army  from  Manassas.  How  are  the  two  little  boys  and  the  dear 
little  girl,  my  godchild?  Give  my  warm  regards  to  your  father,  write 
me  at  Richmond,  and  tell  me  all  you  know  about  Kell,  also  of  his 
mother  and  sisters.  D.  sends  her  best  love  to  you,  and  I  am  affec- 
tionately and  sincerely  your  friend, 

Robert  D.  Minor. 

This  devoted  friend  of  my  boyhood  watched  my  move- 
ments abroad  with  loving  interest,  and  always  tried  to 
cheer  my  family  if  unfavorable  news  of  the  Sumter,  and 
later  of  the  Alabama,  was  reported,  and  no  brother  could 
have  been  more  faithful.     Once  he  writes: 

Of  course  it  would  be  no  use  for  me  to  write  on  any  other  topic  till 
I  tell  you  all  about  the  little  Sumter  and  her  brave  fellows.  She  is 
not  "wrecked !"  She  has  not  "gone  to  the  Pacific."  She  was  heard 
from  in  September  at  the  Island  of  Trinidad.  The  Navy  Department 
wishes  that  she  was  now  in  some  port  of  the  Confederacy,  in  which  I 
know  you  piously  join !     But  to  details.     Early  in  September  there  was 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  285 

a  report  in  circulation,  originating  somewhere  in  the  fertile  region  of 
lies,  that  the  little  craft  had  been  lost  by  running  ashore  at  night,  and 
for  a  while  it  was  believed  to  be  so,  but  seventeen  days  later  than  the 
date  of  her  loss  she  was  at  the  Island  of  Trinidad.  She  did  not  remain 
long,  but  continued  her  cruise  in  accordance  with  instructions  giving 
her  a  "roving  commission  to  go  where  she  could  inflict  most  injury  on 
the  commerce  of  the  enemy."  The  latest  news  of  her  at  the  Navy 
Department  is  to  the  16th  of  September.  My  impression  is  that  after 
cruising  two  months  or  more  off  the  coast  of  Brazil  she  returned  to 
the  West  Indies  to  operate  there,  or  else  (as  is  barely  possible)  she 
may  have  relied  on  her  sails  to  take  her  across  to  the  British  Channel ; 
but  the  steamer  is  small  and  her  capacity  for  storage  of  supplies  so 
limited  I  hardly  think  they  could  have  favored  this  step.  I  hope  and 
believe  she  has  "doubled"  on  her  pursuers,  the  Powhatan  and  the  Key- 
stone State,  and  is  once  more  on  her  "native  heath"  among  the  West 
India  Islands.  Although  Kell  is  doing  our  country  good  and  noble 
service,  for  your  sake  I  do  wish  he  was  at  home,  for  there  is  duty 
enough  to  be  done  here,  and  we  want  clear  heads  and  strong  wills  to 
work  out  the  problem  of  our  independence,  of  which  I  have  never  had 
a  doubt,  so  great  is  my  reliance  on  the  righteousness  of  our  cause  and 
the  high  protection  afforded  by  Almighty  God. 

Of  course  I  cannot  conjecture  when  the  Sumter  will  return  to  the 
Confederacy,  but  I  think  it  cannot  be  long.  She  may  from  several 
causes  have  to  discontinue  her  cruise.  It  would  not  surprise  me  if  she 
were  sold  in  a  foreign  port,  and  her  officers  and  crew  find  their  way 
home  as  best  they  may !  So  you  need  not  be  surprised  to  see  him,  and 
next  to  you  and  his  mother  there  is  no  one  who  would  hail  his  safe 
and  speedy  return  more  gladly  than  myself,  for  not  only  were  we 
friends  as  boys,  but  our  friendship  has  "grown  with  our  growth  and 
strengthened  with  our  strength !"  God  bless  the  old  fellow  is  my  daily 
prayer.  May  He  watch  over  and  bring  him  back  in  safety  to  those  who 
love  him  so  well !  I  hope  to  pass  many  merry,  happy  days  with  him 
yet,  and  when  he  brings  you  all  to  see  us  one  of  these  days  I'll  show  the 
little  boys  "specimens  of  natural  history,"  the  like  of  which  the  broom- 
sedge  hills  of  Georgia  never  saw !  Very,  very  happy  days  were  those 
at  the  Pensacola  Navy  Yard,  when  Kell's  was  a  charming  home  for  us, 
on  the  little  Preble.  I  felt  very  sorry  for  the  ship  when  I  read  her  fate, 
but  not  a  whit  of  sorrow  for  those  on  board  of  her,  handling  my  guns, 
sleeping  in  my  room,  and  working  the  little  ship  I  loved  so  well.  I 
have  lately  been  in  a  very  perilous  expedition  planned  by  Commodore 
Mathew  F.  Maury.  Some  time  since  I  had  several  shots  at  the  U.  S. 
Steamer  Pocahontas,  and  two  days  after  the  Battle  of  Manassas  I 
found  the  body  of  Lieutenant  Douglas  Ramsey,  of  the  U.  S.  A.,  on  the 


286  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

field  and  had  it  decently  interred,  as  he  was  an  old  acquaintance  of  mine, 
and  the  son  of  Captain  Ramsey  of  the  Navy.  Sometimes  I  have  two  or 
three  men's  work  to  do  in  Ordnance  Department.  D.  is  with  me.  Do  you 
get  Richmond  papers  daily?  They  will  be  full  of  interest  for  the  next 
three  months.  Always  let  me  know  if  I  can  do  anything  for  you ;  it  gives 
me  such  sincere  pleasure  to  do  it.  Always  write  me  when  you  have 
news  of  John.  Give  love  to  his  mother  and  sisters.  Kiss  my  little 
goddaughter  and  hug  the  little  boys.  Don't  let  them  forget  me,  the 
devoted  friend  of  their  father  and  mother.  Does  "Mundy"  still  pray 
for  "Bob?"     I  hope  so!     God  bless  you  and  yours. 

Affectionately,  your  friend, 

R.  D.  Minor. 

The  loving  brotherhood  that  existed  in  the  friends  of 
the  old  Navy  is  something  dear  and  sacred  beyond  words 
to  look  back  upon.  He,  my  boyhood's  friend,  has  long 
since  preceded  us  to  the  "better  land,"  and  it  is  sweet  to 
remember  him  as  one  who  loved  God  and  his  family  and 
friends  with  faithful  heart,  and  served  his  country,  doing 
his  full  duty  with  noble,  patriotic  fervor.  God  grant  us 
a  happy  reunion  beyond  the  Sea  of  Time ! 


Chapter  XX 

Among  the  pleasant  things  that  came  into  my  life  about 
this  time  I  will  mention  this  little  incident.  I  had  occa- 
sion to  go  to  the  coast,  and  in  crossing  over  in  the  little 
steamer  from  Brunswick  to  Darien  the  captain  came  to 
me  and  said,  "Is  this  Captain  Kell?"  I  replied,  "Yes." 
"Well,"  he  said,  "Captain  Kell,  I  am  glad  to  see  you,  and 
you  are  expected.  I  promised  to  give  a  signal  to  the 
shore  when  you  were  on  my  boat  when  we  pass  Barratt's 
Island.  You  have  an  old  comrade  there,  one  of  your 
men  on  the  Alabama."  "What  is  his  name?"  I  inquired. 
"Rawse,  sir."  I  tried  to  think,  but  the  name  was  not 
familiar  to  me.  However,  I  knew  that  seamen  seldom 
use  their  own  names.  In  a  short  time  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  island,  and  soon  quite  near  it,  and  the  signal  was 
given.  Out  came  a  man,  whom  I  recognized  even  at  that 
distance  as  our  master-at-arms.  I  raised  my  hat,  and  he 
uncovered  his  head  and  proceeded  to  give  me  from  a  pile 
of  muskets  at  his  side,  that  he  had  arranged  for  the  pur- 
pose, a  commodore's  salute  of  thirteen  guns,  deliberately 
one  by  one!  I  waved  my  thanks  and  the  little  steamer 
passed  on.  Loyal  Rawse,  he  knew  what  should  have  been 
my  rank  but  for  ill  fortune  and  defeat,  and  determined  that 
he  at  least  would  recognize  it !  The  next  day  he  came 
up  to  see  me,  and  was  very  happy  at  the  meeting.  I  said, 
"Well,  Master-at-arms,  I  am  glad  to  see  you  once  more; 
tell  me  all  about  yourself."  I  found  he  was  a  sort  of 
sentinel  guard,  or  watchman  to  the  convicts,  that  island 
being  worked  by  convict  labor.  While  in  the  city  of 
Darien,  Dr.  Duncan,  one  of  the  owners  of  the  island  and 
lessees  of  the  convicts,  came  to  me  and  said :  "Your  friend 
Rawse  gave  us  a  terrible  scare  yesterday.     We  thought 


288  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

at  the  repeated  firing  of  the  muskets  kept  for  our  protec- 
tion that  the  convicts  had  risen  in  mutiny  and  our  island 
was  in  a  state  of  insurrection.  We  were  rejoiced  to  find 
it  was  a  salute  to  our  Georgia  commodore  instead." 

It  has  been  a  great  pleasure  to  meet  at  times  the  loyal, 
brave  fellows  that  served  with  us,  and  Savannah  held  quite 
a  number — Brooks,  one  of  our  efficient  engineers;  Mar- 
melstein,  our  young  signal  officer,  who  had  the  honor  of 
unfurling  the  first  Confederate  flag  to  the  breeze  on  the 
ocean;  the  brave  seaman,  Michael  Mars,  who  picked  up 
an  unexploded  shell  during  the  action  with  the  Kearsargc 
and  threw  it  overboard,  perhaps  saving  lives  thereby,  and 
who  only  a  few  short  years  ago  passed  away  from  earth. 
I  love  to  meet  the  brave  and  gallant  fellows  who  made  the 
glory  of  our  little  ship  and  were  so  loyal  hearted. 

Three  years  after  the  Civil  War  closed,  a  great  sorrow 
befell  my  family  in  the  death  of  my  wife's  father.  Think- 
ing it  best  to  make  a  change  for  them,  and  hoping  the 
change  would  benefit  my  still-  weak  health,  I  took  my 
family  out  to  Nova  Scotia  for  some  months.  Armstrong, 
who  resided  there,  had  long  ago  suggested  it  to  me  as  a 
motive  for  renewing  health.  We  sailed  from  New  York 
for  Halifax  in  one  of  the  fine  English  steamers,  and  I 
had  four  days  of  pleasure  on  Old  Ocean  again.  We  had 
a  very  pleasant  season  in  that  unrivaled  summer  climate, 
spending  some  weeks  in  the  city  of  Halifax.  Commodore 
Tatnall's  family,  Captain  John  Taylor  Wood,  the  Wilker- 
sons,  the  Sinclairs,  ex-Governor  Charles  J.  Jenkins  and 
family,  Lieutenant  Hoge,  my  friend  and  comrade  Arm- 
strong, his  young  wife  and  child,  and  many  other  South- 
erners formed  a  delightful  society  for  us.  We  went  into 
the  country  for  a  couple  of  months,  to  Petpeswick  Bay, 
Musquidoboit  Harbor,  where  the  fishing  was  fine — mack- 
erel, cod,  herring  and  salmon,  fresh  from  the  water,  mak- 
ing a  wholesome  diet,  and  all  so  great  a  change  to  us  from 
our  sunny  Southern  home.  I  do  not  think  there  can  be 
in  the  whole  world  anything  more  beautiful  than  this  Area- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  289 

dian  country,  where  I  have  somewhere  heard  or  read  that 
Longfellow  went  to  write  his  "Evangeline"  or  others  of 
his  poems,  where  one  can  readily  imagine  the  task  could 
be  made  easy  in  the  sight  of  the  limpid  streams  and  little 
miniature  lakes,  a  chain  of  which  we  passed  in  our  thirty- 
mile  drive  from  Halifax  to  the  bay.  Our  beautiful  even- 
ing walk  was  usually  to  a  small  church,  beside  which  was 
the  manse  embowered  in  vines  and  flowers,  all  so  sug- 
gestive of  the  "Lights  and  Shadows  of  Scottish  Life," 
the  stories  so  enchanting  to  youths  in  days  gone  by.  It  is 
the  land  of  mosses  and  lichens,  where  one  scarcely  sees 
the  face  of  the  earth  for  its  beautiful  adornment  of  green, 
and  the  deep  blue  sky  above  is  heavenly  in  its  color  (like 
October  skies  at  home);  and  gazing  into  its  depths  of 
ether  one  must  be  drawn  away  in  thought  and  made  for 
a  time,  at  least,  to  forget  earth's  desolate  unrest.  The 
summer  was  blessed  to  us  in  the  re-establishment  of  health, 
and  we  returned  in  the  fall  to  the  dear  old  "red  clay  hills" 
of  middle  Georgia,  quite  invigorated.  I  had  no  complaint 
of  invalidism  thereafter,  and  with  my  active  outdoor  life 
and  constant  exercise  soon  did  credit  in  health  and 
strength  to  the  blood  of  my  Highland  ancestors. 

In  the  fall  of  1873  a  message  came  over  the  wires  to 
me  from  Selma,  Alabama:  "The  doctor  has  been  very  ill; 
is  convalescing;  will  come  to  you  for  a  change."  Back 
flew  the  answer:  "Rejoice  to  hear  it;  come  at  once."  One 
of  the  beloved  friends  of  my  life,  Dr.  Charles  Frederick 
Fahs,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  with  whom  I  spent  the 
cruises  to  China  and  Japan  in  our  youth,  and  whom  I 
had  not  seen  for  seventeen  long  years,  came  to  my  home 
to  die.  With  his  wife  and  brother  they  left  Selma,  and  he 
seemed  to  improve  each  mile  of  the  way,  till  nearing  At- 
lanta a  chill  of  congestive  nature  set  in,  and  his  condition 
became  alarming.  Upon  arriving  in  Atlanta  Dr.  West- 
moreland and  other  physicians  were  summoned,  who 
urged  delay,  and  that  he  should  remain  there;  but  he 
steadily  refused,  saying,  "If  I  must  die,  I  would  rather  die 
19 


290  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

with  Kell."  The  cars  brought  him  to  my  door  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  On  a  bed  he  was  brought  into 
my  house,  but  growing  weaker  each  moment.  Before 
the  sun  set,  nine  hours  after  he  came,  his  noble  spirit  de- 
parted unto  God  who  gave  it,  as  he  leaned  upon  my  breast 
to  die.  His  triumph  in  departing  (though  he  had  so 
much  to  leave  in  lovely  wife  and  children)  was  beautiful 
to  see,  and  something  never  to  be  forgotten,  increasing 
our  faith,  enlarging  our  hope,  telling  us,  "It  is  not  all  of 
life  to  live,  nor  all  of  death  to  die !" 

Dr.  Charles  Frederick  Fahs  was*  a  man  of  science  and 
learning,  who  adorned  his  profession,  and  who,  like  the 
great  Maury,  was  a  man  of  noble  simplicity  of  character 
and  childlike  faith  in  God.  He  wrote  the  flora  and  fauna 
for  the  Japan  Expedition,  which  added  much  to  Commo- 
dore Perry's  published  volumes  for  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment of  that  very  interesting  period.  Peace  to  the 
ashes  of  one  so  noble  and  beloved. 

"Friend  of  my  early  days, 

None  knew  thee  but  to  love  thee, 
None  named  thee,  but  to  praise." 

In  the  year  1886  I  was  invited  by  the  Century  Magazine 
to  write  an  article  on  the  historical  fight  between  the  Ala- 
bama and  the  Kearsarge.  The  use  of  the  pen  has  always 
been  a  burden  to  me,  and  my  life  has  been  one  of  deeds, 
not  words.  I  at  first  declined.  I  thought  Admiral 
Semmes's  book  was  enough  for  history  and  the  world.  I 
had  been  solicited  by  many  leading  journals,  and  the  press 
of  the  country  often,  to  write,  but  my  farming  life  left  me 
little  time,  and  I  had  always  declined.  After  a  second 
invitation,  yielding  to  the  earnest  entreaties  of  my  home 
circle,  who  considered  it  a  duty  I  owed  to  the  "Lost 
Cause,"  I  wrote  the  historical  article  embodied  in  their 
"Battles  and  Leaders  of  the  Civil  War."  It  was  really 
amusing  and  interesting  to  see  my  mail  for  some  time  after. 
I  felt  offended  that  the  lying  sailor  yarn  preceded  my  arti- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  291 

cle,  and  that  the  "hearsay,"  though  able,  article  of  Dr. 
Browne  followed  it,  but  I  made  up  my  mind  to  take  no 
notice  of  it,  when  to  my  great  pleasure  I  found  Gait  could 
not  stand  it,  and  emerged  from  the  solitude  of  his  country 
home  to  defend  the  truth  of  history. 

CIVIL  WAR  HISTORY. 

To  the  Editor  of  the  Sun. 

Sir:  In  the  April  number  of  the  Century  Magazine  appeared  the 
long-looked-for  articles  on  the  Alabama,  which  attracted  notice  rather 
from  the  expectation  of  their  containing  new  developments  of  an  already 
well-understood  story  of  the  war  than  from  any  hope  that  what  was 
already  known  would  be  correctly  stated  by  Northern  writers.  As  one 
of  the  Alabama's  officers,  who  served  on  board  her  whole  cruise,  it  is 
not  out  of  place  for  me  to  correct  some  of  the  gross  errors  which  the 
sailor's  story  wilfully,  and  the  doctor's  through  hearsay,  are  more  or 
less  full  of,  and  between  which  Captain  Kell's  direct  and  truthful  narra- 
tive was  sandwiched  and  shrouded  by  some  curious  stories  and  pictures 
which  have  amused  those  who  were  present  on  the  scene.  The  story  of 
the  sailor  is  such  a  vulgar  misrepresentation  of  the  history  of  the  ship 
that  it  has  excited  surprise  that  a  reputable  journal  like  the  Century 
should  permit  such  a  tissue  of  statements  worse  than  errors  to  have  a 
place  in  what  is  supposed  to  be  history,  even  though  pictorial,  of  the 
Civil  War.  The  man's  name  is  unfamiliar  to  me,  but  if  it  be  a  nom  de 
plume  he  has  done  the  most  decent  thing  he  could  to  hide  his  identity 
when  telling  such  stories  about  his  ship.  If  he  was  a  sailor  on  the  ship 
his  account  at  once  convicts  him  of  a  treacherous  record,  and  if  he  has 
been  writing  from  hearsay  he  has  simply  been  paid  for  an  elaborate 
series  of  forecastle  inventions  utterly  without  truth.  Nor  can  my  mem- 
ory refer  me  to  any  one  on  board  whose  career  was  so  bad  (except  the 
man  Forrest)  as  to  have  tried  to  traduce  the  record  of  the  ship.  The 
article  would  not  have  been  considered  worth  notice  had  not  the  Pall 
Mall  Gazette  judged  from  that  account  harshly  of  the  discipline  on  the 
Alabama,  and  thus  tried  to  injure  the  reputation  of  as  fine  a  crew  as 
ever  served,  whether  English  or  other.  The  stories  of  mutiny  and  want 
of  subordination  are  such  absurd  exaggerations  that  one  hardly  knows 
how  to  deny  them,  and  the  well-known  record  of  the  Alabama's  work 
in  every  phase  of  her  career  is  the  best  commentary  on  such  trash  as 
the  sailor  has  put  forth.  It  is  difficult  to  understand  why  such  accounts 
were  published,  except  on  the  ground  of  enduring  malice  on  the  part  of 
some  writers  and  readers  owing  to  the  great  damage  done  on  the  high 
seas  by  the  Alabama,  and  when  it  is  known  that  the  editor  of  the  maga- 


292  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

zine  desired  Captain  Kell  in  his  article  not  to  let  the  bitterness  of  the  past 
be  introduced,  it  is  somewhat  singular  that  this  narrative  should  have 
been  flanked  by  a  series  of  statements  which  the  merest  tyro  in  criti- 
cism must  have  seen  to  be  gross  exaggerations.  The  loyalty  of  the 
crew  of  the  Alabama  to  the  flag  they  served  under,  the  cheerfulness 
with  which  they  stood  up  to  the  varied  emergencies  of  her  career,  and 
the  gallant  fight  they  made  at  the  last  against  their  invulnerable  enemy 
could  not  have  been  surpassed !  The  greater  part  of  the  crew  were 
English,  and  they  behaved  with  the  customary  bravery  and  fortitude  of 
their  race.  If  Haywood  was  of  that  race  he  has  certainly  managed  to 
distinguish  himself,  nor  has  the  Century  added  much  to  the  character 
which  it  has  striven  for  as  a  pictorial  recorder  of  the  late  Civil  War. 
Among  the  items  in  the  sailor's  account  as  especially  absurd  is  the  idea 
of  Captain  Semmes  being  thought  by  the  crew  to  have  been  a  parson! 
While  that  would  have  been  no  discredit,  it  is  however  the  case  that  he 
was  a  consistent  member  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  there  was 
nothing  in  his  bearing  to  indicate  that  he  was  anything  but  what  he 
looked  and  acted — an  officer  of  great  determination,  with  intelligent 
direction  of  resources  in  peace  and  war;  an  admirable  judge  in  manag- 
ing his  crew  with  a  high  appreciation  of  the  great  responsibility  of  his 
position,  which  he  worthily  maintained  under  all  circumstances. 

Other  misrepresentations  are  the  stories  of  the  conduct  of  the  board- 
ing crews  on  prizes.  Notwithstanding  the  very  great  temptations  to 
pillage,  I  cannot  recall  any  complaints  made  by  the  boarding  officers. 
Nor  do  I  remember  complaints  on  the  part  of  masters  of  prizes  about 
the  undisciplined  conduct  of  our  men.  The  account  of  the  conduct  of 
the  crew  at  Martinique  is  a  pure  fabrication,  especially  the  story  of  the 
"connivance  of  French  Naval  officers  and  shore  authorities"  to  assist  us 
in  getting  clear  of  a  supposed  United  States  man-of-war.  There  are 
scattered  through  the  whole  of  this  sailor's  story  these  repeated  accounts 
of  the  crew  which  are  totally  unworthy  of  credit,  such  as  the  smug- 
gling of  liquor  from  prizes,  wholesale  desertion  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  in  fact  almost  his  entire  narrative  shows  a  hopeless  want  of 
regard  for  the  truthfulness  which  is  just  as  becoming  in  the  forecastle 
as  elsewhere.  Dr.  Browne's  article  is  a  very  much  more  creditable 
contribution  to  the  Northern  side  of  the  question,  as  was  to  be  ex- 
pected. The  doctor  very  naturally,  from  his  position  on  board  the 
Kearsarge,  must  have  written  most  of  his  piece  from  hearsay.  As  both 
his  commander  and  executive  officer  were  dead,  he  probably  thought 
himself,  as  an  old  Navy  man,  better  qualified  by  observation  and  expe- 
rience to  give  a  correct  account  of  the  fight  with  the  Alabama,  as  the 
other  line  officers,  he  says,  were  mostly  from  the  merchant  marine.  His 
only  error  of  any  consequence  is  in  reference  to  the  Alabama's  firing 
after  her  surrender.     This  is  simply  not  correct !     The  fire  of  the  Ala- 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  293 

bama  was  suspended  for  awhile,  as  Captain  Kell  says,  "owing  to  the 
shifting  of  her  battery,"  but  after  the  flag  was  hauled  down  there  was 
no  shot  fired  from  that  ship.  The  story  the  doctor  tells  as  heard  from 
the  "prisoners"  about  the  junior  officers  of  the  Alabama  firing  after  the 
surrender  is  entirely  without  foundation,  as  was  also  the  report  that 
additional  men  were  taken  on  board  the  Alabama  at  Cherbourg.  It  is 
very  probable  that  the  firing  from  the  Kearsarge  after  the  Alabama's 
hauling  down  her  flag  was  the  result  of  flurry  and  doubt  on  the  part 
of  Captain  Winslow,  who  perhaps  felt  himself  surprised  into  a  victory 
over  a  vessel  which  had  been  so  conspicuous  during  the  war  and  had 
hitherto  eluded  the  best  efforts  of  capture. 

The  doctor  would  have  shown  better  taste  if  he  had  omitted  his 
opinion  of  a  rather  murderous  kind  about  the  Alabama's  deserving  to  be 
sunk  with  all  on  board  for  her  supposed  firing  after  surrender ! 
The  hesitancy  of  the  Kearsarge  to  send  boats  after  the  fight,  was  no 
doubt  owing  to  that  same  doubt  as  to  whether  the  Alabama  was  really 
sinking  or  not,  though  it  seems  that  it  might  have  been  noticed,  or  the 
captain  might  have  imagined  that  the  Alabama  was  about  to  take  a 
dive  under  to  reappear  as  a  submarine  torpedo  to  effect  against  her 
enemy  what  her  shot  could  not  against  the  enemy's  well-cabled  sides. 
This  delay  to  send  boats  to  the  sinking  ship  very  naturally  determined 
the  officers  and  crew  of  the  Alabama  to  look  out  for  themselves,  and 
thus  deprived  the  enemy  of  the  great  satisfaction  of  getting  Captain 
Semmes  and  others.  The  results  of  the  fight  of  the  Alabama  were 
adverse  for  very  simple  reasons,  as  stated  by  Captain  Kell,  the  damaged 
condition  of  the  powder,  the  efficient  plating  of  the  Kearsarge  and  the 
foul  bottom  which  injured  the  Alabama's  speed.  In  fact,  like  all  other 
important  disasters  to  the  Confederacy,  it  was  the  result  of  want  of 
resources  in  material  which  the  greatest  skill  and  heroism  could  not 
cope  with. 

There  is  nothing  but  favorable  report  to  make  of  the  condition  of 
the  Kearsarge  after  the  fight,  and  the  treatment  of  prisoners  and 
wounded  men  taken  on  board  was  all  that  medical  attention  and  cour- 
tesy could  have  desired. 

Francis  L.  Galt, 

Surgeon  of  C.  S.  Steamer  Alabama. 
Upperville  P.  O.,  Fauquier  Co.,  Va. 

May,  1886,  the  Century's  editor  wrote  me: 

Dear  Sir  :  By  an  oversight  this  copy  of  a  letter  received  by  us  from 
Mr.  Walt  Whitman  goes  to  you  rather  late,  for  which  we  apologize : 


294  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

"Camden,  New  Jersey,  April  3d,  1886. 
"My  reading  for  the  last  two  or  three  days  (limited)  of  the  articles 
in  Century  about  Kearsarge  and  Alabama,  which  I  have  just  finished. 
They  form  by  far  the  best  contribution  I  know  to  the  literature  of  the 
Secession  era,  and  are  full  of  realism  and  thrill.  The  pictures  are  mas- 
terly. I  only  wish  we  could  have  accounts  of  all  the  swell  episodes  of 
the  war  in  the  same  way,  or  approximately  to  it.  I  want  personally  to 
thank  you  all,  writers  and  picture-makers. 

"Walt  Whitman/' 

I  had  scores  of  letters  from  personal  friends,  whose 
approbation  and  appreciation  of  my  contribution  to  his- 
tory gave  me  much  pleasure. 


Chapter  XXI 

Many  years  ago,  when  Mr.  Davis  was  invited  to  make 
his  tour  of  triumph  through  the  South  and  be  present  at 
the  unveiling  of  the  monument  to  the  gifted  son  of 
Georgia,  the  Hon.  Benjamin  H.  Hill,  I  received  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Henry  W.  Grady — generous,  noble  Grady! — 
always  on  the  alert  to  honor  and  give  pleasure  to  an  old 
Confederate,  asking  me  to  accompany  the  escort  of  vet- 
erans that  were  to  meet  Mr.  Davis  at  Montgomery,  Ala- 
bama. His  letter  read  as  follows  (I  accepted  the  invita- 
tion of  veterans) : 

My  Dear  Sir  :  I  inclose  you  a  ticket  to  the  platform  next  Saturday 
to  witness  the  unveiling  of  the  Hill  statue.  It  is  an  appropriate  com- 
pliment that  you  should  be  here  to  meet  Mr.  Davis,  and  it  is  my  per- 
sonal request  that  you  come.  Mr.  Davis  will  be  glad  to  see  you,  the 
people  will  be  glad  to  see  you,  and  I  will  be  glad  to  see  you,  for  I  have 
always  admired  you  and  loved  you  for  your  gallantry  in  the  cause  for 
which  my  father  gave  his  life,  more  than  you  have  ever  suspected !  I 
shall  look  for  you  on  that  day. 

Yours  very  truly, 

Henry  W.  Grady. 

I  gladly  accepted  these  kind  invitations,  and  it  was  the 
first  time  in  many  years  that  I  had  left  the  seclusion  of 
my  country  home  (I  enjoyed  every  moment  of  the  time) 
to  take  part  in  any  public  occasion.  The  glad  exultations 
of  the  Southern  people  to  greet  the  patriot  who  to  them 
embodied  the  dear  "Lost  Cause,"  to  say  nothing  of  the 
magnetism  of  his  own  personality,  was  beautiful  beyond 
words  to  express.  I  hope  and  believe  the  shouts  of  wel- 
come and  words  of  love  of  that  time  and  tour  lived  and 
re-echoed  in  his  heart  and  memory  until  the  unseen  angels 
came  to  carry  his  great  soul  beyond  the  shores  of  time, 


296  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

where  loyalty  and  patriotism  (though  but  human  virtues) 
may  count  for  their  true  value  before  the  Judgment  Seat 
of  Him  who  made  our  human  hearts,  and  who  has  prom- 
ised after  death's  long  sleep  that  those  who  love  and  serve 
Him  shall  "awake  and  be  satisfied!" 

I  have  been  asked  many  times  in  my  life  how  I  bore  the 
quiet  of  a  farmer's  life  after  such  activity  as  I  had  always 
known,  or  how  I  existed  without  a  sniff  of  salt  air  and  sea 
breezes?  Man  is  the  creature  of  habit.  My  habit  of  life 
changed  and  gave  place  to  new  tastes  and  experiences. 
This  being  a  history  of  my  public  life  and  services,  I  will 
not  intrude  upon  my  readers,  friends  and  posterity  much 
of  the  home  and  farming  life,  combining  so  much  of  "the 
joy  and  sorrow  with  which  the  stranger  may  not  intermed- 
dle." While  I  made  a  suppDrt  for  my  family,  I  never  found 
anything  remunerative  in  farming.  I  suppose  I  was  too 
much  of  a  sailor  to  farm  well,  except  in  enthusiasm.  It 
has  often  been  an  amusement  to  myself  to  see  how  far 
away  my  thoughts  sometimes  were  from  my  work.  I 
was  obliged  once  to  let  the  family  enjoy  with  me  a  joke 
upon  myself.  I  was  seated  in  my  two-horse  wagon  and 
had  a  new  darkey  alongside  of  me  driving,  my  thoughts 
of  Spain  and  a  famous  fox  hunt  I  once  enjoyed  there, 
when  looking  up  I  saw  the  boy  was  going  in  the  wrong 
direction.  Quick  as  lightning  I  called  out,  "Port  your 
helm !"  The  darkey  evidently  thought  my  nautical  lan- 
guage a  majestic  swear,  and  called  out  in  a  startled  tone, 
"Sah?"  I  laughed  in  spite  of  myself — and  he  never  un- 
derstood why — and  I  said  quietly,  "Drive  to  the  right, 
boy,"  and  we  continued  our  journey. 

Among  the  happy  summers  of  our  life  I  recall  the  one 
of  187 — ,  when  we  had  as  next  door  neighbors  the  family 
of  the  lamented,  gifted  Lanier.  His  wife  and  mine  had 
been  loving  friends  from  the  cradle  of  Mrs.  Lanier,  my 
wife  being  her  senior  several  years — their  mothers  loving- 
friends  before  them.  Mr.  Lanier  was  just  then  going  on 
to  Baltimore  to  join  the  orchestra  with  his  magic  flute. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  297 

Such  music  I  believe  the  world  will  never  hear  again,  when 
the  very  soul  of  the  master  seemed  to  breathe  out  in  its 
heavenly  cadences,  and  the  rapt  listeners  scarcely  realized 
their  mortality,  so  strong  were  the  spiritual  affinities  at 
work  within  them.  The  very  air  of  home  seemed  blessed 
in  the  happy  evenings  in  which  he  made  music  for  us. 
One  morning  he  walked  into  our  little  sitting-room,  and 
with  a  wearied  look  on  his  face  threw  himself  on  the  sofa 
and  exclaimed,  "Such  a  delightful  walk  as  I  have  had 
in  and  out  of  the  beautiful  corn  rows  in  the  field  next  to 
us.  I  never  saw  such  corn  before.  I  luxuriated  in  the 
rustle  of  its  leaves !"  This  walk  was  the  inspiration  of  the 
poem,  "Corn,"  among  his  finest — if  one  can  discriminate 
among  his  soulful  lyrics.  Even  the  heathen  said,  "Whom 
the  gods  love,  die  young,"  and  this  true,  pure,  manly  soul 
was  early  called  to  heavenly  blessedness;  but  the  world 
is  better  for  his  life  lived  here,  his  music,  and  his  songs. 

A  correspondence  (our  only  communication  with  the 
outside  world)  is  a  great  pleasure  in  country  life,  and  yet 
when  letters  come  with  such  clippings  as  these,  how  stirred 
up  I  feel  to  give  battle  to  the  falsehoods  that  are  supposed 
to  make  history.     In  a  recent  letter  Armstrong  writes  me : 

In  my  last  letter  I  referred  to  the  enclosed  and  promised  to  send  you 
a  copy  when  I  came  across  it.  It  so  happened  that  an  old  classmate  of 
mine,  owner  of  the  Steam  Yacht  Intrepid,  came  into  port  and  behold ! 
my  old  antagonist  (and  friend)  J.  Schuyler  Crosby,  a  guest  on  board. 
This  brought  to  mind  the  incident  of  my  letter  to  the  New  York  Sun 
in  reply  to  Colonel  Crosby's  speech,  revealing  this  precious  bit  of  his- 
tory, and  a  search  among  my  papers  brought  it  to  light.  Crosby  was  a 
colonel  on  Sheridan's  staff  after  the  war. 

"United  States  Consulate, 

"Florence,  Italy,  September  4th,  1879. 
"Hon.  William  Hunter, 

"Second  Assistant  Secretary  of  State, 

"Washington,  D.  C. 
"Sir:     Within  the  last  few  days  the  following  circumstances  came 
to  my  knowledge,  and  I  deem  them  of  sufficient  historical  interest  for  the 
subject  of  this  dispatch.     An  acquaintance  of  mine,  Sir  John  Burgoyne, 


298  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

in  the  course  of  conversation  told  me  that  a  few  hours  before  the  en- 
gagement between  the  Kearsarge  and  Alabama  he  took  the  lieutenant 
of  the  latter  on  board  the  Kearsarge.  He  was  dining  at  the  Crown 
Hotel,  Dover,  and  his  neighbor  at  table,  who  turned  out  to  be  an 
officer  of  the  Kearsarge,  invited  him  to  visit  her.  The  next  day  at 
dinner  at  the  same  hotel,  another  stranger,  who  got  into  conversation 
with  Burgoyne,  asked  him  what  was  the  war  vessel  lying  off  Dover,  if 
she  was  ironclad,  what  her  armament  was,  and  to  what  country  she 
belonged?  Sir  John  found  him  an  agreeable  and  intelligent  companion, 
and  on  his  saying  he  was  going  aboard  the  Kearsarge  acceded  to  his 
request  to  permit  him  to  accompany  him.  On  going  aboard  the  next 
day  the  officer  who  had  invited  Burgoyne  was  not  on  board,  but  the 
officer  of  the  deck,  on  seeing  Burgoyne's  card,  invited  him  and  his  friend 
on  board  and  showed  them  every  part  of  the  vessel,  in  which  inspection 
the  stranger  showed  a  marked  and  intelligent  interest. 

"When  Sir  John  and  his  companion  returned  ashore  his  unknown 
acquaintance  said,  'Thank  you  so  much ;  you  little  know  what  a  service 
you  have  rendered  me,  Sir  John,  for  I  am  the  first  lieutenant  of  the 
Alabama.'  The  subsequent  meeting  of  these  two  vessels  took  place  with 
the  result  all  the  world  knows. 

"I  have  the  honor  to  be,  etc., 

[Signed]  "H.  E.  Huntington, 

"Vice-Consul." 

Copy  of  dispatch  to  State  Department,  Washington,  furnished  me  at 
St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  by  Colonel  J.  Schuyler  Crosby. 

R.  F.  Armstrong. 

"Oh,  how  this  world  is  given  to  lying,"  and  never  since 
Ananias  was  so  suddenly  silenced  was  a  more  absurd  lie 
given  to  history !  I  never  was  at  Dover  in  my  life,  I  never 
made  the  acquaintance  of  a  Sir  John  Burgoyne,  and  I  never 
set  foot  on  the  deck  of  the  Kearsarge! 

Armstrong's  able  and  caustic  pen  saved  me  the  trouble 
of  refuting,  and  the  New  York  Sun  soon  published  the  fol- 
lowing : 

THE  SECOND   MATE  OF  THE   "  ALABAMA"  REPLIES   TO   COLONEL   CROSBY. 

To  the  Editor  of  the  Sun. 

Sir:  In  your  Washington  correspondence  of  December  6th  there 
appears  an  article  headed  "Lord  Burgoyne's  Remarkable  Story  Concern- 
ing the  Alabama's  Last  Fight,"  in  which  Mr.  J.  Schuyler  Crosby, 
recently  appointed  First  Assistant  Postmaster  General,  relates  some  very 
interesting  incidents  for  the  edification  of  the  Loyal  League.     The  only 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  299 

single  fact  in  the  whole  story  is  that  off  Cherbourg  on  a  certain  day 
in  June  a  fight  did  take  place.  The  English  yacht  which  rendered  such 
efficient  service  in  saving  life  on  June  19th,  1864,  was  the  Dcerhound, 
whose  owner  was  Mr.  Lancaster — not  Greyhound — and  if  Lord  Bur- 
goyne  was  on  board  the  Deerhound  it  is  the  first  time  that  any  one  has 
ever  heard  of  the  fact.  The  Kearsarge  did  not  come  to  an  anchor  be- 
fore the  fight,  and  the  only  communication  had  with  her  from  the  shore 
was  by  the  United  States  Consul  in  carrying  to  Captain  Winslow  the 
challenge  of  the  Alabama.  The  only  other  craft,  besides  the  Kear- 
sarge, which  shared  the  honors  of  saving  life  on  that  occasion  was  a 
French  pilot-boat,  and  the  writer  asserts  most  positively  that  Lord  Bur- 
goyne  was  not  on  board  of  her.  Our  first  lieutenant,  Kell,  was  saved  by 
the  Deerhound,  and  I  think  I  can  trust  my  memory  so  far  as  to  state 
that  Lieutenant  Kell  did  not  leave  the  side  of  the  Alabama  from  the 
day  she  entered  Cherbourg  until  she  steamed  out  of  the  port — in  fact, 
was  not  on  shore  at  all — and  therefore  could  not  have  met  "Lord  Bur- 
goyne"  at  a  hotel,  or  elsewhere. 

But,  Mr.  Editor,  the  necessity  given  for  such  a  visit  is  the  unkindest 
cut  of  all,  and  the  reflection  cast  upon  the  officers  of  the  Alabama — of 
not  being  able  to  locate  the  boilers  of  the  steamship  without  a  personal 
inspection — is  such  a  slander  upon  our  Alma  Mater,  the  United  States 
Naval  Academy,  that  I  feel  called  upon  to  resent  it.  But  where  is  the 
use  of  further  proving  the  romance  of  Lord  Burgoyne's  remarkable 
statements?  But,  then,  Colonel  Crosby  has  had  but  little  experience  of 
the  sea,  and  of  those  who  navigate  thereon,  and  it  is  but  charitable  to 
presume  that  this  "slip-over"  effort  of  the  gallant  colonel  was  in  the 
nature  of  one  of  those  yarns  we  always  tell  to  the  "horse  marines." 
[Signed]  The  Second  Lieutenant  of  the  "Alabama." 

St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  December  26th. 

Armstrong  in  his  youth  found  home  and  happiness  in 
another  country;  he  never  lived  in  reconstruction  times, 
and  I  am  afraid  I  shall  have  to  give  him  thrice  the  fifteen 
years  of  additional  age  the  admiral  allowed  me  in  which 
to  become  conservative.  I  am  in  receipt  of  an  amusing 
article  of  his,  as  yet  unpublished — 

the  "Alabama's"  crockeryware  and  flights  of  fancy  in  connection 

therewith. 
Editor  Art  Interchange. 

In  your  September  number  appears  an  article  entitled  "Ceramic  Rel- 
ics of  the  Confederate  States  of  America."  One  would  judge  from 
viewing  the  cut  of  the  only  article  which  properly  can  be  classed  under 


300  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

so  pretentious  a  title,  the  hospital  and  ante-bellum  hospitable  jug,  that 
these  people  could  hardly  claim  distinction  in  ceramic  art.  Perhaps  in 
their  semi-barbarous  and  unaesthetic  condition  they  laid  more  store  by 
their  military  prowess  than  their  manufacture  of  pottery.  Ars  est  celare 
artem,  and  in  the  little  brown  jug  the  maxim  is  fully  accomplished — in 
fact,  in  simplicity  of  design  and  finish  this  example  of  fine  art  makes 
towards  pure  aestheticism,  and  distinctly  makes  an  evolutionary  period 
in  the  history  of  a  hitherto  rude  and  uncultured  people. 

Mr.  Edwin  At  Lee  Barber,  who,  from  his  praecognomen,  I  should  judge 
to  be  of  the  Flowery  Kingdom,  and  consequently  an  expert  in  pottery 
affairs,  shows  a  commendable  spirit  in  delving  into  the  hitherto  unex- 
plored field  of  Dixie,  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  his  search  for  objects 
d'art  et  virtu  of  the  Confederate  period  has  been  so  barren  of  results. 
In  fact,  his  search  for  these  ceramic  art  treasures  has  apparently  been 
so  disappointing  as  to  force  him  to  draw  upon  the  crockery  establish- 
ment of  Messrs.  Badley  &  Co.,  of  Staffordshire,  and  bring  into  the 
service  of  his  article  the  crockeryware  supplied  by  that  house  for  the 
alimentary  comfort  of  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  Alabama.  Mirabile 
dictu!  the  plates,  cups  and  saucers,  and  perhaps  other  pottery  vessels, 
have  been  invested  with  miraculous  flotative  power,  and  with  the  factor 
of  avoirdupois  eliminated,  like  the  wonderful  borrowed  axe  of  Elisha, 
have  been  made  to  rise  from  full  fathom  five  to  supply  relics  of  "the 
famous  sea-rover."  I  have  heard  of  this  putative  Alabama  crockery- 
ware  before,  and  in  point  of  fact  have  in  my  possession  a  rather  hefty 
specimen  of  it,  no  doubt  obtained  from  the  same  source  as  those  in  the 
treasured  keeping  of  the  "daughter  of  the  Confederate  officer  in  Geor- 
gia" and  the  "lady  in  Florida."  Hitherto  I  have  attached  but  little 
value  to  my  soup-plate,  and  as  a  specimen  of  fine  art  it  is  considered 
hardly  up  to  some  of  the  productions  of  Sevres  or  even  those  of  Mr. 
At  Lee's  own  country;  but  now  the  case  is  entirely  different,  and  in  so 
well  authenticated  a  relic  "recovered  from  the  vessel  after  she  had  been 
sunk"  and  ipso  facto  necessarily  invested  with  miraculous  power,  I  con- 
sider that  I  have  a  treasure  which  it  is  my  duty  to  transmit  as  a  valued 
heirloom ! 

Several  years  ago  in  St.  Augustine,  I  was  asked  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Prime,  of  Holy  Land  memory,  to  authenticate  one  of  these  plates 
as  a  genuine  relic  of  the  Alabama.  I  asked  the  reverend  gentleman  if 
he  had  ever  read  of  the  little  affaire  a  deux  off  Cherbourg?  He  replied 
that  he  had.  "Then,  Doctor,  would  you  not  think  that  at  that  time  we 
were  otherwise  engaged  than  in  saving  crockery?"  I  must  confess  that 
the  miracle  theory  had  not  occurred  to  me  at  that  time,  and  I  have 
probably  prevented  this  particular  plate  from  appearing  in  the  lists  of 
the  genuine  relics  no  doubt  obtained  by  the  gentleman  in  Palestine  and 


'    ;  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  801 

other  Eastern  countries.  Perhaps  there  is  no  more  cause  to  doubt  that 
the  crockeryware  of  the  Alabama  bobbed  up  serenely  from  the  bottom 
of  the  English  Channel,  and  ergo,  that  the  "plate,  cup  and  saucer,  said 
to  have  been  recovered  from  the  vessel  after  she  had  been  sunk"  are  as 
genuine  as  half  the  Christian  relics  that  we  swear  by,  and  far  better 
authenticated !  As  time  passes  we  shall,  no  doubt,  hear  more  of  these 
Alabama  relics,  so  for  the  nonce  I  shall  assume  the  role  of  "the  bull  in 
the  china  shop"  and  put  a  quietus  upon  the  crockery  part.  Therefore, 
relic  hunters,  give  ear  to  my  story  and  attention  to  my  relation. 

The  contract  with  Messrs.  Laird  Bros,  was  for  a  ship  of  certain 
dimensions  and  power,  furnished  complete  with  everything  for  the 
voyage.  This,  of  course,  included  crockeryware,  and  accordingly  four 
sets  of  this  ware  (with  designs  as  shown  in  the  illustrations)  were  put 
on  board  of  the  ship  before  she  left  Birkenhead.  The  designs  in  all 
were  the  same,  only  the  colors  were  different — that  for  the  captain  being 
gold ;  for  the  wardroom,  blue ;  for  the  steerage,  green,  and  for  the  crew, 
brown.  This  latter  set  had  short  shift  on  board,  and  as  its  disap- 
pearance from  the  present  investigation  of  Confederate  ceramic  art 
treasures  constitutes  the  first  crockery  smash-up  of  a  series.  I  will 
adorn  my  tale  and  perhaps  point  a  moral  by  relating  the  circumstances. 
In  those  days — 1862 — of  square-rigged  ships  and  sail  power  it  was 
essential  that  the  crew  of  a  man-o'-war  should  be  sailors — it  is  not  so 
necessary  now,  when  artisans,  mechanics  and  soldiers  compose  the  per- 
sonnel of  a  modern  fighting  machine,  and  the  old-time  shell-back  has 
been  educated  out  of  existence — and  the  crew,  according  to  immemorial 
custom,  was  divided  into  convenient  messes,  each  in  charge  of  one  of 
its  numbers,  designated  mess  cook.  The  deck  served  for  a  table,  a  tar- 
paulin for  a  cloth,  and  the  table  furniture  consisted  of  tinware — in  not 
too  excessive  quantity.  Each  sailor  was  entitled  to  a  pot,  pan  and  spoon, 
and  these,  with  his  sheath-knife,  comprised  his  whole  mess  outfit.  The 
swinging-table  and  crockeryware  abominations  are  of  later  introduction 
into  the  Navy,  and  it  remains  to  be  seen  if  such  enervating  luxuries  have 
improved  the  morale  of  man-o'-war  Jack. 

Well,  the  Alabama's  crew  started  on  a  crockeryware  basis,  and  these 
emblematic  plates,  cups  and  saucers  were  a  source  of  constant  trouble. 
Shortly  after  going  into  commission,  and  while  we  were  gradually  but 
surely  bringing  our  Liverpool  packet  material  up  to  the  standard  of 
man-o'-war  discipline,  the  complaints  against  these  mess  cooks  were 
loud  and  frequent.  This  one  did  not  wash  the  plates,  that  one  failed 
to  polish  the  cups,  and  they  were  altogether  a  bad  lot !  Finally,  the 
patience  of  our  executive  officer,  being  wholly  exhausted,  and  perhaps 
thinking  it  about  time  to  give  the  disciplinary  screw  another  turn,  he 
ordered  the  whole  of  the  men's  crockery  to  be  brought  up  from  below. 
Jack  was  jubilant  at  the  prospect  of  punishment  being  meted  out  to  the 


302  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

delinquent  cooks,  but  his  joy  was  short  lived,  for  as  soon  as  the  master- 
at-arms  reported  "all  up,  sir,"  overboard  went  about  half  a  ton  of  Con- 
federate States  ceramic  art,  and  perhaps  it  is  now  under  the  aesthetic 
arrangement  of  sea  naiads'  hands  embellishing  the  abysmal  caverns  of 
sunken  Atlantis.  Jack's  service  thereafter  was  of  bright  tinware,  and  as 
this  was  what  he  had  been  accustomed  to,  he  soon  forgot  his  prized 
crockeryware  and  borrowed  no  further  trouble  about  his  mess  arrange- 
ments. 

There  is  a  moral  in  this  plain  tale  of  the  sea,  but  I  shall  leave  it  to 
the  perspicacity  of  the  reader  to  pick  it  out.  I  remember  on  one  occa- 
sion chasing  a  vessel  throughout  the  midwatch  and  turning  the  chase 
over  to  my  successor  of  the  deck.  About  daylight  the  chase,  having  been 
brought  to  and  proving  ripe  for  destruction,  i.  e.,  of  the  proper  nation- 
ality, with  no  neutral  cargo  aboard,  she  was  accordingly  despoiled  and 
fired.  The  captain  and  mate  of  the  prize  were  assigned  as  guests  of  the 
midshipmen's  mess.  At  breakfast,  when  coffee  was  served,  the  captain, 
examining  the  cup  with  far  too  critical  an  eye  for  a  guest,  blurted  out, 
"Wall,  look-y-here,  Mate,  I'll  be  goldarned  if  this  here  ain't  one  of  our 
own  cups  and  sassers."  And  no  doubt  the  captain  was  right,  for  in 
those  halcyon  days  such  was  the  easy  transfer  of  property  on  the  high 
seas,  that  it  was  quite  possible  for  this  captain  to  have  sipped  his  tea 
from  his  own  cup  on  his  own  ship  in  the  evening,  and  taken  his  coffee 
from  the  same  cup  on  board  "the  pirate"  at  eight  bells  on  the  following 
morning. 

It  would  appear  from  this  anecdote  that  wear,  tear  and  breakage  had 
so  diminished  the  midshipmen's  stock  of  "this  famous  crockery"  as  to 
render  it  necessary  for  them  to  "draw  upon  the  enemy  for  a  further 
supply."  Having  thus  disposed  of  the  brown  and  the  green,  an  indignant 
posterity  must  hold  the  Kearsarge  responsible  for  having  played  the 
devil  with  the  rest  of  it ! 


Chapter  XXII 

One  day  in  the  summer  of  1886,  coming  in  tired  from 
my  work,  my  wife,  at  her  sewing  on  the  porch  "behind 
the  morning  glory  vines"  that  shut  out  the  world,  called 
out  to  me,  "Here's  a  letter  for  you  from  the  Constitution 
office,"  but  none  can  imagine  my  surprise  at  its  contents ! 
It  seems  that  my  friends  had  been  thinking  of  me,  and 
resolved  to  do  something  for  me.  The  kindly  thought 
originated  in  the  mind  of  Col.  L.  N.  Whittle,  but  it  only 
needed  to  be  suggested  to  others.  Judge  Richard  H. 
Clark,  Col.  L.  Q.  C.  Lamar,  Hon.  David  J.  Bailey,  Sr., 
his  sons,  and  my  friend  Frank  Flint  and  my  kind  neigh- 
bors at  Sunnyside,  and  Griffin,  the  county  seat  of  Spalding, 
where  I  came  to  abide,  and  where  my  children  were  born, 
all  lent  a  helping  hand.  Colonel  Whittle  wrote  my  wife 
and  said :  "Your  husband  must  have  position  under  the 
incoming  administration.  General  Gordon  will  be  Gov- 
ernor. Captain  Kell,  I  know,  will  solicit  nothing,  but  his 
friends  will  do  it  for  him."  Fearing  some  disappointment 
to  me,  knowing  I  had  never  taken  part  or  interest  in  poli- 
tics, my  home  circle  kept  very  quiet  and  waited  events. 
The  suggestion  reached  the  ears  of  Mr.  Grady  in  connec- 
tion with  the  place  of  Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  and 
his  letter  to  me  read  as  follows : 

Atlanta,  Ga.,  July  27th,  1886. 
My  Dear  Captain  :  I  write  you  at  the  suggestion  of  my  partner, 
Evan  P.  Howell.  He  and  I  were  talking  things  over  to-day  and  I  sug- 
gested that  you  had  been  mentioned  as  a  possible  candidate  for  Com- 
missioner of  Agriculture,  and  that  you  ought  to  have  something  from 
the  State.  There  are  certain  difficulties  in  the  way  of  that  office,  but  Evan 
then  suggested  that  you  apply  to  General  Gordon  for  the  position  of 
Adjutant-General.     I  think  the  place  pays  about  $2000  and  is  a  good 


304  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL XIFE 

place.  It  is  in  the  Capital,  near  the  governor,  and  is  a  place  of  dignity 
and  such  work  as  would  come  to  your  inclination.  In  making  such 
application  you  will  have  the  earnest  support  of  both  Mr.  Howell  and 
myself  and  Mr.  Hemphill,  and  indeed  all  of  the  Constitution.  This  I 
am  sure  will  give  you  the  place.  Your  application  would  be  kept  quiet, 
and  if  anything  should  go  wrong  would  never  be  known.  I  am  sure, 
however,  it  will  be  right. 

Yours  with  high  regard, 

H.  W.  Grady. 
In  August  he  wrote  me  again : 

My  Dear  Captain  Kell  :  I  feel  sure  that  the  matter  I  wrote  you 
about  will  be  settled  satisfactorily.  I  have  spoken  to  General  Gordon, 
and  his  views  coincide  with  mine  entirely,  and  there  is  no  reasonable 
doubt  that  the  appointment  will  be  made.  In  giving  you  this  news,  I 
congratulate  the  State  and  General  Gordon  very  much  more  than  your- 
self. It  is  but  small  returns  for  the  great  debt  that  Georgia  owes  you; 
but  I  am  grateful  at  being  the  humble  instrument  by  which  even  so 
small  a  part  of  the  obligation  may  be  rendered.  It  will  be  well  to  say 
nothing  at  present.     With  high  regard, 

Yours  very  truly, 

H.  W.  Grady. 

To  this  I  replied: 

Sunnyside,  Spalding  Co.,  Ga.,  August  22d,  1886. 
H.  W.  Grady,  Esq.,  Atlanta,  Ga. 

My  Dear  Sir  :  Yours  of  the  20th  is  received.  Need  I  assure  you 
of  my  sincere  thanks  for  your  interest  and  service  in  my  behalf.  I  am 
pleased  that  General  Gordon  has  been  so  kind  as  to  consider  my  claim 
with  the  same  generous  feeling  that  prompted  you.  The  complimentary 
manner  in  which  you  have  been  pleased  to  convey  to  me  this  news  is 
appreciated  with  that  warmth  of  feeling  which  can  be  experienced  only 
by  one  who  has  served  his  country  and  tried  to  do  his  duty.  Per- 
mit me  again  to  assure  you  of  my  gratitude,  and  with  sincere  regard 
remain, 

Yours  very  truly 

Jno.  McIntosh  Kell. 

The  Atlanta  correspondent  of  the  Macon  Telegraph  gives 
the  following  information  of  a  movement  in  this  line : 

The  News  (Griffin)  has  long  advocated  giving  some  appropriate 
recognition  by  the  State  of  the  past  distinguished  services  of  one  of  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  305 

most  noted  citizens  in  its  borders.  As  modest  as  he  is  brave,  Captain 
Kell  has  refused  to  seek  any  office,  and  it  is  all  the  more  reason  one 
should  be  given  him,  and  we  heartily  endorse  the  present  move  of  our 
distinguished  Representative,  Hon.  D.  J.  Bailey,  toward  such  an  end. 

Again  the  Nezvs  says : 

There  is  a  movement  on  foot  in  connection  with  this  office  which  will 
meet  with  warm  endorsement  throughout  the  State.  The  movement 
is  to  urge  Governor  Gordon  to  tender  the  appointment  of  Adjutant- 
General  to  Captain  John  Mcintosh  Kell,  of  Sunnyside.  I  do  not  know 
that  he  is  in  any  way  an  aspirant  for  this  office,  but  there  is  a  strong 
feeling  among  his  friends  that  he  should  get  it.  The  head  and  front 
of  the  movement  is  Hon.  David  J.  Bailey,  the  Representative  from 
Spalding,  the  "grand  old  Roman"  of  the  House. 

He  prepared  the  petition  to-day,  asking  Governor  Gordon  to  make 
this  appointment.  It  was  one  petition  that  all  seemed  to  sign  with  sin- 
cere pleasure.  Such  appointment  will  give  a  higher  honor  to  the  office 
and  be  a  happy  tribute  to  a  gallant  gentleman. 

In   November   I   received  this   letter  from   Governor 
Gordon : 

State  of  Georgia,  Executive  Department, 

Atlanta,  November  16th,  1886. 
Capt.  J.  McIntosh  Kell: 

My  Dear  Sir:  Your  friends  throughout  the  State  have  urged  your 
appointment  to  the  position  of  Adjutant-General.  The  office  is  not  at 
this  time  vacant,  but  the  present  able  and  efficient  incumbent,  Colonel 
John  A.  Stephens,  informs  me  that  failing  eyesight  will  make  it  neces- 
sary for  him  to  surrender  his  post  at  the  end  of  the  present  year.  It 
affords  me  great  pleasure  to  tender  that  position  to  you,  and  to  express 
the  hope  that  it  may  suit  your  views  to  enter  upon  the  discharge  of  its 
duties  on  the  1st  of  January  next.  I  would  be  pleased  to  receive  notice 
of  your  acceptance  at  an  early  day. 

Very  truly  yours, 

J.  B.  Gordon. 
To  this  I  replied: 

Sunnyside,  Ga.,  November  17th,  1886. 
To  His  Excellency  J.  B.  Gordon, 
Atlanta,  Ga. 
My  Dear  Sir:    Your  esteemed  favor  of  yesterday  is  received.     I 
am  extremely  gratified  for  the  compliment    paid    me    by    my    friends 

20 


806  RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE 

throughout  the  State  in  requesting  of  you  the  appointment  of  Adjutant- 
General  in  my  behalf.  I  regret  sincerely  the  affliction  "of  the  present 
able  and  efficient  incumbent,"  Colonel  John  A.  Stephens,  and  in  accept- 
ing the  appointment  to  fill  the  position  he  will  be  necessitated  to  sur- 
render at  the  end  of  the  present  year,  I  can  assure  you  that  my  earnest 
desire  will  be  to  sustain  and  advance  the  interest  of  the  military  under 
your  command,  and  all  other  duties  pertaining  to  the  office.  Thanking 
you  for  your  kindness  in  so  pleasantly  tendering  me  this  office,  I  am, 
with  high  regard, 

Very  truly  yours, 

Jno.  McIntosh  Kell. 

The  outcome  of  these  letters  and  the  deep  and  abiding 
interest  of  my  friends  has  brought  about  the  congenial 
work  of  the  later  years  of  my  life.  I  trust  I  have  not  dis- 
appointed them  in  the  fulfilment  of  my  duty  in  the  high 
position  they  tendered  me,  for  their  approbation  and 
kindly  feeling  is  very  dear  to  my  heart.  Among  my 
greatest  treasures  are  the  many  kind  and  loving  letters  of 
congratulation  received  upon  my  appointment  to  office. 
The  first  to  reach  me  was  the  following : 

U.  S.  Post  Office, 

Macon,  Ga.,  November  19th,  1886. 
Capt.  J.  McIntosh  Kell. 

Dear  Sir:  You  will  pardon  an  humble  individual  like  myself  for  ex- 
pressing his  great  gratification  at  your  appointment  to  the  position  of 
Adjutant-General  of  Georgia. 

I  care  not  how  many  worthy  and  graceful  acts  Governor  Gordon  may 
do,  he  can  perform  no  one  that  will  strike  the  heart  of  all  Georgians 
with  more  real  joy  than  the  one  of  your  appointment.  Accept  the  con- 
gratulations of  one  who  professes  to  be  your  friend  and  admirer. 

Thomas  Hardeman. 

Augusta,  Ga.,  November  19th,  1886. 
My  Dear  Captain  :     Permit  me  to  congratulate  you  and  the  Com- 
monwealth upon  your  selection  for,   and  acceptance  of,  the  office  of 
Adjutant-General  of  the  State  of  Georgia. 

Very  truly  yours, 

Charles  C.  Jones,  Jr. 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  A  NAVAL  LIFE  307 

There  is  little  more  for  me  to  tell  in  these  annals  of  my 
life.  Since  this  appointment,  for  more  than  eight  years 
past,  through  the  love  and  respect  of  my  fellow  Georgians 
and  the  courtesy  of  succeeding  Chief  Executives,  I  still 
hold  my  honorable  position.  I  have  reached  three-score 
years  and  ten  (the  allotted  life  of  man).  My  life  has  been 
long,  happy  and  eventful.  Of  course  it  has  been  check- 
ered with  the  griefs  and  sorrows  that  fall  to  the  lot  of  all, 
but  nearing  the  sunset  of  my  days,  beyond  which  are  the 
"hills  of  light,"  I  can  look  backward  into  the  past  of  holy 
memories  without  regret,  and  hopefully  into  the  future, 
my  lifeboat  gliding  on,  no  anchor  dragging,  Christ's  love 
at  helm,  and  God  aloft! 


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prepaid,  $1.25. 

Cupid  and  Creeds.  A  novel,  by  W.  J.  Newton.  In  this  de- 
lightful story  a  quartette  of  lovers  hold  the  attention,  and  will 
delight  those  who  like  a  good  old-fashioned  story,  as  well  as 
readers  of  other  tastes.  The  various  experiences  and  troubles 
of  these  lovers  make  such  varying  situations  that  the  book  is  of 
absorbing  interest  from  the  first  page  to  the  last. 
Decorated  cloth  binding ;  5  x  7%  inches.  Price,  $1.00. 

Brambleton  Fair.    A  comedy  in  three  acts,  by  W.  J.  Newton. 
Third  edition  includes  a  new  one-act  farce-comedy  entitled  A 
Double  Divorce,  by  the  same  author. 
Cloth ;  5x7% inches.  Price,  80 cents. 


PATRIOTIC  SONGS,  by  W.  J.  NEWTON. 

The  Columbian  Anthem.    Music  by  E.  Berlineb. 

This  anthem  was  first  sung  by  the  Daughters  of  the  American 
Revolution  at  the  National  Council,  February  22,  1897,  and  on 
Flag  Day  celebration  of  the  same  year  was  presented  with  the 
full  Chorus  and  Orchestra  of  the  Castle  Square  Opera  Company 
at  the  Lafayette  Square  Opera  House  in  Washington,  and  by  a 
number  of  Public  Schools  in  Washington  and  in  New  York. 

At  a  concert  given  by  Prof.  Fanciulli  with  the  full  Marine  Band 
at  the  White  House  Grounds  in  the  presence  of  President  and 
Mrs.  McKinley,  on  Saturday,  September  18,  1897,  the  Columbian 
Anthem  was  selected  as  the  opening  number. 

The  Baltimore  American,  commenting  on  this  concert  (composi- 
tions by  American  composers  having  been  exclusively  selected) 
under  date  of  September  19th,  1897,  said  :  "  Among  the  composi- 
tions rendered  was  the  Columbian  Anthem  by  E.  Berliner.  Con- 
sidering that  this  country  has  not  a  National  melody,  other  than 
those  borrowed  from  Europe,  the  Columbian  Anthem  has  a  good 
chance  to  be  some  day  selected  as  our  National  Melody." 

Songs  From  Brambleton  Fair.  Words  and  music,  in- 
cluding Love  Needs  No  Language;  Say  Yes,  My  Darling;  The 
Best  of  Friends  Must  Part ;  Wait  For  Me,  Dearest,  and  all  choruses. 

Price,  in  paper,  60  cents. 

Old  Glory.  The  Blake  School  Flag  Song,  music  byE.  A. 
Varela. 

Gloria  Old  Glory.  The  Brent  School  Flag  Song,  music  by 
F.  Gaisberg. 

The  Flag  of  Washington.  The  Abbot  School  Flag  Song, 
music  by  W.  J.  Newton. 

Songs  For  Sale  by  Music  Dealers  Only. 

THE  NEALE  COMPANY,  Publishers, 
431  Eleventh  Street,  WASHINGTON.  D.  C. 


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UNIVERSITY  OF  N  C  AT  CHAPEL  H  LL 


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